Mark Shaw

Only the early 50 series had open drivelines; about half way through the year they all had torque tubes.

Check out this site: https://www.vehiclejack.com/a-complete-guide-to-hydraulic-jack-oil/

Way to go Bill! And, thanks to Peter for making it happen.

I use either Red Coat tank sealer (because I have lots left over), or Krazy glue that is still working after many years. This works on new cork floats but will fail on used floats due to gasoline contamination.

Thanks Peter....

Since this forum is sponsored by the AACA, and the AACA forums are for all enthusiasts, weather they belong to the AACA, BCA, HCCA, etc. So I believe labeling the former Buick categories as BCA categories is inappropriate.

In other words, if the focus point of the reflector does not match the filament location in the new bulbs, factory specs are useless. You have bumper mounted driving lights, so why not use them for added range?

Scroll down to Feb 17th....

IMO, Aftermarket electric fuel pumps should always have an independent on/off switch.

Glad you took it to Jason. I really don't want to part-out a complete unit.

The best tool for removing old hard crusty tires is a reciprocating saw.

I have a spare, but I am away until Thursday.

1908 was the first year for the larger brake drums and no hand brake. Also, in 08 the throttle and spark levers are in the steering wheel sector and not on the steering column. This one appears to be a very original 1908 Model F Touring Car.

https://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/ptd/d/tulsa-buick-pontiac-oldsmobile-bumpers/7170492375.html

This is a Buick B25 series car that only had the wood seat frame, doors and the cowl forward. It has a 165 cu in OHV engine and was the second year for the DELCO electric starter/generator. Buick logo step plates are from a Buick truck and the gas tank is from a larger series Buick roadster.

Sounds pretty normal to me... You can expect some wear, but as long as it shifts OK, you should be good to go.

Buy similar copper or brass screen at a good hardware store and just cut & solder a replacement onto the pickup tube. Or, just wrap a screen bag over the pickup tube and use a wire to secure the top of the bag so it cannot come loose.

John, Backlash should not be an issue since the rotor only travels in one direction. If the drive gear is worn, you could have inconsistent rotation. You can check this by hand cranking the engine with a VOM meter connected to sense when the points fire the #1 spark plug relative to TDC on the flywheel.

I sold my 31 Model 57 so this spare heat riser is for sale. These are very hard to find in this condition, and it comes with a good carb body too... $200 plus shipping from SW WA.

I suggest you replace the hose first to see if it solves your problem.

https://www.ehow.com/how_5673060_measure-resistance-ohm-meter.html

Early Buicks that have a threaded hole in the exhaust manifold that can be used to pressurize the gas tank. My 1913 Model 31 Buick has this modification (with a an inline spark arrestor) that has performed perfectly with no moving parts for many years. The back pressure from the muffler provides the perfect pressure to keep fuel supplied to the carb for those long uphill runs....

I took my newly completed 1915 "Bumble Buick" for a test drive yesterday after fixing the LR wheel mounting. The keyways in the axle and wheel hub did not match, & needed a step key to eliminate "chucking". Also, the hub was not fully mounted on the taper of the axle because it needed a thicker washer with a larger I.D. to allow the axle nut to fully seat the hub on the taper. My good friend Capt. Bob made the step key and I reworked the washer on my lathe. After fixing these mounting issues, I also found the brake shoe was not aligned with the drum. So I had to straighten the short brake rod (which made it slightly longer) to pull the brake shoe inward. The car performed well on the test run, and quickly got into third gear and was still gaining speed in the short two blocks in front of my house. The RR tire chirped on the pavement when I stopped, so I still need to adjust the LR brake. Nobody was around to take a photo while I was driving, so here is an older photo of the "Bumble Buick".

I have run two sets of Lester tires on my 1913 Model 31 Buick over many years. They are good tires, ride smooth, and wear well.