Taylormade Posted October 1, 2015 Author Share Posted October 1, 2015 That's the one pictured in my Owners manual, with the weird filler/vent thing. Looks like Phil's got messed with, too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted October 21, 2015 Author Share Posted October 21, 2015 I walked all the fields at Hershey and stayed for the car show. When I'm able to stand again I will have more on the restoration. I found lots of good stuff at the Fall meet and saved a bundle on shipping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted October 22, 2015 Author Share Posted October 22, 2015 I rolled out the nearly completed frame today. First time she's been in the sunlight in a long time. I've posted some shots taken August 24, 2013 to show the progress over the last two years. A move to a new house and the construction of a new garage put quite a dent in the process. I figure about six to seven months were lost, but things are back on track now and I hope to have the car assembled mid-summer of next year. I found some appropriate rubber mat for the front floor and the running boards at Hershey. The pattern is slightly larger than the original, but it looks just about the same. Short of having some made, this is as close as I can get and the price was reasonable. Polishing the new running board trim and putting the mat and the trim on my new;y made running boards will make for a nice winter project. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Zetnick Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 What a beautiful transformation! Can't wait to see what she looks like this next summer! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted October 24, 2015 Share Posted October 24, 2015 How awesome does that look........I love before and after shots.Great progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ply33 Posted October 24, 2015 Share Posted October 24, 2015 Could you post a photo of the rubber mat you found showing the pattern? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted October 24, 2015 Author Share Posted October 24, 2015 Here is a shot of the mat I bought. This is obviously a sample - I didn't want to unroll the whole thing until I'm ready to deal with it. I bought it from restoration Specialties and Suppy, Inc. in Windbar PA. It's slightly larger in pattern than the original, seen here in my friend Phil's 32 DL. floor mat. Same wide rib and tiny rib sections, but the mat I bought is about one hundred percent larger in scale overall. This shot of Phil's floor mat shows the actual size. My wide ribs are about 1/4 inch rather than the correct 1/8 inch. This is the a shot of the material I bought used on a Chrysler I saw at the national meet in Springfield. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countrytravler Posted October 24, 2015 Share Posted October 24, 2015 (edited) Taylor.Check this out. On Facebook. Charlie ToschCars Of The 1900's to 1930's 39 mins · This is a 1932 Dodge DK8 that was owned by my mother in the late 1950's and early 1960's. It was a powerful car with it's 8 cylinder engine. I've never seen another 1932 DK8 Dodge, but I suppose some still do exist. The picture was taken in the mid to late 1960's just before we sold the car. Should not have done that. Edited October 24, 2015 by countrytravler (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted October 24, 2015 Share Posted October 24, 2015 Taylor.Check this out. On Facebook. Charlie ToschCars Of The 1900's to 1930's 39 mins · This is a 1932 Dodge DK8 that was owned by my mother in the late 1950's and early 1960's. It was a powerful car with it's 8 cylinder engine. I've never seen another 1932 DK8 Dodge, but I suppose some still do exist. The picture was taken in the mid to late 1960's just before we sold the car. Should not have done that. Here is Bill's 1932 DK8 at the DB meet in Michigan.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ply33 Posted October 25, 2015 Share Posted October 25, 2015 Here is a shot of the mat I bought. This is obviously a sample - I didn't want to unroll the whole thing until I'm ready to deal with it. I bought it from restoration Specialties and Suppy, Inc. in Windbar PA. It's slightly larger in pattern than the original, seen here in my friend Phil's 32 DL. floor mat. Same wide rib and tiny rib sections, but the mat I bought is about one hundred percent larger in scale overall. This shot of Phil's floor mat shows the actual size. My wide ribs are about 1/4 inch rather than the correct 1/8 inch. This is the a shot of the material I bought used on a Chrysler I saw at the national meet in Springfield.Thank you for the photos. It looks like a bit better match than the stuff I bought at http://www.rubbercal.com/industrial-rubber/heavy-duty-rubber/corrugated-composite-rib-rubber-runner-mats.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted October 25, 2015 Author Share Posted October 25, 2015 Those don't look too bad, either. Do the wide ribs stick up or are they recessed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Lawson Posted October 25, 2015 Share Posted October 25, 2015 I enlarged the image and it appears that the solid ribs are recessed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted October 25, 2015 Share Posted October 25, 2015 This is close to the pattern used in earlier years, e.g. 1930 DC on which the wide ribs are depressed. Unfortunately there are 6 fine ribs on my mat rather than 5. What are the dimensions of the ribs on the rubbercal mats? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ply33 Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 Those don't look too bad, either. Do the wide ribs stick up or are they recessed? I enlarged the image and it appears that the solid ribs are recessed This is close to the pattern used in earlier years, e.g. 1930 DC on which the wide ribs are depressed. Unfortunately there are 6 fine ribs on my mat rather than 5. What are the dimensions of the ribs on the rubbercal mats? The wide rib is the same height as the fine ribs. Unfortunately I am about 900 miles from my car and won't be able to visit it for a few weeks so I can't answer you questions about the dimensions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted November 21, 2015 Author Share Posted November 21, 2015 I'm going through a particularly difficult period in the restoration - nothing but frustration over the last few weeks. It started out when I made inquires into having my manifold coated for protection. The local (well, 50 miles from here) powder-coaters do this all the time and their work looks very good. Just one problem - the manifold on my 32 is a two piece unit held together by four studs and bolts. To sandblast and coat the manifold, I had to separate the two parts as the gasket in between would be destroyed by the heat of the process. Simple - right? I soon discovered this wasn't going to be simple at all. I wire brushed the stud ends and bolts, then soaked the bolt heads for a week, applying solvent every few hours. Then I applied heat to the bolts and tried to loosen them. Every stud broke off - and broke with very little pressure. Why am I not surprised? Even though the bolts and the ends of the studs were off, the intake manifold was rusted solid to the studs. No amount of soaking, heat and cursing would loosen it in any way, shape or form. Finally, I was forced to drill the studs out - no easy job since they are two inches long and I had to go in straight so as not to damage the part. Once most of the stud was gone, I could pry the two parts apart, and after eighty three years they were separated for the fist time. All good except the bases of the studs were basically welded into the exhaust manifold. No way was i going to get them out. I was finally forced to take it to a machinist and he got two of them out and put two inserts into the other two holes (not Helicoils, but actual steel inserts.) as the threads were too far gone. I found a new set of four studs of the correct length and now I'm taking the two manifold parts to the coaters Monday. I have a couple of questions. Does anyone have a source for the gasket the goes between the two manifold parts? I bought some gasket material at NAPA that is designed for exhaust manifolds - a steel core with gasket material on both sides, designed for high heat. It's hard to tell, but it looks a little thinner than what was in there originally. This may just be my imagination, as there was nothing left of the original gasket once I got things apart. I do know that the manifold to block gaskets are thicker and have a raised rib around the orifice to help prevent leaks. I suspect the original gasket may have been formed like this, but I don't know for sure. If anyone has a NOS gasket, let me know. If it's not for sale, at least send me a photo so I can see what it looks like. It's a simple square with four holes, one in each corner. Second, I'm sure there is no gasket sealer or compound used on these exhaust gaskets, but if I'm wrong, let me know. Third, do you recommend using brass nuts on the exhaust studs? Any idea of the correct foot-pound settings? Thanks for any help or advice anyone can offer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Lawson Posted November 21, 2015 Share Posted November 21, 2015 I believe that the gasket would have been constructed of copper /asbestos like the early head gaskets If the two mating surface's are good I cant see using gasket cement is going to be beneficial There is enough "crush" in the gasket to counter any small imperfections My 2249 Senior has brass manifold nuts and I torqued them to 24 ft/lbs Now that you have separated the 2 manifolds you will have to make sure that the mounting surface block side is nice and flat when you reassemble the manifold Hope I have been helpful Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted November 21, 2015 Share Posted November 21, 2015 I would use brass nuts.I use them on manifolds all of the time. That way I know that I probably wont have to take it apart again.As for torque you will have to use a good feel. Just buy a couple of extra nuts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30dodge35 Posted November 21, 2015 Share Posted November 21, 2015 Is this the shape of your gasket, this is the one for 30 six cylinder, , I think it is the same, I have a extra one, Jesse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30dodge35 Posted November 21, 2015 Share Posted November 21, 2015 this is the one i got i know yours is reversed ehaust out back but i think the way manifold go together is the same dimensionthis one is made of gasket material got it in kit from tom at early vintage dodgejesse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted November 21, 2015 Share Posted November 21, 2015 Richard,Went to the Motorclassica the other weekend and I had a good look at a 1932DL.Thought you might be interested to see it and read what they had on the plaque next to it. CheersIan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countrytravler Posted November 21, 2015 Share Posted November 21, 2015 Why did they use the 12 volt system on the exports with ours being 6 volt in the U.S? Also why the smaller engines? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted November 21, 2015 Author Share Posted November 21, 2015 Richard,Went to the Motorclassica the other weekend and I had a good look at a 1932DL.Thought you might be interested to see it and read what they had on the plaque next to it. CheersIanIan,It appears to be a duplicate of my good friend Phil Kennedy's DL. (I bought my car back from Phil.) Hard to tell from the photos, but I think it's painted Mercedes Drab, a rather unfortunate choice in Dodge Brothers color naming. A very nice and original car. Thanks for the photos.RT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted November 21, 2015 Author Share Posted November 21, 2015 this is the one i goti know yours is reversed ehaust out backbut i think the way manifold go together is the same dimensionthis one is made of gasket materialgot it in kit from tom at early vintage dodgejesseJesse,Very close but no cigar. Mine doesn't have the little extra square extension. Mine is just a plain square with bolt holes 3-1/8" on center. As you can see on yours, there are slight raised ridges on the surface around the inside opening that help seal the gasket. I will be missing this if I make it out of a flat piece of gasket material. I sure wish yours would work, and I appreciate the offer. If you get a chance, could you measure the thickness?Thanks,Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30dodge35 Posted November 22, 2015 Share Posted November 22, 2015 Richard, the black one is 5/64 and doesn't have ridge, The copper one on eBay is 1/8 with a ridge, I measured the one for 35 KC it is only 215/16 on center, and flat also, I f I haven't got one, I would have no problem cutting one from gasket material, with no sealant, if surface is flat. good luckJesse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted November 22, 2015 Share Posted November 22, 2015 Why did they use the 12 volt system on the exports with ours being 6 volt in the U.S? Also why the smaller engines? Ours are 6 V (New Zealand). I wonder if the 12 V systems went to UK; most of their cars were 12 V. Also, UK had a "Tax horsepower" based on the cylinder bore squared. This is what Wikipedia says about the British RAC horsepower:"The so-called RAC horse-power formula was concocted in 1910 by the RAC at the invitation of the British government.[1] The British RAC horsepower rating was calculated from total piston surface area (i.e. "bore" only). To minimise tax ratings British designers developed engines of a given swept volume (capacity) with very long stroke and low piston surface area. Another effect was the multiplicity of models: Sevens, Eights, Nines, Tens, Elevens, Twelves, Fourteens, Sixteens etc. each to fit with a taxation class.[2] Larger more lightly stressed engines may have been equally economical to run yet, in less variety, produced much more economically." There may have been other taxes or import duties based on engine size, hence a smaller engine was used for some countries. Other countries in Europe also had horsepower tax rules. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Lawson Posted November 22, 2015 Share Posted November 22, 2015 I believe that Dodge went to 12 volt electrics in 1956 on there Australian models Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted November 22, 2015 Share Posted November 22, 2015 I believe that Dodge went to 12 volt electrics in 1956 on there Australian models Same in the U.S.A. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countrytravler Posted November 22, 2015 Share Posted November 22, 2015 (edited) I believe that Dodge went to 12 volt electrics in 1956 on there Australian models My parts book and the book on Export have 12 volt on the speck sheets. The book is from AU from the 20s to 38 Mopar. They also specked the 37-38 Dodge and Ply with OD. Edited November 22, 2015 by countrytravler (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Lawson Posted November 22, 2015 Share Posted November 22, 2015 Well that is a new one on me All CPDD products that I can remember as a lad all were 6 volt My uncles 3 of them were very faithful Chrysler buyers and they had Dodges Plymouths and De sotos and all were 6 volt My dad purchased a 1957 Plymouth ute and that was 12 volt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted November 22, 2015 Author Share Posted November 22, 2015 Richard, the black one is 5/64 and doesn't have ridge,The copper one on eBay is 1/8 with a ridge,I measured the one for 35 KC it is only 215/16 on center, and flat also,I f I haven't got one, I would have no problem cutting one from gasket material, with no sealant, if surface is flat.good luckJesseThe stuff I bought at NAPA is thinner than that and that has me concerned. If it's too thin there may be alignment problems with the intake portion of the manifold sitting too low. There is no rush as it will take a week or two to get the manifolds coated, and that will give me time to hunt around for a gasket. Thanks for the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Lawson Posted November 22, 2015 Share Posted November 22, 2015 Richard I just had to go down to the work shop and check in the gasket set that I purchased from Tom and Cindy last year at the centennial meet Unfortuneatly the 2249 senior one measures 2 7/8"X 3 1/2" If it was the right size it would be on its way in the Sorry cobber I really wanted to help you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpage Posted November 22, 2015 Share Posted November 22, 2015 I got one in a Fel-Pro gasket kit for a '36 and it is probably the same. I had no fitment problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30dodge35 Posted November 22, 2015 Share Posted November 22, 2015 I have 36 also different size less than 3It seems the 32 is different, Richard ,on eBay is a material for making exhaust gasket, it is ceramic impregnated, not expensive You will have to cut to size, Jesse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted November 22, 2015 Author Share Posted November 22, 2015 Okay, this is what happens when you get old. I got to thinking about the manifold gasket I'm looking for and then it struck me - I bought a complete gasket set when I rebuilt the engine. All the block to manifold gaskets are in there as I used them to determine patterns for masking the block when I painted it. I go out in the garage and check my gasket set box. Right there in front of me are two manifold gaskets of slightly different sizes, one of which fits my manifolds perfectly. Another Duh! moment, but one with a pleasing result for a change. An entire page in this thread on this and it's all for nothing. Thanks for all the kind replies and I'm sorry to have wasted your time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
34dodger Posted November 22, 2015 Share Posted November 22, 2015 Checked my DK stuff and it's gasket is way too large and has 6 holes. Have you tried Olson's Gaskets? http://www.olsonsgaskets.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
34dodger Posted November 22, 2015 Share Posted November 22, 2015 Whoops...didn't see your last post...glad you found the gasket! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bullfrog_eng Posted November 22, 2015 Share Posted November 22, 2015 And glad to see I'm not the only one that does these things!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30dodge35 Posted November 22, 2015 Share Posted November 22, 2015 what were looking for?i think I had another Brain Burp!i am glad you found itJesse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countrytravler Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 My parts book and the book on Export have 12 volt on the speck sheets. The book is from AU from the 20s to 38 Mopar. They also specked the 37-38 Dodge and Ply with OD.I stand corrected, the book is for the England cars. 1924 to 1938 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted December 12, 2015 Author Share Posted December 12, 2015 I'm working through some of the wood parts in the body. Luckily, most of the important parts (the top bows and top structure) are in good shape and will need no replacement. The floorboards are a different matter - they are plywood and all of them have delaminated over the years. I will replace them with marine plywood. One of the problems I've run into concerns the wood supports that fit under the edges of the floorboards and also surround the tool box in the floor. These wood pieces are 1-15/16 of an inch tall so I've had to laminate several pieces of oak together and then plane the assembly down to the correct thickness. This small piece by the tool box was in good shape once I sanded off all the gooey undercoating that had been sprayed all over the underside of the car. I gave it a coat of sealer and then black paint as original and it looked brand new. These pieces are isolated from the frame and the floorboards by strips of black felt material tacked to the wood. I happened to have a roll left over from my 48 Plymouth restoration that is an exact match to the original material. Sometimes you get lucky. The longer piece was too far gone to save. One end had split badly and I had to make a new piece. The replacement is made from oak, laminated and then planed down to the correct width and thickness. The recesses (to clear frame supports) were routed out. Sealed, painted and ready for the felt and final installation. The slot these two pieces forms is for the battery cable to pass through the opening and then through the hole in the back of the tool box where it connects to the battery. It's one long battery cable! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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