John348 Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 4 hours ago, victorialynn2 said: Hey guys, turns out the Tundra has an automatic trailer sway control feature. It automatically breaks individual tires on the trailer, lowers the engine tourque and turns on the trailer brake lights to alert people behind you. I still plan on getting a hitch as I wouldn’t only count on that, but this could explain why I’ve never felt any problems with my car hauler. There was once or twice I could have swore my truck slowed down on its own though. Toyota doesn’t recommend the hitch also. See, I wasn’t foolin! I didn’t even know it had this! http://www.serratoyota.com/blog/understanding-trailer-sway-control-tsc/ To elaborate on yesterday... I unhitched the truck from the car hauler to see that there were no issues with the bed load affecting the Tundra. The car hauler was pulling the back of the truck down some, so that is another reason I moved the Jeepster back when I could round up some guys to help and found a level parking lot. Also, I may monitored the air pressure every 50-100 miles most of the day yesterday. I lost 30 lbs of the 65 in one of my trailer tires in 100 miles from the weight of the Jeepster sitting directly over the tire. I was getting air pressure loss of over 15lbs on at least two trailer tires and some loss in the rear Truck tires at every stop. It immediately stopped when I moved the Jeepster behind the rear axel. This could also explain why my flat tires deflated and didn’t explode. You should not loose any pressure due to a load, if anything it will go up as you are towing due to heat from road friction. There is a problem with that much of a loss Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dictator27 Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 Tire pressures should never be checked when the tires are hot. Are you confident your tire gauge is accurate? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
39BuickEight Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 If they are just losing air then just use normal leaky tire troubleshooting techniques. Are they leaking around the rim? The stem? I think all the information in this thread is great, but the original problem seems to be just a case of leaky tires. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stude Light Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 (edited) Victoria Lynn you have a rim leak, valve stem leak or a puncture. Air should never leak out of the tire. Based on you loosing pressure during traveling and the age of the rims, I would guess a rim leak that may not show up when the tire is sitting still. I would suggest having the tires sealed to the rims. 4 pages of comments in three days - you know how to pick the topics! Edited January 31, 2018 by Stude Light (see edit history) 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victorialynn2 Posted January 31, 2018 Author Share Posted January 31, 2018 (edited) 2 hours ago, John348 said: You should not loose any pressure due to a load, if anything it will go up as you are towing due to heat from road friction. There is a problem with that much of a loss Haven’t had a problem since I moved the load off the axel. Been hundreds of miles now. This is the second trip I had tires lose air with rear tires on the back axel that were solved 100% by moving the load back. I’m still checking air every stop and cold every morning. Yes there is a veriation with temp but not 20-30 lbs of a 65 psi tire in 50-100 miles difference like before in back truck tires AND trailer tires. Normal variations now. Double checked with another gauge. Numbers don’t lie and mpg went up from 10 to 15 even when going over the passes. Don’t know what to say! I was was going to take the rims off and have them submerged and checked for air loss and replaced if needed but for a day and a half no more issues. Edited January 31, 2018 by victorialynn2 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 Tires should NOT lose air at all. What you describe is a serious problem. Take the trailer to a tire store or garage and get them checked out. No wonder you are blowing tires! In normal circumstances tires will hold their pressure for months or years. When they get hot from use the pressure will INCREASE. When this happens do NOT let any air out. This is why you always check pressure and inflate cold, before you start off for the day. I would not tow that trailer anywhere until I got the tire issue straightened out. Even empty I would take it easy and would not put any load on at all. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victorialynn2 Posted January 31, 2018 Author Share Posted January 31, 2018 I moved the load 600 miles ago and have not had any loss. I have had the trailer checked over multiple times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victorialynn2 Posted January 31, 2018 Author Share Posted January 31, 2018 I also hauled two cars in between the two problem loads that had the tires behind the rear axel without loss of air. I’m told it’s the design of this trailer to load this way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 I doubt your truck and trailer combination will have any individual side to side trailer brake control. As for losing air pressure in 100 miles in the truck AND trailer I am going to have to assume you are not checking the pressure properly. You are experiencing problems that simply don't happen. Safe travels.... woof Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 Moving the load back on the trailer was probably a good move and it seems that it made you happy. As for the load in the pick up I doubt there is over five or six hundred pounds in there. How much did that last dump load weigh with all those magazines ? I don't think the load in there now would be any heavier than that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leon bee Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 The reason you get so much advise is we all like you and respect what you've been doing. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victorialynn2 Posted January 31, 2018 Author Share Posted January 31, 2018 15 minutes ago, JACK M said: Moving the load back on the trailer was probably a good move and it seems that it made you happy. As for the load in the pick up I doubt there is over five or six hundred pounds in there. How much did that last dump load weigh with all those magazines ? I don't think the load in there now would be any heavier than that. Then the truckers gauge and loves employees guaged st two stops have the same faulty ones as well as the guage on the air fillers. I couldn’t believe the new tires were loosing either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victorialynn2 Posted January 31, 2018 Author Share Posted January 31, 2018 And the discount tire employee. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC38dls Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 VL2. Good news is you are getting the job done and sounds like you are at least half way home or better. When you do get home I would check the valves and rims just to be sure. Heat/cold expansion contraction due to the weight being wrong may be the problem but it is still something that really should not happen. Drive safely, have fun, enjoy the adventure. Give the 4 footed critter riding companion a cookie every once in a while. Dave S 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Street Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 Victoria I sort of made a resolution to myself not to post anything else on this item after carefully rereading your goal and the fact you are doing what you can with the only truck and trailer you have available to tow those vehicles! If I was closer I would have pitched in to tow one of the heavier cars for you. Anyway what has caused me to respond is this losing air issue. Yes, I believe it is a valve stem or a tire seat issue but I use a simple item to check for many years. The next spray bottle you empty rinse out and put two cap fulls of dawn or similar dish detergent and fill the bottle with water. Spray the rims and stems a couple times a day. This method has proven to be very reliable for me and is quicker that submerging a pressured tire. I haven't seen a small leak yet that it hasn't indicated by a bubble or two. I have other comments but will not burden you with them. Keep on trucking! Robert 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victorialynn2 Posted January 31, 2018 Author Share Posted January 31, 2018 I was also thinking that the extra weight may have been accentuating a wheel issue. For the record I didn’t add the air. The second time we added air, we had a hell of a time with one of the valve stems. I had to swipe my card (@1.50 ea) several times to get it filled. I was going to get it replaced but I stopped loosing air. In the meantime I am still stopping between fuel fills to check air. So far, so good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victorialynn2 Posted January 31, 2018 Author Share Posted January 31, 2018 I am at a rest stop in Weed. Close to the Pregon border. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimy Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 I know it well. Gear down when climbing the Siskiyous and keep the rpm at the sweet spot for that engine with the proper gear. Then leave it in that gear for the descent into OR. But you know that! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victorialynn2 Posted January 31, 2018 Author Share Posted January 31, 2018 58 minutes ago, Grimy said: I know it well. Gear down when climbing the Siskiyous and keep the rpm at the sweet spot for that engine with the proper gear. Then leave it in that gear for the descent into OR. But you know that! I did! I love the clutchless manual shift. I have it in my Pontiac also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobg1951chevy Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 (edited) 16 hours ago, dep5 said: Seriously? Why were you cruising in the left lane? Yes, seriously, dep5. On this Interstate, by Asheville, NC, at the intersection of I 40 and I 26, the single left lane goes to the west, the right lane heads north. I was in the correct lane, heading west. The doofus jumped into the right lane, the northbound lane, passed me incorrectly by using the right northbound lane ...... then cut in front of me to head west, thereby cause a huge wreck. So no, dep5, I was not just "crusing " in an incorrect lane ..... I was following the correct path, in the correct lane. Clear now ? Edited February 1, 2018 by bobg1951chevy spelling (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlier Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 3 hours ago, victorialynn2 said: I was also thinking that the extra weight may have been accentuating a wheel issue. For the record I didn’t add the air. The second time we added air, we had a hell of a time with one of the valve stems. I had to swipe my card (@1.50 ea) several times to get it filled. I was going to get it replaced but I stopped loosing air. In the meantime I am still stopping between fuel fills to check air. So far, so good. I agree that the extra weight due to the Jeepster being more forward on the trailer may have been changing the geometry of the tire on the wheel thus impacting the seal of the wheel on the tire. If that where the case however, one would think that air loss caused by something like that would be more rapid and catastrophic. I can't remember reading in this thread. Did you ever post that your trailer tires has Rubber or Steel valve stems and caps? I agree that your difficulty in filling the tire with the valve stem would indicate an issue like you surmise. The last time I had a slow air leak on one of my car tires I found that once I replaced the needle in the valve stems and made sure it was good and snug my slow leak stopped. FYI, just in case you are not aware the Tundra as an engine braking feature which is nice when towing. Especially down hills/mountains. That feature was nice last summer when I was traveling up and down the mountains in West Virginia to an AACA Meet. BTW, do you know how to use the Tundra's "S-Mode" transmission feature and what it does? If not, you REALLY should. LMK and I will be happy to explain it to you. It can be VERY beneficial when you are towing up/down mountains. Be Safe as you continue your drive home. Charlie 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stude Light Posted February 1, 2018 Share Posted February 1, 2018 (edited) 16 hours ago, JACK M said: I doubt your truck and trailer combination will have any individual side to side trailer brake control. Not that this is going to help with VL's issue but it bothers me to see mis-information. Jack is correct and that Serra Toyota article is wrong. The trailer sway control on the Tundra (and most all the other manufacturers) uses the inertial measurement unit (basically, accelerometers) in the truck's electronic brake control module to detect roll and yaw rates in the truck caused by the trailer swaying. The trailer has to have enough sway and inertia to affect the truck. After a few oscillations are detected, brakes on the individual wheel corners on the truck (not individual trailer brakes) are applied to counteract the trailer sway and will generally slow the truck a bit at the same time. This is all part of the vehicle's stability system. An anti-sway hitch on a trailer is much more effective as it prevents the sway in the first place. The vehicle's stability system helps to mitigate the sway, keeping it from getting excessive and causing the driver to lose control. So, the trailer hitch is a preventative while the truck system is a treatment. Scott Edited February 1, 2018 by Stude Light (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike6024 Posted February 1, 2018 Share Posted February 1, 2018 To orient folks who've never been. Weed has a museum with this fire truck also. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digger914 Posted February 1, 2018 Share Posted February 1, 2018 Looked at this post a couple of hours ago and didn't have time to reply so I have no idea how Weed got into the picture without any mention of its booming sister city Yreka. Now that I've put in my plug for Yreka, I can mention an overlooked cause for tandem axel trailer excessive tire wear and catastrophic tire failure. Alignment and an axel tweaked out of place by an 1/8 of an inch can eat up two sets of tires in a thousand mile trip. Also have to put in a plug for stability control, required on all new cars since 2012. Have stability control with electric brakes for towing a boat on my little Saab wagon and considering that the boat probably weighs as much as the car, I haven't had any trouble with the tail wagging the dog. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victorialynn2 Posted February 1, 2018 Author Share Posted February 1, 2018 I’m home. All is ok! Catch up later. There is a pillow with my name on it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC38dls Posted February 1, 2018 Share Posted February 1, 2018 Another adventure in the books. Glad you are home, safe and all went well Dave S 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victorialynn2 Posted February 1, 2018 Author Share Posted February 1, 2018 20 hours ago, JACK M said: As for the load in the pick up I doubt there is over five or six hundred pounds in there. How much did that last dump load weigh with all those magazines ? I don't think the load in there now would be any heavier than that. I think just over 300 lbs. I think you were right about the wheels. The extra weight probably just made it worse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victorialynn2 Posted February 1, 2018 Author Share Posted February 1, 2018 On 1/31/2018 at 5:35 AM, Grimy said: You should have METAL stems on trailer wheels. I believe they are but plastic caps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victorialynn2 Posted February 1, 2018 Author Share Posted February 1, 2018 20 hours ago, Robert Street said: Victoria I sort of made a resolution to myself not to post anything else on this item after carefully rereading your goal and the fact you are doing what you can with I have other comments but will not burden you with them. Keep on trucking! Robert Thanks Robert. I am always open to comments. I was just getting a bit overloaded while on the road and couldn’t keep up. Lol I am home now. If you have some sage advice that you think might help me, please post it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victorialynn2 Posted February 1, 2018 Author Share Posted February 1, 2018 19 hours ago, Grimy said: I know it well. Gear down when climbing the Siskiyous and keep the rpm at the sweet spot for that engine with the proper gear. Then leave it in that gear for the descent into OR. But you know that! Honestly I know to gear down going down, but up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victorialynn2 Posted February 1, 2018 Author Share Posted February 1, 2018 (edited) On 1/31/2018 at 3:32 PM, charlier said: I agree that the extra weight due to the Jeepster being more forward on the trailer may have been changing the geometry of the tire on the wheel thus impacting the seal of the wheel on the tire. If that where the case however, one would think that air loss caused by something like that would be more rapid and catastrophic. I can't remember reading in this thread. Did you ever post that your trailer tires has Rubber or Steel valve stems and caps? I agree that your difficulty in filling the tire with the valve stem would indicate an issue like you surmise. The last time I had a slow air leak on one of my car tires I found that once I replaced the needle in the valve stems and made sure it was good and snug my slow leak stopped. FYI, just in case you are not aware the Tundra as an engine braking feature which is nice when towing. Especially down hills/mountains. That feature was nice last summer when I was traveling up and down the mountains in West Virginia to an AACA Meet. BTW, do you know how to use the Tundra's "S-Mode" transmission feature and what it does? If not, you REALLY should. LMK and I will be happy to explain it to you. It can be VERY beneficial when you are towing up/down mountains. Be Safe as you continue your drive home. Charlie Charlie, I didn’t know about the engine breaking. As for the “S-mode”, at the risk of sounding foolish, I will tell you what I think it is. I’d rather know if I’m wrong than worry about being foolish. I think the S is for sport and changes the gear ratio to a more sporty one. I believe it’s part of the TRD package or do they all have it? My Pontiac G6GT also has the manual shifting. I think it helps acceleration when passing. It also has what I call “clutchless manual shift”. You can manually change gears like a standard. I use it going downhill to save on breaks and avoid them getting to hot, especially the trailer. My dad taught me to use lower gears a standard or L1 or L2 with an automatic transmission. Am I close? Am I using it right? Edited February 5, 2018 by victorialynn2 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dictator27 Posted February 1, 2018 Share Posted February 1, 2018 1 hour ago, victorialynn2 said: Honestly I know to gear down going down, but up? Yes. Grimy is right on. Gearing down going uphill reduces the strain on the transmission and the increased revs draw more air through the rad at low speeds. It shouldn't be difficult to determine the sweet spot - it is the point where the truck is pulling strongly but not straining. I've been over the Siskiyou in my motor home (6,8 litre Ford V10 pulling 7 tons) with the tow/haul feature engaged, in third gear with revs about 3200 and speed 40-45 mph. That's where it is happy so that is what I do. Anyone who wants to go faster can pass me. I'll get there.? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlier Posted February 1, 2018 Share Posted February 1, 2018 1 hour ago, victorialynn2 said: Charlie, I didn’t know about the engine breaking. As for the “S-mode”, at the risk of sounding foolish, I will tell you what I think it is. I’d rather know if I’m wrong than worry about being foolish. I think the S is for sport and changes the gear ratio to a more sporty one. I believe it’s part of the TRD package or do they all have it? My Pontiac G6GT also has the manual shifting. I think it helps acceleration when passing. It also has what I call “clutchless manual shift”. You can manually change gears like a standard. I use it going downhill to save on breaks and avoid them getting to hit, especially the trailer. My dad taught me to use lower gears a standard or L1 or L2 with an automatic transmission. Am I close? Am I using it right? Trying to learn new things or verify that something you have learned is correct is NEVER foolish IMHO. So as not to take this thread more off topic than I have already, let me just say you are correct about S-Mode for the most part. It does other things as well which I will explain to you in a Private Message along with other things the Tundra can do when towing. Glad you are home safe. Charlie 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victorialynn2 Posted February 2, 2018 Author Share Posted February 2, 2018 (edited) 7 hours ago, charlier said: Trying to learn new things or verify that something you have learned is correct is NEVER foolish IMHO. So as not to take this thread more off topic than I have already, let me just say you are correct about S-Mode for the most part. It does other things as well which I will explain to you in a Private Message along with other things the Tundra can do when towing. Glad you are home safe. Charlie Appreciate any info Charlie. It’s my thread and this isn’t off topic in my opinion. I welcome all help for towing or properly using the equipment I have! I would like to tell everyone that I appreciate everyone watching out for me on my trip. It makes traveling alone less scary. The second dog I got in Texas (Bear-German Shepard mix) has been rehome with Jack. He is a hurricane rescue and Patsy was a rescue before the hurricane last year. Not Bear’s fault at all. Patsy isn’t nice to him because Bear wants to play with humans more than her. He is an awesome dog and it would have been horrible if I wasn’t so happy for his wonderful new home. They were perfect travel buddies and help me feel safe, even sleeping at truck stops in the pickup. I don’t sleep much when I travel so hotels are a bit of a waste and I like to keep an eye on my load. It’s more comfortable then it sounds as the backseat and the passenger seat is fully filled to be level. Plus I’m only 5’2”. The dogs enjoy that as it gives them lots of room also. (Talk about off topic!) Also, I have to make a couple cracks at some things. 1) I can’t believe you guys thought I’d check pressure and air tires up by myself. Don't you all know by now that I need double and triple opinions because I don’t trust myself? ? 2) I think there is going to be a massive recall on air pressure gauges, like the extinguishers since the tires just couldn’t have been losing air. You all are convinced me that never happens! ? Seriously though you are right. I really think the extra axel weight was accentuating bad wheels. Thanks for helping figure that out. Seriously, I couldn’t ask for a more supportive and helpful group. Sometimes I have to stop the noise and go with my gut, but I had lots of ideas to try to fix the air loss. Tuesday I tried different things, went 50-100 miles to check air and see if it helped. I couldn’t have done it without all the comments. For the record, Jack was first to suspect the wheels and many of you also suggested that. Of course he has the advantage of seeing my equipment in person. I tried to get them replaced before I moved the Jeepster but the tire shop had two 18 wheelers in the way and it would have been a long wait so I eliminated the loading issue by moving the Jeepster back. My intention was to get to the next tire shop down the road. I am always amazed at how helpful people are to a traveling lady with a classic and it was easy to round up help to move the Jeepster in a random parking lot. Haha Thank you from the bottom of my heart. You all are my guardian angels and I am very grateful! Edited February 2, 2018 by victorialynn2 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victorialynn2 Posted February 2, 2018 Author Share Posted February 2, 2018 I don’t think I ever shared a pic after I moved the Jeepster back. I am happy to report it made it safe and sound. It didn’t even rain the entire trip! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stude Light Posted February 2, 2018 Share Posted February 2, 2018 The load distribution looks lots better! You could always turn the vehicle you are hauling around if you start running out of room behind the axles. That will center most of the weight (engine/trans) between the two trailer axles. Scott 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted February 7, 2018 Share Posted February 7, 2018 Palm Trees ? Oregon ? BTW there is a second reason on modern cars to gear down on grades: on many cars and trucks there is something called Performance Enhancement or PE. This occurs when the throttle is depressed over half way and richens the mixture up a couple of points. MPG is reduced dramatically. If by dropping a gear or two you can pull the grade without going into PE it will help your pocketbook. Ford made a mistake IMNSHO pairing the EcoBoost 2.7 with the trailer towing package in pickups were many many complaints about poor MPG resulting from too many miles in PE. In that case the Ecoboost 3.5 is a much better choice. (Personally think we will be seeing more of direct injection and boost in a gas engine, is going to replace a lot of diesels). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Street Posted February 8, 2018 Share Posted February 8, 2018 3 hours ago, padgett said: Ford made a mistake IMNSHO pairing the EcoBoost 2.7 with the trailer towing package in pickups were many many complaints about poor MPG resulting from too many miles in PE. In that case the Ecoboost 3.5 is a much better choice. (Personally think we will be seeing more of direct injection and boost in a gas engine, is going to replace a lot of diesels). I disagree as I have owned gas tow rigs with the 6.0 and 6.2's and I don't plan on ever going back to that very low mileage and high oil and transmission temperatures. Robert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted February 8, 2018 Share Posted February 8, 2018 On 2/2/2018 at 12:55 PM, Stude Light said: The load distribution looks lots better! You could always turn the vehicle you are hauling around if you start running out of room behind the axles. That will center most of the weight (engine/trans) between the two trailer axles. Scott Towing the car backwards with a rig like that is insane. DO Not put more weight further back with that truck and trailer combination. As I stated before, the rig is marginal at best on flat roads at reasonable speeds for short hauls. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimy Posted February 8, 2018 Share Posted February 8, 2018 13 minutes ago, edinmass said: Towing the car backwards with a rig like that is insane. DO Not put more weight further back with that truck and trailer combination. As I stated before, the rig is marginal at best on flat roads at reasonable speeds for short hauls. Agree that the Jeepster should not be backwards on the trailer, Ed, but its weight does not exceed 2,600, so the trailer at 2,000 or less plus the Jeepster are well within the specs of the Tundra. What we don't know is how much additional weight may have been in the Jeepster or in the Tundra's bed. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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