Oldtech

265 has a bore of 3 3/4. 283's were 3 7/8. That will tell the story.

What is the part with the crack that we are seeing? looks like the end of an axle. Could the pin actually be 2 pins, one in from each side?

Sorry Morgan. The question is on a 4 cylinder D-35. Irving: What is it you actually need? one or 2 or a set, and which type is on the engine? I have some of the type pictured but they are badly worn. Have an E 35 engine that has the later ones but lay outside for ever. Would have to see if they are salvageable.

The CD denotes a 1957 265 according to Chilton. If it is a 283 it does NOT have C, Cd, or CE on the end. Cant help with the FB.

I'm thinking tractor, but what? Gear does look T-ish though

Let me check.

I replied to your post in Technical. You can use the later ones if these are too badly worn. They tighten in the bores. the pushrods are a bit shorter.

Was wondering about the springs too, but still think my best guess is 1916 ish Maxwell. They had a cone clutch but used the "cast on engine" clutch housing with the relatively flat Aluminum trans front like this has. The generator drive has me a bit puzzled - looks more Dodge type but I don't know them all. Manifold definitely looks Maxwellian

Post us a picture.

There are 2 styles of lifter. That is the early version. It just ran in the bore with nothing to stop oil coming out and dirt in. The ones you have i assume are the second, read improved ones. They fit in the same bore as the one pictured so were likely an available upgrade.

I think what you are looking at is their idea of overcurrent protection. If the load gets too high the magnet pulls the contacts open and it starts buzzing. These were commonly bypased if they gave issues, so check your wiring diagram. There is no cutout. The ignition switch puts the power to the s/g to motor it, and therby connects the generator. IT only disconnects it when you shut it off.

It would have to go in the way it is pictured i think, but I'm wondering if this isn't an aftermarket mileage increasing gizmo. Anyone else met this?

My reference to heat is only as a last resort and only if you are discarding the hub as it will warp. Only saying this 'cause we had a 59 Plymouth once that defied all other means.

I'm going to disagree. The subject picture appears to have an intake manifold outboard the exhaust one, and the dodge has the intake cast in the block - carb on drivers side. Also... the generator drive on the left side is different. Maxwell just had a pulley with a shaft and bearing to the starter/generator on that side. Dodge had the gen mounted on the timing cover. The headlight, however doesn't fit my idea of a Maxwell, but I don't know them all. So... I'm open to other ideas

I'm just up the road from you near N.B.

Not much of a Saxon expert but my Father used to refer to the "Saxon Super Six". It looks like a longer hood and with 6 bolt rim clamps looks like a larger car.

We would need a few more pictures. I was going by the exhaust manifold looking like it comes above ports and what could be a magneto shelf on the passengers side.

Maxwell maybe?

Yes, the Hudson needed the fluid to work properly. It looks like the one 37s2de pictured was let run dry.

Gotcha! We were all wondering about the free drum, not a normal Mopar feature. As far as getting that hub off all the puller advice goes - as in Jack M's post, and they can be a bear. A bit of heat may be in order. If you are not reusing that hub, maybe a lot.

I would suspect driveline - universal joints first.

Rears are addressed towards the end of the video.

Do you have any sort of a picture? Someone may recognize a similar part from somewhere.

Okay!

To tweak it little... 39 Buick, 38 Chevy, and 36 Plymouth. next...