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About Steve_bigD

  • Birthday 12/14/1948

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  1. I also have been using an electric fuel pump for the past 20 years on my 1938 40-41 but I found out early that these pumps are typically set to 5-6 pounds pressure which is too high for our carbs and my carb ran rich and slightly flooded. I added a pressure regulator between the electric fuel pump and the mechanical pump set to 3 pounds nominal and it runs just like the mechanical pump. An electric pump is great for the infrequent starting typical for many of our hobby cars and eliminates hot weather vapor lock due to our modern high volatility fuels. Just be sure that your mechanical pump diaphragm is in good condition as the electric pump will pump gas into the crankcase if it leaks. Steve D
  2. I have had a Petronix on my 1938 40-41 for the past 5 years and it runs good though not all that much better than the old points and capacitor. However I did run into problems with low battery voltage. The Petronix voltage range low end spec is 5.2V. I found that without a full battery charge and with the drop in voltage across the wiring from the battery to the coil that my car would not start. I measured the voltage at the coil between 4.5 and 5V during cranking. So I changed the battery cables to new 000 gauge and ran new 10AWG wiring from the battery starter terminal to the coil and that did make a difference. However I think it is still marginal since when I tried to start the engine with the temperature around 35 deg. it would not start and the voltage was below 5V during cranking even with my Optima battery constantly on maintenance charge and fully charged. 5.2V minimum operating voltage is simply not low enough for reliable starting; once it starts the generator provides plenty of voltage for good operation. So I will be removing my Petronix and going back to good old points ignition. I believe that the Petronix is a good design with the one major flaw of too high minimum operating voltage. Steve D
  3. What gauge are the battery cables? If the cable is hot along its whole length then either the current draw is excessive or the cable gauge is too small. I use AWG 00 gauge cables on my 38 special and they run cool and the engine cranks beautifully. The drop across the positive cable which is about 18" long is less than 0.1V during cranking.
  4. My 38 Special pulled hard to the right, almost yanking the steering wheel out of my hands when cold and after the brakes warmed up it got a bit less but was still there. Turned out to be a bad inner wheel bearing seal which allowed grease to leak onto the brake shoe surfaces. I replaced the seal and the brake shoes and now I can take my hands off the steering wheel while braking and it doesn't move. Steve D
  5. On my 38 special I was able to remove and install the water pump with the fan attached without hitting the radiator. Since the upper hose, thermostat housing heater hoses and lower hose are already removed there is just enough space to lift it out. I did this twice within a few weeks since the first replacement pump ceramic seal was damaged in shipment and leaked like a sieve. Steve D
  6. I used "The Flying Dutchman" to rebuild my pump. Reasonably price and lead time and he even painted it Buick green. Working great. http://water-pump-rebuilders.com/contact.html Steve D
  7. On my 1938 Special I installed a Quick Fuel adjustable pressure regulator between the pump and the carb and set it to 2 1/2 lbs. pressure. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qft-30-804qft file:///C:/Users/steve/OneDrive/Pictures/Our Photos/38 Buick/Quick Fuel 30-804 Quick Fuel Billet Pressure Regulators, Manifolds and Diaphragm Kits.htm Steve D
  8. I had brake pulling to the right on my 1938 Special which turned out to be leaking inner wheel bearing seals. Replaced the seals but also had to replace the brake shoes as the grease had contaminated them. Did a major brake adjustment when I installed the new shoes and the car brakes perfectly now. Steve D
  9. I use this 00 AWG cable with the proper connectors already attached on my 1938 Buick. The drop across the cables during starting is less than 0.1V. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Positive-Battery-Cable-2-0-AWG-00-Gauge-Ga-Copper-Custom-Made-Auto-Truck-Marine/131905856172?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 I also found that the that cheap green knob type battery disconnect was dropping almost 0.5V during cranking. Steve D
  10. Most of the coolant will drain out when the pump is removed. I drained as much as I could by removing the lower hose connection at the radiator and letting it drain into a large tub. Got about 80% of the coolant. I want to also recommend Flying Dutchman who my rebuilt bump but when I received it, it leaked worse than before. Turned out it was caused by a cracked ceramic seal that occurred in shipping. He sent me a replacement immediately and later I returned the bad one. Great service and the new pump works flawlessly. Steve D
  11. I found this body inspection sheet under the front seat when I redid the interior of my 1938 Buick Special. It is a bit hard to read but it shows that there were some production defects that had to be fixed. Steve D
  12. Good job, glad you did this before accumulating too much mileage. I had the exact same issue 25 years ago after rebuilding my 38 Special engine which had 20-25 lbs at 50MPH and 2-3 lbs at idle when hot. Your description is step for step what I did but I bought a rebuilt pump. Now, on cold start it goes to 45 lbs and stays there until the oil gets hot when it drops to 30-35 lbs at 50MPH and 10 lbs at idle. There is a relief spring in the pump that I think limits the max. pressure to 45 lbs but your pump seems to go higher. Was your pump rebuilt to factory specs or was the relief pressure increased? I suspect your pump is correct as my daily driver, a 2012 Cadillac CTS-V, shows 55-60 lbs cold and drops to 40-45 lbs hot and 20-25 lbs at idle (idle RPM is faster than on the Buick) which is closer to what your pressure characteristic shows. Steve D
  13. I had severe foaming with EG coolant which turned out to be a cracked cylinder head at the rear two cylinder exhaust valve seats. The coolant would virtually blow and bubble out of the overflow tube after a high speed run. After replacing the head I still had a bit of foaming with EG and the car would run cool until a sustained highway drive where the temperature would slowly rise up to over 200 deg. This turned out to be a partially clogged radiator and after re-coring the radiator the foaming is totally gone. I use standard Prestone EG 50-50 and keep the radiator tank filled about 0.5-1" over the top of the tubes. I have yet to add coolant in two years and it runs 170-180 all the time. I think that EG coolants tend to foam if agitated enough and air injected into the system (cracked head leak) or a backup in the radiator causing agitation can cause foaming. If the cooling system was in factory new condition I am sure EG coolant would not foam. To be safe and account for a not so perfect system condition pressurizing the system to 7lb. should suppress any slight tendency to foam. This can be done by removing the metal overflow tube and soldering the opening closed, then changing the filler inlet to a pressure type with a built-in overflow tube port. A rubber tube can be run from the port down the original overflow tube clips. I plan to do this soon. As an aside, for every pound of pressure, the boiling point of the coolant will rise by about 2 degrees. A 50-50 mix of EG will boil at about 226 degrees at sea level pressure so with a 7lb. cap the boiling point will be 240 degrees. This gives a nice margin of safety. Steve D
  14. Do you know if the 1995 Jeep clutch will also ft a 1938 special? Thanks, Steve D
  15. Electronic ignitions produce a higher voltage which could cause marginal spark plug wires to break down causing misfires. It would be especially noticeable under load. If the spark plug gaps have been increased as if often done with electronic ignition that would also increase the firing voltage. I would replace the spark plug wires and check the plug gaps. Steve D
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