Oldtech

I expect they were different... but I don't have a 27 parts book.

Regarding the 12 volt battery, what are they using for a generator? If it is an alternator then it has to be Negative ground unless they got a special one. (doubtful) If a generator is it marked 12 volts or ?. Also the regulator may be marked pos ground if it is a Chrysler type or is it a later version unmarked? It must be somewhat correct if it did 100 miles with no problems. Don't reverse it until you know what they did or didn't do? Also... do the gages all work right? there may be a solid state converter somewhere that you will fry if you just reverse the polarity.

Bump: Did you ever get to the bottom of this?

Canadian McLaughlin with the Mahogany dash.

Not sure everyone is reading your symptoms correctly. I understand that you loose all ELECTRICAL power. You could have a defective new cable, but more likely there is a connection loose on the solenoid or the ground side of affairs. Is the engine grounded to the body? There should be a strap somewhere to ensure that. Is your ground wire to the motor or the body?

Very cool piece. Pretty sure it's not automotive, but don't know what it is. Maybe try Smokstak?

My but the Nash and Oakland are very similar looking. I can't find an exact match either. I was looking at the 5 bolt hubs and discs as being Nash features. I know wheels can be changes tho.

Looks like Ford 9N tractor.

Looks Nash to me too!

If you do that the one in the distributor will last forever!

Module or Rotor. The Rotor can Puncture through under the tab effectively grounding out the spark. Early white ones probably the worst. It can also be a broken wire from the pickup unit. They flex with the vacuum advance and will break inside the insulation.

You are correct. The spring hub was toward the flywheel and the flywheel bolts were against the hub. Nothing worked.

What exactly is the issue? no light at all or just no flash. Get your test light and see that there is power to the flasher when the turn is selected. If yes, apply power to the other connections and see what lights - or doesn't.

Nice. If it were me I would still put a stick under the front when I put the cylinder head on.

Looks nice in there. Sure hope it's just the gasket.

1924 ish?

Springs are ok and plate is resurfaced. Sumbuddy !#$ put it together wrong (Plate in backwards for one) and now a finger is bent. also had to do some buildup on the pressure washer that these have on the fingers.

Nash used this exhaust design on the old flatheads too if I remember. I always thought that there was little thought put into this!

I don't think you would have any spark if it wasn't turning. As Pete says. Your problem should be in the cap or rotor. The Carbon brush in the center is a possibility, as is a "crack" (Spark arc line) in the cap to send the spark to the wrong place. A rotor that has an arc through to the shaft could be another idea. Good Luck.

I know Model T discussions can go on forever. It seems to me that the Ford bodied cars had the headlight bar, the bodies made by Wilson didn't. But I'm not an expert.

Can't help with the question but if I lived there I'd be over helping you with it!

26 or 27 T with wire wheels. likely 27. Wires were optional in 26, standard in 27...I think

The leaks look gnarly. You should pull the head and check it out. You could have a rust out ( bad) or Just the gasket. Definitely standard engine.

I posted this in Stude but no answers coming. Would like info on adjusting the pressure plate fingers and what is Installed height Car is a 33 Dictator. New clutch and recon pressure plate but fingers very uneven.

What year car ? Does the dist turn if you twist on it?