Mark Shaw

Dave, I don't know if it would be the same for your model, but the photo below is from my original 1938 Special.

Our son now has the family's 1875 Upright Grand Piano from my wife's great Aunt Ida. It has a beautifully hand carved walnut case and cost around $1500 to get mechanisms restored and tuned over a dozen years ago.

Perhaps this will be more helpful...

I understand that old car generators produce "noisy" power that cause LED issues. That is probably why they work OK on the battery and not while running. Causes and corrective actions The main cause of noise can usually be found in the LED driver of the lamp. With LED lamps, driver electronics are integrated; for example with LED ceiling lights, the driver is usually located in the base. This electronics consists of several components. These include: Switching power supply Coils/chokes LED driver The switching power supply generates the operating voltage for the LED’s from the 120V mains voltage. This part of the electronics contains, among other things, a small transformer for transforming the voltage. Furthermore there are some coils or chokes for the intermediate storage of energy as well as for the avoidance of EMC disturbances. The LED driver usually contains capacitors for smoothing the voltage. https://lamphq.com/noisy-led-lights/

The front end on these Buicks always reminds me of a Manta Ray...

Do you mean one of these?? https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=necker+knob&qpvt=knecker+knob&FORM=IGRE

When I worked summers at a state park in the redwoods, the Maintenance Super used baking soda in water to age new redwood shingles before installation. It seems to neutralize the acidic resins in new redwood to make it grey. You might try it on your maple to see if it works.

Try here: http://www.29buick.ca/

Kevin, Water stains can also be safely removed with oxalic acid. It removes the stains and leave the original wood color. If you want to try it, I have some left over from doing the steering wheel on my 15 speedster. .

Use the citrus to remove the finish and remove the sticky with acetone or lacquer thinner.

I use silver paint from rattle can before mounting tires. The paint gets chipped and scratched during tire changes, so I use a brush to touch-up afterwards. I know others have nickel plated their rims and leave them un-polished for a more durable factory original look that is better than powder coating.

The rockers are manually oiled with the oil can located on the firewall in the early Buicks. Matt, Send me a PM with your email address and I will send you the info you need.

Jack, Thanks for the correction, but January is almost over. Why does it take you three months to post the minutes when the last BCA Secretary did it in just over a week?

Misinformation is one issue. No information is another issue. As of 1/25/2020, the BCA Board Minutes were last posted on the BCA website five months ago on 9/18/2019.

My Buick Barn is a 40' X 60' metal building only ten blocks from home. I often have to go home to get that one tool I need to work on something. So, I suggest you keep a duplicate set of tools at your new shop; floor jack, air system, hand tools, etc. Also, replace the florescent lights with "high Hat" LED lights to get more light for less $$.

https://finemetalrooftech.com/products/terne/

The photo indicates the hinge pin is severely worn because the center part of the hinge is not aligned with the pin. Soak it with 50/50 Acetone and ATF with and without heat for a day or more. Then, center the parts & drive the pin out with a flat punch.

Thanks Brian, A 3-in-1 jump starter is less $$ and provides power for any 12V accessories while providing an air pump to keep your tires properly inflated! You can also easily use the clamps to connect your car's electrical system instead of a car battery. I plug mine in at the hotel to recharge overnight when needed. If it isn't used to jump a dead car, it has enough power to run my GPS, car lights, etc. for a typical 3-4 day car tour. I have rescued many on tour who needed a jump or air for a flat tire. This is the one I carry: https://www.stanleytools.com/products/automotive-tools/power/power-station/500-instant-1000-peak-amp-jump-starter-with-compressor/j5c09

I have used good old Elmer's wood glue for non-structural splits and breaks. I have also used Gorilla Glue for structural parts with good results. IMO; Thin epoxies mentioned above, are more for rotted wood or for hardening wood bodies in preparation for hard automotive paints.

https://www.lexol.com/lexol/products?f[0]=field_product_type%3A84

Car wax is cheap and easy to apply and remove. I protect all my brass cars this way, and it usually lasts two years or more. That's a good return on the investment here in the wet Northwest where I regularly tour all of my cars.

My original 38 Buick Special has the original wood grain transfer on the dash, door and windshield moldings. It is faded, but it is clearly a transfer. The glove box door was evidently replaced or left open and out of the sun because it retains the original color in the transfer.

Way to go Matt! That's an offer that will be hard to refuse! I too suggest Dave as a great parts source. Go for it Scott....