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Everything posted by alsfarms

  1. Hello Mike, Did you and Joe get all the engineering issues resolved? 🙂 The internet is, in fact, a good medium to let all us crazies to network with each other quickly. I forced myself to join the modern world and use this internet to a much better extent. I do remember how slow it was to post a "snail mail" letter ask questions, make comments. Then wait for a couple of weeks only to do the same process again and again. SLOW is the word! I used to keep a log book of who I had letters out to and who I expected letters from so I didn't double up after a few months. Sometime, in the future, I would like to come to England and search out my, and my wife's, ancestral homeland. (I also have friends and relatives to visit). What is your latest development on your project. While my Locomobile is getting the fuel delivery system designed and sorted out, I am also looking into getting new main leaves build for all four of my springs. These are actually new built springs, but the builder, 10 years ago, didn't do a good job forming the eyes. They are just not going to work! The rest of the spring stack will be beautiful, tapered and rounded just as they should be. I will follow up with pictures. Have a good day.... and thanks for your response... Al
  2. This picture shows the female thread that I will be drilling out, then inserting a 1/2" female Fine SAE threaded insert bushing, (homemade) and then soldering it into place. I will then have the correct "Tee" fitting, with all the correct threads. I did not want a big "dog knot" of fittings to adapt to what I needed, which was the other option, (unacceptable). If anyone has a brighter idea, speak up. Al
  3. This picture will show the "Tee" fitting, set in place, as I need it to properly fit.
  4. While going about the business of putting together an order list of fittings and small things needed to plumb in the fuel delivery system, I have encountered an issue with obsolete fittings. The attached images will let you see what I am dealing with. The back side of the Locomobile script air gauge has a 1/2" fine SAE male thread. I need to connect with a "Tee" fitting with flare fittings to allow fitment into the tubing system. The problem is I can't locate a "Tee" fitting with the correct female 1/2" Fine SAE thread. This image shows the back of the gauge with the "Tee" fitting, male thread exposed.
  5. Here is another piece that will be placed in the fuel pressure system. These attached images show two sides of a 1/8" pipe thread shut-off valve. This may be a modern piece but it has the flavor of a style that would be appropriate for a 1909 car. This shut-off valve will be in line to isolate the engine from the pressure system, when using the hand pump to build the needed 2 PSI in the tank to start the car initially. Once running, the handle side of the valve, seen from the drivers eat and located on the dash board, can then be opened allowing engine compression pressure into the pressure system to maintain the 2 PSI requirement in the fuel delivery system. The handle side will be visible and operated from the drivers seat. The back side of the valve is what will be visible on the engine side fire wall. One note, I will design and have a custom brass handle cast to replace the die cast handle shown in the image. The brass handle will be larger and be styled after a more correct vintage handle I have. This shut-off valve is just one more piece of the pressure fuel system puzzle. Al
  6. Hello Joe, Well have a good time and say hello to Mike for the rest of us here in the USA. Al
  7. Hello And thanks for the pictures and measurements. I will compare your door opening with my touring car and see if they are the same. My cut down sidescreen project came with a running engine and front half of the frame with the factory fuel tank still in place under the seat. That was my first hint that I actually have a screenside not a passenger car. I also have the cowl which was cut in the middle of the door opening. I have enough spare frame pieces and a rear end to build the chassis back to stock. I think I may have a spare windshield assembly and doors. I am weak on front fenders, cab quarter panels and back panel. I do have the hinged back rest brackets and the back panel of the cab. My touring doors appear to be the same as what would fit your screenside door opening at 20". I was hoping that a touring center section would be wide enough to modify as is. That is not the case. I would need to locate two center sections to get enough body skin material in order to build the proper quarter panels. I can see now that knowing the out to out measurement, of the body at the back corners would help me have the overall rear body width. Jan could you measure across the back of your body? Looking for 1923 front fenders, quarter panels and cab back panel, (or I will be building them). Al
  8. Here is another piece of the puzzle as I put together a substantial fuel delivery system. This attached piece is an all brass gasoline sediment receiver. Like the other items shown here, I will be cleaning and verify proper working order before I install. This particular brass sediment bowl has been Nickel plated. That will be removed and the brass polished. Has anyone seen another sediment bowl of this design? The number B 2050 is cast into this piece on the horizontal inlet. Al
  9. Thanks for the McMaster Carr reference. They have a huge inventory of various parts for sure. None of what I see will work for my application. Al
  10. The next piece of the pressurized fuel system for the Locomobile is a Gray-Hawley pressure regulating valve. The attached pictures show this unit and shows how to plumb it into the fuel system. It allows for a source of compressed air to be pulled from an engine cylinder then reduced to the working pressure of 2 PSI that will be routed to the fuel tank. This unit also has provision for a cooling circuit that pulls cooling water from the radiator system. The third option on this unit is to allow for a charge of priming fuel to be made available to the cylinder for starting. By cooling down the compressed cylinder air it is safe to send the 2 PSI air to the tank to force fuel to the carburetor. This is a very interesting piece of early engineering to accomplish getting fuel to the carburetor with really no moving parts other that the reciprocating motion of a cylinder. Al
  11. Hello Mike, The wheels sure look nice and I bet it is a nice feeling to be to the point of rolling your frame around! Have you had any of you past wheel projects powder coated? I had a set of 30 x 3.5 Houk Model T wire wheels powder coated. They turned out very nice but were still a handful to mount the tires. The thing I like, about powder coating wheels, is the fact that they are a bit more tolerant to "fighting" the tires on with out damaging the paint! Will you be doing your own tube forming for the exhaust system? I see nothing wrong, at all, with your wife nudging you towards blue. It would be boring if we had all our cars painted the same color. One of my favorite colors is a nice deep rich blue, oh yeah. Keep up the good work/ Al
  12. Next in order to start a car, that does not have a working gravity system do deliver the fuel to the carburetor, is the hand pump. The hand pump should only be used to build the initial pressure, at the gasoline tank, and used to get the car started. After that point the rest of the fueling system should take over and provide the needed 2 PSI to keep the fuel under pressure and moving toward the carburetor. This is the hand pump, all brass. I am currently trying to decide where to locate and mount the pump for the best appearance and convenience. Any ideas from those of you that are using a hand pump? Al
  13. I am curious, as I have never been around a Hudson Super 6. What is the CID of the engine, what type of mechanical redo was completed? Are the wheels Hudson or are they Buffalo refitted originally? Is the body the virgin piece? How about a better shot of the cockpit. I do certainly admire and enjoy this type of car but I was not quick enough to become a Doctor or Lawyer or inherit a thriving business where I could afford this quality of car. Good luck with the sale. Al
  14. Next in line with the manual hand pump to build pressure is the dash pressure gauge, This gauge allows the driver to verify that the fuel pressure system has enough pressure (but not to much) in order to push fuel up to the carburetor. The pressure is generally set at 2 PSI. Al
  15. Hello Phil, Thanks for the heads up on work done by Rich Eagle. He is a craftsman. I could sure ask him a few questions about his process not only on the handles but also on the Model T Brass radiator side he built. Al
  16. John, John F. does not have a real good solution for my project as the Locomobile is of a larger CID than what Zenith builds a carburetor for currently. Back to the drawing board for a Carburetor resolution. I will post a few pictures of where I have been and what I now currently plan to rebuild for use on the 300 CID Locomobile engine. First, is the Original Locomobile Carburetor, (all brass). Second, is an early all cast iron Carter BB-1 ( a bit undersized). Third, is an older Zenith 63AW-11, (NOS) proper CID sized but physically to large to fit into my space available. Fourth, is the latest generation and larger Carter BB-1 289-SD and proper sized for the 300 CID Locomobile. This carburetor number four is my current choice to spend time on to make my engine perform as good as possible. Later it is my intent to refurbish the original Locomobile carburetor and make it a runner also. Al
  17. Hello John, Thanks for the reference to John Fitzpatrick. Is is very knowledgeable about the replacement Zenith carbs. He an I are in a discussion about his carburetor alternative. My Locomobile engine is just a bit larger than what he suggests the Zenith carb. is designed for. It should still be a good choice as the "T" head is a low RPM engine especially when comparing against other engines. I will make other updates here if something comes of this carburetor talk. Al
  18. Hello Jan, I am going to deviate from the subject of 1923 Dodge Screenside and comment about your having a nice collection of veteran cars and then a VW Rabbit. Is the Rabbit a diesel? They are certainly unique for something modern. I have a friend that ran the wheels off two of these Rabbits. He used them simply as a commuter car as he lived 60 miles from work one way. Now back to the subject of Dodge screenside measurements and pictures. I am still in the build mode for my Screenside project and am lacking the quarter panels and back panel for my truck. I do have the front 1/2 of an original 1923 Screenside and have enough parts to rebuild the back 1/2 of the chassis. I have extra touring doors and the "C" sides of the cab, just not cab lower quarter panels and the back of the cab. I don't have a pick-up box and may just build mine as a flat bed, unless I run across a good bed at a price I can afford. Al
  19. Here is another acquisition for the Locomobile. This is the hand pump used to build pressure in the tank if that is the system to overcome the issue of gravity fed cars. I think I have located the pieces needed in order to plumb this pump into the system. I did have to locate a BSPP 1/2" fitting to go into the bottom of the pump. I will then drill and tap for a 1/4" MNPT street elbow to head towards other air system parts, (and finally the tank). I will post other pictures shortly. Al
  20. If I can get down the road to my farm, where the DeSoto stuff is stored, I will try to get a couple of pictures and post. We are still having snow, mud and cold here in the mountain west. It appears that the DeSoto, Chrysler and Dodge all have side trim but I am guessing the trim profile would be different as well as the fit to the body. Am I correct in my thinking that Plymouth did not have side trim? I think that we all have our own tastes and preferences, but after looking at the above posted pictures, I think I probably like the Dodge or DeSoto the best. Al
  21. Hello, I have heard so much about the similarities and differences between the Sidescreen and touring cars. Could you measure your screenside door and I will compare with my 1923 Dodge touring front doors. Could you also take a picture of the quarter panel behind the door? Al
  22. With all the chat about the differences of the Dodge roadsters found on this forum. I thought to ask for some specific information about the sidescreen style. I had the thought that the front of the sidescreen was based on a touring cowl and doors. Is that a correct assumption? Al
  23. How does the DeSoto SS side trim differ from Dodge and Chrysler of the same vintage? Does someone have a picture of the different profiles of side trim. I need the side trim for a 1937 DeSoto Coupe and have a set of coupe trim that I think is Chrysler or Dodge. I need help to ID what I have. Al
  24. I am looking for a 1/4" x 1/4" glass bowl sediment strainer, with brass housing, for a fuel system. Does anyone have one of these laying around that is spare? Al