Oldtech

It's not for a Ford T. They are side draft. Unless modified of ourse.

If that hole is indeed just a straight hole I would just use a piece of drill rod peened at both ends. I think brass would work too. What was the original fix? is it a standard size?

Not totally following the story here but the main thing is the side-to-side play in the upper bushing. This prevents you getting an accurate point setting and affects the running. The end play wouldn't concern me. I'm not sure what is loose on the bottom but a pin needs to be snug. You can always ream the hole and put in a larger one.

I know it's the digital age but it means "counter clock wise:" as in opposite to the normal clock direction. 😁

There you go! The choke should be just closed at "room temp". 70 degrees. That would help. That's assuming it is working properly which is a whole 'nuther subject.

If its only right after startup how about the choke?

What I see here looks good.

I'm not sure where the bottom end of the right side wire goes but it can't be connected to the points and grounded. The moving point must only be connected to the wire to the distributor. Just checking !!

"for now, Im a broke teen fixxing up my first truck." This brought a chuckle. Yep Most of us started out there. My first car was a 49 CDN pontiac that I bought for 10.00 in 1963?

Not sure where you are but 63 is the taxable horsepower used in some European countries to set insurance and registration prices.

If hoses are both hot you likely have control / door problems

First: check that you have 6 volts to the - terminal of the coil. If so you need to investigate in the distributor. A few suggestions are: Points. Are the contatcs clean and not badly pitted. Are they opening and closing properly? anout a .015 opening on the high spot on the cam. Do you get a spark at the points with the key on, and you manually open and close them? As above? wires in the distributor. Another thing is if it has the big flat connector to the points. It must not touch the frame. There should be insulation around or behind it.

I can't see much of the solenoid but if you take a jumper wire and put power to the small terminal on the solenoid it should engage the starter. If there is no "click" or anything the solenoid is likely bad. If the starter runs off the car it shoud at lease engage Is the battery fully charged? Do you have a booster cable that you could hook directly to the frame of the starter and the battery ground to eliminate any grounding problems.

I think it's in right but there's wear on the stub. needs a sleeve?

Your problem has ( or at least had) NOTHING to do with timing. Either there is a fuel starvation issue or breaker points as mentioned above. Does it rev up in second gear?