Tonz

Thanks for all the replies, so it seems I was pretty well on the ball with just wear my motorcycing gear and temporary plastic seat cover and enjoy the experience. Footnote, had a great weekend and did avoid the rain by a few hours.

I've had my 1926 Chrysler 50 on the road for a couple of years and with the open sides I have carefully avoided driving in rain. The side skirts will happen eventually. So with a fixed canvas roof and no sides, I am faced with a much looked forward to run with weather forecasts of rain. Can anyone relate what to expect. I'm thinking of plastic seat covers and wearing my motorcycle wets. I have adapted a stubby holder over the dizzy to keep it dry. Looking forward to hearing your wet experiences 😆

I don't know about your level of experience with vintage cars, but long term you have to intimately know pretty well every aspect of what makes a 100 year old car tick. I doubt if any of my "non vintage car enthusiast" family or friends would be able to start my old car yet even drive it. Time to get down to the basics and learn about your new car. Also lookout for attempts by inexperienced modern mechanics to work on this car ... Such as the 12v battery.

Ok, to retrack to the original question! Talking about auto fuses! I've owned 6volt and 12volt cars and bikes for decades and have completely built harnesses and wired cars and bikes from scratch. These vehicles have never had electrical failure or even blown fuses. Probably because I never use crimp joints, everything is soldered and shrink wrapped. Not being a qualified house or auto electrician scientific expert . .. common sense prevails. 10amp for light duty circuits, 20 for high demand circuits. This brings me back to a famous quote from an old POMMY bike magazine... "All bike wires are full of blue smoke. If the blue smoke escapes it won't go anymore"

You are fortunate to still have the plate and the actual serial number. Mine was missing/destroyed probably from trying to remove. I believe they were designed to be tamper proof and brittle thus deliberately self destructing. My only solution was to legally assume the engine number and copper etch a replica. Maybe the best treatment would be to just clean it up and leave it alone.

I do a bit of welding for my self and am definately not a professional. But I've somehow had great success with cast iron. Many years ago I read and interesting 1940s article on welding broken cast spoke wheels on prewar agricultural machinery. These guys had to fix their own stuff. The gist was heating the part are the right spots to expand the iron before the welding and a long slow cooling. Years later when it was playing with my home made steam engine we broke the flywheel when pushing in the centre boss. So I decided to use my stick welder with normal rods to fix it. so I took the plates off my gas BBQ and heated it on max to about 300°C for 30 minutes, then did the welds. While still hot I gently peened the welds with a light hammer to stop crystallisation, covered and wrapped, or bury in deep sand overnight. As the photos show it's still good today. this could also work on an iron manifold. I would find a junk item to experiment on.

Yes, you can repair them successfully... As long as you have no intention of driving with them! My 26 Chrysler 50 with rear brakes only still had the original wheels when I got going. The rears do the drive and braking so are under more loading than the fronts, obviously they were not safe, as matter of fact one rear wheel went dangerously wobbly after 10 miles. Luckily a guy named Keith Wilson who lives in the next town 40 minutes away specialises in wooden wheels and roof bows. So I bit the bullet and had the four wheels done with new cup bolts and now drive the car feeling a much safer.

Hi all, I have been clocking up quiet a few miles on my 26 Chrysler 50 and as a rolling resto things are getting better step by step. Recent I had the wheels respoked thanks to the talented Keith Wilson of Allora Qld. and this made a huge difference to the cars driveabilty. The next project in my sights is the have the kingpins reconditioned. This will happen soon and once again i am expecting a nice improvement. One issue I can't figure out is how this car pulls smoothly up hills with clear vision in the rear views, but on the down hills it's all shake, rattle and roll. I did a bit of a test on the weekend and whilst rolling down a long hill I disengaged the clutch for a few seconds, and let the revs off and all came smooth again. To me this indicates that everything on the rolling chassis is ok up to the clutch. My car has the solid mount four with flexi couplings on the tailshaft. I did replace these with the 12mm red polyurethane which i reckon was as "flexi" as the originals. with two up front and three at the back. So i was considering replacing one disc with a spacer to give a bit more flex in the system for smoothness. Any experienced thoughts will be great appreciated. PS, if anyone says "they all do that" I will be happy. Cheers

In AU eBay has changed a bit over the last couple of years, it's search engine is now weaker, but this is overcome by using Google to do the same search then look for the same item in eBay. On another note ... prices/postage/arrive by: Online sales for generic auto spares are now getting dearer than your local autoparts store. Word has it that eBay etc and their online stores decided that they have killed off your local stores and they can now be greedy and jack up their prices. On a recent motorcycle service job I did a price check of various items on eBay but decided I couldn't wait 2 weeks for them, so went to the local bike shop and was surprised to find the same bits were 30% cheap in store. Go figure 🤔

Hi all. Probably an possible task, but i'm looking for one more 26 Chrysler emblem bezel! My model 50 has the them on the headlights and taillight, and now I've acquired a pair of cowl lamps missing one bezel and clip plus the two lenses. They measure 7cm (2 3/4") across. The thought of having the comply set has got me on a mission. Please let me know of you can help out Thanks

Hi all, this Ross steering column and box turned up with all my Chrysler 50 parts. My Chrysler uses the Gema box. It seems fairly solid and complete with drop arm, clum switch and column. Up to the steering wheel mount. I you recognise it please enlighten me. I hope to pass it onto someone who needs it. Thanks

Hi all, yes I do have some 4cyl starters and bit and pieces, I'm located in SE Queensland AU, and happy to help out any locals but i don't think postage on heavy stuff is worth while.

I've heard that Massey Harris started off with Chrysler 6 and 4 motors. Which makes perfect sense when I drive my model 50 Chrysler.

I'm not a scientist (tho my brother is) so having lived with the adage "a little bit of knowledge is dangerous" I did some research on the thermal properties of water using school student science study books that are basic, factual and easily digested. *Talking pure water here, not coolant, not pressurised. *4°C or 39°F is where water reacts in a unique way. Skipping all the scientific crap: On cooling, water contracts until 4° Celsius. Below that, it expands slightly until freezes then it expands about 9%. This is why water inside your engine's water galleys in winter is not good. On heating water from room temp to just below boiling it expands about 4%. This is why a your radiator with about 10 litres of water will purge about half a litre of water at operation temp. Now for the climate activists, 4°C is the magic number for water where expansion is not on a linear scale, but sudden. So you can see why ocean levels drop and rise. One other little thing is as it continues to get colder and freezes it suddenly expands by 9%, thus ice floats (not sinks and stays on the bottom of the oceans forever) hence the reason there is life on the planet 🤔 Personally, I do prefer my air cooled motorcycles where all this freezing and boiling stuff is to do with rider comfort😆

Thanks for the related replies about thermosyphon non pressurised systems. (It's hard keeping topics on the original subject) Sounds like my Chrysler 50 is running temps as it should. In my region winter does freeze engine blocks, I've seen a Velocette LE motorcycle break off one of the opposing water cooled cylinders in on a frosty morning. So I'm going 50/50, green coloured coolant ... Which is correct for iron block engines. As our winter is approaching I expect to see a 10° drop on the temp gauge. And the heat of the engine through the floor will be welcome.