victorialynn2 Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 (edited) Seems like this has been discussed before perhaps? I purchased new tires for my 16’ car hauler a couple years ago. The brand is Carlisle. 2 of the 4 have gone flat. The first one within 400 miles of new and a second one today with lots of good tread still on them. I’d say they have under 15k miles (3 trips of 4400 miles each). Half of those miles are empty. I’ve hauled a Model A, 70 Bronco and the 55 Chevy with it. None particularly heavy. Is there a better tire I should consider? I’m interested in safety and willing to pay more for a good tire. I was told these were good and would do the job, but something is not working. Edited January 29, 2018 by victorialynn2 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 Why have they gone flat? Is there any Guarantee? If it is tire failure they should be replaced by the manufacturer. If it is rim leaks you could put in tubes. Trailer tires are heavy duty and will carry a lot of weight but may fail due to overheating if run for long periods over 60MPH especially in hot weather. Some trailer users prefer light truck tires for this reason. Especially Airstream owners who like to tow at 80MPH for long distances. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe in Canada Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 I have Goodyear and have had no problems and I wear them out with no blowouts or flats. Been to Texas many times on their hot asphalt never an issue. Headed for Mississippi in November and planning on getting a new set put on when I am down their. Hoping if one of the local fellows on tour can direct me to a good shop. I here guys talking about Sailun tires being better and more reasonable than Goodyear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victorialynn2 Posted January 29, 2018 Author Share Posted January 29, 2018 (edited) There is a guarantee but I ditched the first one by accident before I made it back to Texas. Also I doubt after a couple years there will be any warranty worth carting the bad tire home then back to Texas. I paid for tire warranty at America’s tire last time I replaced one but I tried to use fix a flat to make it out of the boonies so I doubt they will honor it. I don’t know why they are failing. I just had the bearings packed and the trailer inspected and went about 170 miles before it went flat. The first time I made it about 400 miles when they were newly purchased. Neither time was the weather hot. It was in the 60’s today and dry. Edited January 29, 2018 by victorialynn2 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victorialynn2 Posted January 29, 2018 Author Share Posted January 29, 2018 3 minutes ago, Joe in Canada said: I have Goodyear and have had no problems and I wear them out with no blowouts or flats. Been to Texas many times on their hot asphalt never an issue. Headed for Mississippi in November and planning on getting a new set put on when I am down their. Hoping if one of the local fellows on tour can direct me to a good shop. I here guys talking about Sailun tires being better and more reasonable than Goodyear. I hear Goodyear are not made anymore? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 (edited) Keep it under 60 MPH and inflated to 50# cold and they should last much longer. There was a excellent article posted here several months ago about newly available tires made in the USA with a higher speed rating. Here it is... https://corporate.goodyear.com/en-US/media/news/goodyear_launches_american_manufactured_trailer_tire.html Edited January 29, 2018 by Mark Shaw (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victorialynn2 Posted January 29, 2018 Author Share Posted January 29, 2018 4 minutes ago, Mark Shaw said: Keep it under 60 MPH and inflated to 50# cold and they should last much longer. There was a excellent article posted here several months ago about newly available tires made in the USA with a higher speed rating. I think I need a higher speed rated tire. My Tundra can read the Texas speed limit signs. I will look for that article. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike6024 Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 Goodyear Endurance Link - Endurance 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victorialynn2 Posted January 29, 2018 Author Share Posted January 29, 2018 I do not use a distribution hitch or sway bar. Would that help distribute weight on the tires better? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victorialynn2 Posted January 29, 2018 Author Share Posted January 29, 2018 (edited) 16 minutes ago, mike6024 said: Goodyear Endurance Link - Endurance That’s exactly where I am going tomorrow. Thank you! One more question, if this tire’s load rating is 2k per tire, is that per tire? I have 4 total on the car hauler. I assume I subtract the weight of the trailer and that gives me what I can haul? Edited January 29, 2018 by victorialynn2 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe_padavano Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 I have Carlisle tires on my trailer and have had no problems on over 15 years. I do wear them out, but no flats. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stude Light Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 Typically tires fail due to heat which is generated from all the flexing that occurs as it rolls and the patch of tread that contacts the ground moves around the circumference. Both the tread and sidewalls flex constantly and make heat. The sidewalls flex the most and generate most of the heat. I would recommend Load E rated tires which have an 80 psi inflation pressure. With the higher pressures you get stiffer sidewalls which flex less and make less heat. Generally the maximum tire weight capacity is increased with Load E vs the lower rated Load D (60psi) or even lower Load C rated tires. As far as brand....sometimes its just a crap shoot. It all comes down to quality control for both material and processing. In general, tires made in the US have a higher quality control process but that doesn't necessarily mean that they will all be "good" tires. Depends on the day and if the operator of the equipment is following the control practices, if there are checks in the system, etc. Sometimes there will be batches that are better than others. This is really common with off-shore manufacturers. Couple this with how people use their trailers: total load, unbalanced front/rear axles or side to side, not checking inflation pressures constantly, towing speed, ambient temps, tire age and you see the reason that everyone has a different story on experiences with tires. Made in the US, Load E and 7 year replacements will give you your best shot at trouble free driving. Sometimes the only way to find a US made Load E tire is to go to light truck tires (LT2xx/75 R1x) as Rusty mentions above, but even those fail at times (had one fail on my motorhome). Good luck. Scott 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Street Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 (edited) Very loaded question! First what is trailer capable of? The info on data plate is first step. Then on to tire capacities. Yes equalizer system is very important as how do you keep even distribution without it. I certainly don’t know how you can haul a 55 in a small 16 foot trailer long distance without equalizer equipment? All plays a part in tire life. Brand isn’t as important as the rest in my opinion Robert I am curious as to what the tongue weight was on your cross country trip with the 55 in that 16 foot trailer? Are Tundras using class III hitches Edited January 29, 2018 by Robert Street (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 (edited) victoialynn2, depends on why they went flat. Perhaps they picked up a nail or some other piece of debri. Not the tires fault. Of course, if it was run flat, or even low, for awhile before detected it could be damaged beyond repair. Not the tires fault. I drove semi trucks for 40 years. My own mostly. One thing we all learned, trailer tires are more prone to flats than the tow vehicle. The lead , your Tundra, kicks something up and the trailer finds it. Guessing here, probably seventy percent of flats were on the trailer. Only TWO on the steer axle. TWO. Having said that, I always bought the best my pocket book would allow at the time. Check the load rating. Check the speed rating. Might be surprised. I discovered some high end car tires have a better load and speed rating than some popular LT tires. Go figure. My .02 on the equalizer. Depends. Again. An equalizer CAN, and probably does , add weight to the trailer. It also stabilizes the connection between the trailer and tower.If the Tundra suspension is robust enough , may not be needed for weight. WILL be noticed in less swaying, bouncing, etc. You probably know this, but am compelled to say anyway. ALWAYS have positive weight on the hitch point. If allowed to become negative, the tail WILL wag the dog. Be safe. Ben Edited January 29, 2018 by Ben Bruce aka First Born (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Povertycove Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 Here in Florida, where the heat takes its toll on trailer tires, many of us just replace all four tires every year, even if they've only had a few hundred miles on them. The other thing some do is to go up a size in tire rims. The larger tires seem to last better. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
39BuickEight Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 I've used the Kenda 80 MPH rated tires on eBay (come already mounted on new steel wheels) on my campers and utility trailers for years. Always stored inside and pressure verified before any trips. I rotate my best replacement to the spare slot and sell the old wheels/tires for $20-$30 ea on craiglist. I come out about $100 total for 2 new ones after I sell the old. I swap them out every 5 years or so. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victorialynn2 Posted January 29, 2018 Author Share Posted January 29, 2018 (edited) 46 minutes ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said: victoialynn2, depends on why they went flat. Perhaps they picked up a nail or some other piece of debri. Not the tires fault. Of course, if it was run flat, or even low, for awhile before detected it could be damaged beyond repair. Not the tires fault. I drove semi trucks for 40 years. My own mostly. One thing we all learned, trailer tires are more prone to flats than the tow vehicle. The lead , your Tundra, kicks something up and the trailer finds it. Guessing here, probably seventy percent of flats were on the trailer. Only TWO on the steer axle. TWO. Having said that, I always bought the best my pocket book would allow at the time. Check the load rating. Check the speed rating. Might be surprised. I discovered some high end car tires have a better load and speed rating than some popular LT tires. Go figure. My .02 on the equalizer. Depends. Again. An equalizer CAN, and probably does , add weight to the trailer. It also stabilizes the connection between the trailer and tower.If the Tundra suspension is robust enough , may not be needed for weight. WILL be noticed in less swaying, bouncing, etc. You probably know this, but am compelled to say anyway. ALWAYS have positive weight on the hitch point. If allowed to become negative, the tail WILL wag the dog. Be safe. Ben I have a tow package with beefed up suspension on my TRD Pro. The hauler is all metal, heavy duty and I went through all the weight numbers with multiple people, including the place I have the trailer serviced and bought the tires. It should be up for the job. It handles perfect behind the Tundra. I can even go through a drive through with it. It is a 2001 RTS car hauler and these are not heavy cars. I have had it rewired and the bearings packed twice and new tires purchased in 6/15. I will dig up the specs on the trailer. I have NEVER had sway or bouncing issues even when I haul a 20 foot RV. This set up towes great except the tire issues. The first tire completely failed with no evidence of puncture and this one just deflated with no evidence of puncture? ?♀️ We see no evidence why it failed. I had just had the tires checked by the selling dealer when the bearings were done. Maybe they didn’t actually check the pressure even though they said they did? I am religious about maintenance on the truck and trailer. I even use synthetic oil in the truck and change it every 5 k. I always get both checked over before each trip. The one one thing may be speed, although why they sell tires in Texas that are rated 60 MPH, I don’t know. I typically go about 70 MPH when the limit allows. I don’t see any trailers go 60 MPH in states with 75-85 MPH limits that are not overloaded. Both failures happened immediately after having bearings packed and trailer inspected by the same shop and requested tire pressure checked. The first time they installed the tires new. Edited January 29, 2018 by victorialynn2 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikefit Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 Forest rivers stopped using the Carlisle tires on their new trailer for that reason they are just junk. Someone on here called they fender optional. Thanks for your time Victoria 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 You probably don't need an EQ, then. Just look for a quality tire. Maybe the same tires that are on the PU? Ben 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victorialynn2 Posted January 29, 2018 Author Share Posted January 29, 2018 (edited) The issue of heat has been mentioned several times. I don’t tow in the summer. Only when I hauled the Model A do I remember one day it was pretty warm going through New Mexico. I time my trips by mild weather mostly, particularly so I can sleep in the truck between 32-60 degrees at night and no snow, extreme rain, etc. Edited January 29, 2018 by victorialynn2 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victorialynn2 Posted January 29, 2018 Author Share Posted January 29, 2018 (edited) 7 minutes ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said: You probably don't need an EQ, then. Just look for a quality tire. Maybe the same tires that are on the PU? Ben I think I’m going to get the Goodyear’s mentioned above. Sounds like better speed rating and maybe just all around better tire. I bought the best the shop could get initially without a long wait. He got them from San Antonio so he should have had a good selection, although in retrospect I see a lot of complaints online about them. I think I got a bad batch or I need to check the pressure more often. I have a gauge in my truck. Dad had one in every glove box. I will start checking every morning. I can’t even change a tire by myself and I drive a lot of very rural highway. Safety and maintenance has always been a priority. Edited January 29, 2018 by victorialynn2 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victorialynn2 Posted January 29, 2018 Author Share Posted January 29, 2018 11 minutes ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said: You probably don't need an EQ, then. Just look for a quality tire. Maybe the same tires that are on the PU? Ben Haha. I am picturing the same size tire on the hauler. ? (I know that’s not what you mean.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victorialynn2 Posted January 29, 2018 Author Share Posted January 29, 2018 2 hours ago, joe_padavano said: I have Carlisle tires on my trailer and have had no problems on over 15 years. I do wear them out, but no flats. I bought mine in 6/15. When did you get your last set? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Street Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 Victoria just a comment after looking at the photos. Are the flats predominantly on the front axle of that trailer? Heat shouldnt be too big of an issue if the tires are at correct pressure and the load somewhat balanced correctly. I towed an open flatbed for years with no equalizer system but will never do it with the enclosed trailers. Do you know what the tongue weight and tire load range is with the set up in the last photo? I as well as allot of others recommend replacing trailer tires every 4 to 5 years so you should be good if everything is right but start this year with your tire fund. I also use a tire pressure monitoring system that reports wirelessly to the receiver on my truck dash. Sure is a relief on longer high speed trips to far national shows. Robert 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC38dls Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 VL2. I’ve hauled horses all over the country for years. (Daughter competed in 3 day eventing since she was 12). Three trucks and 4 trailers we had one flat. I found the most important thing on trailer tires is the. Number of plys. Get at least a 10 ply tire. Also check your rims when the tires are being replaced. If rust, stop and clean them up & repaint them. Check the alignment also. You may not have gone far enough to wear them out but misaligned also causes heat. That is hard on trailer tires. Nitrogen filled may also help as that attracts less moisture therefore less rot from within. Good luck on the ride home. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
intimeold Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 7 hours ago, victorialynn2 said: I think I need a higher speed rated tire. My Tundra can read the Texas speed limit signs. I will look for that article. I like your idea, We just came home from a motorcycle show /flea-market, loaded trailer with used parts. Speed limit is 70 mph some places. And I do have a Tundra also; so if it safe I go the speed limit. Anyhow, tires: I replace the trailer tires about every 2 years. Not because of the wear limit; but because of the sidewalls drying out. Usually see trailer tires blow out from whatever, maybe drying out. And I cover the trailer tires when parked in the sun at home for a long time. intimeold 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victorialynn2 Posted January 29, 2018 Author Share Posted January 29, 2018 27 minutes ago, Robert Street said: Victoria just a comment after looking at the photos. Are the flats predominantly on the front axle of that trailer? Heat shouldnt be too big of an issue if the tires are at correct pressure and the load somewhat balanced correctly. I towed an open flatbed for years with no equalizer system but will never do it with the enclosed trailers. Do you know what the tongue weight and tire load range is with the set up in the last photo? I as well as allot of others recommend replacing trailer tires every 4 to 5 years so you should be good if everything is right but start this year with your tire fund. I also use a tire pressure monitoring system that reports wirelessly to the receiver on my truck dash. Sure is a relief on longer high speed trips to far national shows. Robert Both fronts, different sides. 2150 load. Is that per axel, tire, ? I just noticed the last replacement is rated only 1820 but same brand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victorialynn2 Posted January 29, 2018 Author Share Posted January 29, 2018 36 minutes ago, SC38DLS said: VL2. I’ve hauled horses all over the country for years. (Daughter competed in 3 day eventing since she was 12). Three trucks and 4 trailers we had one flat. I found the most important thing on trailer tires is the. Number of plys. Get at least a 10 ply tire. Also check your rims when the tires are being replaced. If rust, stop and clean them up & repaint them. Check the alignment also. You may not have gone far enough to wear them out but misaligned also causes heat. That is hard on trailer tires. Nitrogen filled may also help as that attracts less moisture therefore less rot from within. Good luck on the ride home. Alignment of trailer? They just drive the truck over an alignment detector at the dealership when I had it lubed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 1 hour ago, victorialynn2 said: Haha. I am picturing the same size tire on the hauler. ? (I know that’s not what you mean.) Not necessarily same size, although would not hurt. Thinking same brand, speed and weight classification. Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC38dls Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 (edited) Trailer alignment. Not easy to do but fortunately if the trailer is well maintained they don’t go out of alignment often. If you bought it New it is most likely ok. If used check it out. This may sound nuts to some but it seems to work. Take a hose and on a flat driveway wet part of it down drive truck and trailer thru the wet part and far enough to see tracks on dry part. If tracking ok you see one set of tracks for two axel trailer. Truck tracks and trailer may be the same. If axel is not set correctly the tracks will not be the same or will at least look distorted. Not a full proof method but works. The axel is bolted to the springs or frame and thru age may move. They need to be perpendicular to the frame not off a little. With the horse trailer we drive on some ruff fields and often get stuck in farm fields used as parking lots at events. Axels get moved or twisted pulling a rig out of mud. Maintaining the trailers is an annual task. We even pull floor boards and clean rust/repaint frame rails. Horse pee and crap is powerful stuff. The wheel rust I was talking about is the inside of the wheel. Again not very common but worth looking for if they are old wheels. Check the tires for excessive heat each time you stop for gas. They may be a little hotter than the truck tires but should not burn to the touch. Dave S Edited January 29, 2018 by SC38DLS (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe_padavano Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 1 hour ago, victorialynn2 said: I bought mine in 6/15. When did you get your last set? Probably 2-3 years ago. My trailer uses the 14.5" "mobile home" tires on the centerless rims. They are load range F. The trailer is 10,000 lb gross. I pull this with my Chevy crewcab dually with no problems. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victorialynn2 Posted January 29, 2018 Author Share Posted January 29, 2018 (edited) The tires were inflated to 35 psi and should be 50 I believe? I asked them to check but they may not have. I’m getting 4 Goodyear Endurance tires. Load range D. @SC38DLS, do this pics help? Where can I bring it for an alignment Edited January 29, 2018 by victorialynn2 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 I pulled this from The Internet some time ago, & it clearly shows why passenger & light truck tires are not recommended for trailers. Trailer Tire requirements differ greatly from automotive tires. Automotive tires must maintain traction during all driving conditions: pulling, stopping, turning, or swerving. Because of this they must have more flexible sidewalls to maintain tread to road contact. Since trailers have no driving torque applied to their axles, the only time trailer tires must have traction is during the application of trailer brakes. Trailers with heavy loads, high vertical sideloads (like camper trailers), or trailers with inadequate tongue weight can be affected by trailer sway problems. Automotive bias or radial tires with their more flexible sidewalls can accentuate trailer sway problems, whereas the stiffer sidewalls of the ST (special trailer) bias ply tires help to control and reduce sway problems. For this reason it is not recommended that (P) Passenger or (LT) Light Truck tires be used on trailers. Best trailer control will be achieved with (ST) Special Trailer tires. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victorialynn2 Posted January 29, 2018 Author Share Posted January 29, 2018 1 minute ago, Mark Shaw said: I pulled this from The Internet some time ago, & it clearly shows why passenger & light truck tires are not recommended for trailers. Trailer Tire requirements differ greatly from automotive tires. Automotive tires must maintain traction during all driving conditions: pulling, stopping, turning, or swerving. Because of this they must have more flexible sidewalls to maintain tread to road contact. Since trailers have no driving torque applied to their axles, the only time trailer tires must have traction is during the application of trailer brakes. Trailers with heavy loads, high vertical sideloads (like camper trailers), or trailers with inadequate tongue weight can be affected by trailer sway problems. Automotive bias or radial tires with their more flexible sidewalls can accentuate trailer sway problems, whereas the stiffer sidewalls of the ST (special trailer) bias ply tires help to control and reduce sway problems. For this reason it is not recommended that (P) Passenger or (LT) Light Truck tires be used on trailers. Best trailer control will be achieved with (ST) Special Trailer tires. Have t had any sway issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
intimeold Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 (edited) 1 hour ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said: Not necessarily same size, although would not hurt. Thinking same brand, speed and weight classification. Ben Victoria, as you know I have a Tundra. looking at your loaded trailer and truck, may I suggest something. Looking at your pic,You have a lot of weight of the trailer on your truck, which is good; but not excessive weight on the tongue. The truck and trailer must work together. Consider leveling your truck trailer combo. It really helps the driving experience. I added these to my Tundra, and still load the tongue, http://timbren.com/ If you do make certain they are adjusted as per the directions. You will notice the difference. There are other systems such as air overloads, but the Timbrens are priced right. Will keep your rig level. OK to PM me if you have questions intimeold Edited January 29, 2018 by intimeold (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 I know photo angles are tricky but it appears your rig is riding with the back of the tow vehicle and front of the trailer low. The trailer must ride level with weight evenly distributed. Excess weight on the front tires could cause them to fail. From your description it sounds like the tires just went flat and you replaced them. No thrown belts, blowout, holes etc. This could just be bad luck. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 Intimeold had the same insight as me. Your rig should be set up level. Adjust the hitch as necessary and distribute load. You only need to do this once then set it up the same every time. It should not be necessary to install a weight distributing hitch in view of the light loads you haul but it couldn't hurt. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC38dls Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 (edited) VL2 - I agree with both of above comments, the load is wrong in the pic. Move the Jeep back a bit and lock it down. An easy way to see this is have someone back the jeep up until you see the TUNDRA front end close to level to where it is without the trailer on it. You want the trailer to have a downward force on the hitch but not so much that the front of the truck is light and may not stear properly. As far as where to find a place to align the axels I have no idea. We are in the heart of horse country so there are trailer repairs everywhere. The one time I had a problem I fixed it myself. I would worry more about the ply rating on your new tires than the aligment to be honest with you, Usually the more plys the better the tire will last and actually run cooler - my guess is more rubber to disburst the heat but I'm not a scientist to give expert advice. I.ve put 40 - 60,000 miles on trailer tires without having the trouble you have seen but I don't buy cheap tires and change them the first sign of sidewall cracking. The last thing we need when hauling 2 -1200 lb thoroughbred horses is a blown tire ripping a fender apart and making the critters get excited. You may also want to get a trailer tire ramp in case you have another flat - allows you to drive the trailer good tire up on to it and it lifts the other wheel with the flat high enought to change it. - fast and safe way to change a trailer tire - usually $25- 40 at most tack shops. Edited January 29, 2018 by SC38DLS (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 Victoria, that truck is too small to haul cars with safety . Yes, it can and will do it, but I would not allow any family member to ride in your truck towing that trailer with a car on it. I have known several people who died in car/trailer crashes. Any trailer hauling a car should have 16 inch wheels and NOT 15"s. A weight distributing hitch is a must for safety. The trailer should not be loaded more than 80 percent of its capacity. On the flat lands at lower speeds and lighter cars you may be able to get away with it for a while......but it WILL bite you hard in the long run. Now there will be a bunch of people chiming in with their opinions, but none of them will have hauled 250,000+ miles all over the US. I practice what I preach. Do yourself a favor and only use that rig for very short trips at low speeds when its dry and not windy. My best, Ed 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
real61ss Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 4 hours ago, Robert Street said: Very loaded question! First what is trailer capable of? The info on data plate is first step. Then on to tire capacities. Yes equalizer system is very important as how do you keep even distribution without it. I certainly don’t know how you can haul a 55 in a small 16 foot trailer long distance without equalizer equipment? All plays a part in tire life. Brand isn’t as important as the rest in my opinion Robert I am curious as to what the tongue weight was on your cross country trip with the 55 in that 16 foot trailer? Are Tundras using class III hitches Robert, I think she has open trailer, tongue weight isn't what you think, 4 or 5 feet of the car was probably hanging off the rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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