1937 Buick Model 48: RESTORATION HAS BEGUN! (Photo)

[Gary W]

Thursday June 1, 2017:  Finished the POR-15 painting of the wheels

 

Like I stated yesterday, the wheels bench cured overnight, and today I painted the "drop-center" section with a single coat of the POR-15 just to give it a nice finish and hopefully stop any future rust from developing in there.  Then I painted a second coat over the INNER WHEEL RIM that I painted yesterday.  I just want to clarify that I used the POR-15 only on the INNER WHEEL RIM....the inside of the wheel that covers the brake drums.  I'm really not to concerned about UV rays and fading in that area.  It's under the fenders and only the very outer rim will ever show.  I used the POR-15 in this area because in my experience, it really holds up to road pebbles and rocks and it is quite tough!  It also flows very nicely and the final product is nice and smooth.  I used it on my entire chassis, the oil pan, flywheel cover, differential cover and will be using it on the entire inside of the body before upholstery goes in.... areas that really won't be affected by UV rays.

 

The OUTSIDE of the wheels, the part the public will see, is going to be primed and sprayed "Jet-Black" so it will match the car's paint job.  If the weather holds, I'd like to prime tomorrow and get the wheels painted Saturday.

 

I clamped my jack handle in the vise to create a "helper" so I can spin the wheels as I spread the paint around the inside.

 

The POR-15 spreads on smooth and flows out real nice.

 

With the "drop-center" painted, I moved the rims back over to the bench and applied a second coat to the INNER rim surface.

 

Now the insides are done and I am very satisfied with the final result.

 

I think these should give me plenty of years of service going forward.  Now I only have to spray the OUTSIDE of the rims, and I figure with the rims laying flat hopefully I won't get any runs!

 

 

[ILIKECARS53]

I found when painting wheels or anything circular a lazy susan or something similiar that turns works great. Regarding blasting either in a cabinet or using a sand blasting, I agree you need plenty of air.  I have a 5 HP 2 stage 80 gal tank air comp and have to rest it when blasting.

[27donb]

1 hour ago, Jack Worstell said:

Isn't POR 15   UV  ( sunlight ) sensitive ?       And therefore a topcoat is almost necessary ?

To topcoat POR 15 it almost has to be done while it is still tacky....so I've read.

 

Jack Worstell    jlwmaster@aol.com

 

2 hours ago, Spinneyhill said:

Just a note that POR15 is a moisture cure paint. If you leave it in the sun (exposed to UV light) it will discolour towards white. The recommendations I have seen say to overcoat it at the "barely tacky" stage of curing.

 

I stopped using POR15.

 

I used it on an autobody repair following all directions, topcoated it while it was tacky as instructed, and it never cured.

 

I complete stripped and prepared the back of a truck bumper following all prep directions, and it pealed off in a sheet.

 

There have been forums where Volkswagen Beetle enthusiasts prepared and treated the floor pans with POR, and it lifted off in a sheet the shape of the floor pan.

 

For me, the performance did not match the price.  Rustoleum paint seems to stand up better.

[27donb]

9 hours ago, DonMicheletti said:

The sandblast pot isnt the only problem. Sandblasters are air hogs and You need a relly good one to keep the blaster going.

 

8 hours ago, 39BuickEight said:

True, we have a $400 upright compressor and we just make sure we don't run it constantly for too long, and from time to time check it to make sure its not getting too hot.  It's held up for years so far.  We have done the whole car (and countless other projects) with it and the 5 gal blaster.  We also have the blasting cabinet from HF.  Of course, depending on where you live, there are countless regulations regarding indoor and outdoor sandblasting.  Luckily we have none of those.

 

Although you are probably done with the heavy blasting, you might consider putting a fan next to the pump and motor, to keep air blowing on it to help keep it cool.  That is the method I have been using for over 30 years to keep a single stage aluminum pump craftsman 30 gallon compressor alive, and I have a small sandblast booth.  I usually sandblast for about 10-15 minutes at a time, and then work on another project for the same amount of time to let everything cool down.  Being air cooled, the compressor pump benefits from another fan blowing air on it to aid in cooling, even when it is not running. 

 

Never had an issue!

[Spinneyhill]

The POR15 reps. say the secret is a rough surface, i.e. rust! It won't stick to a smooth clean surface. If your surface is not rusty, they recommend a metal prep (probably an acid solution).

 

I have always found it good to use but whatever is left in the can is rock hard in short order, esp. if you paint straight from the can. I have not had the good fortune to live in a low humidity environment.

[Terry Wiegand]

I have the compressor that my Dad built up in the middle 1960's.  He used it for all of his Two-Cylinder John Deere Restorations.  He bought a new 80 gallon, horizontal tank.  It has a 5 horse motor and a rebuilt Curtiss, 2 stage pump.  He could maintain 125 lbs. at the blast nozzle all day long without a hitch.  The only problem was the light meter.  When he pulled the switch on, that meter went into overdrive.  He also ran a dryer right off the tank and the hose connected right onto the outlet.  He used foundry core sand that he got from Grede Foundry in Wichita.  This stuff worked marvelous on castings and heavy gauge sheet metal.  I have done my share of blasting in the past.  It is a pain to have something that won't keep up with what you want to do.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

Edited June 2, 2017 by Terry Wiegand
misspelled word (see edit history)

[Janousek]

Por15 and products like it are not good long term solutions.  I've seen rust accelerate under these moisture cure coatings.  Blast to white metal or chemical dip, and epoxy prime is really the only solution for a rust free foundation.  I know people don't like hearing that but I wouldn't use it on a mailbox.  I'll probably be lambasted for this but it's the truth.  

[smithbrother]

Nothing wrong with posting YOUR OPINION, that makes us all think/listen.

 

Have you had personal experience with this issue of Por15?

 

Thanks,

 

Dale in Indy

[Janousek]

I had a 90' Chevy truck back around 2000.  The chassis/floorboards under the carpet were rusting.  I wirebrushed the frame and removed the carpet and did the drivers floorboard with POR15.  The truck looked nice other than the rusty frame.   I brushed the floorboards and sprayed the bottom of the truck.  Two coats each.  I ran it through one winter and the frame was black with tons of brown bleed through of rust creeping.  This made me lift the carpet and it looked about the same.   I prepped according to the directions and learned it was a total scam.  My old way of spraying Rusfre brand undercoating from an undercoat gun looked better longer than the Por ever did.  

 

Barry over at Southern Polyurethanes did some salt spray testing with different brands and the moisture cure products didn't do very well.  The regular epoxy primer brushed over the rust way outperformed the POR stuff.  This was on the old website forum but was lost when they made a new website.  

 

It's total BS to tell someone you can paint over rust and it kills it.  When I was a kid I tried all of the rust coversion type products with poor results.  The stuff looked like milk, turned the rust black, and the rust came back within  6 months.  

 

Blast it, wash it, epoxy it.  Our 31' Buick had the frame blasted and coated with dp40 epoxy and then topcoated with Imron back in the early 80's and their isn't any rust under that car and the frame is still presentable.   Non heated storage for the first 28 years.  

 

Not to mention automotive paints don't adhere properly to POR type of products if you want to topcoat with something else.  

[Janousek]

BTW.....   I feel bad posting this stuff because Gary is busting his butt on a nice job.  

[Gary W]

Saturday Morning, June 3, 2017:  Prep and Prime the "Outer" Wheel Surface:

 

A trip to John's garage (...my FAVORITE place to be) early this morning to prep and prime the wheels.  

 

This morning I loaded up the Sequoia with the five wheels and some other stuff and drove to John's house.  John's garage is simple, cluttered, and tight, but it has that great "old school" feel to it and I love working with him there.  It always amazes me the great work he turns out of his garage.  Whenever I get a spare moment, I run over to help him with whatever he is doing.  I've learned so much from him.  Today I got my first lesson in painting.  So here goes!

 

Loaded up and heading over 

 

We moved John's cars out to make room and protect his cars from overspray.

 

John's compressor.  It's huge!  Holds 150 lbs all day long.  He has a regulator dialed down to 35?-ish for painting.

 

Here is the master regulator right on the compressor.  

 

And this is the spray gun I used.  First time ever with a professional kit in my hands!

 

While I sanded the rims progressively from 60 to 600, blew them off.......

 

Wiped them down with this stuff and then blew them off again to ensure cleanliness.......

 

John was at the bench mixing up the brew!

 

This is the primer we used thinned with lacquer thinner

 

Mixed up, capped.....

 

Tested the spray nozzle, adjusted the regulator and handed me the gun!  

 

So I handed him the camera! How nice to work with this equipment!  Everything covers so evenly, so smooth.  So much fun!

 

So this is how they look now.

 

Little closer up to see the detail.

 

All five are now primed.  We are going to let the primer completely cure, then go over it with a 300 grit paper, blow it off and apply the "single-stage" gloss black paint.

 

 

 

Quick little disclaimer:  Please understand that there are areas of this restoration that I am doing for the first time ever.  After restoring Model "A" and Model "T" Fords, this Buick is all new and has many, many different challenges.  I realize that everyone has their own  methods and materials that they like and have had good results.  I do rely HEAVILY on this forum and it's members to keep me on the rails, and I truly appreciate all the feedback I've been getting throughout this project.  My goal here was to hopefully show guys out there that as complicated as the project may seem at the beginning, you can handle it in small bites and you can do a lot of the work right at home and in your garages.  When I use a product, please know that I am not in any way endorsing it.  I only use what I've had good luck with in the past.  I would feel terrible if someone followed my advice and it turned out to be completely wrong, or the product was inferior.  These wheels...I'm following John's advice and using his materials and his methods to finish the "show" side.  If there are painters out there following this, please chime in if this method is the wrong way to do this job. I will gladly correct the thread so no one repeats my mistakes.  I hope the wheels hold up. I busted my *ss sanding them all down!  But if they don't, lesson learned.

 

Thanks for following along!  I really appreciate ALL the input, either way.  Everyone gets a chance to read and research and make their own decisions.  Hopefully we all can learn as the project unfolds.

 

Have a great weekend!

 

Gary

 

 

 

 

 

 

[DonMicheletti]

Having good equipment makes all the difference in the world.

The first car I restored was a '31 Buick sedan over 50 years ago.  The spray gun I then used was a POS, but I didnt know it. I did a lot of color sanding, but it eventually came out great.

Sometime later, a friend asked me to help him paint his car. I dreaded that because of the trouble I had painting before. However he borrowed a Binks 7 gun (like the one shown).

Holy cow - what a difference! It was a pleasure to use.

I saved up my money (they cost a fortune at the time) and bought one and used it for all my subsequent restorations. Expensive but worth every penny .

[1967 - 1997 Riviera]

Just two things:

 

1) When you do a final blow with air from the compresor, please be aware that there is usually a very small amount of oil that is in the system to help lubricate the reciprocating compressor during operation. And if it is carried along and deposited on your surface before any application of paint, then you could very well encounter an adhesion problem that will come back to haunt you later. I think your method of a final wipe down with Acetone, which you've been using often on other components, is very good insurance against this.

 

2) Considering the amount of commendable effort you've put into the wheel restoration, I just hope you checked them at the very beginning to make sure they were structurally sound and reusable. I would hate to see you put in all this work only to find, when completed, that they are out of round, won't seal at the bead, or on the verge of failing, and will do so right at the worst time.

[dibarlaw]

Just saying. When I painted cars back in the 1970s finish sanding after priming in preparation for top-coating was usually no more than a #400 grit paper. That was for a lacquer job. #600 before priming seems to be overkill. I never had sand scratch swelling even with #360. We only used #600 when blending an area or to remove some over-sprayed areas before buffing. Now I hear of people sanding to #1200 or more to get that deep, deep finish. To me life is too short...

Edited June 4, 2017 by dibarlaw (see edit history)

[Gary W]

Saturday June 3, 2017:  Top Coat the "Outside Rim" of the Wheels

 

 

I guess to all those who have painted cars, this is pretty mundane stuff.  For me, it's really cool!  The primer dried nicely. John told me if the primer "balls up" under the paper when sanding, it's not ready.  If it "powders nicely" then we're good.  It "powdered" so I very lightly sanded the primer, blew it off and wiped it with acetone using clean cloths.  John mixed the paint and hardener (?)  accelerator (?) thinner (?)  reducer (?)..... and had everything ready to go so quickly that I didn't get a chance to take any photos of the process.  Only a few minutes later the top coat was sprayed and drying.  I bought the wheels home and tonight fitted a trim ring onto the spare just to see how it looks.  Nice change in a couple of days!

 

Here's the paint and related stuff John mixed. 

 

This is about an hour after spraying the top coat.  They were tacked up enough for me to carefully take them home to finish drying.

 

Lined up drying on the floor.

 

I snapped a trim ring in the spare just to see how it looks!

 

I'm very happy with the four-day transition.  

 

I will allow a couple of days to dry, then mount the flaps, tubes and tires.  Hopefully they don't get too messed up when they get balanced.

 

 

[DonMicheletti]

It is amazing how much the beauty rings add to the looks. Adding striping takes yet another step farther.

[dibarlaw]

On ‎6‎/‎1‎/‎2017 at 2:18 PM, DonMicheletti said:

One of the most interesting aspect of the Olds video ia at the end.

I notice that even in'37, Olds had a modern type automatic choke instead of the Rube Goldberg choke on Buicks.

I think in designing the '38 choke there was a contest to see who could design a choke mechanism with the most parts and the winner went into ptoduction.

While it can work OK, the Buick choke really is complicated and a PITA to get adjusted correctly.

Don:

The Delco choke unit I have on my 37 is the same as Gary's since he also has the Marvel carb. Not the 90 degree flexible cable units used with the Stromberg. It had been functioning flawlessly for the 30 years I have owned the car. Recently it has not functioned at all so I will have to look into its adjustment and troubleshooting. I have the 1937 Delco products book with repair info on the unit.

Edited June 4, 2017 by dibarlaw (see edit history)

[LAS VEGAS DAVE]

I still have the original choke set up that came on our cars Stromberg carb and it still is working flawlessly.  I have heard so much bad press about these chokes that I'm amazed this one works at all. Possibly because the car has lived most of its life inside a heated building of one kind or another helped.

[DonMicheletti]

I know that the '37 and '38 chokes are different.  I have both the original chokes om my '38's working fine now. They can be made to work.

My point was that the '38 choke mechanism is an extremely complicated, difficult to adjust mechanism when compared to that shown on that Olds. The Olds seems to be similar to the later choke mechanisms that look just like a clock spring.

[Gary W]

Sunday June 4, 2017:  Reassembly of the Transmission Lid and Gear Shift Lever

 

.......  Also a discussion about gear oils

 

 

I got my first shipment from Paul's Chrome Plating in Pennsylvania.  The first few parts arrived, and the one I needed at this time is the gear shift lever.  I've heard they are supposed to be painted black.  Mine was actually wood grained!  But, I like a nice chrome gear shift lever and so I sent it out.  They did a beautiful job on it.  So I was able to rebuild the transmission lid with all those springs.  I filled the transmission up to the bottom of the fill hole with MEROPA 680, produced by Texaco.  I bought a 5-gallon pail of this stuff about 13 years ago. I had to purchase it directly from Texaco in this bulk.  It wasn't sold in quart bottles.  But I share it with all my Model "A" friends and it is getting low.  I use this gear oil in my Model "T" differential and in the Model "A" steering boxes, transmissions and differentials.  But..... Is it too heavy for the Buick??  When I bought the Buick in November, I drained the transmission oil (which ran out like old, black motor oil) and I used my MEROPA 680 in the transmission.  The lever was hard to move through this oil on those December mornings, but after a couple of miles, it was just fine.  Let me know what you think...

 

 

Mid-January, 2017:  Seedy view of the transmission.  My car did not have that inspection plate when I got it.

 

Draining out the Texaco MEROPA 680 Gear Oil that I put in there in early November, 2016.  So this stuff is only 9-weeks / 100 miles old.  See how it runs so heavy like molasses.

 

Transmission out and on the bench.  

 

Here's the springs and detents that install at the bottom of the gear shift lever into the transmission lid.  Notice the single spring that fits over the bottom of the lever is cracked into two pieces.

 

My first shipment from Paul's Chrome Shop arrived.

 

The contents of the box, but the part I needed right now is the gear shift lever.  But their workmanship is superior. 

 

Today on the bench, ready to install all the springs and get it back where it belongs.  John told me I shouldn't run the engine without the lever as the transmission may slip and could have troubles.

 

The guts for one side, all cleaned up and ready to be installed.

 

Be sure the spring fits into the hole provided for it.

 

Add the detent and the spring under it and one side is ready.  Repeat for the other side.

 

Clean all that old junk off the shifting plate

 

Give the underside of the transmission lid a good bath in thinner after scraping all the gunk off it.

 

Compressed air to be sure all the dirt is gone from all those crevices.

 

Here's the necessary parts to mount the gear shift lever back into position.  The spring in the middle is from Dave Tachney as my original one was broken

 

Placed that part after cleaning it all up

 

Then the shifter plate

 

I removed the filler plug from the side and poured in the MEROPA 680 Gear Oil.  You can see it is pretty thick.

 

This is the outside label of the 5-gallon pail

 

And Texaco's product code.

 

You can see where it filled to the bottom of the fill hole.  

 

First install the lower spring over the gear shift lever. 

 

It sill seat flush onto the shoulder of the lever.

 

Grease and hold those two "clamshell" halves with the detent buttons ready to slide down.  You can see the spring showing through the holes.

 

Squeeze the side buttons in while pushing the lever down into place and "snap" she seats right in.

 

I smeared some grease around the ball at the bottom and all the moving parts up top.  You'll notice I used the same gasket FOR NOW..I will remove the tower again to drop the body back onto the chassis.  New gasket for that.

 

Button her up and we are good to go. 

 

 

 

I like the chrome look.  Even if it's not 100% authentic.

 

Before and After

 

 

 

*****  Just for fun...... Video of the MEROPA 680 running out of the transmission when I drained it:

 

DSC_0819.MOV

 

Have a great night!

Gary

 

 

 

 

 

[dibarlaw]

Gary:

That MEROPA 680 is way too heavy for the 37 transmission! It is great in my 1925s that originally specified 600W Steam Cylinder oil. That would be the same for Model As. I don't have my 1937s lube chart in front of me but I believe 140W gear lube is to be used.

[Gary W]

Thank you Larry!  

I never gave it a second thought.  I just figured it works so well in the Fords......pour it in.  But those Model "A" Gearboxes are straight cut, non-synchro, double clutch boxes.  When that oil is in there, those gears do slow down and shift easily.  

 

 Too heavy for the differential also??

Edited June 5, 2017 by Gary W (see edit history)

[Janousek]

Gary,  140 wt is what it should have.   The concern is the lube being too thick to actually flow into the the shafts with bronze bushings and needle bearings on the countershaft.  That being said I've taken things apart with much heavier and I never saw any damage.    It is nice not having drips and I'd probably leave it alone since it's done.  

[Gary W]

Monday June 5, 2017: Automatic Choke Unit

 

A temporary improvisation to make it function...... at least for now

 

The subject of the 1937 Automatic Choke unit came up recently.  My choke unit does not work at all.  The arm only slightly rises to a "partial choke" position when the  engine vacuum pulls on it.  Even after letting the engine idle and warm up for 20 minutes, the arm never rises up to fully open the throttle plate.  This condition does not allow the engine to breathe properly and it runs a little rough.  As soon as I push the arm up, opening up the throttle plate she smooths right out.  

 

So....as a temporary fix for now, I created a "Helper Spring" to put a little upward pressure on the arm.  I used a carburetor spring from a Model "T" Ford.  I simply straightened it out and "unwound" it a couple turns.  By removing the arm from the automatic choke unit and installing the "helper spring" behind it,  the arm now sits at a "partial choke" position when it's at rest for startup, and as soon as the vacuum kicks in, she pulls full open.  I know it's just a temporary measure for now until I can find someone who either has a functioning unit or can rebuild mine or can teach me how to rebuild it so it operates properly.  When I bought the car, the previous owner simply tied the arm up so the throttle plate was full open all the time.

 

I bent the Model "T" spring so it "helps" push the arm up.  If you look closely, you'll see the end of the spring pokes through the hole just under the carburetor arm.

 

So at least for now, it pulls open and the engine likes it.  I have another unit on the bench that I want to try to restore properly, or send out for repair.

 

 

 

 

[pont35cpe]

Gary, looks like the Ford(Fix or repair daily)experience is helping with the Buick..  Tom

[DonMicheletti]

I admit to not knowing how the '37 choke mechanism works, but if it is simillar to the '38's in principle, it is probably just gummed up.

You could try taking it off, opening it up and cleaning it thoroughly with lacquer thinner. Soaking would be good.

The lacquer thinner worked better on my spare than a well known carburator cleaner did.

 

You have nothing to loose. They did work when they were new.

[Gary W]

I already took it all apart, soaked and cleaned everything.  But I used "Brakecleen"...I can try the lacquer thinner.  Somehow I think my thermostatic spring isn't working right??  Do they lose their temper or something after a while??  And is the vacuum pull supposed to open the throttle plate fully?  Or just partially until the heat acts on the spring?

[dibarlaw]

Gary:

For transmission and rear axle summer weight is SAE160.

[Gary W]

Thank you Larry!  So how does the viscosity of 1937 oils rated at SAE 160 - EP  compare to our SAE 160 W oils today?  Are they the same?  Just wondering.

Edited June 5, 2017 by Gary W (see edit history)

[DonMicheletti]

Since the "spring" is actually a bi-metallic coil, I'd think it wouldnt loose its properties, but I am not sure.

The condition of my vacuum pistons were good and everything worked very freely - that is important. 

In any event, the choke butterfly should be nearly closed when dead cold and fully open when warm to work correctly.

One of the problem areas (in my opinion) with the '38's is the silly flexible cable between the choke mechanism and butterfly. Lots of friction.

I see the '37's have a lever and rod to do the job - much better I'd think.

 

As far as cleaning goes, it sounds as if you have done all the right things

 

For what it is worth, your rate of progress is really impressive!

[Gary W]

Returning to the subject of Transmission and Differential Gear Oil:  Specifically the MEROPA 680 Gear Oil.....If someone out there could help me clarify:

 

My MEROPA 680 Gear oil is  ISO 680 ,  AGMA is  8 EP.

The Lube chart that Larry furnished above calls for  SAE - 160  EP Gear Oil in the Transmission and Differential. (Summer)

 

 

So I researched tonight and this is what I found:

 

This is the data for the MEROPA 680 Gear Oil.  You see it is AGMA Grade 8 EP /  ISO Grade 680.

 

 

 

 

 

This viscosity chart clearly equates ISO 680  =   AGMA 8  =  SAE 140 Gear Oil 

 

So the question.......  Can I still use the MEROPA 680 in the Buick Transmission and Differential?  I've been using it over 24 years in my Ford's Steering Box, Gear Box and Differential without any troubles at all.  Also, being the Buick calls for SAE 160, am I OK using it?  It seems like it's in the ballpark.

 

Thanks!

Gary

[MCHinson]

I think that it is "in the ballpark". Personally, I would want to know more about what additives are in it. If it is not labeled as "GL3" or "GL4", I would be a bit paranoid and avoid it. Basically, before I would use it, I would want to know if it is rated as "GL4" or "GL5". If it is rated as "GL4" it should be safe for yellow metals and should be OK. If it is rated as "GL5" you should not use it.

 

The Masterpro 140 GL4 from O'Reilly's is my personal preference. It is rated GL4, it is inexpensive, and in my experience, it works well.

[Daves1940Buick56S]

I read the Meropa data sheet and 2 things caught my eye: no stated GL rating and the comment that it smelled sulfurous. If it uses a lot of sulfur for the EP additives you probably don't want it in your trans as it might destroy the syncros with time. After all the work and hours you have put in you surely don't want that. For the rear it would probably be OK but since it appears to be at the heavy end of the SAE 140 band you might want something lighter for winter use, assuming you will drive it at all during the winter, some don't.

 

Cheers, Dave

[Gary W]

Thanks guys for all the information.  It's the synchro transmission that is the huge difference from what I'm used to.  I don't want to damage anything after all this work!

I'm heading out this morning to get ..Conventional (not synthetic), GL-4, 140W, Gear Oil.   Got it!

[FLYER15015]

Just to jump in here, I am currently using "Autozone 85-140 Gl-5"  in my differential, and Pennzoil "Synchromesh" GL-3 in my tranny.

The Pennzoil yellow bottle does not say what the viscosity is, but it has GM and Chrysler spec numbers listed, and is specifically recommended for syncro transmissions.

Had these in for 5+ years, and she shifts smooth with very little gear whine in first or reverse. Nothing in 2nd 0r 3rd.

This is in a '40 series 90.

 

Mike in Colorado

[MCHinson]

Flyer15015,

 

When I briefly used the Pennzoil Synchromesh I found that after coming to a stop, I had to hesitate a bit before I could shift into first gear or the gears would grind. This was not what I had experienced with the fluid that was in it originally. I switched to the Masterpro GL4 140 weight and I no longer have to wait to shift into first gear. As soon as the car comes to a stop, I can shift into first gear immediately with no problems and no noise. There is no whine at all in the transmission. The transmission is happy with this gear oil and I am happy with it. 

 

I have not yet changed the gear oil in the differential but from my research, I would be concerned about using GL5 in the differential. I think that there are some shims in the differential that can be harmed by the additives in GL5 gear oil. The same Masterpro GL4 140 is what I am going to use in the differential.

[Gary W]

OK... So this is what I ordered for both the transmission and for the differential:

 

 

It says suitable for brass and bronze.  My local AutoZone had nothing.

[Gary W]

Wednesday June 7, 2017:  A visit to the paint shop

 

I stopped by the paint shop today and was glad to see that the other vehicle is moved out and my Buick now is center stage.  Bob is working on the front firewall, windshield area and the roof area above the windshield first.  He likes to sand it, use a filler to 1. smooth out the lead joints where the body was originally put together and 2. fix any defects in the body.  After the fill is cured, it's all sanded again, and then sprayed with a build-up primer.  He said he likes to get the primer coat on before he starts a new section so the bare metal isn't exposed too long, and with visitors stopping by the shop, touching the body.....better to keep it primed.  A couple of photos from today's visit:

 

Here's a view of the lead that was used on the body during construction.  The scratch marks are where he showed me how easy it is to score lead with your fingernail.

 

This is the body filler he uses, with the metal glaze added in to aid in the adhesion to the metal.  (I think that's what he said the metal glaze is for)  But these two products are used in conjunction.

 

The Body filler applied, and cured, but not sanded smooth yet.

 

Here is the filler sanded out and ready for the "build-up" prime coat.

 

Here is a spot under the hood Bob repaired  so the two sides look the same.  I never noticed anything there until I went back into my photos!

 

There were a few "punched-in" dents in that area.  Never noticed it!

 

This is the self-etching primer that will be sprayed next once the entire body is sanded out.

 

These two products also go together to make the "build-up" primer that goes over the self-etch primer. (I THINK??)

Edited June 21, 2017 by Gary W (see edit history)

[Terry Wiegand]

Gary, I am following this discussion very closely.  I am going to be in the business of cleaning up the transmission and rear axle on my 1916 D-45.  The transmission has straight cut gears and no synchronizers whatsoever.  I do not think that I will have to tear the transmission completely down.  I will however flush the case very thoroughly before any new lubricant goes back in.  Since there are some very learned folks on here that are familiar with these early transmissions, what would be recommended for my application?  Gary, I certainly did not intend to hijack your discussion here.  I was thinking since my question was relevant to what you are doing here, maybe I could learn what to use in my situation.  Thanks for any help and/or advice.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas 

[Spinneyhill]

You CAN use GL-5 gear oil on yellow metal parts AS LONG AS it passes ASTM D130 "Standard Test Method for Corrosiveness to Copper from Petroleum Products by Copper Strip Test".

 

The results are given in the range a to e or so. You want an "a" result. The SDS should tell you this. Any oil with EP additives should have a result for this test. If you can't find the result, consider another oil.