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About Steve_bigD

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  • Birthday 12/14/1948

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  1. I had brake pulling to the right on my 1938 Special which turned out to be leaking inner wheel bearing seals. Replaced the seals but also had to replace the brake shoes as the grease had contaminated them. Did a major brake adjustment when I installed the new shoes and the car brakes perfectly now. Steve D
  2. I use this 00 AWG cable with the proper connectors already attached on my 1938 Buick. The drop across the cables during starting is less than 0.1V. I also found that the that cheap green knob type battery disconnect was dropping almost 0.5V during cranking. Steve D
  3. Most of the coolant will drain out when the pump is removed. I drained as much as I could by removing the lower hose connection at the radiator and letting it drain into a large tub. Got about 80% of the coolant. I want to also recommend Flying Dutchman who my rebuilt bump but when I received it, it leaked worse than before. Turned out it was caused by a cracked ceramic seal that occurred in shipping. He sent me a replacement immediately and later I returned the bad one. Great service and the new pump works flawlessly. Steve D
  4. I found this body inspection sheet under the front seat when I redid the interior of my 1938 Buick Special. It is a bit hard to read but it shows that there were some production defects that had to be fixed. Steve D
  5. Good job, glad you did this before accumulating too much mileage. I had the exact same issue 25 years ago after rebuilding my 38 Special engine which had 20-25 lbs at 50MPH and 2-3 lbs at idle when hot. Your description is step for step what I did but I bought a rebuilt pump. Now, on cold start it goes to 45 lbs and stays there until the oil gets hot when it drops to 30-35 lbs at 50MPH and 10 lbs at idle. There is a relief spring in the pump that I think limits the max. pressure to 45 lbs but your pump seems to go higher. Was your pump rebuilt to factory specs or was the relief pressure increased? I suspect your pump is correct as my daily driver, a 2012 Cadillac CTS-V, shows 55-60 lbs cold and drops to 40-45 lbs hot and 20-25 lbs at idle (idle RPM is faster than on the Buick) which is closer to what your pressure characteristic shows. Steve D
  6. I had severe foaming with EG coolant which turned out to be a cracked cylinder head at the rear two cylinder exhaust valve seats. The coolant would virtually blow and bubble out of the overflow tube after a high speed run. After replacing the head I still had a bit of foaming with EG and the car would run cool until a sustained highway drive where the temperature would slowly rise up to over 200 deg. This turned out to be a partially clogged radiator and after re-coring the radiator the foaming is totally gone. I use standard Prestone EG 50-50 and keep the radiator tank filled about 0.5-1" over the top of the tubes. I have yet to add coolant in two years and it runs 170-180 all the time. I think that EG coolants tend to foam if agitated enough and air injected into the system (cracked head leak) or a backup in the radiator causing agitation can cause foaming. If the cooling system was in factory new condition I am sure EG coolant would not foam. To be safe and account for a not so perfect system condition pressurizing the system to 7lb. should suppress any slight tendency to foam. This can be done by removing the metal overflow tube and soldering the opening closed, then changing the filler inlet to a pressure type with a built-in overflow tube port. A rubber tube can be run from the port down the original overflow tube clips. I plan to do this soon. As an aside, for every pound of pressure, the boiling point of the coolant will rise by about 2 degrees. A 50-50 mix of EG will boil at about 226 degrees at sea level pressure so with a 7lb. cap the boiling point will be 240 degrees. This gives a nice margin of safety. Steve D
  7. Do you know if the 1995 Jeep clutch will also ft a 1938 special? Thanks, Steve D
  8. Electronic ignitions produce a higher voltage which could cause marginal spark plug wires to break down causing misfires. It would be especially noticeable under load. If the spark plug gaps have been increased as if often done with electronic ignition that would also increase the firing voltage. I would replace the spark plug wires and check the plug gaps. Steve D
  9. Here is a photo of the heater shutoff valve I just installed on the top hose: Steve D
  10. Rodney, My water pump is out for rebuilding but I'll post photos after I get it all back together. I got my shutoff valve from Amazon: Steve
  11. Thanks for the responses. I think it is easier to rout the hoses if I put the valve on the inlet side so I'll probably do that. I also found the drawing below showing the heater hose routing. Note the top hose goes to the bottom core inlet. Steve D
  12. I am installing a water shutoff valve in my 1938 Buick 40-41 so the heat to the core can be shut off in summer and was wondering if it it makes any difference if it installed in the input line from the thermostat housing or in the return line to the water pump? Thanks, Steve D
  13. I have attached a write-up for how I did my headlight relay installation. Hopefully it will be helpful. Steve D 1938 Buick Halogen Headlight relay installation.docx
  14. This is the 00AWG battery cable I got from ebay: All pre-terminated and available in multiple lengths. I got the starter lug with a 3/8" hole. Steve D
  15. Mine did the same thigh driving home from a show years ago. I used the dash throttle to drive about 25 miles home. I used the flexible isolator material from an universal exhaust hanger which I cut and drilled to the same shape as the original. That material is a fabric/rubber laminate and as strong as the original and has worked flawlessly for over 10 years so far. You have to remove the pedal linkage to make the repair. Steve D