Mark Shaw

IMO, WW tires are a pain in the a** to keep clean, cost more, and therefore should only be installed on the top-of-the-line cars. The lower end of the model year cars would typically have BW tires since the original owners probably couldn't afford the high end cars.

Raise your hand if you drove at least one old Buick this weekend - Page 107 - Buick - General - Antique Automobile Club of America - Discussion Forums (aaca.org)

I finally got my 1931 Buick Model 67 inspected by the WA State Patrol this morning. It was recently gifted to me by an old Buick buddy that passed away. It is a non-runner that was loaded into my trailer via winch. But today it was unloaded via starter motor in reverse gear. The driveway into my storage barn is up hill. A friend and I tried to push it out of the trailer but didn't have the push to get it done. So, I "drove it" out and into the barn using the starter motor while in reverse. It worked nice and slow as my friend directed me from the rear. Now I can start working on freeing-up the stuck valves to get it running. I already have a pony tank set up so I can drive it 10 blocks to my home shop where I can install the missing fuel pump and get it ready for touring.

Agreed!

Here you go... From Audels Automobile Guide Copyrights: 1938-1942

It is "The Bumble Buick".

The tough part is replicating the wood header where the mechanism mounts. A friend who had a complete wood shop helped me make one for a 29 Buick. It literally took all day to get it right.

A few days ago, I was driving my 15 Buick Speedster the 10 blocks from the Storage Barn to my home shop to prepare it for winter storage. It ran great for 8 blocks when I hit a bump, & it backfired and quit. It would crank, but would not re-start. So I called my wife and got her to bring a tow strap & my Yukon to tow it 2 more blocks to my home shop where a couple of neighbors helped me push it into my home shop. I found a blown fuse under the dash and thought it had bounced and shorted. That was an easy fix with a new fuse and some split wire insulation to protect it from happening again. Nope, it still would crank, but wouldn't start. So I pulled a plug, grounded the body and had my wife check for spark while I cranked it, and still had no spark. I pulled the distributor cap to inspect for a grounded wire or burnt points, and found a little ball of solder about the size of a BB stuck under the points post and the distributor body! It must have been loose inside the distributor until I hit that bump to lodge under the points post. I pulled it out with tweezers and finally had a good spark again. I always solder my electrical connections, but learned from this problem to thoroughly check for any solder droppings before buttoning up the job. I completed an oil change & lube complete by oiling all brake rod clevis joints and gave each grease cup a turn. I also checked the transmission and rear end lube and adjusted the ring and pinion engagement as it was making more noise than it should. We will see when it stops raining long enough to drive it back to the barn.... Update: Drove back to the barn yesterday with no issues. The rear end sounded better too!

Here is another similar saying...

It does look a lot like it might be from a 29 Buick, but it doesn't have the spark advance markings. Maybe a bit later??

Two days ago, I was driving my 15 Buick Speedster the 10 blocks from the Storage Barn to my home shop to prepare it for winter storage. It ran great for 8 blocks when I hit a bump, & it backfired and quit. It would crank, but would not re-start. So I called my wife and got her to bring a tow strap & my Yukon to tow it 2 more blocks to my home shop where a couple of neighbors helped me push it into my home shop. I found a blown fuse under the dash and thought it had bounced and shorted. That was an easy fix with a new fuse and some split wire insulation to protect it from happening again. Nope, it still would crank, but wouldn't start. So I pulled a plug, grounded the body and had my wife check for spark while I cranked it, and still had no spark. I pulled the distributor cap to inspect for a grounded wire or burnt points, and found a little ball of solder about the size of a BB stuck under the points post and the distributor body! It must have been loose inside the distributor until I hit that bump to lodge under the points post. I pulled it out with tweezers and finally had a good spark again. I always solder my electrical connections, but learned from this problem to thoroughly check for any solder droppings before buttoning up the job. I completed an oil change & lube complete by oiling all brake rod clevis joints and gave each grease cup a turn. I also checked the transmission and rear end lube and adjusted the ring and pinion engagement as it was making more noise than it should. We will see when it stops raining long enough to drive it back to the barn....

I have a Bosch Magneto Instructions booklet that I can email to you. This site will not accept the MS Word format. Just send me your email address and I will send it to you. Mark Shaw durcodude@comcast.net

IMO, corrosion is the big problem to avoid. On a "Chasing Classic Cars" episode a guy had a disassembled engine & put the crankshaft in a bucket of oil for many years to keep it from rusting. It was pristine when removed from the bucket.

Terry, The early Buick pumps are located near the bottom of the engine and therefore must lift coolant to the top of the radiator and overcome significant friction losses through the water jacket. You might be surprised to see 2-3 psi if you put a pressure gauge on the discharge side of an early Buick pump. Pressure will vary with the overall height of the engine/radiator and how much crud is restricting flow within the engine's cooling jacket and radiator.

My car buddy Capt. Bob just finished his 1911 Cadillac Demi Tonneau and will be 82 tomorrow. He is still working on his all original 1932 Ford Sedan (already a driver).

You might try here: SMS Auto Fabrics - The Largest Selection of Classic Auto Interiors

I had a 31-57 & had the same experience.

Yes, I expect it would be 1/2".

Try here: Buick Heritage Alliance | Archives

It is also important to know that impeller diameter & speed determines the pressure produced. Since the early cars had low pressure cooling systems, GM could not significantly increase pump size without changing pressure sensitive components like the radiators used to cool the engine and passenger compartment heaters. Basically, the same size pump body was used with different impeller designs in early Buicks. Straight vane pumps in early 4 cylinder cars are not as efficient as pumps with curved vanes. So, I believe GM curved the vanes for better flow efficiency in later years to compensate for larger engines without changing overall pump size.

I have one for a 1931 50 series Buick available with no breaks or cracks. Send me a PM if interested.