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Oldtech

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Everything posted by Oldtech

  1. I would run that bearing unless you need a 100,000 mile engine. It's not burned and you're not racing it. Smooth it off and shim it correctly. No you don't need to rebalance. It should run a little smoother with the Aluminum Pistons.
  2. The heavy flywheel was to save shifting gears. You can slow to idle speed in 3rd and accelerate away smoothly. This was considered an asset.
  3. Those are strange looking pistons. Don't think they are Buick. Should be 3 rings on top, and a longer skirt. The pin is close to the bottom of your pistons going by your pictures. Perhaps the deck height is higher to get more compression.?? The offset or lack of it wouldn't matter. If it were me... and I could afford it - because they are expensive, I would order a nice new set of proper aluminum pistons from Egge Machine. Many engines used 4 ring pistons to control oil consumption. With modern rings, as you would get with new pistons, that is not an issue.
  4. We need a picture of the bearing. If the mains were re-babbitted be sure they cut the oil grooves around the center of the bearing. If they are flat the rods won't get enough oil.
  5. Yes, the plate number will be the the VIN on this car. There is some info on the web on these cars, some fresher than others. Here's one. https://www.langcollections.com/uncategorized/1928-mclaughlin-buick-royal-car/
  6. This may be of interest to a few of you, and I am sure it has been discussed before, but for anyone interested, here is a bit of info on Canadian Pontiacs. Canada had a 2 line dealer system in the post war years, split Chev Olds Cadillac and Pontiac Buick GMC. The other big 3 companies did this also. Chev, Olds, Cadillac and Buick were very much the same as the U.S. Cars. GMC was a Chevy truck with GMC grille until the larger ones which were the U.S. Models. PONTIAC was the line that had the most differences. I am not real familiar with the 30's cars. (before my time), but in the late 30's GM Canada made some cheapie Pontiacs on a Chevrolet chassis, with Chevrolet engines, a silver streak down the hood only, and a Pontiac styled dash and front grille. These carried through until 41-2?? After the war Pontiac carried on the idea of using Chevy bodies and chassis for the lower line cars (silver streak) but had the Pontiac 6 cyl engine. That these were basically Chevy chassis was obvious as there were 2 sets of mounting holes for the front engine mounts and a Chev engine would fit in these cars, though, as far as I know none were made with the Chev motor after the war. The 8 was not available in these cars, and the automatic was a powerglide. As the engine compartment was Chev sized there was no shroud either. This continued until 1954. If you wanted a Pontiac 8 you could get a U.S. version but you paid much more. In 1955 things changed a bit. The cars were built on Chev chassis with a Chevrolet motor, but with Pontiac styling. From 1955 until 1962 the 6 cylinder in the Pontiac was a car version of the 261 truck engine instead of the 235. these were very torquey and very popular. the 265, 283, 327, 348, and 409 were all offered in later Pontiacs as well as Chev. After 1963 the 6 cylinder was the Chevy 230 / 250 series. Styling series evolved to include the base Strato-Chief, the Laurentian, and the Parisienne. Things pretty much were done this way until the late 60's and the U.S. - Canada auto-Pact, which leveled the field between the countries and removed the need for a separate line of cars. The Parisienne name was carried on until the 80's and I believe was sold in the U.S. also. Again a Chevrolet based vehicle that had Pontiac styling.
  7. Ok you have my attention. I thought there were only 2 McLaughlin model 49's built in 28. (My memory isn't always a guarantee of anything though.) Is this one of the "known " cars? Records are incomplete as there were no 27-49's recorded in production, in the production records and I know of 5 that were built. Being RHD was it exported to Europe?
  8. Voltage regulator stuck.
  9. It sounds too me more like a wiring issue. You are correct on the dimmer. It switches between one terminal and the other. If you have one wire with 6 volts and none of the others in the dim position, where is the disconnect? Normally, in this age of car, at least here in Canada, the running or parking lights come on at the first click, and only the headlights on the second. Tail lights on all positions. Initial posts says park lights are used as signal lights. How is this accomplished. You cannot really use the single filament as both. It needs to be modified to take a dual filament bulb to work properly. That, or completely eliminate the park light function.
  10. Some Pontiacs are chevy size, some are bigger. The Canadian and the "Cheap" model should be the same. There is usually a bit extra of windlace so I would rate your chances as good that it will work.
  11. Oldtech

    1920 Buick

    I think a great reading would be about 17" mercury vacuum. you can play with the spark lever to get the max reading. But a nice steady reading is what you want, Not necessarily a number.
  12. What Joe said. On some cars it was only the ones with AC that had the return line, so both types of pump are available.
  13. We need more info on the problem. If no oil pressure it may just need priming . Squirt some oil in any connection ABOVE the pump and let it run in. then try it.
  14. Spark plug cover is usually missing because you can't get the shorty spark plugs needed to put it on.
  15. Yea, glad it runs. I would be inclined to just bypass that filter for now at least. You can't block the lines, you have to make a bypass.
  16. It sounds like the flasher is mis-wired alright.
  17. As Bob Stated, looks like the waterpump could use help. It looks like that radiator cap business is an aftermarket unit. They had a screw on cap that sealed pretty well. so you will have to make a gasket. When putting coolant in the radiator. only JUST cover the tubes. If you fill it full it will definitely spit coolant all over the place. I've never actually seen a 27 with a thermostat in that housing. some recommend making a restrictor plate with about a 20mm hole as the pump pushes a lot of water, If running fast on the highway.
  18. Yes, condenser is in the bottom of the coil. they are often still good. If you have good spark, be happy. If you must, the end of the coil can be taken off and the condenser disconnected.
  19. Not a MB tech but I assume it runs off trans tailshaft. Could there be a loose bearing combined with worn gears such that on coast, it engages the gear, and on acceleration moves away from it? All I can think of.
  20. After reading all this i'm leaning to a weak spark. If it's hard starting and no pull when you have your foot in it. Pull off a wire and see how far the spark will jump to ground. Minimum 1/4 inch. I agree with Terry. Try another coil and condenser.
  21. That float looks like it may have a leak. Take it out and shake it.
  22. Sounds like crumbs in the float valve. Like hchris says, probably stirred up a bunch of greebies letting the tank get empty then filling it. Final fix may be a good fuel system cleaning. Tank, lines, and carb. There is an oldtimers fix Temporary, but may show what's going on, and that is to disconnect the carb and block the line, then run the engine until it runs out of fuel, then connect up the carb again. This will often flush the needle valve and get rid of whatever is in there.
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