Jump to content

Aaron65

Members
  • Posts

    1,113
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Aaron65

  1. That's true! I forgot that I had to use the "1/8 turn of a wrench" technique on those two.
  2. It's no problem! The factory gave you four holes in the undercarriage to access the front four bolts; you will probably have to rotate the crank as you remove the pan to get all the counterweights to clear, but you can probably have the pan out in 15 minutes if you have an air ratchet. Good luck!
  3. I think people's attitudes toward four-doors is changing; after all, almost everything being sold today is a four-door. Eventually, the bias against them will shift, at least theoretically. Their being cheaper is just another reason to consider one. With that being said, my only four-door is my Dart wagon. But I wouldn't have any problem picking up a cool four-door if I liked it.
  4. I have to store a few of my cars off-site, and my wife will follow me out in one of the cars to bring back "fresh" ones every few weeks. She likes driving them (short distances anyway)! Ask for her input in finding the next car and pick up something she wouldn't mind driving. People I know, however, say I have a fantasy marriage, and they're kind of right.
  5. Wow! That has to be a one of one - I wonder if the owners have run the Marti Report on it. It's a sleeper! Most Q-Code cars were probably Mach 1's, but I like it! Unfortunately, I think that this is a car that probably deserves a restoration; it's a little too far gone to be a cool driver (and I like that kind of thing, personally).
  6. There shouldn't be any need for the c-clips (axle retainers) to be pinched over the axles. They're held in their recesses by the spacer block and spider gear shaft, so they really can't go anywhere once everything is assembled (assuming that all the original parts are there). Are you greasing the axle bearings and looking at the seals?
  7. I'm guessing some stuck valves danced a little too close to some pistons. You could try some new pushrods and maybe pull the head to check out the valves, but you're getting into some money and time you probably don't want to spend on a car you're selling. You gave it a shot!
  8. Eric, I was at the show today and saw your car there...it was one of my favorites of the day.
  9. The axles are held in by c-clips, so you'll have to pull the spider gear cross shaft and hope the little pin/bolt doesn't break. While the axles are out, consider greasing the axle bearings - they're not sealed like they are on a newer car, and you're supposed to grease them every 25,000 miles (it's in the owner's manual). You may want to order some seals (two per axle, inside and outside) ahead of time, but new ones are lip seals rather than the original felt material. I had a problem with axle venting after replacing all the seals, and I had to rig up a vent. But we're getting ahead of ourselves... First, you need to pull the back cover and drain the rear end to get the axles out.
  10. Oops! You probably will luck out - it's a standard transmission car, so it should have solid lifters. If no valves are sticking, you should be in decent shape.
  11. Not really...it should have hydraulic lifters, which are fed from the rocker shaft down. Unfortunately, the rocker shaft is probably plugged up with sludge (along with the rocker arm passages). So don't be surprised if there's a little valve noise; I hope you luck out! That big manifold might be warped, so an exhaust leak is not out of the question.
  12. Regardless of their predilection to drink while tagging, I tell you the truth. I will say this - at least mine isn't upside down.
  13. Your VIN tag looks exactly like my Atlanta-built '53 Special's (cars with numbers that start with 6 were built in Atlanta), so I imagine that your tag is in the correct spot for that plant.
  14. https://www.hometownbuick.com/1953-buick/1953-buick-body-tag-decode/ It looks like your car should be gray with a green interior, and it was built in Flint.
  15. Yes, Buicks of this era had the main heater core under the seat. There's also a defroster core in the "heater" box under the dash; when you add in the water-cooler on the Dynaflow, you're looking at about 2 million feet of heater hose. I don't have my underseat heater hooked up because I don't drive my car when it's below freezing, and the defroster takes the chill off on a cool morning.
  16. Wow, what a car, especially for the price. That shouldn't be here for long.
  17. No need for special oil (in my opinion). You may want to prime the oiling system by removing the distributor and using a drill (I just chuck up a large flat screwdriver without a handle or something similar). Regular old 80W90 GL5 gear oil is fine for the differential. Dynaflow 263s had hydraulic lifters that are actually fed from the rocker shaft down, so they're set at zero lash. I adjust them cold with the engine not running. With the cam on the base circle, set the valve to zero lash (the rocker arm tip will just touch the valve at that point - you can see it easily on this engine), and then turn the screw another two turns down.
  18. I wouldn't bother with fuel additives. I use Shell Rotella T4 10W-30 in all my old cars with no extra additives (other than an occasional half bottle of Rislone to help quiet down a ticking lifter). You probably should count on replacing all three brake hoses, all four wheel cylinders, and perhaps the master cylinder. You may be able to get away with honing the cylinders and installing rebuild kits, but I wouldn't count on it. There's no need to change to a 12V system in my opinion. Make sure to use heavy gauge battery cables and you should be fine unless you're driving in 0 degree weather. You may want to consider cleaning and repacking front AND rear wheel bearings and replacing those seals at some point early on. Then you should be in pretty good shape to see what pops up next! Things will pop up on any car that's been sitting a long time, so be ready for anything, at least for awhile. https://www.teambuick.com/reference/library/52_shop/index.php Here's the service manual for you to download; you want the '52 manual because the '53 is just a supplement for upgrades (mostly V8 stuff). P.S. I can tell that the valves are adjusted wrong on that engine. Some are turned way farther down than the others. Chances are that some of the lifters are no longer pumping up. Driving the car for awhile might help, but you may want to be prepared to change them or clean them. They are very expensive, so you'd want to try cleaning first if it comes to that. At the very least, you'll have to do a valve adjustment, which is easy. I can explain it to you when the time comes if you want.
  19. Wow...that's a whole 'nother level.
  20. You can ABSOLUTELY have an old car in your budget. Keep an eye out here on the forum; there's a spot where people post old cars they find for sale online and in person. https://forums.aaca.org/forum/161-not-mine-automobiles-for-sale/ The key is realistic expectations. You'll probably get decent paint but not show car paint. You may end up with a four-door, which isn't a bad thing for a lot of people. If you keep an open mind, you can certainly find something interesting and usable for your price range or even less. People post them here all the time. All of my stuff is in driver condition, some better than others, and I've had a GREAT time in this hobby.
  21. Hey John, Both the V8 and the 263 were upgraded to the Twin-Turbine Dynaflow in '53; I believe the only difference is in the number of stator vanes (and the bellhousing?). Zero-sixty does take about 15 seconds, maybe even a little longer.
  22. I have a '53 Special, and the best way to describe the car is that it will easily go 75, but it doesn't really LIKE going 75. I'm accustomed to driving old cars, and I've had my Special since I was 28 (16 years now, yikes!). Every car has a natural cruising speed, and the '53 is happiest going 60-65 on the freeway, so that's how fast I drive. It's probably my favorite car, but it's not the one I'd choose as a daily driver for high speed use. One other thing...the gas mileage is pretty bad, if that matters. I don't keep track very closely, but it's in the 10-14 MPG range. Don't think I'm trying to tell you that these are bad cars - they're amazing - I love driving mine! Times have changed since 1953 though, and if you're not used to driving old cars regularly, I don't want you to be disappointed in your purchase. Additionally, are you in a salty area? A few winters will destroy an old car, just like they did when the cars were new. If you're in a salt-free area and you want an old car as a daily driver for freeway use, you may want to consider something a little newer, even a few years. Horsepower rating jumped rapidly in the 1950s, and even a '55 Buick would be better suited to the freeway.
  23. That's a great looking '62! I actually bought my '65 Corvair Monza from a Ford dealer. It had gotten traded in on something around Thanksgiving back in 2007, and I really thought I got a good deal on it. I did not. At the time, I knew Corvairs weren't worth much, but I didn't realize how much nicer a car I could have bought for only a few thousand more. Oh well...I still have it. It's fun, but I'll always be annoyed at how much I've spent on it.
  24. Ouch! You might be better off getting another core - that stuff is difficult to completely remove.
  25. Yep, in all likelihood, Nader gave the car an extra few years! The Mustang's huge success is what really did in the Corvair.
×
×
  • Create New...