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About Oldtech

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  • Birthday 01/02/1947

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  1. Not an expert on this model but I have seen cylinders that the washer goes in first to sort of seal the discharge valve that goes on the bottom of the spring,
  2. I don't know about the 5th valve business, To help Understand your engine a little better the 2 end cylinders on an inline engine travel together, and timing is always done with number 1, so, if the valve cover is off, watch #8 as you slowly turn the engine and at the point that the exhaust valve (the very back one is the exhaust) closes and the intake is about to open # 1 is on firing position. 8 is on the dead stroke between exhaust and intake and somewhere near the top. I don't know where the timing marks are on that engine but likely on the flywheel with a cover held by one screw.
  3. If you have no lights or anything the problem is either battery connections- quite likely, a bad cable - possible but not so likely, a loose connection. either on the big cable to the starter, or one of the ground straps. Power goes from the battery to the starter to everything else so check there first.
  4. I assume you will get a manual, but if you ever take the brake pistons apart the washer must go in with the gap to the top. Otherwise you can't bleed them. Long story from many years ago.
  5. Oldtech

    Mounting tires

    Hmmm. I just mounted 5 clinchers for the Ol Mclaughlin. Didn,t know about the garbage bag idea. might have tried it. Didn't have any problems though. Rims were powder coated so pretty tough. 2 of us did them all in 2 hrs. Re split rims or locking bead. Tire shops won't usually do them any more . I don't have a cage so just loop a chain around through the center on 2 sides, then inflate carefully, checking the lock as we go. never had an issue.
  6. Connections somewhere. Ground to engine, ground to frame, battery cable ends.
  7. Oldtech


    An L head engine doesn't need it. V8's with high rocker ratios and flat tappets like Olds, Caddy, and Studebaker do.
  8. First easy thing. Replace the grease nipple - or at least check that grease goes through it. 2. You may have to jack the car to get the weight off it. Can you run a drill bit down the hole? If none of those help is time to consider dismantling.
  9. Methinks you have to take the steering wheel off, disconnect everything then pull it down through the floorboards. You will need the front of the car raised quite a bit.
  10. Oldtech

    Mounting tires

    I do it all the time. Just be careful and make sure the tube is out of the way .
  11. Dykes says .001 for each inch diameter so .003 ( 3 thousandths). Cast iron pistons can be fairly tight as they don't expand a lot, so .003 would be plenty IMHO.
  12. Oldtech

    Mounting tires

    No flaps. They are only needed on split rims or some trucks. Mounting tires is often a do-it-yourself operation for us old car types. Some Modern tire shops don't like the idea.
  13. Just a Sec. your linings do look good and that contact plug is supposed to touch the drum at all times. It is the self adjuster. Studebaker was one of the first with self adjusting brakes. It looks like the right hand shoe might be a be a little worn but if the pedal is up, I would run those. If you have no pedal on a Stude it is often the self adjuster sticking. Also, you would have had to get that hub pretty hot to damage the seals, but while your in this far anyway, it's a good idea. You should, I think be able to get shoes from one of the Stude parts places.
  14. Yes, I THINK they use the same type pot metal pump.
  15. You have an early version 6 speed special. If the engine is free you can likely get it running fairly easily. these are pretty indestructible. It is a Waukesha XA engine. If you don't want to rebuild wooden wheels there were steel ones if you can find a set. Looks like a great project.
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