Daves1940Buick56S Posted February 11, 2022 Share Posted February 11, 2022 65 degrees today. Finally finished reinstalling the arch bracket that fits over the radiator on my 38 66s. Now the only thing left is to put the hood back on. So ends what started out as a fast block cleanout and turned into a new water pump, radiator removal, cyl head freeze plug replacement, and adding a pusher fan "while I was in there." A 1 week job turned into 4 months. C'est la guerre. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted February 12, 2022 Share Posted February 12, 2022 Today I calibrated and then tested operation of the automatic choke unit for my '38 Century. I hope to put it back on the car this weekend. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
32buick67 Posted February 20, 2022 Share Posted February 20, 2022 My wife and I made toe kick panels and started on interior sun visors in as close as we can get to the original Commodore blue color. She has the upcoming challenge of sewing the visor trim...I call it a '2-dinner' project. She just finished lining the toolbox with jute and fabric, that was a 'dinner and a show' project! 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Wiegand Posted February 22, 2022 Share Posted February 22, 2022 Oldbuicks2, when you redo the waterpump shaft, since there are umpteen different stainless alloys, consider something corrosion resistant, or something that has high wear resistance. When I did mine, we opted for the high wear resistant material. I am going to go back with Garlock Teflon-coated braided material. The engineers at Garlock tell me that the Teflon material is actually slicker on a rotating shaft than the Graphite impregnated rope material. There are some folks on here who talk about 'lip seals' and how this stops weepage. From everything that I have heard and read this is a total waste of good money. A little bit of weeping on an old Buick water pump is not going to hurt one thing. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted February 22, 2022 Share Posted February 22, 2022 On 2/11/2022 at 2:40 PM, Old buicks 2 said: Someone said they last a long time and don't heat up like the graphite rope does. Teflon is not recommended for hot water service. Yes, it will work, but will require relatively frequent adjustments and will eventually compress into a solid blob. As a retired pump and valve sales manager, I suggest you stick with graphite impregnated packing. 7 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Wiegand Posted February 22, 2022 Share Posted February 22, 2022 Somehow I just knew that this was going to start a controversy. Here is where I am coming from with this line of thinking. The machinist who straightened out the water pump bushing for me has a lot of experience with high pressure steam and water applications. He has solid knowledge regarding valves and rotating shaft applications. He has told me that Teflon would be his choice of packing for the water pump on our Buick. I spoke with an Applications Engineer at Garlock about this very issue. Neither of these two ever mentioned that HOT WATER would cause any problem with the Teflon material. They both knew that the application was going to be on a 6-Cylinder automobile engine. The normal operating temperature on an engine like this is going to be in the 180 to 190 degree range. If the temperature range was going to be in the 400 to 500 degree area, then I would readily agree that that could rather quickly cause some serious issues. I mentioned earlier that when the new shaft for my engine was made we used stainless material. Since the shaft is straight except for the gear area, the guys took the finished O.D. to size on a grinder. I think the finish is something around a 4RMS. This is like a plated and polished finish. There will be absolutely no issues with the Teflon packing running on this rotating shaft. One other point that I will bring up is this - IF there is a bit of weepage with this packing material I am not going to get in a twist over it. This will tell me that the bushings are being lubricated. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted February 23, 2022 Share Posted February 23, 2022 (edited) Terry, As I said, Teflon will work. However, it has a relatively high coefficient of expansion that will compress the packing on each heat cycle. Although Teflon packing will return almost all the way back to its' original shape, it will need more frequent adjustment than braided graphite impregnated packing that is made to work together with packing grease. Edited February 23, 2022 by Mark Shaw (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted February 23, 2022 Share Posted February 23, 2022 I put the valve cover back on after checking oil flow to the rocker shaft yesterday. Then replaced a few missing front fender bolts and tightened a few others. Weather yesterday was awesome but I didn't get other tasks completed in time for a drive. Thursday is supposed to be cold, but dry, so I'm hoping to be able to take my '38 Century for a short shakedown run. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buick35 Posted February 23, 2022 Author Share Posted February 23, 2022 (edited) I reinstalled the door panel on my 35 after replacing the window.I kind of messed up the window channel trying to bend it around the curve but I'll live with it for now. I did hide a 1935 quarter inside the door for any future restorers,also did my yearly oil change(on my birthday so I don't forget). Edited February 23, 2022 by Buick35 Add more text. (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buick35 Posted March 3, 2022 Author Share Posted March 3, 2022 I installed the second window channel without kinking it. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
32buick67 Posted March 16, 2022 Share Posted March 16, 2022 I was blitzing things tonight for quite a few hours: I adjusted all four mechanical brakes, rods, shafts, clevis, springs, etc. Finally got the beads to seat on new tires in the warm sun as Ed recommended, and those wheels are now mounted on the axles. 55F air temp, measured 103F on the rubber tire, and it was just soft enough for the bead to slowly ride into place with a LOT of dish soap in just the right places as not to disturb the talc which is spread all over the tube and inner tire in prep for future touring. I drained and filled (JD corn oil, hope this is a good idea) the Saginaw steering gears, and adjusted the lash and alignment. Air purged and lubed over 25 grease fittings and lines so far - and at some point I lost track of the fitting count, but I know they are all done, because my wife was running the grease gun while I was under the car checking for grease flow in the appropriate end points and fittings. I have to admit the Milwaukee grease gun with the long hose has been a life saver. The weather might be nice enough this week to put the Buick axles on the ground and drive it for a short prelim test of the brakes and clutch pedal settings. Its been another long winter so far since October, but much has been accomplished thanks to those of you on the forum who are so very helpful, and spring is coming! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted March 16, 2022 Share Posted March 16, 2022 65 degrees here today. I pulled Beulah out of her slumber. I had put her in storage on Jan.2nd. She started up instantly! She had a low left front tire. I also found that the gas tank I had repaired and relined is still seeping a bit. No rest for the wicked! I did get a 5-mile drive to limber her up. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buick35 Posted March 20, 2022 Author Share Posted March 20, 2022 Installed a locking outside door handle,now I have to get a second key made, on my 35 Buick. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95Cardinal Posted March 20, 2022 Share Posted March 20, 2022 I discovered that I need new rear axle shafts and bearings for my 1910 Model 19! The axles were apparently replaced when the rear end was converted to modern bearings. Look like they used the wrong steel for the axle shafts; this is definitely NOT 4140 steel. There is almost 0.060" of wear at the bearing load surface. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcslr Posted March 20, 2022 Share Posted March 20, 2022 Fabricated exhaust hangers for 8-96S. Will begin install of new exhaust system late this week. Finished rebuild of a backup carburetor. Building jig to bend wiper arms. ( from an original arm) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted March 21, 2022 Share Posted March 21, 2022 Getting new wind wings to be made up in Lexan for the 1925s. A friend lent me an original 1920s Buick example to do a pattern. I will switch between either the Standard or Master depending on my need. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buick35 Posted March 21, 2022 Author Share Posted March 21, 2022 23 hours ago, tcslr said: Fabricated exhaust hangers for 8-96S. Will begin install of new exhaust system late this week. Finished rebuild of a backup carburetor. Building jig to bend wiper arms. ( from an original arm) Could you post a picture of your exhaust hanger?I need to make one for my 35 but I'm sure it's different.Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted March 23, 2022 Share Posted March 23, 2022 While I am getting a quote on the Lexan wings, I thought I would check the fit for the original with my replated clamp/brackets. It has to go behind the Stewart spotlight. No problem. Side curtains would be a problem though. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted March 23, 2022 Share Posted March 23, 2022 I put the newly re-spoked wood wheels on my '13 Buick getting ready for a tour next week. Just need to get the tires on tomorrow. 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldtech Posted March 24, 2022 Share Posted March 24, 2022 Well... I don't need it yet but I made a new horn button for the D-35. Old one was broken. Goes on door. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
32buick67 Posted April 10, 2022 Share Posted April 10, 2022 My wife and I drove our 32 Buick harder than normal today as we emerge from a winter in the garage, previously sorting all kinds of things on the car, and hoping to see what fails next when pushed to its limits. We drove almost 100mi on the car today, without issue, and so very thankful for that! My wife drove for about 10mi on some country roads up to 45mph, she was delighted. I hovered around 50mph for most of the drive today, holding steady 30+psi oil pressure (SAE30 HD now, soon to change to 20-50), water temp about 120F (ambient 54F) using 60/40 Zerex green IAT, ~12mpg using non-oxy 91 octane winter fuel, water pump packing finally stopped its weeping (small victory), and the generator is now working correctly. The new replacement venturi's and Marvel carb were helping pull steeper grades well - thankfully no coughs, no backfires, no leaks, no flat spots, just smooth power and torque up the grade. The plugs looked great after the run today, and the blow-by and vapors have really been reduced on this engine now with more regular harder running (not idling in a garage). MN roads aren't like what I am used to on the East Coast, but our car climbed out of Taylors Falls no problem, and surprisingly gained speed up the grade to ~1000ft elevation. More importantly the brakes worked well into Taylors Falls on 1st St, which has a descending grade as high as 13.1%. The drums were hot to the touch after such a hard descent, but the brakes were not soft and still had plenty of stopping power, which makes me feel better about mechanical brake safety for more driving this summer. On deck are some alignment tweaks, fix the gas tank sending unit, and I think this car might be ready for more regular driving. My car is far from perfect, I have much work to go, but it seems like it is starting to resurrect a bit from its 20+yr slumber/fatigue. I am very thankful for everyone on this forum who has been so very helpful with advice, parts, encouragement, and a high stewardship bar that I am trying to rise to! Best, Mario 8 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted April 10, 2022 Share Posted April 10, 2022 What did you do to your pre war Buick today? I sold it! The check cleared yesterday. Title with release signature goes out tomorrow. Now we wait for the transport to come pick it up. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Engle Posted April 10, 2022 Share Posted April 10, 2022 I began going down my checklist on getting my new acquisition a 1932 Model 56S on the road. I towed it home Friday. It's been stored in a climate controlled for 5 years. My plan is to keep it unrestored but drive it a lot. I removed the carb and stripped it down and It's soaking in carb cleaner now. I removed the plugs and squirted some atf and sovent in each cylinder. I removed the valve cover and tapped each valve, non stuck. I pulled the dead battery. Distributor needs to get pulled for a rebuild. Worst part will be cleaning the fuel system from tank to carb. Bob Engle 15 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Engle Posted April 12, 2022 Share Posted April 12, 2022 I installed a cut off switch on the bottom of the seat support. No battery cut off's. I need to measure the lengths of the cable I now need. I know many people put the cut outs under the hood, but I prefer to get in the car, turn on the power and fire up the car. Same for shutting down. Bob Engle 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted April 13, 2022 Share Posted April 13, 2022 I removed the speedometer head from behind the dash of my '38 Century. Thanks to Matt H. and Don for suggesting that approach as an alternative to removing the dashboard and the entire cluster as an assembly. After comparing it with the spare unit I have it appears the spare one is in better condition mechanically (appears to have less wear). My plan is to thoroughly clean and lubricate the spare and transfer the main and trip odometers from the original to the spare before installing it in the car. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill - 29 Buick Posted April 13, 2022 Share Posted April 13, 2022 (edited) Getting ready to release the 29 Roadster from winter hibernation ! Bill McLaughlin Toronto, Canada ... and now uncovered and almost ready to go ! Edited April 13, 2022 by Bill - 29 Buick Moving forward (see edit history) 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justinlb Posted April 13, 2022 Share Posted April 13, 2022 Took her for a spin. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted April 16, 2022 Share Posted April 16, 2022 (edited) Working up installation of wind wings made from Lexan. The original glass as a pattern that we made the Lexan ones from. Still have to do some more polishing to get the bevel more transparent. Edited April 16, 2022 by dibarlaw (see edit history) 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcslr Posted April 16, 2022 Share Posted April 16, 2022 Replaced the exhaust system on the ‘31 8-96S. measured and traced profile for roof crown molding to begin forming. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted April 16, 2022 Share Posted April 16, 2022 5 hours ago, dibarlaw said: Working up installation of wind wings made from Lexan. Larry, why Lexan as opposed to glass? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted April 17, 2022 Share Posted April 17, 2022 EmTee: 1 The original plate glass weighs a lot. Very heavy.! My clamps are somewhat fragile in being able to exert enough pressure to hold the heavy glass without bending. 2 To replace with safety glass and still try to get it shaped and beveled...I would not even guess the expense! It would still be just as heavy. 3 The Lexan is quite tough, transparent of course shatterproof as well as less susceptible to scratching than other plastics. Weighs about 1/3 that of the glass. 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted April 17, 2022 Share Posted April 17, 2022 Thanks Larry, that makes perfect sense and I think the Lexan will make a nice finished product. I suspected the reason might have something to do with weight or durability since those are primary advantages for polycarbonate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Engle Posted April 19, 2022 Share Posted April 19, 2022 I pulled the differential cover off of the 32-56S today. The lube was like a low grade tar. I found the bad news. A pinion gear tooth was found in the bottom of the housing. The good news is I have a spare differential that I'll swap out the gears keeping the original housing with the car. It's a pain setting the gear lash, but it's a necessary evil. Bob Engle 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted April 20, 2022 Share Posted April 20, 2022 (edited) I guess it is my BUICK at this time. Stripping parts from a forlorn 1924-45 cowl to send to those in need. 27donB needed the 2 salvageable windshield caps for his 1924 Re-restoration. Dave B needed one of the upper windshield pivot caps for his 1928-25. I had to cut the upper frame apart to get them out. I picked up quite a bit of 1924 6-cylinder parts recently, so I need to find good homes for them. Edited April 20, 2022 by dibarlaw (see edit history) 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Engle Posted April 20, 2022 Share Posted April 20, 2022 I pulled the differential gears out today. I didn't pull the whole differential out, just the gears and shaft. I don't know if I can install the replacement gears without having to separate the torque tube at the transmission to get the shaft splines aligned. From looking at the ring gear, my assumption is that the pinion was to far engaged with the ring gear. I'm surprised that the ring gear didn't fail instead of the pinion gear. Lots to clean up now and several hours of setting for correct contact and backlash. Slow and frustrating work. Bob Engle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted April 20, 2022 Share Posted April 20, 2022 19 minutes ago, Robert Engle said: Lots to clean up now and several hours of setting for correct contact and backlash. Slow and frustrating work. Yes, but at least you don't have to hunt for the replacement parts... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_bigD Posted April 25, 2022 Share Posted April 25, 2022 Changed the transmission and diff fluids. Used Sta-Lube 140W GL4 in the trani and the heavier weight (I had 90W in there before) virtually eliminates gear clashing from the synchros. Steve D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted May 9, 2022 Share Posted May 9, 2022 I finished putting the valvetrain in my '08 Model F Buick today. One more step closer to getting it running. Now waiting to get the water pump back so I can install it. It is out on loan so a friend can get one made for his car. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oregon Desert model 45 Posted May 10, 2022 Share Posted May 10, 2022 A few of the longer parts like windshield frame needed rust removal, so looking around for a tank big enough to hold a long part I realized the big refuse bin could hold a lot of water if the handle holes were sealed with calk. All it takes is water, Washing Soda, a battery charger, and some scrap steel parts for sacrificial anodes. The old paint remaining on these parts seems to lose its bond with the part during the process, so about the only preparation needed is to clean a spot for the negative lead from the charger to make good contact where it will not be submerged in the solution. After sitting in the solution overnight with charger on, the rust and old paint will loosen up and start coming off with some wire brushing. It does take some elbow grease to clean down to bare metal. The charger seems to draw under 2 amps at the start, and after scrubbing off some paint and rust it draws a little more and a steady stream of hydrogen bubbles can be seen coming off the part. Behind the electrolysis bin is a rain barrel which I use for scrubbing and rinsing off the rust, paint, and solution. This process is pretty inexpensive compared to other rust removal processes. the Washing Soda cost under $4 and was available in the laundry detergent aisle at the local grocery store. The next power bill might be higher due to near constant use of the battery charger for the last 2 weeks, but I am not expecting this to be significantly higher. When I am done with cleaning car parts, the solution can be safely poured on the ground. Kevin 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted May 10, 2022 Share Posted May 10, 2022 I had the new tires for my '38 mounted on the rims, which I first cleaned-up and repainted. Now just need to put them on the car and drive... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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