What are you working on right now?

[edinmass]

6 hours ago, Grimy said:

Is that a Freudian slip?

Nope.....

auto correct..........

[edinmass]

Spent 12 hours installing a battery today........old cars suck. PII Rolls Royce cars are the second most complicated cars on the road...........my entire body is sore........it’s done. Drive tomorrow.

[alsancle]

6 hours ago, edinmass said:

Spent 12 hours installing a battery today........old cars suck. PII Rolls Royce cars are the second most complicated cars on the road...........my entire body is sore........it’s done. Drive tomorrow.

 

1.  You didn't answer my question about the "M" on the ignition switch.

 

2.  What is the most complicated?

 

I vote for Doble E series.

[edinmass]

B is for battery, M is magneto.

 

PIII is the most complicated..........Doble I am sure in a few ways is complicated........but many of the basic components are not.

 

[alsancle]

51 minutes ago, edinmass said:

B is for battery, M is magneto.

 

PIII is the most complicated..........Doble I am sure in a few ways is complicated........but many of the basic components are not.

 

 

Exactly.  But you were calling it a Dynamo?

[edinmass]

Let’s see.....how dense are you? Maybe this will explain it. Google UK term for a dc generator........dynamo coms up at the top.......

 

As Robert Shaw once said...........”Well it proves one thing, you fancy over educated college boys don’t have the common sense enough to admit when your wrong!”

 

If the above is in poor taste......it’s ok......we are all car guys here.

 

 

Edited June 19, 2021 by edinmass (see edit history)

[edinmass]

Just saw this..........thoughts?

[alsancle]

4 hours ago, edinmass said:

Let’s see.....how dense are you? Maybe this will explain it. Google UK term for a dc generator........dynamo coms up at the top.......

 

As Robert Shaw once said...........”Well it proves one thing, you fancy over educated college boys don’t have the common sense enough to admit when your wrong!”

 

If the above is in poor taste......it’s ok......we are all car guys here.

 

Ed you speak in riddles.   I thought the Rolls can run the ignition on (B) battery or (M) magneto as shown by the ignition switch.   You keep talking about a "Dynamo" which you say is the English term for dc generator. 

 

Does the rolls also have a Dynamo or are you talking about the thing Rolls Royce refers to as a "Magneto".  

Edited June 19, 2021 by alsancle (see edit history)

[alsancle]

I loaded and transported my Stutz to have its engine dropped in.   The picture shows it delivered with the engine off on the right.   Since the exhaust and intake manifolds have to be fabricated,  not to mention the radiator, there a lot of work ahead.

[edinmass]

The above photo is taken in my old shop........a1922 Moon car dealership. I say my old shop, as now after well over fifty years in possession of my family, it has changed hands and now belongs to the next caretaker. I still have my cars and Pierce Arrow Travelodge trailer stored in it, along with assorted extra parts. 

[edinmass]

B= battery powered Kittering ignition system.

M= magneto, a dc device to make spark.

D= dynamo, a dc power generator.

A= alternator, an ac power generator.

 

The Rolls dynamo has nothing to do with the ignition system, it charges the battery, it’s also called a dc generator. The Rolls has dual ignition......a magneto and battery ignition feeding separate banks of spark plugs. When running, the generator or dynamo makes electricity for the storage battery and to power the lights and other accessories.

Edited June 20, 2021 by edinmass (see edit history)

[alsancle]

25 minutes ago, edinmass said:

The above photo is taken in my old shop........a1922 Moon car dealership. I say my old shop, as now after well over fifty years in possession of my family, it has changed hands and now belongs to the next caretaker. I still have my cars and Pierce Arrow Travelodge trailer stored in it, along with assorted extra parts. 

Yeah, about that.  We helped John push your stuff out in the street.

[Laughing Coyote]

Since it's been hot as all get out I started working on building a little trailer for me and my son's rc trucks.  Still have to make the fenders and paint. I may add tail lights too.  

 

[dei]

Spent the weekend putting a pad in for a new 10x12 shed much needed (if it ever comes in...).

 

 

 

 

What's the car connection you ask?

Once I get the lawn equipment placed for easy access there will be as many shelves as can be built to house all the Buick parts I need to get labeled and sorted out!

Edited June 22, 2021 by dei (see edit history)

[Laughing Coyote]

Trailer is all finished and ready to roll.  Just waiting on the hitch for the truck to come in Saturday.  Added tail light stickers.

 

[Terry Harper]

Yesterday was a busy day. With our first steam-up of the year on July 24th it was time to do a "valve job" on the 1907 Lombard Log Hauler. Which, to say the least, is a bit different than grinding the valves on a model "T" or any automobile with the exception of a Stanley. Equipped with balanced D-valves, the idea of a balanced valve in a steam engine is to reduce the pressure  forcing the valve against the valve seat. In this design, the cavity in the valve that directs the exhaust steam from the cylinder ports to the exhaust port is open to the top and is sealed by four steel bars pressed against the steam chest cover via little coil springs. These reduce the area of the valve that the high pressure (intake steam) exerts pressure against. This reduces wear on the valve and the port face and makes shifting the valve from the forward to reverse position much easier. Anyway, having set for almost two years it was time to take things apart and make sure those seals where still sealing. 

 

 

 

Next on the list... after 14 years one of the foot bridges gave out to rot so I had the privilege  of working with the "Tuesday crew" doing some demo work. Once again the 1928 Lombard dump truck earned its keep. Though I think the old beast burned through close to five gallons of gas for about an hours worth of work! The day was very humid and there is only a steel panel between the driver and the engine - by the time I parked the old girl I was just about done in. How back in the day they could operate equipment such as this for 12 hours a day for perhaps a $1.50 per day is beyond me... My hats off to them!

 

 

And... finally: spent time cleaning the Caretaker house which has been vacant for the last four or five years. Though I sort of had little choice since I was the one spending two nights in it. The museum is off grid so it was a good test of the new solar lighting system and new water system.

 

 

All good fun!

 

Terry

 

Edited June 25, 2021 by Terry Harper (see edit history)

[60FlatTop]

Once there was a PII Dynamo that wouldn't pull its relay in. The experts knew all the problems that had happened through history and chased them for two days. That's me with the gray in the beard. Fixed in about 45 minutes after they stopped trying to teach me and let me in with a VOM. There is a Golden Pen Award in the Flying Lady about that experience. Roy Bertch in the foreground, picture and article by John Utz. Car is 201RY.

 

[ericmac]

Today I took a much needed holiday from work and installed the new (used,) top on my HPOF '13 T Touring.  If it ever stops raining here I will get it out for a better photo.  Here it is in progress. Some of you may recognize Model T expert extraordinaire Mark Eyre helping me.

Edited June 26, 2021 by ericmac
Clarification (see edit history)

[Laughing Coyote]

My hitch came in and I ended up milling the hitch adapter for the receiver.  It's ready to go hit the trails tomorrow.

 

[Steve_Mack_CT]

Installed the transmission to frame cross membef component of my "float-a-motor" engine mounts today.  This component is often missing as mine was and helps ensure the engine tilts back 3 degrees and keeps drivetrain optimally aligned.  General puttering and prep to use the car a bit as we have some shows coming up here in CT in next few weeks. 😊

[ericmac]

I have the top done. That is a much easier job with two people.  

[edinmass]

Today, I got to play with very cool stuff.......best of all, I get paid to do it!

[edinmass]

Here is a never seen before Pierce Arrow...........at least not in the last 50 years.........almost done. It’s our trans-con car for next year. 3700 miles ocean to ocean. BONE STOCK.

[alsancle]

Paid?

[edinmass]

30 minutes ago, alsancle said:

Paid?

Yup.......I only work on cars that belong to the “elite”.

[alsancle]

I spent two days cleaning our trailer.  Unfortunately it’s parking spot is under some pine trees.  A wise man once told me a clean trailer is less likely to be hassled.  I still need to buy new hubcaps.

Edited July 3, 2021 by alsancle (see edit history)

[edinmass]

Yes......clean and “plain” .......no stickers, no ID , just a plane Jane look is what you want. My rigs look clean, maintained, and organized. In my rear seat of my pick up I have a tray with air pressure gauges, triangles, flashing strobes, flash light , fire extinguisher, and safety vests with gloves. When I occasionally do get pulled over, they see how well prepared I am and usually send me on my way. I also carry extras like a break away battery, bulbs, and other assorted smalls. I date a piece of masking tape on top of my break away battery with the last “new” date” and last charge date. All of the window dressing usually keeps them at bay and they go find someone else to bother. Occasionally I get the hard ass accusing me of being a gypsy commercial hauler......thus I NEVER open a closed trailer for any reason, ever. Now that one ton trucks can universally be registered as non commercial, it has stopped the harassment of the innocent hobbiest from getting tickets.

[mike6024]

I found out why my well pump is not working. The impeller broke apart. So I will be without water temporarily. See about buying one on Tuesday. It quit working on Wednesday but then on Friday I did some work on the jet and restarted it and for some reason it pumped for a while and I watered the garden, and recharged the tank, but then it quit again. Now I know the real problem.

 

[John Byrd]

What am I NOT working on would be a better question, lol !  Still have the 55 Studebaker in the shop with the tranny change waiting on the new driveshaft. Meanwhile, new plumbing and faucet for the master bath's tub, rock walls down each side of the house, replacing ANOTHER power window unit (right rear this time) in the "Fake" Mini... ( BMW's version ), putting a new battery in my wife's motorscooter, building shelf spacers for an old shelf that has the "droops", and more, but this is making me tired writing about it all, ha !

[Terry Harper]

Wow! The past few days I have actually been able to work on my big Wisconsin T-head project. It wasn't a whole lot but it was one of those jobs that I have had sitting around for quite awhile. Back a few years ago I made a pattern so I could have the oil filler cap cast. Believe it or not I actually used a lump of my daughters play-dough to take an impression of the raised text on an original cap. Anyway, the casting has been sitting around for quite some time collecting dust. I started off by facing and milling it to the final dimensions and than mill threading the external threads. (1-1/2-16) and than knurling it in the lathe. All I need now is a rivet for the chain that holds the cap to the filler neck which a quick visit to McMaster-Carr will take care of.

 

 

 

Its also been a lesson in self control. After cleaning up the filler neck I decided to cleanup the hand hole plates and the magneto mount which are all cast aluminum and bolt to a manganese bronze crankcase. The impulse is to sand, buff and polish all these pieces until they shine like a mirror. The oil filler neck in particular has some nasty surface imperfections - some, like the heavy handed grinding marks, are from the factory. Others, such as the gouges near the top, are from some clod trying to remove the long since missing original cap with a pipe wrench. 

 

As it is I am going to leave alone - just a good cleaning will do. Makes me wonder about the glimmering aluminum found on a number of Stutz Bearcat T-head engines - a much smaller sibling to the example I own. Both where supplied by Wisconsin Motor Manufacturing so I would assume both would have held the same level of finish - though this engine would squat the springs on said Stutz just a mite.. (LOL)

 

 

Edited July 5, 2021 by Terry Harper (see edit history)

[Terry Harper]

Today was the messy job of removing the half nut from the 1942, 13"x5' Southbend lathe. A half nut well beyond its goodness date combined wear on the lead screw means cutting threads is a fantasy. Half nuts are available but they cost an arm and a leg so... Joe Puleo is working with me to develop a more affordable solution. If worse comes to worse I will fabricate a pattern and have a new nut cast in 660 bronze.

 

Here is the half nut as installed. I removed the bearing block for the lead screw and simply slid the apron out beyond the ways far enough so I could work. At the top you can see the oil pipe and the oil cup cast into the top of the nut. A hole in the cup communicates oil to the dove tail slides and nut. When I install the repaired nut I plan to remove the apron and give the gear box etc. a really good cleaning.

 

Here the half nut has been removed and you can see the slotted cam that opens and closes the nut.

 

And the nut itself. 

 

 

Edited July 8, 2021 by Terry Harper (see edit history)

[John Bloom]

A few of you may remember a thread I started about buying a first classic and looking at engineering vs aesthetics. About three months ago I bought this 733 Packard club sedan.   It had been sitting for 3 years and prior to that was being run off a nurse tank and EFP into a replacement carb.  I have had a lot of enjoyment cleaning, polishing and researching. The car is Rock solid, but I will need to address the paint at some point. For now, I’m not worried about paint, I am focused on methodically going through each system individually to make sure all is correct and drive it.  
 

I am focused on all the lubrication for now. 2 ounces of marvel mystery oil down in each cylinder 3 weeks ago, drained all the oil, dropped the cover and cleaned the pickup screen, cleaning the filter assembly this weekend with hopes of getting it back together, repainted and installed.  I have not dropped the pan.  After going through all that I am going to move to the radiator/water pump, cooling system next. I have several gallons of evaporust standing by for that as my next phase (thanks to several threads on that by Matt and Ed). 
 

I want to be very thorough and I’m in no hurry.   I considered starting a thread under Restoration Projects for the car to keep my thoughts and advice organized but for now just jumped into this group thread. 

[Jeff Perkins / Mn]

John, great project and one which I would enjoy following. Either way would work to disseminate information to the masses. I definitely will watch for further interesting progress on this recommissioning of your Packard.

Jeff P.

[STEVE POLLARD]

My '69 Bel Air.... picked it last year, just replaced the original 14" rims with 15" with new rubber yesterday. This has the 6 cylinder with the three speed manual on the column. I'm getting a lot of input from a few friends to upgrade to a date coded big block engine, but on the other side of the coin, a few have been telling me to leave as is... It looks great in the pictures, but the paint is shot - sat out in the hot N.C. sun, it's faded and chalky like.

 

Steve 

[alsancle]

8 hours ago, STEVE POLLARD said:

My '69 Bel Air.... picked it last year, just replaced the original 14" rims with 15" with new rubber yesterday. This has the 6 cylinder with the three speed manual on the column. I'm getting a lot of input from a few friends to upgrade to a date coded big block engine, but on the other side of the coin, a few have been telling me to leave as is... It looks great in the pictures, but the paint is shot - sat out in the hot N.C. sun, it's faded and chalky like.

 

Steve 

 

 

 

The three on the tree is practically non existent on cars after 1965 but I believe it was the base transmission setup for many cars in to the 70s?    Good memories of learning a stick on that setup.

[alsancle]

I'm been waiting a week for some 12 point thin wall sockets to show up from ebay because I had one bolt on the Cord cross shift housing that had zero space.  For some reason all my SASE snap sockets are 6 point and all my metric ones are 12 point.    So finally got the housing off.   I have the new leather diaphragm from ACD parts and a shaft bushing.   I gave it to a local shop to do the replacement as there are two rivets that are beyhond my capabilities.

[Jeff Perkins / Mn]

1 hour ago, alsancle said:

 

 

The three on the tree is practically non existent on cars after 1965 but I believe it was the base transmission setup for many cars in to the 70s?    Good memories of learning a stick on that setup.

Father-in- law had a 1979 Chevy Nova with “3 on the tree”. That is the newest vehicle I’ve see with that setup.

[alsancle]

28 minutes ago, Jeff Perkins / Mn said:

Father-in- law had a 1979 Chevy Nova with “3 on the tree”. That is the newest vehicle I’ve see with that setup.

i think I’ve seen some later AMC products with that setup.

[STEVE POLLARD]

2 hours ago, Jeff Perkins / Mn said:

Father-in- law had a 1979 Chevy Nova with “3 on the tree”. That is the newest vehicle I’ve see with that setup.

My Grandfather special order a 1977 Chevrolet Nova with the three speed on the column - he was replacing his 1963 Chevy II.  I think it took 6 months for that Nova to come in.

[TexRiv_63]

22 hours ago, John Bloom said:

A few of you may remember a thread I started about buying a first classic and looking at engineering vs aesthetics. About three months ago I bought this 733 Packard club sedan.   It had been sitting for 3 years and prior to that was being run off a nurse tank and EFP into a replacement carb.  I have had a lot of enjoyment cleaning, polishing and researching. The car is Rock solid, but I will need to address the paint at some point. For now, I’m not worried about paint, I am focused on methodically going through each system individually to make sure all is correct and drive it.  
 

I am focused on all the lubrication for now. 2 ounces of marvel mystery oil down in each cylinder 3 weeks ago, drained all the oil, dropped the cover and cleaned the pickup screen, cleaning the filter assembly this weekend with hopes of getting it back together, repainted and installed.  I have not dropped the pan.  After going through all that I am going to move to the radiator/water pump, cooling system next. I have several gallons of evaporust standing by for that as my next phase (thanks to several threads on that by Matt and Ed). 
 

I want to be very thorough and I’m in no hurry.   I considered starting a thread under Restoration Projects for the car to keep my thoughts and advice organized but for now just jumped into this group thread. 

John, WOW! That is a beautiful Packard!! The slow and steady approach is the way to go. You do need to drop the oil pan for sure and clean it. Please start a thread in Our Cars and Restorations and let us follow along with your progress!