Mark Shaw

It seems ahat if I use an 85-87 Regal nose, I will also need a new hood. Mark Shaw

It appears to be a flat bed? Mark Shaw

For sale by second owner (forwarded from a friend) 1964 Wildcat 2 door hardtop Lots of factory options including AC, PW, Pwr Antenna, Bucket seats, Cruise, Center console w/floor shifter 425 w/4bbl carb and Automatic Recent work includes Brakes, and booster Plugs/wires/cap, etc. Good radial tires Owner has tons of documentation including the original order sheet. The car runs, drives well and stops well but will need restoration. It was hit recently and needs a left front fender, grill and bumper and will also need patch panels due to rust in front of and behind rear wheels. Much of the trim has been removed but is in good shape. For more pictures, reply to this email. Asking price is $2300 or best offer. Pat Gardiner, the owner, can be reached on 503 254 9482 or pat_gardiner@comcast.net Mark Shaw

Cast Iron is the way to go. It will wear better than carbon steel or stainless while providing the necessary heat transfer to make your brakes last longer. Cast iron pipe can be used to make sleeves. Mark Shaw

Check out the BrassBuicks site on Yahoo. Mark Shaw

Yes, this is commonly called a "Rim Tool". I have used them many times to replace tires on my prewar Buicks. They make the job of removing and installing tires on split rims much easier. Remove the rim and tire assy from the wheel and release the air from the tire. Place the rim tool inside the rim and extend the screw leg next to the clamp to release the pressure on the clamp. Unclamp the rim and remove the rim tool. Using your tire iron, pry the rim from the tire by forcing the rim to spiral away from the tire. (This makes the rim smaller than the ID of the tire and allows easy removal) Partially inflate the new tube and use corn starch to lubricate the new tube and flap. Insert the tube and flap evenly within the tire. Place the rim inside the tire by prying the spiral out of the rim while inserting it into the tire. Insert the rim tool and extend the screw leg next to the clamp until you can latch the clamp. Inflate the tire while checking the clamp to be sure it stays clamped. Congratulations, you just changed the tire! Mark Shaw

I just got back from a BCA meeting in Chehalis WA with the North Cascade Chapter, the Seattle Chapter, and the Portland Chapter. I am guessing we had almost thirty attending for a great meal where we all got to know each other a little better. After dinner, we discussed several joint activities where all three clubs can participate and support each other. There was lots of discussion about the caravan to this year's national meet, as well as other meets, tours, and picnics. We all agreed to compare our calanders earlier to avoid scheduling conflicts and share announcements to get more participation. We even elected a new Pacific Northwest Region Director, but I don't want to steal anybody's thunder or tip off the new director......since he wasn't at the meeting. It is always a good idea to go to all the meetings...... Mark Shaw BCA PWD Director

Barry, Pressure times area equals force; The pressure limit on most pneumatic systems is 150 PSIG, therefore,it would take lots more piston area to push a heavy bumper than a hydraulic ram operating at 500 PSIG. Regarding seals; For our larger pneumatic cylinders, we hard chrome plate the ID of steel cylinders and use molydisulfide grease to lube the piston seals and noryl (nylon dirivitive) piston wear rings. (Low temperature grease is used in Alaska and Canada.) To save weight, we also offer fiberglass reinforced plastic cylinders (this if for AWWA standards typically used in municipal applications). These large cylinders are part of a scotch yoke type (heavy duty) actuator used for high torque valve automation requirements. Many of our competitors do not chrome plate the ID of the cylinders and experience pitting corrosion due to condensation within the cylinder bore. This is caused by the pressure cycling of humid air. This may be too much info, but you asked. Mark Shaw

Trust me, it will warm up without a thermostat. Just let it run for ten minutes before you drive it, and it will be fine. I usually have to run it slightly choked for a couple of miles before I can push the choke all the way in.

Thanks for he insight.

All I can tell by the photo is that it is a spring compensating sprayer similar to those used by Winton.

How about a carter BB-1 universal carb? One of the favorite carbs used to convert from originals that do not have enough adjustments.

Check it out on Ebay if you need parts. Mark Shaw Vancouver, WA.

I respect your two cents as it does apply for museum pieces. But for those who actually drive their old cars on several tours each year, loosing heavy gear lube is not just messy;...it can be expensive too. When my gear case "wallowed out" enough to dump half of the 250wt gear oil on the hotel parking lot overnight and had to be replenished each day, I fixed the leak. Mark Shaw Vancouver, WA.

Barry, Just like a convertible car;.... you can put the top down! I have different sized sedans and open touring cars that I towed in my big heavy enclosed trailer. After outfitting my truck with mirror extensions to see down the sides, and paying for lots of extra fuel to pull that big "air brake" down the road, I wondered why I had to use such a tall wide trailer. I still had my older open trailer that towed my sedans just fine, but it didn't protect the open cars from the elements (both criminal and weather related). I realized that I had the big trailer just so I could drive my cars into it and walk out through a door. Thats when I decided to build a convertible trailer that can be adjusted to fit the height of each car. This should significantly reduce fuel consumption for the tow vehicle and it can still be converted to an open trailer to haul other stuff. I plan to winch the cars in and out just like your "Toybox" trailer. Mark Shaw Vancouver, Wa.

My son found a 54 4 door special straight runner for $3000. Chrome needs to be redone, so since you seem to be an expert, what do you think it is worth? Mark Shaw Vancouver, WA.

I only want to replace the nose piece in front of the hood; not the whole front clip. Do you know of any interchange manual that may show what will bolt up? Thanks, Mark Shaw Vancouver, WA.

That's the one! Thanks, Mark Shaw Vancouver, WA.

Roberta, I sent John and email, so we'll see what happens. Thank you for the referral. Mark Shaw Vancouver, WA.

I saw a web site a few months ago (I can't find it now) where somebody put a Buick Grand National turbo engine assy. and nose on an El Camino. I have an 85 El Camino that I would like to convert to a Buick El Camino. I really don't want to do exactly the same thing, but I thought it sould be fun to have a Buick El Camino to tow my 15 Buick Speedster. I am just looking for a Buick nose piece (CENTURY, CENTURY CUSTOM, CENTURY LIMITED, CENTURY T-TYPE, REGAL) that should just bolt onto the GM "A body" of the El Camino. Can anybody help with parts or advice? Mark Shaw Vancouver, Wa.

Welcome! What is the story on the 1918? Do you intend to keep it? Do you have some photos to share? Where are you located? Mark Shaw Vancouver, Wa.

Barry, Excellent, just let me know if you want to source Automax actuators. I have a whole list of distributors, and who knows, somebody may owe me a favor. I just started adapting my old open car trailer to become a "convertable" enclosed trailer. I will make a new post when I get a little farther along. Mark Shaw Vancouver, WA.

Dave, Glad you found this. Keep up the good work! Mark Shaw Vancouver, Wa.

Barry, What happens to your angle when the weight of the car shifts to the rear during loading & unloading? Do you plan to have folding jack stands near the ramp hinges? Mark Shaw Vancouver, WA.

Geeze, I've been found out! Yes, I do work for Flowserve Flow Control Division. Mark Shaw Vancouver, Wa.