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Stuck broken valve


Mpgp1999

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5 hours ago, Ron Lawson said:

If you can get a nut to fit why use JB I would have mig or stick welded it to the stem 

 

The mig welder will not stick to the valve. I even tried to pre heat it with mapp gas. Perhaps the carbon content of the metal is to blame. Another possibility is I have the worlds cheapest welder. I tried to weld the nut first but it wouldn’t stick to the stem.  I’m sure if I brazed it would stick but I’m out of gas. 

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19 hours ago, Mpgp1999 said:

I can bring it to work. At work we have milling machines and a lathe. But I’m not sure what I can do at a shop that I can’t do at home. 

I know you have tried everything but if you can borrow a pin puller (If it fits your stem diameter) it just might work. I use them to pull the alignment pins on an engine block.....

Cal Van LV-95400 Pin Puller.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 2/22/2023 at 4:21 AM, Machinist_Bill said:

I know you have tried everything but if you can borrow a pin puller (If it fits your stem diameter) it just might work. I use them to pull the alignment pins on an engine block.....

Cal Van LV-95400 Pin Puller.jpg

I purchased this tool, however the collets keep slipping or breaking. Is there something I’m doing wrong?

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Some progress. By using the tool I was able to get the valve to move partially. The tool (made in China) crumbled. I was able to get the valve to spin with the tool and a cheater bar. Unable to do so otherwise. 

B3C2BE02-E6D3-4274-9BFD-F75EA0AFD701.jpeg

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51 minutes ago, Mattml430 said:

I think all your efforts are to no avail. Is that a crack in the block of the edge of the valve seat. 

2873B111-5C5F-482A-97F6-A9A6203827EA.jpeg

Good eye but it is just buggered up from my efforts to remove the valve. A tool probably slipped and gouged the deck a little. Hopefully the head gasket will cover it.  

image.jpg

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7 hours ago, Mattml430 said:

I’m talking about this one here not near the broken valve. 

6A40284A-0F93-49F9-931A-7773BD231CF0.jpeg

It disappeared when I used a wire brush and brake clean. Any ideas on filling the deck.  

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On 3/16/2023 at 5:54 PM, nat said:

     Good job on getting that valve to move!

     Are you going to have the seat cut or just lap it in?

I have three stones 45 30 and 60. They are from an antique valve seat grinding kit. Which stone should I use first

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     45 till the seat is good.  30, (when necessary),  to leave the specified margin on the valve, 60 to narrow the seat if necessary.  Don't make the big end of 30 larger than the diameter of a replacement seat.

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  • 2 weeks later...
5 hours ago, Mpgp1999 said:

Any tips on removing rust in the water jacket. I was thinking of installing the head then using a hose flush it. 

First use something like Simple Green to get rid of the oils, then use one of the Rust Eaters.

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35 minutes ago, alsfarms said:

Man I got sweaty just reading this about this stuck valve saga!  I am certainly happy that the valve is out and you can proceed. I assume that you are going to do a full valve job on all the valves and seats?

Al

I plan on replacing the bad ones(3 total) with nos/ good used.  I plan to lap the other valves in place. 

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On 4/4/2023 at 4:47 PM, alsfarms said:

I have never heard of two part valves. I would go with convention if it were me.  This job, if done right should take your 1925 Dodge into the next generation.

Al

I’m keeping everything as is. 100% original. Down to the brakes. the only addition I plan it add is a rooftop. It is currently just a wire mesh. Is there a way to add a roof and remain in the hpof class. 

Edited by Mpgp1999 (see edit history)
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hmmm, I applaud your desire for original.  That is what I try for on my projects also. That said, having one valve that does not match the others tends to make me wonder if your 1925 engine may have had hands in there sometime in the past and not be absolutely original.  That is just a thought I have.

Al

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1 hour ago, Mpgp1999 said:

I plan on replacing the bad ones(3 total) with nos/ good used.  I plan to lap the other valves in place. 

Now is the time to open your "Mechanics Instruction Manual" to page 97 thru 136. Very explicit instructions on valves, guides, seats, spring tension, etc.

The book will answer all your questions.......

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I feel you’re going to struggle to do an in frame rebuild on that engine. It really needs to come out and have the valve seats machined correctly. There is way to much damage to that valve seat. Good luck with it though I hope you prove me wrong. 

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2 hours ago, alsfarms said:

hmmm, I applaud your desire for original.  That is what I try for on my projects also. That said, having one valve that does not match the others tends to make me wonder if your 1925 engine may have had hands in there sometime in the past and not be absolutely original.  That is just a thought I have.

Al

The valve that I have that is dissimilar is a nos. All valves preciously installed are the same. It has an oem head gasket. 

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I am glads that's not my engine With all of the metal swarf in and on it The only way to clean it is to strip it and start from scratch People on these forums give advice for a reason They have had and know these old cars like the backs of their hands but mate its your choice  Happy Easter

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On 4/6/2023 at 5:55 AM, Ron Lawson said:

I am glads that's not my engine With all of the metal swarf in and on it The only way to clean it is to strip it and start from scratch People on these forums give advice for a reason They have had and know these old cars like the backs of their hands but mate its your choice  Happy Easter

I plan to clean everything as well as I can. I try to only use tools and methods that are period correct. I.e. original tools, no rtv and no Phillips.
 

I milled the head at home. I used sandpaper taped to glass and I shaved the head. I used dykem and sanded until there was no blue. The head was fairly flat to begin with. 

Edited by Mpgp1999 (see edit history)
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