Mark Shaw

My car buddy Capt. Bob just finished his 1911 Cadillac Demi Tonneau and will be 82 tomorrow. He is still working on his all original 1932 Ford Sedan (already a driver).

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I had a 31-57 & had the same experience.

Yes, I expect it would be 1/2".

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It is also important to know that impeller diameter & speed determines the pressure produced. Since the early cars had low pressure cooling systems, GM could not significantly increase pump size without changing pressure sensitive components like the radiators used to cool the engine and passenger compartment heaters. Basically, the same size pump body was used with different impeller designs in early Buicks. Straight vane pumps in early 4 cylinder cars are not as efficient as pumps with curved vanes. So, I believe GM curved the vanes for better flow efficiency in later years to compensate for larger engines without changing overall pump size.

I have one for a 1931 50 series Buick available with no breaks or cracks. Send me a PM if interested.

If you suspect a sticking valve, try 2 oz. of Marvel or two cycle oil per ten gallons of gas. Take it out for a drive and get it up to full temp. Then park it and see if it still misses. Just putting a bit of oil on each valve/spring wouldn't hurt either.

OK, will do. I only have Buicks....

John, You seem to be getting unnecessarily blunt and perhaps a bit ignorant about BB1 carbs. I run BB1 carbs on my 08 Model F and 13 Model 31 Buicks with very satisfying results. Both cars originally had beautiful brass Schebler carbs that would run well at idle or at full speed, but never both. Not all Schebler carbs are bad, but these early primitive carbs with auxiliary air valves were often replaced with more modern venturi style carbs like the BB1. Over the years, BB1 carbs were fitted on 15 different brands of cars & trucks as original equipment, but many more were fitted as aftermarket carbs to solve the limitations of original equipment carbs that didn't perform as well. They were made with reversible linkage in several sizes to fit lots of different engines with adjustments not available in Scheblers and others. However, the BB1 carbs are not always the best retrofit carbs either. I do run Zenith Model A carbs on my 12 Model 34 and 15 C25 Speedster because they are sized right for the 165 cu in Buick engines, and are very simple and inexpensive. I bought three from a Model A guy for only $15 each and rebuilt two using parts from the third.

Good job! That's what almost all the original tubes look like. Your local muffler shop should be able to expand smaller tubing to fit. Good luck,

Jumper installed and cowl lights and high beam headlights come on together now....

Marty, I agree. Since these are single filament bulbs that get reduced voltage for "low beams", and full voltage for "high beams", they are still aimed the same.

The bulbs were OK, so I did some troubleshooting. The High/low beam coil contact needed cleaning and adjustment. So, after removing the seat bottom and contorting my relatively inflexible body, I managed to remove the ignition/light switch assy. I cleaned the contact and adjusted the copper strap to add some contact pressure & got the headlight working again. Now I am wondering if I should just jumper the coil so I get high beams all the time. I really don't expect to drive at night with low beams. This switch assy. is a bugger to re-install, and I don't want to do this again...

I agree and use Olsen's for all my Buicks. Engine Gaskets for the Antique Market - Olson's Gaskets

Check out the series of YouTube videos on a Buick Straight 8 Engine. Buick Straight 8 long block assembly | Redline Update #64 - YouTube

Drovak, You will see sealant on the threads of the head bolts because some of them penetrate into the cooling jacket. The small heat exchangers on the side of the engine are notorious for leaking coolant into the oil. Most restorers have removed the small "radiator" and bypassed with copper tubing inside the housing.

Sorry Hugh, but a smooth tube will work better aerodynamically than one with holes. The heat riser is where the air/fuel mixes and needs to maintain velocity for mixing. Drovac, I used a stainless tube for one of my Buicks. I lubricated it with grease and used a press to install it. However, it broke one of the internal shoulders at the bottom of the casting. Be sure to measure both ends of the internal casting to get exactly the right sized tube. My 1924 Buick Master tube was replaced with aluminized exhaust tubing from a local muffler shop's scrap bin. It worked perfectly. Good luck...

Chloride stress corrosion in stainless fasteners is another consideration for those who live and/or store their cars near salt water environments (not that anybody would want to do this). I worked for a large manufacturer of industrial pumps & valves made in a variety of materials from cast iron-zirconium. Although we made various stainless alloy valves, we never used stainless fasteners for stainless valves to be used in chloride environments like chlorine plants or sites near salt water. Over time, chloride stress cracking eventually causes fastener failures that can result in fasteners becoming projectiles! What is stress-corrosion cracking and why does it occur? | Fastener Engineering

Last evening, I drove my 1924 Buick Master Series PU from the Buick barn to my home shop. I will give it a full lube job & winter prep for storage until the Covid limits are lifted. Several neighbors will still out walking their dog or doing last minute yard work in the early evening. They all smiled and waived as I drove by with only my cowl lights on. Evidently, headlight bulb replacements are also on the punch list!

It seems to be more of a lemon to me. Hopefully, there is a lemon law where Matt lives. I bought a 2019 GMC Yukon Denali just over a year ago, & love it. I too had my dealer find me one in the color I wanted, with 2nd row bench seat, & no useless back seat video player. It is my all-around vehicle for towing my Buicks, long road trips, and around town errands. The heated seats and steering wheel get warm half way to my Buick barn just ten blocks away. I could use the remote start to get the seats and steering wheel warm and defrost the windows before driving it, but I park it in the garage every night. My only complaint is that GM charges for navigation updates. Evidently, GM is ignoring the fact that most of their customers can and do get free navigation on their cell phones..... Matt, I suggest you investigate your state's lemon law.....

If the engine has not been run for awhile, don't forget to add a little oil to each cylinder before testing.

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Maybe for a swamp cooler bracket?