Oldtech

I very quickly lost patience with the oversize heads and odd often crooked hardware on my McLaughlin and decided to go with modern hardware everywhere. Exception being a few places where slotted screws are obvious. The original type are expensive and very difficult to find here in Can. Slotted screw hardware is almost non existent.

Are you getting it re-bored? If not, and bores are worn a bit tapered, the clearance applies to the bottom of the bore. Top will be much looser. And I wouldn't bore it for .005 wear. .010 yes. for all the miles it will get. In my poorer youth I have re-ringed engines with maybe .015 taper and had good results for maybe 30,000 miles. These were engines from 50's and 60's I don't remember excessive noise. Don't think you could get away with that with a new one!

No. This is a 2 pole Mag so would have to run double crank speed on an 8 cylinder.

There are 2 different length links in the Chevy world. The threaded one with the curve. I don't know which is for what but you obviously need the longer one.

Like Ed Says. The Exhaust manifold is the only hot spot. Protect that and you will be ok.

This will have the rather ugly system where it is not really a flex plate. It is the front of the fluid coupling. More like a flywheel.

Can't help with parts but check out Mark Kitka's post down 6 pages in Pre-war Buick. He has a wonderfully detailed post on building the top.

Is it wired correctly? Power from starter to switch to coil? Is it a regular coil or the armored cacle?

I think 23-4 Nash

I would agree. The side the slot is offset toward? ( Ya , Bad English)

Ahhh. There's an explanation!.

No rollers. The 4 cylinders just used a plain lifter in a bore in the block at first, Then they went to the better type which has a smaller lifter in an expandable sleeve as the pic above sort-of shows. I would like to know if this was a running change, or a later retrofit to solve the leak issue.

If it is a Splasher there is a small cover plate behind the exhaust pipes on the left side of the engine. This cover will be held on by 2 stove-bolts - originally. If not there it's a pressure engine.

Your observations are correct ign is disconnected by the switch. Unless your switch assembly has been messed with it should work as per diagram.

What Model is your car D or E or? Mark's hood looks newer than 18. Here is 17 D-35 hood.

Case used that timing system.

Standard Not master. Master had full floating axle with ball bearing.

Chilton Says: Engine number on front of block above water pump. Serial number on plate on end of floorboard inside right front door til 46. Then on left front door pillar (hinge pillar

265 has a bore of 3 3/4. 283's were 3 7/8. That will tell the story.

What is the part with the crack that we are seeing? looks like the end of an axle. Could the pin actually be 2 pins, one in from each side?

Sorry Morgan. The question is on a 4 cylinder D-35. Irving: What is it you actually need? one or 2 or a set, and which type is on the engine? I have some of the type pictured but they are badly worn. Have an E 35 engine that has the later ones but lay outside for ever. Would have to see if they are salvageable.

The CD denotes a 1957 265 according to Chilton. If it is a 283 it does NOT have C, Cd, or CE on the end. Cant help with the FB.

I'm thinking tractor, but what? Gear does look T-ish though

Let me check.

I replied to your post in Technical. You can use the later ones if these are too badly worn. They tighten in the bores. the pushrods are a bit shorter.