Oldtech

I figure one should start with varnish. You can always paint them later. If you paint now it's hard to go back. I like the varnished look anyway.

That's better. IMHO use it for a trailer. The wheels have been cut down and 16" rims fitted. Looks like later 20's from the thickness of the spokes and looks like it had front wheel brakes.

Torque tube. No rear Universal. Is the u joint assembled or split? Normally you split the u joint to remove the rear or trans.

1931 What Coupe?

YES, It is a door catch that screws onto the pillar. Looks maybe late 20,s or 30's but I can't tell you what vehicle.

The small screw above the line connector with the hole in it is the bleed screw. Get it loostened up, then have dad step on the pedal and open the screw. Close it BEFORE you let the pedal up. I always go closest wheel to farthest but there's debates on that on here. BTW put that copper washer/gasket back where it belongs. Likely the line coupling bolt.

Juat looking at the engine I don't see a problem with leaving them open. Otherwise you only have the small holes front and back on that side. If the gaskets came from Olsons you could ask them why they are that way. Maybe they know.

The wheels tell me it's a late 20's. Body apears to be by fire engine builder.

Lahti35 has 2 good points. A third is how much blowby does the engine have and is the vent for the crankshaft clear? Crankcase pressure will make them leak no matter how tight the mechanicals.

Are the cables possibly adjusted too tight and pulling a little on the release?

I think you mean the support (L) not the king pin?

It sounds like no impulse coupler , so the way to check the timing is remove the point cover and turn the engine to 1/4 DC . With the steering wheel spark control in the full retard position the points should just BARELY be opening. This is assuming the mag hasn't been off. If it has then you need to determine firing position on No. 1 and set the mag so the rotor gear is in that position before checking the points. Hope this helps.

Looks like Master Buick 26-30 to me.

Well that is a bit puzzling. Post this down in the post war Buick forum, lots of Dyna experts there. I'm mostly going by what is common to both Lo and Drive, which on this transmission is the converter, but I'm not a pro on this box.

Easy questions first. The engine will likely run in all positions except PARK, but the IGN is the normal running position. The others work the lights. I expect this car has a vacuum tank for a fuel pump. You must take a plug out on top and put 1/2 litre of gas in the tank to get it running. Timing the magneto gets more complex and there are a couple of questions. Does it have an impulse coupling. As in, does it make a snap for each cylinder when you crank the engine. I expect it does, in which case you need to very slowly turn the engine and watch the timing mark. It should snap JUST AFTER the upper dead center mark. If no impulse coupling there's a different approach. What make of Magneto is it? A picture of the complete engine compartment may help.

Cooler won't help. Suspect a torque converter issue if it is doing it in both L and D.

I think that nut should be tight . It tightens on the outside threads, pivots on the inside.

Chilton repair manual.

55-60 ft pounds.

It's either a K or KB. I'm leaning to a K. 1941-46.

I think you want them to open whenever the lights are switched on so the connection to the feed on the dimmer switch is the way to go. I wouldn't put another switch.

If the door panel is shot anyway spray PB blaster or your favorite weapon in behind the estucheon to try and get it on the threads. Also on the handle shaft if the handle doesn't want to move. Give it a while and try loostening it. Getting these off in one piece can be a bit of a problem.

There's a first. Never heard of swapping a plymouth into a large tractor. The carb adjustments are the main jet on the bottom - the screw with the pin through it. The screw at the top is the idle jet. Assuming... the carb is clean and in working order you should be able to get it running with the main jet maybe a turn and a half open. Then when the engine is warmed up a bit adjust it for best - as in smoothest and fastest at maybe 1200 rpm - what you might guess as 30 mph in an old Plymouth. If it sputters when you open the throttle, open it up a bit. If the engine"lopes" close it down. It's trial and error. The idle will be likely almost closed. Screw it down shut then open it maybe half a turn. experiment from there.

The 180. It wont heat up any quicker but the higher temp is better for the engine.

It shouldn't take much force. It should be relatively easy to pop the ends in place. You may need a small bottle jack and a couple of scraps of 2x4 to press it out. There used to be 2 kinds of tools for this. The 3 legged crank device and a simple handle system that went in the holes on the side of the rim so you could push it over. sorry I don't have a picture of the second one.