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About Steve_bigD

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  • Birthday 12/14/1948

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  1. Here is a photo of the heater shutoff valve I just installed on the top hose: Steve D
  2. Rodney, My water pump is out for rebuilding but I'll post photos after I get it all back together. I got my shutoff valve from Amazon: Steve
  3. Thanks for the responses. I think it is easier to rout the hoses if I put the valve on the inlet side so I'll probably do that. I also found the drawing below showing the heater hose routing. Note the top hose goes to the bottom core inlet. Steve D
  4. I am installing a water shutoff valve in my 1938 Buick 40-41 so the heat to the core can be shut off in summer and was wondering if it it makes any difference if it installed in the input line from the thermostat housing or in the return line to the water pump? Thanks, Steve D
  5. I have attached a write-up for how I did my headlight relay installation. Hopefully it will be helpful. Steve D 1938 Buick Halogen Headlight relay installation.docx
  6. This is the 00AWG battery cable I got from ebay: All pre-terminated and available in multiple lengths. I got the starter lug with a 3/8" hole. Steve D
  7. Mine did the same thigh driving home from a show years ago. I used the dash throttle to drive about 25 miles home. I used the flexible isolator material from an universal exhaust hanger which I cut and drilled to the same shape as the original. That material is a fabric/rubber laminate and as strong as the original and has worked flawlessly for over 10 years so far. You have to remove the pedal linkage to make the repair. Steve D
  8. Jack, My turn signals are wired to both the brake lights and the fender lights so there is enough current drawn by the stop lights to operate the flasher. You are right about the orange-red color of the tail lights with the halogen bulbs and if I were to do it again I would go with the red colored bulbs you are using. Steve D
  9. Driving my 38 Special back from my son's wedding last summer at night I realized how bad the lights were. At 50MPH I was overdriving the lights and the brake lights were barely brighter than taillights! I had the Uvira process done to the reflectors about 35 years ago and they still reflect great. The problem was the wiring and bulbs. So first I converted the 6V generator to a 6V alternator rated for 75A and 35A at idle, and changed the generator wiring to the battery and ignition to 10AWG. This also increased the voltage during cranking to the Pertronix ignition unit. Next I rebuilt the taillight assemblies with new 16AWG wiring and sockets, switched to halogen stop/tail bulbs from Anthony Pearson and switched the front fender lights (now turn signals) to LED bulbs. For the headlights the 55/60W halogen bulbs I used, also from Anthony, would draw too much current from the wiring and light switch so I designed a dual 6V relay assembly that I mounted inside each headlight bucket for hi/lo beam. The relay coils were driven by the headlight switch and the relay contacts were new 14AWG wiring from the relays to the bulbs and from the bulbs to a new headlight fuse. From the fuse to the alternator terminal I used 10AWG. The inline sealed fuse was mounted on the driver side inside fender where the harness breaks out for the alternator and headlights. Now I get the full voltage from the alternator to the lights and the lights are almost as bright as a modern non-HID headlight. I just need to aim the lights when the weather gets better. I also discovered while measuring voltage drops that the positive 2AWG battery terminal was dropping 0.4V during cranking. The heavy ground braid had only 75mv drop! I found a nice red rubber insulated pre-terminated 00AWG cable on E-bay with a 3/8" lug on the starter end for $15 which reduced the drop to <100mv. I also switched to an Optima battery and now the car cranks like a 12V car even at 35 degrees with 20W-50 oil. I get no less than 5.7V at the ignition terminal during cranking. If anyone is interested I have a lot of photos documenting these changes. Steve D
  10. My 1938 Special has a rear two piece rope seal as well as the spirals. The front timing cover and rear main rope seals as not as good as modern rubber ones but I rebuilt my engine over 30 years ago and still only have minor seepage at the seals. Steve D
  11. Don, The silver band indicates the cathode of the diode so it would be connected to the + side of the coil and the unbanded end to the ground side of the coil. Steve D
  12. For the clock arcing contact issue simply place a 1N4003 diode or equivalent across the coil which clamps the inductive kickback when the contacts open. The diode should have the anode connected to the ground side of the coil. Steve D
  13. The most critical thing is to replace the electrolytic caps first, then all paper/wax caps. Mica and ceramics usually will be OK. The vibrator most likely will need replacing as well and there are modern solid state equivalents available. Any rubber wires will be brittle and cracking and need to be replaced but cloth wires are usually OK. After a good cleaning do a alignment with a signal generator for best reception. Schematic and alignment info is available at among other places: Steve D
  14. While measuring the generator voltage at the regulator terminal on my 1938 40-41 I returned my digital meter to a chassis/body ground and got a good stable reading. However when I returned it to the engine the meter reading jumped around wildly. Typically this means that there is a noise voltage drop between the engine and the chassis. I want to add a good ground connection, say 6-8 AWG between the engine and the chassis/body. Has anyone else done this and perhaps knows a good location to add this ground? Thanks, Steve D
  15. You can also use the hand throttle to keep the idle high on cold start if the fast idle spring cam is weak as it the case on many of these cars. It also was indispensable when my accelerator pedal flexible canvas linkage failed and I was able to drive the car home using this hand throttle. Steve D