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Worldwide

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About Worldwide

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  • Birthday 06/05/1946

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  1. Your Knowledge is appreciated. The rebuilder suggested ceramic sealed on start up. I did that yesterday and have yet to see how it works out. I flushed out both drain cocks on the jugs. one had appreciable bits if hard crud. I assume it hadn't been drained for years. I have brass galley on the left side of the engine but that is for oil. I would like to follow up your suggestion re a rusted out core plug. How do I investigate that?
  2. Thank you for your help. It was exhaust valve backpressure. Pin holes in the block near valve cage were sealed and problem solved. I lapped the float needle. Engine starts and runs well now. The oil turns green quickly indicating water contamination. This one has me stumped as the plugs are dry.
  3. I have replaced the float with a synthetic one as well as honing out the seat slightly. The float bench tests well but floods when cranked. I had back pressure from a faulty exhaust cage but had that repaired. I don't think there is any back pressure. The solution seems to evade me. any help would be appreciated as I want to keep the brass carb.
  4. I have a 1910 Buick model 10 that news a new carb. Will a Ford Model A or Model B work and if so which is more suitable. I cant seem to get my Schebler float to seal.
  5. My 1910 Buick 10 needs a new carb to complete the total engine rebuild and get back on the road. Is there a recommended replacement for the brass Schebler Model D, as I can't seem to prevent flooding on start up, even with a new synthetic float. Any help would be much appreciated.
  6. It is dripping a small amount, enough to leave marks on the driveway.
  7. Hints needed for real wheel seal replacement. Does the axle require removal? 1930 Stutz Blackhawk.
  8. I'm installing my newly rebuilt engine. Does anyone know the recommended oil capacity?
  9. Complete restoration in 1970, Paint is showing its age. 52,000 original miles used for monthly car club events in British Columbia. Owner would like someone a little younger to enjoy this fine automobile. $42,300 contact dmlott08@gmail.com.
  10. I could use some direction as to how to install 12 volt starter to my 1910 Buick. Getting harder to crank as the years go by.
  11. I think an impulse coupler is the way to go. Is info available as to degrees of spark retard for 4 cyl. I would like to install myself rather than send it out. I see them on ebay but which one?
  12. Thanks for the heads up. The mag is a Bosch DU4. It sparks but my 70 year old heart can't spin it fast enough to start. There is an old "Splitdorf" box on the firewall marked "battery/off/magneto". Only a simple kill switch is currently hooked up. It must have been changed at some time. I would like to hook up a battery for starting if possible. Doug
  13. Thanks for the tip re Bosch mag. I'll try and find a supplier. I posted 2 pics of the existing magneto. Can anyone identify it for me? The car is currently on the west coast of BC. Our family did a frame off restoration in 1970 and the car has sat in storage most of the time. Once I have it running well I will do a full redo stripping all the cracked lacquer. The garage is cleared out and I have nothing but time. New gears were cut for the rear end and apparently top speed is around 30 mph.
  14. I have just inherited a 1910 McLaughlin Buick with magneto ignition. The spark is weak and I would like to add a 6 volt battery to run full time. Is what I need a buzz box and how do I go about it? Any help would be appreciated.
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