Oldtech

First: does the starter motor on the Gen winding when you turn on the ignition? If not you likely have a wire off someplace. Second: pop the cover off - the one beside the distributor and take a look in there. It may be obvious.

Looks to me like a great place for a ground strap.😁

If you can't get the rate down I would be suspicious of the thermostat business. IF that isn't opening up it WILL charge too high. I don't really have any suggestions how to check it except that the points aren't stuck and the heater winding is good. Someone may have a document....

Second one is a Model T Ford. maybe 24ish.

Yes, that should be ok. The idea of the second wire was to bypass the resistor wire when the switch is in start position and provide full 12 to the coil for starting. The only reason for doubling up is if the resistor wire connection is opened in the start position. You could check that with a meter. If it has solid connection you likely don't need the second one.

Thank you!! That is enormously helpful. You indicate the resistor wire needs to be replaced by a solid copper wire. I had already wired in a 16ga wire just in case I needed something there, but it is stranded -- do I need to change that out with a solid wire or do you think the stranded is sufficient? Stranded is fine. He means NOT a resistor wire.

I would have put money on the engine mounts but you covered that. When you say glazed on the outside do you mean the outer part of the plate?

Thanks. I'm sort of familiar with the Buick setup. Didn't think of Caddy using it.

Reading your description I'm not sure about that wire to the GEN connector on the regulator. If this is correct what does it do? Anyone?

Ignition timing is going to depend on whether it has a working mechanical advance and what it's range of advance is. The engine may be setup to use a manual retard lever for starting. If so, set it to the retard position (direction of rotor rotation) In either case best to start by having engine on #1 TDC and set it so the points open JUST after TDC. Mark it! Once it is running you can time it by "ear" by setting the engine running 1200-1500 RPM and turning the distributor to the point of highest speed, then retard until you can just barely notice it slowing. Now you know start and run settings. Hopefully they will be the same. If starting with a hand crank it is VERY important that the initial timing not be before TDC. I like Rusty's valve clearance numbers

Nope! not Anglia.

Some brake kleen should take care of the grease

I know this is thread creep but Terje, did you ever find out any early history on your car as it seems 27-49 Mclaughlins were special order.

I think Dexron for everything is fine when you are starting with a clean box. If you are needing larger parts like a valve body it might be easier / cheaper to find another core transmission. Then you have lots of parts. A C4 is a fairly simple trans to rebuild.

Re thickness: The internal one. ( Handbrake) specifies 5/32 thickness which you probably can't get. the outer is likely 3/16 which you can get from Mcmaster-Carr and likely others. If you are fortunate there MAY be room for 3/16 on the inside but you will likely have to do some creative grinding.

To the rear axle question. No. The rear in the 25 is a smaller version with Hyatt roller bearings in the wheels, and a 2 gear diff. It was discontinued after 28?? maybe.

OOps... never even thought of that!😡

Basic plan is ok. What does it have for a water pump? they are notorious for sticking, and even if they don't stick you will likely damage the packing cranking it, so if possible disconnect it, or at least lubricate it before spinning it over. Yes, take an oil can and oil everything that moves in the valve mechanism. Especially the valve stems.

I Took the Speedo for the 17 McLaughlin apart. It is in very good condition but needs cleaning. Is there a solution i can use in the ultrasonic to clean it that won't damage the numbers? I can varsol the drive parts.

Likely power comes first to the amp meter then to the switch and everywhere else, But yes, a diagram is needed.

If your carb heat riser isn't working you may have had carb ice. that will stall the car, but have nothing to do with fuel delivery to the carb, Unless you have water in the fuel.

Goes to show that old cars are in the genes!

Pintle hitch for a truck!

As I recall the brushes are in the end cap. if the cap is installed incorrectly, i.e 1/4 turn out, wouldn't this cause reverse rotation. Just a thought

Is the wheel bearing loose - allowing the wheel to pull in a bit binding the brake?