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Everything posted by Aaron65

  1. Both of those are super cool! I'm surprised they're still there after six days; both the Courier and the F-250 look solid. I'd dig a Courier or a LUV, but shipping that thing would cost more than it's worth and I've truly got no more room. I'm paying for storage on three as it is.
  2. How is this still here? What a generous gesture and a great car! Someone in the area ought to be driving this around already... My wife just added, "What a great potential Father's Day gift!"
  3. A lot of condensation builds up in a crankcase, especially with a road draft system. If your road draft tube has any rust in it, which it probably does, thanks to the aforementioned condensation, the water that drips from it will look like oil. If you're truly concerned that it could be antifreeze, the first thing I'd do is rent a radiator pressure tester from a parts store, follow the instructions, and see what you come up with. If it's running well and not running hot, then you probably just need to take a longer drive to get the oil really hot. 15 minutes around town won't do it. Regarding engine vacuum: If you connected your gauge to the port for the vacuum advance, there's a good chance it's a timed port, meaning it doesn't see vacuum until the throttle is cracked open.
  4. Wow. Why would a person order such a beautiful car with that color combination? One or the other, people!
  5. There isn't one! I found this out the hard way when I had the rear end refreshed; the pumpkin gasket kept leaking as a result of the pressure. I solved the problem by replacing one of the back cover bolts (up high) with a large brake bleeder screw, which I connected to a long hose and a fuel filter (to keep dirt out) and tied up somewhere under the car. It didn't help that the pumpkin gasket folded funny when the shop reinstalled it. Needless to say, I used RTV and sealed it up, and it hasn't leaked since. The only conclusion anyone I've ever talked to (including myself) could come up with was that the old axle seals were not lip seals, they were felt, and they must have allowed some pressure in/out.
  6. Remember, the straight-8 has a metered fitting at the cylinder head. Therefore, the rocker shaft is not under full engine oil pressure, so it's more than a trickle, but not much. If one lifter bled down over the winter, it could take several minutes to fill up.
  7. I had a friend in high school whose family drove a medium red MT5 wagon! There couldn't have been many of those...I think I rode in it once, and it was a bit weird to see a "modern" wagon with a manual transmission.
  8. Of course, your results may vary (i.e. don't blame me if something goes wrong), but I think you'll be OK if you used the Remflex gaskets (as long as everything lined up when you installed it). Do a vacuum test...if the engine pulls 18" or more steadily, it's probably fine.
  9. I can't help you on the brakes, but if your carburetor is in decent shape, I would rebuild it rather than replace it. You will have to tune any new carburetor to suit your engine, AND you will have to ensure all the linkage adapts properly. On the other hand, your Riviera likely has the original Carter AFB on it, which was tuned to your specific engine (the carb number is usually on the passenger side front of the carb if you want to check). If it's in good shape, no new carburetor will likely work any better than that one. Original AFBs are great carbs. Even if you have to send it out to a trusted rebuilder (if you are at all mechanical, it's a fairly easy job doing it yourself), you will probably save money, too. Another thing...1963 Rivieras use Dynaflow transmissions, not Powerglides...totally different transmission.
  10. How are all the engine/transmission mounts? Can you replicate the shudder in neutral as the engine revs?
  11. Looks like you have a nice place to work!
  12. Wow. That there's your problem! I wonder how that could have happened...neutral drops in the high school parking lot?
  13. Excuse my ignorance, but why does the later torque tube have a rear u-joint? Is the tube itself angled to clear the floor? I've looked at Bernie's picture of a disassembled torque tube, but I think I'm still missing the point...My '53 only has one at the front.
  14. I've got a call or two out, but in case those don't pan out...does anyone have a good source for individual pieces of beltline window fuzzies? The ones with the stainless strip at the top? I need a 4-foot piece for the door panel on my '63 Thunderbird, and I remember having an easier time the last time I searched for it. Maybe my memory is flawed. Anyway, any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks! Aaron
  15. The best way is to mount the manifold like the factory did. I've cut the modern gaskets up to just use the intake portions and used the graphite mix recommended in the shop manual on the exhaust. The exhaust surface of my heads is not good enough, however, to continue to do this, so I've switched to Remflex gaskets. They are expensive, but they've lasted through two driving seasons, and I never got more than one season out of any other type of gasket. https://catalog.remflex.com/BUICK_Header_Exhaust_Manifold_Gasket_p/13-007.htm I wouldn't even bother using the ones you have; they will almost certainly start leaking sooner or later, probably sooner. One note with the Remflex gaskets: the heat riser gasket did not fit; it wasn't even close, but you can use any gasket there. I always coat both sides with High Temp RTV (not the Remflex gaskets, but the regular ones for the heat riser). To sum up: factory method is best, Remflex is next (IMO).
  16. If you plan to retorque the head, do it one bolt at a time in the order suggested by the shop manual, and break each bolt loose first (in order, one at a time). If you try to simply tighten each bolt, you will have to overcome its breakaway torque value, which could give you a false reading. The danger of retorquing in your case is that you may disturb the sealer on the driver's bank of bolts, but it sounds like you don't have much to lose by trying it. Good luck!
  17. Those tools were used to retorque the head after the engine had been run for a bit...I bent my own that worked OK, but if you plan to remove the head, you'll definitely want to remove the rocker shaft first. It's not hard, and you won't have to fight the pushrods that way. You will need an engine hoist or two pals to help you lift that head off; it's a monster.
  18. A rebuilt engine shouldn't really ever smoke, regardless of the ring type. It might use some oil, but if it's smoking profusely, something is wrong. If the engine is knocking back by the transmission, I'd be first checking my flexplate for cracks, looseness, or something else that has gone awry in that area. If the knocking is getting worse, I would stop driving it until you figure out the problem. Good luck!
  19. You may want to run over to V8buick.com for more details, but you should have no problems with the motor mounts or transmission bellhousing pattern. I'm not sure what the inlet/outlet situation is, but you may even be able to get away with using the Regal's radiator. If you don't have any smog worries, and you aren't looking for 12 second quarter miles, why not? One note of caution: the 300 has very few aftermarket parts, so if you're looking to hop it up, you need to be creative, and may want to consider another engine. If you're just looking to cruise, it should be an easy swap. Good luck.
  20. Looks good! You lucked out that the damage was contained within the vinyl top coverage area. The new top fits well; have you done one before?
  21. If the above information is correct, and the pistons are the only difference between a Special 322 and a Roadmaster/Super 322, I'd have no reservations about using an engine from a Special. I doubt you'd notice the difference in power, and you may even be able to get away with less expensive gas; however, I'd really go over this thread and do my homework, because it sounds like Buick changed a lot of parts over the course of a couple of model years. I'd want to truly make sure everything you have will fit together. Good luck...I enjoy getting a mothballed car running again, even though the process is often rife with frustration.
  22. I tried this last year, and it's still holding up at 1500 miles or so, although my repair was on a runner and not the heat box. You may want to disable the heat riser if you use JB Weld in that location.