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1967 Corvair advice


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Hello all.  I'm looking at a '67 Corvair 2 door.  I have stopped to look at it but no one is ever there, just a number to call.  What should I be on the lookout for when I call and go for an inspection?  I am not familiar with Corvairs other than I hear the leak oil badly??  Do they have rust issues and where to check.  I apologize for no photos but I will get some and have a friend help me to post them later but for now I just need to know what to look for mechanically and structurally.   It is an automatic with bucket seats with a fair interior and some rust at the lower corners of the windshield and back glass. The wife saw it and liked the way it looks is why I am even asking for advice.  I know you can't give an opinion without photos but the asking price is $6500.   

 

Thanks

Tim

 

!969 Chevrolet pickup

1967 Cadillac Eldorado

1976 Cadillac Seville

1976 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham

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You will find a wealth of information at www.corvair.org or one of the many local Facebook sites. 
 

You may also want to connect with your local Corvair group, which you can find on the website above. Where are you located?

 

Parts are readily available from several vendors including Clark’s (corvair.com), or California Corvair. Personally I have an early model ‘63 Spyder Convertible that belonged to my dad and I am in the process of having a friend help me get back on the road. 
 

Also you can typically get a decent, running Corvair for that price. 
 

Good luck and keep us posted if you buy the car!

Edited by victorialynn2 (see edit history)
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" some rust at the lower corners of the windshield and back glass. " right there the price should be about half since is like an iceberg, what you see is just the tip. Does sound like a coast car (salt air).

 

Can leak is needs seals but is more important that the baffles (thermostatically controlled in lower rear) work properly. Many are missing. Is a spring loaded rectangular flap in lower rear on each side.

110hp requires premium gas, PG tranny is very reliable. All may toss belts unless have a spring loaded idler. Corsa dash is a plus.

 

 

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It sounds over-priced. The windshield will need to be removed, as well as the back glass. Those channels where the glass mounts, if rusty, will leak rainwater into the car. So that would be a big expensive problem to deal with right there.

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Thanks for the advice.  I'm in upstate South Carolina and don't know of any Corvair clubs.  So, with the rust at the corners, should I leave it alone??  I'm going to try and contact the seller and see if I can look at it Wednesday and maybe drive it (assuming it runs).  It has been on this car lot for over a year and a half.

 

Thanks Again

 

Tim

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Point the rust near the windshield out to the seller. Say I heard that often can mean water leak right through, and very expensive to repair, removing the windshield, maybe some welding in the channel, primer/sealer, then re-install the glass. See if the seller is open to knocking a significant amount off the price.

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I suggest:  corvaircenter.com/phorum   for Corvair information. Several Corvair repair shop people hang out there and answer questions. There is a checklist for what to look for in buying a Corvair in the FAQs on there.

 

I've seen too much crap Corvair advice on Facebook, I don't even look there anymore.😉

 

 

10 hours ago, padgett said:

All may toss belts unless have a spring loaded idler.

 

Powerglide and alternator makes it really hard to flip a belt. 😉 Just adjust belt so you can turn the alternator fan with two fingers and it will go tens of thousands of miles. Tighten it to guitar string tension and it will not last long (neither will the bearings in the idler, alternator or fan).

 

$6500 is a price point where buying a "rust free" west coast car and having it shipped in is possible for the same money. I would have a Corvair person look it over before buying one. Lots of us around. Post you need help looking at a Corvair on corvaircenter and see who is close by.

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First car I ever bought for myself back in '78 was a '67 Camaro for $850. It had a badly dented passenger side door. 327 with 2 speed powerglide automatic.

 

Not much rust visible, but the trunk would fill with water when it rained. Removed the rear glass and looked at the lower channel where the glass sets in. Rusted through, not falling apart, but it had at least a couple rust holes all the way through. I ground it out with a grinding wheel on an electric drill. Painted it with lead primer. Then filled the holes with bondo. Then painted it again with the lead primer. Put the glass back in, using some "rope" type black caulk stuff an auto glass place sold to me. So it turned out to be not to big of a deal to fix.

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Thanks again for the reply's and advice.  I'm not really looking to buy another car, this one just happens to be for sale on the way to our son's house and the wife saw it (Corvairs have never been in my top ten list, sorry).  I just wanted to know what to check out and I knew the experts here would tell me.  I have visited several websites and youtube but there is no interaction like here.  I will post what I find out about it and if I decide to bite. 

 

Tim

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That pinchweld rust is far worse than it looks, and the ineffectual silicone to the stainless trim is doing nothing but making it worse. The acetic acid in the RTV will actually accelerate the rust. That will not be a cheap or easy repair, and without welding in new metal there will always be a leak. Find a better car.

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Definitely a salt air east coast car. Window channels just need time and money. A Lot. If into the A pillar then more of both. Needs dash pad. Missing spare tire (May be in front).

Best as a parts car.

ps takes premium gas & automatic is two speed.

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On 4/24/2021 at 11:45 AM, C Carl said:

There are plenty of well kept Corvairs available without rust. Buy one of those instead.   -    Carl


There are plenty of well kept Corvairs available without rust. Buy one of those instead. This one will be an expensive, frustrating PITA.    -   Carl 

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If your really not interested in buying one for gosh sakes don't drive one or you'll be hooked. They are fun cars and and reasonable priced for a collector car. The body style your looking at is very appealing to many. They are a poor mans sports car.

The one your looking at should not be considered for purchase. Money pit!

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4 hours ago, padgett said:

Best as a parts car.

No way. Best as a driver!👍  Just not a $6500 driver.

 

26 minutes ago, C Carl said:

There are plenty of well kept Corvairs available without rust.

Out where you live, yes. Around here, no. That's why I said in the $6500 range shipping a west coast car east is worth looking into.

 

And what's up with the weird cable hooked to where the choke pull off is missing on the left carburetor?????

 

Those lousy non (air) sealing spark plug wires need to be replaced with a good set from Seth Emerson at Silicone Wire Systems.👍 Leaking air at the spark plug boots robs cooling air from the engine, causing overheating.

 

20 minutes ago, plymouthcranbrook said:

And custom wheels often make me me a little nervous as I wonder how it has bern driven.

 

In the Corvair world, this is no issue. Lots of times it is because the person could not find 13" tires, so 14" + wheels get installed. That 110 Powerglide can power through any size wheel you can put on it. 15, 17 common now. Standard 5 on 4.75 pattern. My daughter runs 15" S-10 wheels on her 110 Powerglide.

 

Yes, 110 needs the highest octane fuel in your area, especially with the Powerglide. Powerglide's have 3.55:1 rears typically, so they accelerate as well as the manuals (that came with 3.27:1 usually). If a Powerglide is slow, tune the engine!😉

 

Buying this car means you will learn rust repair!😲 You will not find anyone to repair this at a reasonable cost. And, I see bubbles at the lower panels also.

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Solly chollie but my memories are of a 65 Corsa with 4-speed & 389/posi setup for autocrossing (quick steering, konis, etc). Later I bought a yellow 66 110/PG Monza for my wife but was no where near as quick (but the power top was nice & could cruise at 70).

 

As in real estate, location is everything.

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1 hour ago, padgett said:

Solly chollie but my memories are of a 65 Corsa with 4-speed & 389/posi setup for autocrossing (quick steering, konis, etc). Later I bought a yellow 66 110/PG Monza for my wife but was no where near as quick (but the power top was nice & could cruise at 70).

 

As in real estate, location is everything.

Sorry about what? I was comparing relative stock setups, i.e. 110 to 110. Of course the 140 is more horsepower, its right there in the number. And the 180 will outrun the 140 at top end. 😉 unless you put a nice size turbo on the 140.......🤣

 

3.89:1 was not a stock ratio for 140. That was purpose built from early parts for autocrossing. So was running A70-13 tires. Not much width, but small diameter. Saw those a lot in the early 80s at the course.

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Were plentiful in Indiana, pretty sure the 3.89 was stock in early Greenbriars and Rampsides and posi was available (but not common) for all. Turbo maybe but NG for autocrossing where response was critical. Also in stock for was limited by the small one bbl carb. Best was a four carb with a Quadrajet.

 

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Just at first glance I'd say $500, maybe $1000, does not look complete or intact. And I like Corvairs, had at least five (not sure). Then I moved to Fieros. Most had AC.

ps almost any GM 4.75" wheel fits. I like snowflakes.

 

snowflake.jpg

 

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3 hours ago, padgett said:

Just at first glance I'd say $500, maybe $1000, does not look complete or intact. And I like Corvairs, had at least five (not sure). Then I moved to Fieros. Most had AC.

ps almost any GM 4.75" wheel fits. I like snowflakes.

 

snowflake.jpg

 

If it had a smashed in right headlight and factory steel wheels this one could have been my wife’s first car

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4 hours ago, padgett said:

Just at first glance I'd say $500, maybe $1000, does not look complete or intact.

You have been out of Corvairs way to long. It is waaayyyy more complete than most I see people buy. It is 54 years old! No wonder the dash is cracked. All I see missing, besides body steel😁, is a brake pedal rubber pad, left carburetor choke pull off, proper spark plug wires, license plate nylon nut and cigarette lighter (which is usually missing now as people plug a cell phone charger into that jack). Spare tire, sure, but probably in the trunk, another common location unless used to travel and need the luggage space. 

 

Notable things right, NO rubber hose has appeared in the engine compartment. I see that crap in 75% of the Corvairs for sale. Even has all the wheel well molding, usually missing pieces since they don't fit poor bodywork....😉

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Big thanks to all who replied.  I appreciate the advice and knowledge given.  Like I said earlier, I'm not looking for another "project" vehicle as I'm still working on 2 at the moment.  If it could have been bought in the $3000. to $4000. range, I might would have got it just to play with as I have never owned, driven or even ridden in a Corvair.

 

Thanks again

Tim  

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21 minutes ago, C Carl said:

What year did Corvair ditch the swing axle and go to a proper independent rear suspension ?   -   CC

1965-1969 models had the updated suspension.

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Thanks, guys ! 
Corvairs are cool cars. I could never forgive Ralph Nader for what he did to them. I recall he had a gripe with the swing axle handling.  So certainly that would not be an issue at all with the ‘65 through ‘69 cars. Too late, Ralph had poisoned the well, and the damage was already done. We all wonder what Corvair would be today if that egomaniac sumbich hadn’t messed up a good thing. Did I mention that I despise Ralph ?    -   Carl 

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Remember hearing at GM that Corvair was supposed to be cancelled after the 66 model year and replaced by the Camaro. But after Ralphie it was decided not to cancel and was built through 1969 (though the Corsa went away).

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