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alsfarms

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Everything posted by alsfarms

  1. Hello Larry, I assume that you are after. Firestone rim parts? Al
  2. Hello Mike, I do not have wheels, but I may have a set of Firestone rims sized for a 36x 6 tire. Al
  3. I am looking for a set of 6 flat bottom 25" Firestone two ring rims. I think these are called demountable but not detachable. What have you got? Al
  4. Hello Mike, Do you need desire wood wheels or cast wheels. Pneumatic or hard rubber rims? Al
  5. Hello John, Is the clutch you are looking for a typical Helleshaw design? The same as Stutz and several others makes used? If the answer is "yes", I can help you out. Al
  6. Yes.....😁 "Outstanding" in the hot summer sun to get this assembly apart! I am winning so far! Al
  7. Side note... It is just to hot to work in my shop with no AC this time of year so I am outside!
  8. Last for today, I lightly applied some heat to the attaching pins on the spark and throttle levers. A bit of heat for a couple of days and those pins should tap right out. More on that in a couple of days. I am hoping to have the steering wheel off and ready to send out for a new rim to be installed soon. ( And other pieces ready to go to the foundry for duplication ). Al
  9. With this good luck, I decided to dig deeper and see if the quadrant arm retaining screw would also come out with a bit of persuasion from the heat wrench.....yes it did.
  10. Out here in the west, it has been hot and dry! Not comfortable at all. I have been soaking the screws, pins and moving parts on the top of the Locomobile steering gear quadrant. Today, after a couple of weeks soaking, I wheeled the heat wrench (torch) to a convenient place and applied some gentle heat a couple of times. Next came the best and correct sized flat blade screw driver I could find. The slots on the screw are really deteriorated by rust. I wanted very little fight. Well with just a bit a wiggling and gentle persuasion, out came the screws and off came the serrated control bar for the spark and throttle levers. It is certainly nice to get these screws out the easy way. Here are a few pictures. Al
  11. Walt, I can hardly wait to see the fruits of your labors on this Locomobile project. Al
  12. I wish the steering gear and the trans were a pair, but they are not. The steering gear spent years in a 1905 Thomas. (The determination is that the steering gear is not correct for a Thomas). Al
  13. Yes, your comparison of a Pierce-Arrow Model 36 and the Locomobile Model 90 are very comparable. The 48 Locomobile and 48 Piere-Arrow are head to head competitors. During the early 1920's Pierce-Arrow moved away from the "48" platform while Locomobile hung on. Any other observations Al
  14. If you notice the mounting lug on the top of the steering box that would be used to mount the support bracket for the gearing to convert the motion of the spark and throttle levers from parallel to perpendicular. It is my thought that this steering gear may be 1912-13 but likely earlier as right hand steering was really out of vouge by and during the early teens. I wish I had a wealth of early automobile literature to check out but I don't. Al
  15. Dave, I had assumed that with the inline shift pattern the shown transmission must be progressive. The picture you showed how the gate works.... what an improvement! Do you know if there is anyway to determine, from the outside, if the forth gear is overdriven or direct? Al
  16. Hey Ed, Your White was made for dating. It gets the shift lever out of the way of your dates knees when in roadgear. How lucky are you. When I take the 5 speed for a spin with my wife she complains that I keep banging her knees! Al
  17. After completing a study about the Model 90 Locomobile and the Model 33-36 Pierce-Arrow, I feel that they were in direct competition. Does anyone have direct experience with both of these automobiles? Al
  18. Hello James, Here is a picture of the nice Locomobile radiator cap pattern I have. This would be used to cast the "Bakelite" portion of the cap then glue in the brass threaded portion that screws onto the radiator. Could you attach a picture of what you have? Is it possible to remove the brass portion from the radiator cap you described and remake the brass portion to fit your radiator properly? Regards, Al
  19. Like all aspects of antique automobile restoration.....it is critical to not damage things during disassembly. I am going to try to remove the spark, throttle and quadrant arms from the stationary tube but also the movable tubes. Once again..... carefully! Al
  20. Hello James, Do you have a good image of the correct radiator cap for your "new" 1925 Locomobile 48? I also will be needing a radiator cap for my "new" unrestored 1925 Locomobile 48. I do have a good aluminum pattern for a Locomobile script radiator cap that has provision for a motometer. Our caps should be bakelite over a brass threaded cap. My pattern is for the bakelite portion of the cap. Maybe we can work together on this project. Al
  21. I will be in the process of duplicating Locomobile Model L steering quadrant pieces. I believe they are the same for most of the other models also. If you may be in need, contact me shortly. I will attach a picture for your reference. Al
  22. Here is the latest adventure on the restoration of the Model L. I decided to tune up the steering column with a restored steering wheel, new brass tube and whatever else is needed before fitment in my chassis and body. I also will be loaning out the quadrant pieces for duplication to help along the restoration of another Model L. Here are a few pictures of my assembly. I have it soaking in penetrating oil for a couple of weeks before I attempt to drive out the retaining pins and screws to get the quadrant assembly off before the steering wheel goes out for repair. Al
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