Oldtech

I think the spring hooks into the "little divot" These things aren't user friendly. Good advise above. They USED to sell funny shaped prybars for this job.

A picture from a bit farther back would let us know better what you have. I THINK this is a solenoid with a relay in it. if so, One of the small terminals is power, the other ground. If you can , take a test light and have someone press the starter button. There should be power to one of the small wires when the button is depressed. If it lights, problem is in the starter. If no light you will have to look for switch or wiring problem. Touching the power to the small terminal from the battery cable should make it run, but I can't tell you which wire that is from the picture.

Looks to me like the face of some of the valves, I think intakes, is quite worn. Egge's valves should be just fine. Those look like original valves. If you are willing to spend the dough I would get new valves, then have an engine shop do the head. Depends how much you plan to run it. I have made some pretty bad valves work - for a while.

Don't know what the point gap is sposed to be but they look too wide.

It's just a straight axle isn't it.

No, but there is a problem knowing the answer. Can you post a pic of the timing cover? 29 didn't have a seal, just a slinger 30 early may be same. Is it a harmonic balancer or just a pulley?

Yes, compression sounds low, even for a PA. should be more like 60 ish. How fresh is the gas?

The way that they work is it is supposed to "motor" slowly on the gen winding, then when you step on the pedal the rod inside picks a brush off the gen commutator, then lowers one onto the starter commutator. There are no Contacts as such. It's easy to pop the cover off beside the distributor and have a look in there. The brushes are readily removable with the starter in place. If you need to remove it there is a coverplate to remove from the side of the flywheel housing to expose the drive gears just left of the starter. The water pump shaft is connected with an oldham coupling which should just fall out when you swing the unit out. Caution. It weighs about 60 lbs. Be sure the engine turns freely If it hasn't been turned/run lately check the water pump. They like to stick when sitting with no coolant. There should be a crank under the front seat. Use it to check motor function.

Learn something new every day. Thought they always had double springs. It would appear though that the intake valves had a pin ? instead of a keeper to that number.

Being a lot of the springs were upside down I suspect someone threw this head together just to make it run.

Oh. Original post says Roadmaster so assumed Master. 27 is a standard series but they still have dual springs. Made MANY miles in our 27-27 when a kid. Still have the remains.

Broken lock washers on old engines is standard equipment. Exactly. I don;t have a picture but they are just a smaller coil that fits inside the big spring.

Are the washers in the other post the ones above the lifters, or the valve keepers?

From what I can tell it looks pretty fair. The valve springs are s'posed to go on with the tight coils to the head. My question is... these originally had dual valve springs so am wondering if the springs are not original. . If they are the original outers they won't be strong enough by themselves. Spring pressure is supposed to be 49 to 61 lbs closed, 120-136 open.

The glass filler is quite strong and a bear to sand. If you can groove it out you may get an acceptable repair. Finish with regular light filler.

Happy New Year to all. Many miles on your cars in 2024.

Is it kicking back on the starter at all when it cranks? if it is, check firing order, wires for cross firing, and timing

Valve adjustment?? not enough clearance.

My advice on setting the throttle butterflies is wrong for this carb. Ignore!. As usual Carb King knows!!

That is the dimmer switch. Hi-lo beams was on the wheel.

You loosen the screws holding the butterflies, make sure all idle screws are backed off and wiggle the shaft until both are firmly seated closed, then tighten the screws.

You may have to pull the carb and check that the throttle plates are actually closing all the way. If it was overhauled and someone had the shaft out they may have got the butterflys in upside down or not quite aligned. Of course, that is after all external possibilities have been checked. The fast idle, as mentioned, also that the pedal linkage or hand throttle is not pulling it up slightly.

Some engines DO have springs that go one way, but I take it the ol' flathead doesn't matter. If there are more compressed turns at one end that end goes towards the non moving end.

I've done a lot of valves. Got 90%. The one I missed was 5.

A lot of cars were just getting counterbalanced cranks around 7-8. Buick sixes in 27