Oldtech

The REC is for recirculate, as opposed to fresh air. Shuts off the outside air intake. Doesn't look Gm to me.

Base out. so the fluid goes back to the bottom.

Quote: If you are going to "drive the problem" out of the car, you need an additive that works on sticking rings. Lots of snake oil out there. Not sure what is better than another. Just put a cupful of ATF in the gas tank with at least a half full tank and see what happens .

I would definitely give it a good hone job and a new set of rings.

This should be an ordinary engine to rebuild as it is all shell bearings. The main issue will be finding parts.

What ring is broken? A top one? . Do the rings look new are are they worn? Put one in a cylinder and push the piston in to make it square, and push it down below the nrmal ring travel, then measure the gap with a feeler gage. Original gap would likely be in the .010 to .012 range so... if you now have .030 gap, subtract the .010 means it is worn .020 divide by 3.14 or .006. That I would replace. I would only reuse them if they are almost new. Others will have other ideas i'm sure. The second thing is why it broke. Do you have a ridge reamer? There may be enough ridge on the cylinder to break it. Any piston damage?

Check the valve clearance first. Valve(s) may be being held open.

I would call it a buggy wrench.

I agree not T.

The exhaust angle is different on the later one. It will fit, as far as fit goes but you have to modify the ex pipe.

Agreed. 49 or 50

The tank originally mounted on the engine manifold. I never thought that was the best place 'cause of the heat. Later they mounted on the firewall. Depending what you want for originality, there should be brackets for both.

Could be for a combine or tractor. Look like the ones on Father's ol' Massey 21.

Check the spark at the plug. Pull a wire off and situate it 1/4 inch from a headbolt and have someone spin the engine. You should get a good spark every 2 revolutions. Set the timing so that with the spark lever retarded, the points open just at, or slightly after TDC.

Have you rotated the crank slowly as you spun the pump to see if there is holes that have to aligh in the bearing? Back in the 60's oil flow to rockers semed to be an afterthought. As long as they were wet, that was good. They used to say that you could adjust the valves on a 55 Olds with the engine running and your white shirt on! 1400 is more than adequate RPM. That's 2800 crank. 70 mph

Could be Idle circuit in carb plugged too. But Check for vacuum leaks first. What engine are we talking here?

Actually...My reason for installing the distributor was that you need it to drive the oil pump if you are cranking the engine. Didn't even think of the galley.

M-Mman describes the conundrum exactly. I am just telling you what has worked for me in the past. You need to assess your engine and see what condition everything is in, and go from there. I'm just suggesting the parts most likely to need replacement .

I suspect . ABear that you are right. There is also, I think, A special necked down headbolt that goes in that location to allow oil up to the rocker shaft. The later sixes had the grooved bearing that provided full time flow to the rockers. At any rate, put the distributor in and spin the engine with the starter and see what happens before you start pulling things apart.

Re the ring set. I agree that cast rings are appropriate for this job, and would be my first choice, but I wouldn't be concerned about putting chrome ones in either. If you hone the cylinders enough to get the crosshatch pattern desired (30-45 degrees) you should be fine. Also, some makers suggest doing a 25-60 mph acceleration fairly hard about 10 times to seat the rings. I'm not crazy about it but have done it and it seems to work. But if we get into a break-in discussion everyone has an opinion. If this was my little project I would: 1. Take the heads to the engine shop and get them "done" 2. Assuming no other issues, hone and new ringss 3. Replace the rod shells. even if the mains aren't . And, of course new seals all around.

Yes on the POR 15 needing a topcoat if it sees the sun at all. Makes a good durable finish then.

looks like the sight glass on the Air Cond works. If that's missing the AC isn't working but doesn't affect the engine.

I wouldn't be concerned about the valve color if there are no other obvious issues. Things like variations in mixture between cylinders can make a difference. Old engines often had uneven fuel distribution.

To get the valve out I would try to get the head in a press and press it out. If the engine has press in guides the complete guide may come out but that's ok. Soak it well in PBBlaster or something for a while before attempting.