Mark Shaw

Mike, I agree; the moderators should be handling this issue by providing a format for newbies to follow.

IMO, the best portable car shelter (and multipurpose too) is an enclosed car trailer.

There are only five listed in the 2017 BCA Roster, but the AACA, HCCA, & VMCCA may have many more.

I resolve to try to wear out as many old Buick tires as I can this year!

A very Merry Christmas to all...!!

I think you are over reacting to a relatively simple need with a very simple solution. Buy a 12 VDC jump starter with a plug-in for the accessories you want. Then, install 6VDC LED bulbs for your lights and you're done. I use a jump starter to run 12 VDC systems on my brass Buicks. And, it has an air pump that comes in handy too.

You can buy one from Olsen's Gaskets. https://www.olsonsgaskets.com/ But, first and foremost, oil everything! Start with the hood & door hinges so you don't bend or break them while working on other items. Don't get ahead of yourself by diving into the big jobs first. Take your time and only do what you know how to do. Leave the expert jobs to experts.

I believe the gage cluster color is the same as the color on the largest area of the button. The smaller section of the button is black. The insignia colors would be the same as on the grille emblem. My original 38 Special dash is in the photo below.

They list Model 24-51 Brougham Touring Sedan with 4991 units built. " " " X24-51 " " " 24 units built. No Models 24-51A are mentioned.

According to "The Buick a Complete History", the 1924 models were introduced on August 1st, 1923. There was no mention of the different models introduced. However, the year/model descriptions on pg. 408 lists 32 model variations including export models (X designations) listed as different models. 17 models are listed without X designations.

Thanks Keith.

Thanks for the tip, but I did try my local ACE and other hardware stores with little luck when I bought the first taper pin. I had to go to a big hardware store in Portland to get it. Because it literally fell out, I wanted to use a split pin that compresses to fit in the worn tapered hole. And, just for good measure, I put a tight fitting nail in the center of the split pin to reinforce it and capture the pin with the nail head. I also bent the other end to keep it from coming out too. I then put another spare split pin and nail in the zip lock bag I keep with the car for other spares. I still need to run test this car & get everything adjusted before taking it on tours...

I pulled the stuck starter/generator months ago to find out why it was stuck in the extended position; making it impossible to even use the hand crank to turn-over the engine. A friend noticed that the tapered pin in the coupling had slipped out, jammed against the housing, & bent the tapered pin. This made it very difficult to remove because it wasn't easily accessible in the position it had stopped. I actually had to cut off the bent part to remove it and re-install a new roll pin with a nail inside to reinforce it and to keep it from sliding out again. I re-connected all the wiring and put the battery charger on it for a couple of days. This morning I gave it a try and it actually cranked the engine! So now I will finish this car this winter and see what it will do this spring!

I too have used my bench vice to hold the rim between wood blocks to do it almost exactly as Wayne has described. It can be quite difficult to remove a twist near the split. I used two 2 X 4s clamped across the rim to get enough leverage to remove a twist close to the split. It is also important to file the tire bead mating surfaces smooth and rounded so they do not cut into the tire as it flexes over rough roadways.

My Buick buddy Dave Ebert Sr. has a 1923 Sport Roadster with white gages and Spanish leather interior. He advised that only the roadsters had those details. Here is a photo of my 1924 Six "Cut Down" roadster pickup dash.

Bill, The rear springs pull the drive train to the rear. My son and I had to use all-thread to pull the bell housing up to the engine when we swapped his 1929 engine for a rebuilt 1930 engine.

I suggest you should at least list what years & Buick series these pumps will fit.

1941 Buick Sedanette Crate motor. 1996 350 chevy 4 bolt. W/22,000 miles 700r4 trans 12 bolt 373 posi all changed to 4x5 1/2 Volare front end Chopped 3” with rounded door corners 1950 port holes and Pontiac grill Tan diamond interior Runs great Good Kustom cruiser Contact Mike: mikes41buick@gmail.com.

Al, My Standard Catalog shows all cars were chain drive with RH drive. The 1902-1903 Cleveland Touring was a 2 cylinder 15 HP, with a 78" wheel Base. The " " " Roadster was a 1 cylinder (no HP listed) with a 72" wheel Base.

I believe only the engine bore changed in 1932. So, the exhaust manifolds should interchange. However, the intake manifolds may be different if different carbs. were used.

Jon, That GMC may have a Buick engine too; because GMC used Buick engines in their trucks during the 20's. I am not sure how early they did this, but I have a friend with a 1929 GMC with a Buick Master Series Six.

Jon, Since I only have Buicks , I do run into lots of odd ball threads on Marvel and Schebler carbs. My solution is to buy junk carbs and rob the parts, or just solder on standard connections.

Greg, My 1912 Buick has a square drive into the torque tube. I replaced it with a U joint assy. made for PTO farm machinery.

Al, Many restorations have been delayed due to lack of specs. If you plan to have it judged by AACA or others, ask them for the specs. (I doubt they have them) Since there really are none for your car, you can move forward unencumbered. If it were me, I would just build it to the best of my knowledge and have fun with it. Good luck...