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Oldtech

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Everything posted by Oldtech

  1. It sounds like no impulse coupler , so the way to check the timing is remove the point cover and turn the engine to 1/4 DC . With the steering wheel spark control in the full retard position the points should just BARELY be opening. This is assuming the mag hasn't been off. If it has then you need to determine firing position on No. 1 and set the mag so the rotor gear is in that position before checking the points. Hope this helps.
  2. Looks like Master Buick 26-30 to me.
  3. Well that is a bit puzzling. Post this down in the post war Buick forum, lots of Dyna experts there. I'm mostly going by what is common to both Lo and Drive, which on this transmission is the converter, but I'm not a pro on this box.
  4. Easy questions first. The engine will likely run in all positions except PARK, but the IGN is the normal running position. The others work the lights. I expect this car has a vacuum tank for a fuel pump. You must take a plug out on top and put 1/2 litre of gas in the tank to get it running. Timing the magneto gets more complex and there are a couple of questions. Does it have an impulse coupling. As in, does it make a snap for each cylinder when you crank the engine. I expect it does, in which case you need to very slowly turn the engine and watch the timing mark. It should snap JUST AFTER the upper dead center mark. If no impulse coupling there's a different approach. What make of Magneto is it? A picture of the complete engine compartment may help.
  5. Cooler won't help. Suspect a torque converter issue if it is doing it in both L and D.
  6. I think that nut should be tight . It tightens on the outside threads, pivots on the inside.
  7. It's either a K or KB. I'm leaning to a K. 1941-46.
  8. I think you want them to open whenever the lights are switched on so the connection to the feed on the dimmer switch is the way to go. I wouldn't put another switch.
  9. If the door panel is shot anyway spray PB blaster or your favorite weapon in behind the estucheon to try and get it on the threads. Also on the handle shaft if the handle doesn't want to move. Give it a while and try loostening it. Getting these off in one piece can be a bit of a problem.
  10. There's a first. Never heard of swapping a plymouth into a large tractor. The carb adjustments are the main jet on the bottom - the screw with the pin through it. The screw at the top is the idle jet. Assuming... the carb is clean and in working order you should be able to get it running with the main jet maybe a turn and a half open. Then when the engine is warmed up a bit adjust it for best - as in smoothest and fastest at maybe 1200 rpm - what you might guess as 30 mph in an old Plymouth. If it sputters when you open the throttle, open it up a bit. If the engine"lopes" close it down. It's trial and error. The idle will be likely almost closed. Screw it down shut then open it maybe half a turn. experiment from there.
  11. The 180. It wont heat up any quicker but the higher temp is better for the engine.
  12. It shouldn't take much force. It should be relatively easy to pop the ends in place. You may need a small bottle jack and a couple of scraps of 2x4 to press it out. There used to be 2 kinds of tools for this. The 3 legged crank device and a simple handle system that went in the holes on the side of the rim so you could push it over. sorry I don't have a picture of the second one.
  13. Ok. I get it. I used kotter keys ha ha.
  14. I think the estucheon screws off and the handle comes with it.
  15. I believe that is correct that the plate just sits on the rivets. Tell us more about the 3 screws- I'm not seeing it. I'm not much help on aligning it as I have spare flywheel that I keep as an alignment tool for these clutches.
  16. You should have a tag on the firewall. But yes, the engine looks 50 series. Higher models have a pipe on top of the engine for the top radiator connection.
  17. Not a 41, they had a double chrome on the side. maybe a 40. But looking at the original picture, while not clear, it looks to me like exposed running boards. Champs had a small flare on the bottom of the door and running board looks narrow. But im not sure what i'm looking at on that pic for running board.
  18. Looking a bit harder... I think maybe it's a 40 Studebaker Commander.
  19. This is very puzzling. .004 is Plenty. Maybe too much. I'd be happy with .002. Your clearance chart from the post back in Nov. shows. .0005 to .0025. Not that that should kill it.
  20. First thoughts: either the bearing was too tight or there is an oiling problem. Is there an oil groove around the inside of the bushing?
  21. looking good. The holes on the gasket may not really be off. Some of those front parts are fitted to the engine and don't swap with another without mods.
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