Oldtech

Yes, that looks correct. Thanks.

Great, Thank you. Learn something new every day.

I'm likely too late with any advice but... If you end up removing the carrier MARK the big bearing adjusters with a punch before removing. You will be able to get them within a turn, and the punch marks give you the original position to adjust from. ( hopefully this shouldn't need to be done). The pinion shaft lock screw only comes right out if you remove the right bearing cap, but as Bloo pointed out, the pin is out and that's all that matters. You should be able to unscrew the nut by holding the side gear as the stub of the axle is splined to it.

Here's an upside down picture.

I had decided it wasn't Ford. Got a year?

Can anyone identify this "rear tub" from a touring car. It is a smaller one and the seats were leatherette, not real leather. Strange feature is the corner pieces are separate parts so mad in 5 pieces instead of the usual three. So I'm thinking cheaper car.

That looks like a fun place to visit. Do you have any other pics of that first car?

Some vehicles of this era just had a float and a wire or gage to indicate engine oil level. I know Studebaker had this in the 20's

First, try "jumping" the solenoid on the starter to make sure the starter works. Best if you have a test switch but can be done with a jumper. make sure it is in park. you don't need the switch on. Connect the small wire to the power wire an it should spin. If unsure find a friend! If this works then a test light is the easiest way to check the switch. I don't know wrangler design of that year but often the switch only asks the computer to start the engine. 🤔

Check if there is ANY fluid in it. Filling it up may give you enough brakes for around the yard. it may not work, and I'm sure in the longer term you are doing a complete brake overhaul anyway. It is a pretty standard hydraulic brake system.

If it's like the earlier sixes, the small car (standard) uses Hyatt bearings. Masters are ball bearings with full floating axle.

You need to check the basics like the throttle linkage and choke, but I suspect you have a vacuum leak, likely the power brake circuit by what you are describing. If the choke remained on fast idle you might have this problem, but the fact that the brake doesn't seem to stop it make me think there's a problem there. What happens when you just start the engine and let it run. Does it speed up more than it should?

Starting with the easy ones, a 55 Ford soft drink truck, followed by a 58 Pontiac. Then a 56 Chevy. The one beside the VW is a 50-ish Ford. From the right looks like a 60 Chevy impala convert under the tree. I think that's an Olds 54? second behind the convertible. Coming at us across the street looks like maybe a 59 Chev on the curb and a 55 in the inside lane. Don't know what the 2 smaller cars are on the right.

I'm wondering what the second one is. Did someone have a starter switch bypassing the button start? I think that I would get another solenoid. They should be available from Summit racing and the like. Maybe even NAPA

Check the section on troubleshooting the ignition system, if there is one. Yes, you must check for spark. Pull the coil wire out of the center of the distributor and hold it, Preferably with insulated pliers, about 1/4 inch from grounded metal and have someone run the starter. You should get a regular, nice spark. If you do not the first things to check are 1. power at the + terminal of the coil. 2. points opening and closing properly and making contact. 3. Wires. not touching what they shouldn't and good connections where they should. If nothing appears out of place , try replacing the condenser. They can cause bizarre issues.

T looks like a 26-7 version.

I believe that un-connected wire with the ring terminal is the one that goes on the battery side of the solenoid to power the rest of the car. Touch it to the cable first and check for sparks in case there is a short someplace.

Agree.

Usually... if they suddenly start doing this it is because the float has sprung a leak and sunk. The orifice shown in Hubert's picture is s'posed to limit the amount of fuel it will actually suck. If it is missing it will all work fine until there is a float or other overfill issue. I've never heard of them "splashing over".

Hi Terry, I've been following the story of this car with great interest. The only thing you can adjust is the 3 springs on the spider to get them even. BUT... i suspect that if you can put a spacer on top of the expander springs so they don't press the leather up as far, it will improve things. Had to do that on my D-35.

Follow MCHinsons advice. If it quit while driving down the road it could be a fuel pump or filter problem but don't rule out spark. If you can find someone that can help you diagnose the problem and understands point ignition that would be VERY helpful . Otherwise post your findings back here and we will try to help.

As far as I know 38 Fords still had mechanical brakes. However, it may have been "upgraded" . If so the master cylinder will be under the floor.

McMaster-Carr sell bulk lining. Depends what type you need.

Suspect that it was for recharging radio A batteries 2 volt wet cells. Might have been in a radio shop ? looks like with a bit of creative connecting you could charge most anything.

Agreed, they don't get much better.