Mark Shaw

Also, be sure to shut off the gas & run the engine until it runs out of gas in the float bowl to protect the carburetor from gummy gasoline varnish.

Before you delete it, forward it to: spam@uce.gov

I agree with Larry DiBarry. It sounds like a loose rocker shaft assy. But Gary G's suggestion is an easy first test to see if it is either the fan or water pump. I always try to test for the easy fix items first.

https://www.hirschauto.com/Engine-Enamels/departments/2/

I only go to the Bakersfield Swap Meet in April.

So, what happened to the Maxwell?

These are from a 1931 Model 57 Buick. Not the same, but maybe the inserts will work.

Many Thanks Stuart! Our guy here in the US is a bit flaky.

Try here: http://www.then-now-auto.com/antique-auto-parts/ http://www.classicpreservation.com/fuelpumpkits.html

I too use Ospho as soon as bare metal is exposed by sand blasting etc. It prevents flash rust for up to a year in my wet NW climate. And, unlike Por 15, it is relatively inexpensive and available in most hardware stores. http://ospho.com/

Your spokes do not appear to be in bad shape. However you must check for squeaks and loose spokes before you decide to use them. I prefer natural un-painted wood spoke wheels. I was hesitant to have my 1915 Speedster wheels sand blasted. But when I was shown an example blasted with a softer greensand abrasive I was sold. The blaster told me that if any of the wood was bad, it would be clear to see. Fortunately, all my spokes were good and were ready for varnish on the wood and paint on the fellows when done. Three of my Buicks now have unpainted wood spoke wheels.

Dave, Although your reasoning seems sound, I question why you use the original Buick specs for use with modern fuels that you believe are not meant for your car. You might consider why Buick designed the fuel system to pre-heat the gasolines of the time. You might try the vacuum gage method to tune your engine rather than rely on the original manual with modern gasolines. "In most cases if you use a quality large faced Vacuum gauge, with some experience you can effectively tune your car's fuel and timing systems. Tuning with the engine running compensates for wear in the timing gear and valve train, and therefore providing better results than with the manufacturers recommended settings." https://fordsix.com/ci/Vacuum.html

If you don't have a rim tool as show below, you can use 2 X 4 wood pieces and a jack to spread the rim so the ends meet.

Al, What year and model Buick are you working on? I have one from a 24 or 25 Master Series Buick.

I suggest you verify timing. Retard spark, bring #1 piston to top dead center, and verify that the rotor is lined up with #1 spark plug to fire.

https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/hudson/essex/2298200.html

Bed liner works well too, and will prevent top side paint damage from rocks...

I think you're just showing off that you don't yet have a bald spot! But then, it also shows that you have a beautiful Buick! Congratulations....

This one has the original honeycomb and no rot, but also no nickel...

These are the same as on my 13 Model 31 Buick and I have never seen them for sale online; eBay or Craigslist or on this forum. The Hershey swap is probably your best bet.

Exactly!!

Check the driveline balance...

I agree fully! This reminds me of another car club that dictates only their version of how to enjoy club events.

I quit selling on eBay when they refused to release payment until the buyer posted feedback.

At some point we must all realize the definition of "youth in our hobby" means we should be targeting those who are 40 to 60 years old. Most of those much younger are still raising families & working full time with less disposable income to spend on car hobbies.