Mpgp1999 Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 (edited) Hello I am trying to get this 25 sedan running. It appears to be all original. I have a bent and broken valve. The motor became stuck on the valve. I don’t want to damage the camshaft. Any suggestions to remove it? Edited January 25 by Mpgp1999 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minibago Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 Remove the tappet covers Remove the offending valve retaining pin, cup and spring. Cut the valve stem at the base of the guide. Remove the cam follower and plug the hole in the block. Try to (Carefully) prise up the remaining valve part. Perhaps using two screwdrivers. A piece of flat aluminium plate under each screwdriver might act as a cushion on the valve seat but you may find you need to replace the valve guide and recut the seat. If it will only come up a little way then cut the head off and drive it down Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpgp1999 Posted January 25 Author Share Posted January 25 (edited) I tried the screwdriver method. Even tried a pry bar. No luck. I will try cutting the stem. Edited January 25 by Mpgp1999 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minibago Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 Hopefully the valve is bent below the guide and cutting the lower portion of the shaft will do the trick. I take it you have already removed the spring and cup? If the cam shaft is jammed on and the cam follower is hard up against the valve then perhaps try to rotate the engine backwards a little to ease any pressure. Back off the tappet adjustment to allow for clearance to remove the cam follower and spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nat Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 It seems unlikely that the stem would bend below the guide. I would soak it down with 50/50 acetone/ATF and give the valve head a good jolting with a brass or hardwood drift and, (without brutal force), attempt to raise it with the camshaft. Jolt the valve while there's some upward force from the cam. Work it back and forth. Add a shim between the valve stem and lifter to raise it further. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpgp1999 Posted Friday at 11:42 PM Author Share Posted Friday at 11:42 PM I started out using a piece of wood, but I slowly started using more and more force until I made it worse. As far as rotating the engine backwards, do you think I could just jack up a wheel and turn it backwards in gear? The motor only needs to spin backwards a quarter of an inch just enough to take the pressure off the camshaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nat Posted Saturday at 12:08 AM Share Posted Saturday at 12:08 AM Sure, with a rear wheel off the ground and transmission in high gear you can easily turn the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minibago Posted Saturday at 06:06 AM Share Posted Saturday at 06:06 AM Spring steel 1/2 mm thick is available in small sheets on ebay. I bought some and I thought with judicious use of a grinding wheel I should be able to fabricate some. I just need to get a round tuit. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minibago Posted Saturday at 06:07 AM Share Posted Saturday at 06:07 AM My apologies wrong thread 😱 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpgp1999 Posted Monday at 11:28 PM Author Share Posted Monday at 11:28 PM I was able to remove the valve retaining pin. I also moved the motor back so pressure is taken off the camshaft. I tried hammering it in to break the rust free but that did not work. Now it’s almost flush. I will need two original valves. I accidentally hit another valve and it is bent. On the valve it says DB and has three holes on top for lapping. I don’t want to drill it out. With the valve in the way I can not remove the spring. Prying does not work it only bends the stem. I have been spraying atf and acetone daily Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cutdown Posted yesterday at 01:28 AM Share Posted yesterday at 01:28 AM Hmmm. Time for an expert. You could try soaking it in the best penetrating fluid ever made. Its probably not obtainable or maybe never invented yet. Next, you could try oxy acetylene, and heat the shit out of it. Might work. See if you can fit the spring again in order to un adjust the cam follower adjuster. Thus may allow you to remove the camshaft, then drop the cam follower down [ after you have removed the burrs at its top edge ]. This will save you from ruining the camshaft. If all else fails, remove the engine and give it to someone who can machine it out for you on their industrial drill press. We once had a jap car in our workshop were the cylinder head had corroded onto the cylinder head studs. Even chain-blocking the cylinder head up in the air for a few days with the cars front wheels off the ground, we could not budge it. We threw that engine away and fitted a replacement. You have a problem there mate. Best of luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted yesterday at 01:39 AM Share Posted yesterday at 01:39 AM Use an induction heater to get the stem red hot. It will release. Are the guides bronze or cast iron? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nat Posted yesterday at 02:09 AM Share Posted yesterday at 02:09 AM Have you screwed the valve adjustment all the way in and put the cam at zero lift for that valve? If, (what's left of), the valve is seated, driving it downward will do no good. That valve is about as crusty as they get. It looks as though the engine was running on three cylinders at the end of it's last gasp It's safe to assume that the seat is toast and that in the usual expanding project syndrome you will end up replacing all the exhaust valves at the least. A coupling nut such as this https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-2-Count-0-375-in-Zinc-Plated-Standard-SAE-Regular-Nut/3013470?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-hdw-_-ggl-_-LIA_HDW_126_Fastening-_-3013470-_-local-_-0-_-0&ds_rl=1286981&gclid=Cj0KCQiA8t2eBhDeARIsAAVEga0o2tuX3uMY0yidWJxPSrjjNmfkTXz5eU0JywTKRadRYyr0MlVf6jQaAo6kEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds could be welded to the head of the valve. Place a socket wrench or pipe, (with a large enough I.D. for the valve to pass though), over the valve, and use a threaded rod or bolt to draw the valve into the tube. A socket wrench will have a small enough hole in it that an ordinary flat washer or two will suffice. if you use a pipe or tube you will need some sort of washer that's no less than 1/4" thick. Hardware store threaded rod is made of cheese and not up to the task. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nat Posted yesterday at 02:22 AM Share Posted yesterday at 02:22 AM https://www.ebay.com/itm/265221869777 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Gregush Posted yesterday at 02:50 AM Share Posted yesterday at 02:50 AM Myers http://myersearlydodge.com/ ROMAR https://romardb.com/ sell new valves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpgp1999 Posted 23 hours ago Author Share Posted 23 hours ago No dice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpgp1999 Posted 22 hours ago Author Share Posted 22 hours ago This valve is quite stuck. Should I cut it then punch it through? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nat Posted 16 hours ago Share Posted 16 hours ago Whatever works. The guide may go with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DB26 Posted 10 hours ago Share Posted 10 hours ago Is this the donor car you’re using to repair the wrecked DB? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpgp1999 Posted 10 hours ago Author Share Posted 10 hours ago 29 minutes ago, DB26 said: Is this the donor car you’re using to repair the wrecked DB? That was the original intent but this car is very original. I’m going to drive it as is until the other one is up and running. I decided that I’m going to do an off frame restoration on the wrecked one and have this one as an original runner. I got the motor to run on one cylinder, but three valves were stuck open and now one valve is broken and very stuck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattml430 Posted 10 hours ago Share Posted 10 hours ago I can’t see that engine running anytime soon the water galleries look to be completely clogged. Remove the exhaust manifold so you get good access to it. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpgp1999 Posted 9 hours ago Author Share Posted 9 hours ago Any ideas on how to remove the rust from a water jacket? I was thinking about filling it with water and flushing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cutdown Posted 8 hours ago Share Posted 8 hours ago That propane or butane flame is not hot enough. That's why I suggested oxy acetylene. Best of luck. You may have to dig the crud out of the water jacket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minibago Posted 4 hours ago Share Posted 4 hours ago I spent many days on my block with a pressure hose and various tools to pry loose the build up of rust and scale in the water galleries. The important thing is to get clear passage between each cylinder from top to bottom. It takes much patience and persistence to achieve good results. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpgp1999 Posted 2 hours ago Author Share Posted 2 hours ago Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpgp1999 Posted 2 hours ago Author Share Posted 2 hours ago I cut the valve at the bottom. Removed the spring. Engine spins freely. Valve still stuck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpgp1999 Posted 1 hour ago Author Share Posted 1 hour ago Should I tap and drill the valve. If I can get a bolt head on the stem it could be helpful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Gregush Posted 1 hour ago Share Posted 1 hour ago The bottom of that valve looks mushroomed out. if it is, best get in there with a small file and clean it up before trying to push it up. I had to do this same thing with a Model T block, just kept working at it. Only took a chunk out of one valve guide boss. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpgp1999 Posted 1 hour ago Author Share Posted 1 hour ago 7 minutes ago, Mark Gregush said: The bottom of that valve looks mushroomed out. if it is, best get in there with a small file and clean it up before trying to push it up. I had to do this same thing with a Model T block, just kept working at it. Only took a chunk out of one valve guide boss. I tried to get it to turn with a pair of vice grips. I tried to cut above the marks. I’ll file it. Is there a way to press the valve up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Gregush Posted 53 minutes ago Share Posted 53 minutes ago Tap it up from the bottom, tap it down from the top, use plenty of penetrating oil then let it soak (not WD-40), tap it down from the top, tap it up from the bottom, rinse and repeat. Tap don't hammer and use a brass punch if you can. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minibago Posted 48 minutes ago Share Posted 48 minutes ago I would clean the valve stem up at the top. Obtain a thick piece steel to make a plate / block with a threaded hole for a high tensile bolt (perhaps larger than half inch and turn down the end to the diameter of the valve stem) I would clamp this plate to the block rather than use the head studs. Use the bolt tightening to press out the damaged valve. Trying to punch it out will not be successful as the block will flex and could break. If necessary you could take both the guide and the valve remains out together but this would require an hydraulic press. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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