Mark Shaw

Moore Moto-Meter on a 1912 Model 34 Buick Roadster

Why not just coat it with gas tank sealer like Red Kote?

Follow up.... Persistence pays. Since I could not reach the seller to get her signature, I called the WA State Dept. of Revenue at 11AM. The recording said the office was closed due to COVID, but said I could leave a message that would be answered within one hour. At 4:15 PM, I got a call back and I explained my situation regarding my 100+ year old vehicle registration attempts. The gentleman gave me his email address to send my docs and said he would establish value by referencing his database and call me back. I also advised him that I personally restored the vehicle and paid sales tax on all the materials needed for the restoration. He called back and provided me with the required document indicating that the value was what was on the original bill of sale + just over $100 in admin. fees. I took all the documents to the DOL and got my registration and plate this morning. Happy Day! The bottom line is that there is more than one way to get it done if you don't trust the clerks at the DMV or DOL.

I just need to vent and warn others of the challenging requirements to register collector vehicles in WA State. I purchased a project car in 2001 with only a bill of sale. I just finished the restoration and conversion to a 1915 speedster. First I went to the DMV and was told I had to get it inspected. I had to wait almost 3 months to get an appt. to get it inspected by the WA State Patrol. Then, I went back to the DMV and was told I needed a DOR (Compliance Dealer Declaration) or Declaration of Value at time of first use. (See Below) This is a new requirement. Basically, they want to know the current value to establish the collectable sales tax after restoration. This is a new WA State Law: Chapter 82.12 RCW passed in 2021. It's just another hoop to jump through to get collector cars registered and licensed. Even after I provide this document, the DOL will only provide me with a three year registration without a title. So, I must then wait three years to apply for a valid title. Since I have already waited the three years for my registered 1912 Buick title, I asked for that title and was told the 1912 four digit frame number (VIN number) showed in their records as a horse trailer and could not be titled. So, I wonder how they registered it??? I am just about ready to throw up my hands and use license plates from my other cars instead of jumping through more hoops with WA State. And, when I do sell a collector car, it will be with just a bill of sale.

Mike, This is from the 15 Buick Delco manual.

Geoff, Just read this web page and decide if you have a race car or not. Light flywheels: pros and cons – Infinite-Garage (infinitegarage.com)

My $0.02.... Do the easy stuff first.... First, just replace the fuel filter & see it the pump still works before you drop the tank.

Most vehicle manufacturers used wheels from other vendors. Look closely at the wheel/rim and lugs to see if there is a manufacturer stamp to ID the wheels. Then post photos and ID so the correct wheel bolts can then be found.

Year, make and model of the vehicle???

This is a good deal for anyone with a 1927-28 Master series Buick. The seller need not disassemble it since there is risk of breaking off the cover screws. IMO, the buyer should assume that risk. This presents an opportunity to rebuild a spare with a new SS shaft and a replacement bronze impeller (if needed) since these parts are often corroded.

I find it interesting that nobody has asked the owner if this car is to be a driver or a judged show car. It seems that all previous responders have assumed it is to be a show car, and that resale value will be based on points judging.

If the ends of the shoes contact the drum first, they will squeal. So, the first thing I would try is to bevel the ends of the brake material and verify the brake material is not out of round.

Try Olsen's Gaskets. Engine Gaskets for the Antique Market - Olson's Gaskets (olsonsgaskets.com)

Ruby is a 1908 Model F Buick Scooter is a 1912 Model 34 Roadster The Bumble Buick is a 1915 C25 Speedster This 1931 Model 67 Buick is Michelle (named after a previous owner)

Robert, Of course I am a bit biased, but I suggest you stick with the more modern Buick engine. A rebuild will be much more cost effective than adapting the Caddy engine to the Buick. I suggest you might sell the Caddy to pay for the Buick restoration. My $0.02

I may have one from a 1931 Model 57 that could be the same. Please post dimensions...

Yes, it needs the gaskets..

The generally accepted terminology would be "orifice plate", regardless if it was made from a washer or a freeze plug. "An orifice plate is a device used for reducing pressure or for restricting flow."

24 & 26 Buicks have similar heat control set-ups.

The rod on the back side of the carb that extends to a valve on the exhaust down pipe is for the heat control system.

Got back from the Modoc tour last Friday. Yesterday I got it all back together after replacing the five worn steering linkage pins and removed steering column to clean up and re-lube the bushings. Then I washed it and drove it around the neighborhood to verify the steering is now tight and it turns more easily. The next door neighbors were entertaining their grandchildren in the front yard, so everyone got a ride in the Buick.

No, my car only has a heater. I would expect it may have been standard on the larger series Buicks. So, perhaps the variable speed defroster was only offered as an option on the 38 Specials?

Brian, are you sure it is original equipment for a 38 Special or is it for a larger series Buick? My original Special does not have one.

It is not an original Buick part. I suspect it may have been wired in series with the heater control to regulate the fan speed. Just my $0.02...

My 1931 Model 67 has 19" wheels.