Mark Shaw

Each of the two jugs should have a coolant jacket drain valve between the pistons. You can check the color of the coolant in each jug to determine which jug is leaking. Coolant should be milky if contamination goes both ways.

I was not asking about the horizontal tubes. I am asking about the vertical tube inside the heat riser above the carb.

OK, but was the steel tube inside the heat riser replaced and the riser re-installed?

Have you checked your heat riser tube for holes?

Ethain, The original REMY low tension mags were most often replaced with a Bosch DU4. (Most agree that Bosch mags are best). My Model was fitted with a BERLING when I got it, but I have a DU4 to replace it when it dies.

Ethain, I have the same car and can help with valves and cages. How many do you need? Original tire size is 30 X 3.5" which translates to a 23" wheel. Please advise your location...

Ben, That is one of the best statements I have seen on this forum; and I completely agree with regard to "judged shows".

I suggest you first make a "clutch depressor". Make a stick that will hold the clutch fully depressed when it is parked for more than a day or two. Read the following: Marvel Carburetors One of the most condemned and abused components in Buicks from the teens to the early thirties is the infamous Marvel Carburetor. Many Buick owners have plugged their exhaust heat systems and either replaced their original Marvel Carburetor with a Zenith, Carter BB1, or some other updraft carburetor. Some just gave up and flipped their intake manifold to install a more fuel efficient downdraft carburetor to improve both performance and mileage in their cars. I still run original Marvel Carburetors in most of my Buicks. I use full choke from a cold start & usually need to keep the choke out 1/3 to 1/2 until the engine warms up. This seems to be normal for Buicks with or without working exhaust heat systems. Mileage & performance is not as good as downdraft carburetors, but I believe that keeping these old girls going with their original equipment is part of the pleasure in driving and maintaining these old cars. The older they are the more simple they are... If you have Marvel carb issues, first give it a good cleaning and check the cork float. Replace it if needed and set the fuel level just below the top of the lower jet. Make sure the air spring (inside the big adjustment knob) has a bulge in the middle or verify that it is original. If it is a straight spring, it may be the wrong spring. Set the big knob even with the tang and open the bottom fuel screw about 1 1/2 turns to start. It should start and idle with these settings.... The most common cause of Marvel Carburetor problems seems to be the need to replace the 70-80 year old cork float. I know that many prewar Buick owners struggle to get their Marvel Carburetors to work properly with these old dried up cork floats. It would be rare for such old cork floats to work reliably, so they must be either be replaced & coated to prevent saturation. The purpose of the float is not just to start and stop fuel flow to the engine; it also continuously maintains the correct fuel level at the jets. The jets are carefully sized to atomize fuel to supply the correct volume of fuel & air to the engine at all operating speeds. If the air control knob is not properly adjusted or the fuel level is too high or too low, the jets will either starve or flood the engine. Sound familiar? I have several old books and manuals that troubleshoot and/or explain the various designs and theories of how all kinds carburetors work. I also have Harold Sharon’s book “Understanding Your Brass Car” that explains how any do-it-yourself amateur can replace the cork in an updraft carburetor to drastically improve performance. Harold explains in simple terms how you can use “Crazy Glue” & wine corks to make a replacement cork float to fit in almost any carburetor. He also states that coating the cork is not necessary. I expect that gasoline additives & ethanol in modern gasoline would probably dissolve any of the old recommended shellac coatings and gum up everything anyway. But, I know that model airplane dope or Crazy Glue can be used to seal cork floats from modern gasolines. Another potential problem with Marvel Carburetors is with the brass jets that sometimes develop small cracks. Plug one end of the jet with your finger and suck or blow to determine if there are cracks. These cracks can easily be soldered to solve the problem. Just run a drill bit with the same inside diameter through the jet after soldering to make sure excess solder does not restrict flow. The ultimate alternative is to flip the intake manifold and bolt on a Rochester carburetor from a "Stovebolt Six" GM engine. There are several models of this carburetor with and without automatic choke. My son is considering doing this on his 29 Buick. If you keep all the original parts, this modification can easily be reversed if you or the next owner prefers to show the car. __________________

"Wood Swell & Lock" is used by furniture restorers to swell the spindles in chairs etc.

Based on just what you have reported, the needle valve/seat that is operated by the float needs to be re-seated. Lap the needle/seat using a fine valve grinding compound or tooth paste. Be sure to test the seal with static pressure after re-seating. You should also test the jets to make sure they are not cracked. Remove and suck on each jet with your finger plugging the end to make sure it holds vacuum. Cracks can be sealed with solder and drilled out after to remove excess solder.

Well done Mark...!

Tom, I suggest you first try connecting a second ground to the starter/Generator to see if it will motor when the ignition is on. (Do the simple troubleshooting stuff first...)

Call Dave Tacheny to see if he can help. 763-427-3460 good luck.

Only the early 50 series had open drivelines; about half way through the year they all had torque tubes.

Check out this site: https://www.vehiclejack.com/a-complete-guide-to-hydraulic-jack-oil/

Way to go Bill! And, thanks to Peter for making it happen.

I use either Red Coat tank sealer (because I have lots left over), or Krazy glue that is still working after many years. This works on new cork floats but will fail on used floats due to gasoline contamination.

Thanks Peter....

Since this forum is sponsored by the AACA, and the AACA forums are for all enthusiasts, weather they belong to the AACA, BCA, HCCA, etc. So I believe labeling the former Buick categories as BCA categories is inappropriate.

In other words, if the focus point of the reflector does not match the filament location in the new bulbs, factory specs are useless. You have bumper mounted driving lights, so why not use them for added range?

Scroll down to Feb 17th....

IMO, Aftermarket electric fuel pumps should always have an independent on/off switch.

Glad you took it to Jason. I really don't want to part-out a complete unit.

The best tool for removing old hard crusty tires is a reciprocating saw.

I have a spare, but I am away until Thursday.