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gward1211

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  1. Let's kill this topic. Thanks to all for your advice. I will not lighten the flywheel. Kind regards Geoff
  2. Perhaps I didn't explain it well. Double shuffling going up a hill is fine and I can generally do it without a crash. However, already travelling slow in top gear, by the time I double shuffle into 2nd, the forward motion has almost stopped and is too slow for second (a pretty steep hill). This is not a flywheel problem. The other situation I encounter is when going up a not so steep hill at higher revs in a low gear, when the time comes and you think you can change up, in waiting for the engine to slow down to get into a higher gear, a lot of the speed has washed off and becomes too slow for the higher gear. This is the flywheel problem I had in mind when I asked about lightening the flywheel. Kind regards Geoff
  3. OK I hear you. Don't touch the flywheel. To be able to slow to idle in top gear is still an advantage in traffic. Changing down on steeper hills is the problem with a heavy flywheel. Kind regards Geoff Ward What I mean is, if I start a climb up a hill and eventually have to change down, by the time the engine revs slow down enough to get it into 2nd gear, it has almost stopped forward movement and is ready for first gear. By that time it becomes a stationary hill start. Not good if you are in fast-moving traffic. Kind regards Geoff
  4. Hi all IIn a previous posting, I was encouraged to discard the new, non-Buick cast iron pistons in my 28 Master and replace them with aluminium ones. What will be crucial in this decision is whether the cast iron pistons are the correct height. Is anyone able to tell me what the distance should be between the deck and the piston at tdc? Alternatively, what is the measurement from the top (or centre) of the gudgeon pin to the top of the piston. Kind regards Geoff Ward
  5. OK I hear you. Don't touch the flywheel. To be able to slow to idle in top gear is still an advantage in traffic. Changing down up on steeper hills is the problem with a heavy flywheel. Kind regards Geoff Ward
  6. Hello again The flywheel of a 1928 Master weighs 107lbs, whereas a Standard 6 flywheel weighs only 61lbs. This seems to me to be a lot of unnecessary weight. Has anyone had any experience with a lightened flywheel on a Master? If so, how much weight was removed and what was the result? Kind regards Geoff Ward
  7. Thanks everyone. Kind regards Geoff
  8. Thanks Terry and OldTech. Yes, I don't know where new cast iron pistons came from. Maybe they were readily available 25 years ago. It would be nice to get some aluminium pistons. Would the crankshaft and Al pistons have to be re-balanced?
  9. Hugh, many thanks for the comments. I have now attached some photos of the damaged main bearing. What do you think? The fine scratches are from a small amount of rubbing I did with some 280 wet and dry paper. The deeper scratches are the damage from lack of clearance. Thanks for the suggestion for the aircraft bolts. Looks like a good idea. I don't know what the last photo in your group is. Could you explain it please.
  10. Hello from lockdown in Australia. I wonder if someone could kindly give me some advice about 1928 Buick Master pistons. I purchased a 1928 Model 58 a little while ago. Its history is unknown but it seems to have been restored about 25 years ago. Little was known about the engine except that I could see hone marks in the bores through spark plug holes and it had some prodigious oils leaks. I have removed the engine with a view to replacing the rear main seal. Having got that far I decided to completely disassemble it to see what was inside. The engine has new cast iron pistons 60 thou oversize. There is inadequate clearance in the bearings and one center main bearing in the cap has been slightly damaged in the 100 odd miles that I have driven it. I intend to shim the bearings for a little more clearance. The pistons are a mystery to me. They have no offset and they have a second oil ring below the gudgeon pin - see photos. My questions are: 1. Does the lack of offset matter? 2. Is the lower oil ring a good thing? It seems to me that it would cause extra drag and might cause the swept area above the lower oil ring to be inadequately lubricated. A couple of the upper oil rings were gummed up with an enamel-type substance which might mean inadequate flushing with oil. However, the car has been sitting around for the past 20 years and had a lot of grease-like sludge in the sump, I guess from a lot of cold running trying to get it to run properly. The carburetor was a mess. 3. Would it be acceptable to remove all the lower oil rings and leave them out? 4. Would a small amount of scoring on one side in a center main bearing cap (about 20% of the surface area in the cap is deeply scored) be cause for concern once proper clearances are established? The crankshaft is not scored. 5. To which side of the engine should the heads of the gudgeon pin retaining bolts point? I would greatly appreciate any opinions on these matters. Kind regards Geoff Ward
  11. Thanks for your advice. For whatever reason, I don't know, the escutcheon and the handle are locked together. Maybe the previous owner epoxied them together. I finally removed the handle and broke the thread off the escutcheon in the process. The retaining nut was the actual escutcheon so, had they not been locked together, the escutcheon should have just screwed out like the nut on the ordinary window winder. I will reuse the handle and escutcheon by drilling 2 holes for grub screws to clamp against the square shaft. Many thanks, Geoff
  12. Thanks David, but I'm not quite there yet. The back quarter windows handle have a nut that can be unscrewed to release the handle. The handle for the windshield doesn't have that nut. It has an escutcheon behind the handle (see picture) which turns with the handle and I haven't been able to release the handle from the escutcheon. Has anyone else seen this setup?
  13. Does anyone know how the winding knob is removed from the windshield regulator of a 1928 Buick? Picture attached. I have the mechanism out, which needs some work, but I can't remove the inside trim panel because the winding knob is keeping it on. The mechanism is positioned in a steel channel about 1/2" deep. It is welded in place. It seems I will have to grind off the welds to repair the mechanism. But, I would like to remove the upholstered trim panel before getting into it with an angle grinder. Kind regards Geoff Ward
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