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What did you do to your pre war Buick today?


Buick35
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  • Ronnie changed the title to What did you do to your pre war Buick today?

Over the past couple of weeks I have been chasing a few details for my 1931 8-66S.  All my restoration pictures are organized in sub-folders by subsystem or topic.  These are pictures I added to various folders this week...

 

 

Interior Trim folder:

I got an e-mail from Shelby Trim that they are 2 yards short of a picnic for my interior seat upholstery job.  I have been buying material samples from various fabric vendors and today I finally sent a sample of what is in the car to SMS Fabrics in Canby OR to see if they can match it. 

 PFM 001.jpg

 

Parts Department folder:

I bought a pair of rear axle roller bearings and felt seals to go with the rest of my rainy-day selection of wheel bearings...

WB 002.jpg

 

WB 003.jpg

 

I'm building a fully functional and correct spare heat riser and exhaust diverter valve...

SHR 001.jpg

 

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SHR 033.jpg

 

Fabrication projects and tools folder:

I made the connecting rod that coordinates the diverter valve butterfly position with throttle and heat valves on the riser.

HRDVL 001.jpg

 

SHR 040.jpg

 

The original heat tube set screws for both riser and diverter are square head.  I can buy the 1/4-20 set screws for the heat riser casting- I have a bag of 100.  The diverter valve casting is another story.  The set screws for it are also square head but not 1/4-20, not #10-24, you can buy those, try finding #12-24 to fit the original threads in the casting!  I spent a couple of hours center drilling and tapping 1/4" square rod to fabricate heads, then installed #12-24x3/4" Allen head set screws in the square heads and silver soldered the heads to the set screws.   Such a simple thing... Do you think I'm getting a little too involved here?  I'm just sayin... 

SQ12 001.jpg

 

SQ12 003.jpg

 

SQ12 004.jpg

 

 

Edited by Str8-8-Dave
Arrange pictures, captions (see edit history)
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Trying to straighten bent front bumper mounting brackets...

Should just phone Dave Tacheny and see if he had a set of good ones.

Finally found enough good McLaughlin Buick rims to make a good set of 5,  last one arrived today.  Now I don't have to use the deeply pitted one from being sunk into the dirt(it was going to be the spare anyway but.....)

When I get the brackets straightened I will take them, the rims, and afew other parts to get powder coated.

My heap of junk never had any when I found it.   Not sure what I was thinking over 3 decades ago!  Thanks to all the people who helped/sold parts to me,  not many of these cars around here so everything is so far away.

 

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4 hours ago, dibarlaw said:

Just think, you should now have some potential spare stuff showing up in Winnipeg.

Indeed,  depends what Lucy's new owner needs and doesn't need.

 

It may not look like it but my project is kind of down to the short strokes of a climactic finish....😉.

 

I told a fellow Buick enthusiast I've never waited this long for anything.   His reply,  "Patience brother.  I've waited 30 years for this(his) Buick "build".  Ain't  no schedule for joy."

 

I appreciate the encouragement.....  I just don't want to run out of time.  And regarding patience,  patience is a virtue,  but no one has ever called me virtuous.   Actually having the project take this long must say something about me,  maybe both good and bad.    I guess I don't want to spend all my time on patience anymore,  I'd like to spend my time enjoying what I've been "patiently" waiting for.....  to drive my 37 McBuick coupe.

 

Take care everyone.

 

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I am rebuilding the rear door window tracks on my 1936 Buick. I found the left hand door wood dog leg in bad shape with lots of rot.  Since I am not restoring the vehicle I just needed to repair this joint.  What to do.  Here is my solution.  I cleaned out the rot, mixed a concoction of wood chips and the expanding type gorilla glue and pushed as much as I could get into the joint.  After drying I cut and sanded the dog leg.  I band sawed a piece of oak to fit the joint and screwed and glued it all together using gorilla construction non expanding glue.  I also installed a number of screws from inside towards outside of the wood to reinforce everything.   

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I learned that a metal lathe can also work as a metal shaper to cut gear teeth by watching videos on youtube, so I am using that same technique to machine the 16 spline teeth for new door handle shafts for my 1925 Buick Master touring.   Next I will have to learn how to make a lost wax casting mold and cast some handles. 

Kevin 

handles 1.jpg

indexing.jpg

cutting.jpg

handle fits.jpg

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I drove my '41 Special yesterday to a special photo shoot (see photo below). It's Summer here in Sth Australia, but it rained all the way there and back. What a strange Spring & Summer we've had/having!

I also received from SMS Auto Fabrics in Oregon some samples of Bedford Cord see below. I have a perfectly good leather interior, but really want Bedford Cord so that's my big plan at the moment. The sample with the green tick is the one I will use. Also shown is a pic of the current interior.

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Final Samples for Seat Squab Tops.jpg

2021 04 25.jpg

Edited by Grant Z (see edit history)
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This is a work in progress for a new top for my 15 Buick speedster "The Bumble Buick".

 

     I could have purchased a roadster two man top kit for $500-$900 from an online catalog but it still wouldn’t be correct.  But this is for a 1915 speedster that is already a modified car.  So, I bought a Bimini boat top kit with aluminum bows and black plastic hardware for under $100 to get all the parts needed to adapt the kit to make a one man two bow top for the Bumble Buick.  I plan to paint the aluminum bows so nobody will notice the difference as the Bumble Buick speeds past spectators….

  

3 Bow / 4 Bow Boat Bimini Top Cover Sun Shade Boat Canopy Cover 6ft / 8ft Long with Rear Poles & Storage Boot

$89.09/EA from Walmart Online.

 

     All went well to get the two bows to fit; but getting all the wrinkles out by making darts in the top fabric to fit the contours of the bows has been quite challenging.  I am sure it will cost me at least a couple of nice appreciation dinners to keep my resident seamstress happy.  But I expect she will also appreciate the shade it provides on summer tours.

     Now I know why getting a top made for an old car is so time consuming and expensive!

 

More progress yesterday.....  Now we just need to stretch it to remove most of the wrinkles before fastening it to the top of the windshield.

 

 

Top for Bumble Buick.jpg

Bumble Buick Logo Left.jpg

15 Buick Top 1.jpg

15 Buick Top 2.jpg

Edited by Mark Shaw (see edit history)
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Finished the rehab on my '38 Century front brakes; the car is now off the jackstands and back on its wheels!  I installed new wheel cylinders on all four corners, as the originals (which contained new guts) were all leaking to some extent due to significant pitting in the bores.  Also found two wheels (one front and one rear) that required anchor pin adjustment to properly center the shoes in the drum.  Cleaned everything up and bled each wheel.  Now have a nice, hard, high pedal.  ;)

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have removed and disassembled the non-operational automatic choke on my '38 Century.  So far, found a disconnected internal spring, sticky pistons and temperature calibration of the thermostatic coil appears to be way off...

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18 minutes ago, Buick35 said:

I dropped off my widow door glass to get a new one made.Unfortunately I lost one of the clips that holds on the window winder.I also need a new window channel. Steele rubber wants $76 for a pair of them which I thought is high.

Maybe this company offers an alternative?

 

www.metrommp.com

 

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I got my daughter to help me put the last machine screw in the 31 Buick Silphon unit.  My fingers were too big.  Then I topped off the coolant and went for a drive around the neighborhood to warm it up so I could see if the louvers fully opened.  They did.  Then I cleaned all the windows and checked the gas level in preparation for the Mackinaw Tour later this month.

31 Buick Test Drive 2.jpg

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Sorted thru the plating for my wind wings parts and footrest brackets for my 1925 Master.DSC00321.JPG.cb487845e423aefc8a041668e6e39350.JPG

 Niagara Plating has done a great job for me and quick turnaround. I sent them 20 pieces to be done.

 OOPS.....the photo shows only 19! Emailed a photo of what the missing clamp is to look like and called.

 They found the missing piece and it is on its way!

 

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1 hour ago, Old buicks 2 said:

Removed the water pump and shaft today on my 20-45  so I can make a new one out of stainless steel and reduce the rust and corrosion.   

Which stainless grade are you using for the shaft?  316, 316L, or?

Are you changing your seal from graphite cord to something else to ride on the ss shaft?

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19 hours ago, 32buick67 said:

Which stainless grade are you using for the shaft?  316, 316L, or?

Are you changing your seal from graphite cord to something else to ride on the ss shaft?

I went with 316 SS.    Right now, I don't know what I will use for a seal on the shaft.  I have plenty of the graphite rope stuff but understand there are teflon seals that are just as good if not better.    Someone said they last a long time and don't heat up like the graphite rope does.

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