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About Oldtech

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 01/02/1947

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  • Location:
    Saskatchewan Canada
  • Interests:
    Buick and McLaughlin teens and 20s. Old cars and tractors of all types

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  1. Well I didn't explain it real well but if number 1 is on firing position, number 6 is just at that sweet point where the exhaust is closing and the intake starting to open. The intake closes at Bottom dead center - usually a little after. As a way of checking that you cam timing is correct if you can put either 1 or 6 at firing position, rock the crank back and forth with your fingers on the 2 valves of the one not on firing position. you can tell if it's basically right. Probably not within a tooth but that's what the marks are for.
  2. My 17 has steel gears. I don't know when they changed but 25 and up had fiber gears from the factory. To check your timing. get the 1 and 6 pistons on TDC and find which has the exhaust just closing and the intake just about to open. If that is happening and the marks are aligned be happy. Another thing that can happen with the fiber gears is that they come loose on the hub and slip. They were quiet but they were sometimes trouble.
  3. I'm not real familiar with the 37.distributor. the b-in-law has one, may go there and have a look next weekend. My experience with old distributors is to pull em out, take them apart and go through everything. Bushings, advance mechanism, and all the wires and insulators. Clean and replace as necessary. Then they work.
  4. Yea. great to see it going. Congrats
  5. Well... Actually in the central and northern it's not all flat. We have the Saskatchewan and Battle rivers with high banks and grades over a mile long .
  6. I want to think on this a bit. When I was a kid,,, a while ago, our car was a 27 Buick Standard. I don't remember dad ever having an issue running out of fuel on a hill, The 17 D-35 that he had before that was also known as a good hill climber. I have a 29 IHC truck that has a vacuum tank although it is the later design without the switch arm mechanism, and it went all the way to the grain terminal with the throttle wide open, as it was way under powered. Never a problem. I have often wondered why. Is the carb engineered too small so the vacuum never hits zero? One thing I found on the d-35 4 cylinder is that the valve timing of the intake valve is way late by modern standards, I wondered if they did that to increase vacuum? I'm thinking that would hinder, not help. Has anyone else spent any gray matter on this question?
  7. If there is power at the points when they are closed that is a problem The points contact to ground so either your points are baad or they are not closing all the way, That wire may be the issue but look carefully at the point operation. make sure nothing is sticking them, that they close firmly, and that there is space under the rub block at the low point of the cam.
  8. You are right Morgan. It was getting late! 😊
  9. Your cycling that you noticed in the fuel system is normal. It is the vacuum tank switching between suck mode - which shuts off the vent, and opens the line to the tank, and drain mode, where it blocks the fuel line and opens the vent line, effectively creating a vacuum leak to the manifold, The only thing you can do is possibly adjust the carb so that it runs a little crappy in both situations. LOL. No really, this is the way those tanks work.
  10. Yea, that sounds like a Buick now! Thanks for the video
  11. Good on the oil pump and good on the timing., so that leaves the carb. You already have lots of advice on that so i'm not going to add any.
  12. About that timing... I don't have a manual for this car but..I have a Dikes manual. 7 degrees is what they call for. Also, you state the rotor is right under the contact. Great but... what are the points doing? the points are the important part. In the picture the points look to be closed and if that is so it hasn't "fired" yet. so may be a lot later. You are supposed to be able to turn the rotor enough- just in the backlash of the gears -to open and close the points at the 7 deg mark. If not you need to advance the cam until that point. If it is all correct and there isn't too much slop in the linkages so the distributor housing turns properly, it should idle nice with the lever maybe 1/2 to 2/3 down the quadrant. It will not idle nice and will sound "heavy" if you do not advance the lever as soon as it starts. As to what Terry said, he is correct BUT... If the number one wire is above the rotor at 7 degrees, that is correct, even if the original position was different.
  13. It sounds like timing is way late but... it could be carb also. I would recheck the timing. Nemmine the manuals funny ways, Get it on TDC 1 and 6 with the lever in retard position and see that the points are just opening.
  14. I quite agree Mark, Run the current ones until all shims are gone. Now this comes from Chevy experience, but looking at the rods, they are spun babbit. Not poured. The factory learned they could spin the rod and pour the metal, having it forced outward by centrifugal force. This makes a nice job but is thinner than poured. When the shims are gone you are close to contacting the steel rod. And that is never good. (Especially on a splash lube Chevy.) Yes, there's a story.
  15. The Motor Auto repair manual says for the 8 cylinders 65-70 ft lbs for 7/16 bolts, or... if a "tension indicating wrench" is not available, the aforementioned 9 inch wrench. Seriously... I recommend 65 ft pounds.