Steve_bigD

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About Steve_bigD

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  • Birthday 12/14/1948

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  1. I found this body inspection sheet under the front seat when I redid the interior of my 1938 Buick Special. It is a bit hard to read but it shows that there were some production defects that had to be fixed. Steve D
  2. Good job, glad you did this before accumulating too much mileage. I had the exact same issue 25 years ago after rebuilding my 38 Special engine which had 20-25 lbs at 50MPH and 2-3 lbs at idle when hot. Your description is step for step what I did but I bought a rebuilt pump. Now, on cold start it goes to 45 lbs and stays there until the oil gets hot when it drops to 30-35 lbs at 50MPH and 10 lbs at idle. There is a relief spring in the pump that I think limits the max. pressure to 45 lbs but your pump seems to go higher. Was your pump rebuilt to factory specs or was the relief pressure increased? I suspect your pump is correct as my daily driver, a 2012 Cadillac CTS-V, shows 55-60 lbs cold and drops to 40-45 lbs hot and 20-25 lbs at idle (idle RPM is faster than on the Buick) which is closer to what your pressure characteristic shows. Steve D
  3. I had severe foaming with EG coolant which turned out to be a cracked cylinder head at the rear two cylinder exhaust valve seats. The coolant would virtually blow and bubble out of the overflow tube after a high speed run. After replacing the head I still had a bit of foaming with EG and the car would run cool until a sustained highway drive where the temperature would slowly rise up to over 200 deg. This turned out to be a partially clogged radiator and after re-coring the radiator the foaming is totally gone. I use standard Prestone EG 50-50 and keep the radiator tank filled about 0.5-1" over the top of the tubes. I have yet to add coolant in two years and it runs 170-180 all the time. I think that EG coolants tend to foam if agitated enough and air injected into the system (cracked head leak) or a backup in the radiator causing agitation can cause foaming. If the cooling system was in factory new condition I am sure EG coolant would not foam. To be safe and account for a not so perfect system condition pressurizing the system to 7lb. should suppress any slight tendency to foam. This can be done by removing the metal overflow tube and soldering the opening closed, then changing the filler inlet to a pressure type with a built-in overflow tube port. A rubber tube can be run from the port down the original overflow tube clips. I plan to do this soon. As an aside, for every pound of pressure, the boiling point of the coolant will rise by about 2 degrees. A 50-50 mix of EG will boil at about 226 degrees at sea level pressure so with a 7lb. cap the boiling point will be 240 degrees. This gives a nice margin of safety. Steve D
  4. Do you know if the 1995 Jeep clutch will also ft a 1938 special? Thanks, Steve D
  5. Electronic ignitions produce a higher voltage which could cause marginal spark plug wires to break down causing misfires. It would be especially noticeable under load. If the spark plug gaps have been increased as if often done with electronic ignition that would also increase the firing voltage. I would replace the spark plug wires and check the plug gaps. Steve D
  6. Here is a photo of the heater shutoff valve I just installed on the top hose: Steve D
  7. Rodney, My water pump is out for rebuilding but I'll post photos after I get it all back together. I got my shutoff valve from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000DCNGKQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Steve
  8. Thanks for the responses. I think it is easier to rout the hoses if I put the valve on the inlet side so I'll probably do that. I also found the drawing below showing the heater hose routing. Note the top hose goes to the bottom core inlet. Steve D
  9. I am installing a water shutoff valve in my 1938 Buick 40-41 so the heat to the core can be shut off in summer and was wondering if it it makes any difference if it installed in the input line from the thermostat housing or in the return line to the water pump? Thanks, Steve D
  10. I have attached a write-up for how I did my headlight relay installation. Hopefully it will be helpful. Steve D 1938 Buick Halogen Headlight relay installation.docx
  11. This is the 00AWG battery cable I got from ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Positive-Battery-Cable-2-0-AWG-00-Gauge-Ga-Copper-Custom-Made-Auto-Truck-Marine-/131905856172?var=&hash=item1eb633a2ac All pre-terminated and available in multiple lengths. I got the starter lug with a 3/8" hole. Steve D
  12. Mine did the same thigh driving home from a show years ago. I used the dash throttle to drive about 25 miles home. I used the flexible isolator material from an universal exhaust hanger which I cut and drilled to the same shape as the original. That material is a fabric/rubber laminate and as strong as the original and has worked flawlessly for over 10 years so far. You have to remove the pedal linkage to make the repair. Steve D
  13. Jack, My turn signals are wired to both the brake lights and the fender lights so there is enough current drawn by the stop lights to operate the flasher. You are right about the orange-red color of the tail lights with the halogen bulbs and if I were to do it again I would go with the red colored bulbs you are using. Steve D
  14. Driving my 38 Special back from my son's wedding last summer at night I realized how bad the lights were. At 50MPH I was overdriving the lights and the brake lights were barely brighter than taillights! I had the Uvira process done to the reflectors about 35 years ago and they still reflect great. The problem was the wiring and bulbs. So first I converted the 6V generator to a 6V alternator rated for 75A and 35A at idle, and changed the generator wiring to the battery and ignition to 10AWG. This also increased the voltage during cranking to the Pertronix ignition unit. Next I rebuilt the taillight assemblies with new 16AWG wiring and sockets, switched to halogen stop/tail bulbs from Anthony Pearson and switched the front fender lights (now turn signals) to LED bulbs. For the headlights the 55/60W halogen bulbs I used, also from Anthony, would draw too much current from the wiring and light switch so I designed a dual 6V relay assembly that I mounted inside each headlight bucket for hi/lo beam. The relay coils were driven by the headlight switch and the relay contacts were new 14AWG wiring from the relays to the bulbs and from the bulbs to a new headlight fuse. From the fuse to the alternator terminal I used 10AWG. The inline sealed fuse was mounted on the driver side inside fender where the harness breaks out for the alternator and headlights. Now I get the full voltage from the alternator to the lights and the lights are almost as bright as a modern non-HID headlight. I just need to aim the lights when the weather gets better. I also discovered while measuring voltage drops that the positive 2AWG battery terminal was dropping 0.4V during cranking. The heavy ground braid had only 75mv drop! I found a nice red rubber insulated pre-terminated 00AWG cable on E-bay with a 3/8" lug on the starter end for $15 which reduced the drop to <100mv. I also switched to an Optima battery and now the car cranks like a 12V car even at 35 degrees with 20W-50 oil. I get no less than 5.7V at the ignition terminal during cranking. If anyone is interested I have a lot of photos documenting these changes. Steve D
  15. My 1938 Special has a rear two piece rope seal as well as the spirals. The front timing cover and rear main rope seals as not as good as modern rubber ones but I rebuilt my engine over 30 years ago and still only have minor seepage at the seals. Steve D