Mark Shaw

I am no welding expert, but I suggest you pick the method that would impart the least distortion. The alignment of the pins is critical to the function of the part. Perhaps heating the whole part prior to MIG welding would provide more penetration and reduce or eliminate distortion?

Herman, It would help to know what car this is for...

Your flywheel may have been installed wrong by a previous mechanic. I suggest you verify your timing marks by physically checking that #1 cylinder agrees with timing marks at TDC.

1915 C25 Buick Speedster at WAAAM West Museum

I got my son's 1929-27 Buick running again over the weekend. It had corrosion on the coil wire connection to the distributor. He took a video of my test run in the car, but only shared it on Facebook. https://www.facebook.com/1485441450/videos/612793639883232/

My best recommendation is to fix or replace the original mechanical pump. Here is a good source: Then and Now Automotive (then-now-auto.com) I do use a rotary electric pump for my 38 Special just to get enough fuel for starting and to help eliminate vapor lock on hot days. Older Buicks with updraft carbs can only handle 3-5 psi at the inlet. Otherwise, the pressure will overcome the float valve and leak.

763-427-3460

Dave, You have a good plan with one exception... Make sure the timing is not retarded. I suggest that you first advance the timing just two degrees & give it a test run to see if it helps... I always try the easy fix first....

1915 Buick Model C25 Speedster.

You don't need to rotate the needle 360 degrees. A back and forth rotation should work as long as you have not yet machined too much material from the mating parts.

All the above actions & recommendations are a bit heavy handed to make this antique valve seal. All that was needed was some fine grinding compound (or toothpaste) to hone the needle to the seat. Just my opinion as a retired industrial valve specialist.....

Yesterday, I drove the 15 "Bumble Buick" to Cars & Coffee at the WAAM West Museum in Vancouver, WA.

I agree with Jim. It is an easy fix and can be done with some copper tubing, a propane torch & solder.

I don't sell on eBay for all the reasons above. However, the Buy/Sell sections of this forum have been great! By the way, I still have some left over parts for a 1931 50series Buick.... Flywheel, clutch, torque tube etc.... No small stuff...

Sandy Olsen and his team are a real asset to our hobby!

Try watching this site: +1937 +buick steering wheel | eBay

I suggest you eliminate the fuel pump as a potential source of the problem. Disconnect and plug the fuel pump connection and manually fill the vacuum tank for a test run after the engine is up to temperature. If it empties the vacuum tank & runs out of gas, your problem is in the vacuum system. Note: The fuel pump could also be causing a restriction in the fuel line that the vacuum tank cannot overcome..

I am no expert, but a darker base will only slightly change the lighter color. You might try spraying samples of the light color with a light and dark base to see if there is a significant difference. An increased number of finish coats can negate the difference too.

Moore Moto-Meter on a 1912 Model 34 Buick Roadster

Why not just coat it with gas tank sealer like Red Kote?

Follow up.... Persistence pays. Since I could not reach the seller to get her signature, I called the WA State Dept. of Revenue at 11AM. The recording said the office was closed due to COVID, but said I could leave a message that would be answered within one hour. At 4:15 PM, I got a call back and I explained my situation regarding my 100+ year old vehicle registration attempts. The gentleman gave me his email address to send my docs and said he would establish value by referencing his database and call me back. I also advised him that I personally restored the vehicle and paid sales tax on all the materials needed for the restoration. He called back and provided me with the required document indicating that the value was what was on the original bill of sale + just over $100 in admin. fees. I took all the documents to the DOL and got my registration and plate this morning. Happy Day! The bottom line is that there is more than one way to get it done if you don't trust the clerks at the DMV or DOL.

I just need to vent and warn others of the challenging requirements to register collector vehicles in WA State. I purchased a project car in 2001 with only a bill of sale. I just finished the restoration and conversion to a 1915 speedster. First I went to the DMV and was told I had to get it inspected. I had to wait almost 3 months to get an appt. to get it inspected by the WA State Patrol. Then, I went back to the DMV and was told I needed a DOR (Compliance Dealer Declaration) or Declaration of Value at time of first use. (See Below) This is a new requirement. Basically, they want to know the current value to establish the collectable sales tax after restoration. This is a new WA State Law: Chapter 82.12 RCW passed in 2021. It's just another hoop to jump through to get collector cars registered and licensed. Even after I provide this document, the DOL will only provide me with a three year registration without a title. So, I must then wait three years to apply for a valid title. Since I have already waited the three years for my registered 1912 Buick title, I asked for that title and was told the 1912 four digit frame number (VIN number) showed in their records as a horse trailer and could not be titled. So, I wonder how they registered it??? I am just about ready to throw up my hands and use license plates from my other cars instead of jumping through more hoops with WA State. And, when I do sell a collector car, it will be with just a bill of sale.

Mike, This is from the 15 Buick Delco manual.

Geoff, Just read this web page and decide if you have a race car or not. Light flywheels: pros and cons – Infinite-Garage (infinitegarage.com)