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Aaron65

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Everything posted by Aaron65

  1. Hey all, I'd like to have the vacuum motors on my '65 Dart rebuilt; they work, but they no longer hold a vacuum when I use my vacuum pump, so they're likely on their way out. The heater's important, because the Dart is my cold, dry weather old car, and nobody likes vacuum leaks anyway. Anyone know of a reliable rebuilder with a reasonably quick turnaround time? Thanks! Aaron
  2. I've switched to electronic in 5 out of the 7 as well...new points just seemed to be a crap shoot. The only thing keeping me from making the switch (ha!) on the '53 is the generator; I've read that electronic modules don't like the inconsistent voltage. I forget...did you convert to 12 V?
  3. EDIT: First, thanks Robin. I did a ton of investigation over the last day or two after work, and I may have crossed wires in my head. Either way, I figured it out. My newer wire from the points to the coil broke at the connector. When the vacuum advance moved the points plate, it broke the connection momentarily. New questions: 1. Modern wire insulation seems less flexible than the original, and I think that caused the wire to bend at the connection rather than bending the wire. I made my new wire a little longer to offer more flex. Is there an alternative with
  4. I'm chasing an intermittent cutout problem on my '53 Special. When I push down on the accelerator for normal acceleration, it will feel like all power is cut, but it only lasts a second. It pulls fine at full throttle and has plenty of fuel from the accelerator pump. In case you're curious, here's what I've checked: 1. Fuel pressure at highway speed is 2-4 psi, depending on whether the needle is off the seat or not. This pressure is after the inline filter. The gauge is unaffected when the car cuts out. It pulls fine at full throttle. 2. I've tried three different conde
  5. You're exactly right, Lebowski. Since the model year was extended, they needed more letters. My April 1965 built car has "R" on the VIN tag, so this car was apparently scheduled for May 14, 1965.
  6. I was just down there in my (shame) Buick. To add to what Glenn said, you can "adopt" a car at the R.E. Olds Museum quite reasonably.
  7. I just looked through my service manual - it looks like an inline filter was all the V8 cars had (at least the four-barrel cars), in case anyone runs into the same question someday and finds this in a search. I think it might be time to change the inline filter, regardless of how clean it seems.
  8. I just had the AFB apart on my '65 Skylark. It hasn't been that long since I've had it apart (maybe 4-5 years), but the bowls were dirtier than I like to see. I run an inline filter that seems clean, but I long ago removed the filter that's located in the fuel inlet. Does anyone know what Carter used as a filter in '65? I seem to remember that mine had a paper filter, but I'm not sure if it was original. My Corvair uses sintered bronze filters, but that has Rochesters on it. Thanks for any ideas.
  9. I love the rooflines on '64 Ford and Mercury 4-door hardtops. You could hardly go wrong with that one...a beauty!
  10. I drained the converter and cleaned the pan today. There was many, many years of gross stuff in there. I'll try to pull some of the old fluid out of the drain pan and put a drop on the manifold, but it might be too mixed in with whatever was in the drain pan by now.
  11. Excuse me for the hypothetical situation, and I apologize if I've brought it up before (I'm having a deja vu moment), but I'm pondering trans cooler alternatives for my Dynaflow. A little backstory about why: I've been a bit of a bad car parent, but the '53 has been super reliable for years (I've had it for 15 years now). Before I took a 200 mile drive last week, I checked the transmission fluid for the first time in a while, and it was low (it drips) but it was also very gray and dirty. So I made a note to change it today. I've never had the pan off this thing, but I did have the conv
  12. My wife and I took the old '53 up the sunrise side of Michigan for a nice 200 mile jaunt yesterday. She didn't miss a beat, ran cool, and pulled down around 15 mpg or so. Not bad!
  13. It looks like you have enough taper that a machine shop would probably recommend boring it, but they'll probably go out to .030 over rather than .010, just to make sure it's cleaned up AND because that seems to be the most common replacement piston size. Most of the manuals I've read have recommended no more than .005" of taper, but I'd guess that was pushing it. You'd still have to hone it for the rings to seat, and even then those new rings would be getting a workout as they expand and contract to fit the bore taper. It would be a short term fix for sure, but if you don't put on too many
  14. I've noticed the same thing around here since April. I don't have anything older than 1953, but I've been out driving my stuff a lot, and I haven't noticed my usual ration of other old cars on the road. My theory is that a good portion of people who own old cars only get them out if there's somewhere to show them off; since there aren't any shows this year, many people haven't bothered.
  15. I'm learning about these cars once removed with my '63 Thunderbird, and mine's only a hardtop! They're really cool, but way more complicated than most old cars, and they're pretty frustrating to work on...I can't even imagine how much more complexity and frustration a Continental convertible would bring to the party. Anyone see that episode of Jay Leno's Garage where he introduced a guy who travels around the country fixing the windows and tops on Continentals? Any time there's a guy who can make a living doing that, you know you're in for trouble. But this isn't a hobby that
  16. No problem...I don't remember pulling any steering linkages on mine, so you may want to try removing the pan without disconnecting the steering first. If it doesn't work out, you can always disconnect some stuff then. Good luck!
  17. Dropping the pan in a straight 8 Buick isn't bad because the engineers thought of the mechanics having to work on them. Your car should have four holes drilled in the front crossmember so you can easily remove the front four oil pan bolts. Other than that, you may have to turn the crankshaft so the counterweights don't get in the way of the front of the pan as you slide it out. It's been a while since I removed the pan from my '53 Special in the car, but I had to do something to the oil pump, and I believe I finished the job in an hour or two. Make sure you have a manual on hand for torque
  18. Yeah, but their forums are populated by people who own and like Pontiacs, so he might find that some of those people have NOS parts. How could it possibly hurt to broaden one's search?
  19. You may want to cruise over here: https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/forums/
  20. It's the brake pedal I'm talking about (I already have the zip tied heater hose on the e-brake). My car's a southern car and the spring hasn't given any signs of problems, but old springs are always potential problems in my experience, so I'm looking for a new one. It sounds like I'll have to improvise.
  21. I was underneath my '53 for several hours yesterday adjusting brakes and flushing the lines, and I noticed that my brake pedal return spring has seen better days. To save myself some running around needlessly, has anybody used a generic off-the-shelf spring before, or is this a specialty piece? Thanks!
  22. It looks amazingly dry under there! Nothing I own looks as leak free as that does...wow!
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