Mark Shaw

One more thing.... Make sure all the levers are perpendicular to the pulling rods with brakes applied. This provides the most leverage while applying the brakes.

Although you may find an original or reproduction manual with all the technical details, I have found that most such manuals will provide a guide to make your brakes safely operate, but only get you close to adjusting your brakes to function correctly. First, get all four brakes close to working together by jacking up each wheel and spinning each tire and make adjustments until the brake shoes barley drag. Take a helper with you and drive to a gravel or dirt road. Have your helper watch as you get up to 20-30 MPH and stand on the brakes. Your helper can then determine which wheels lock up and which wheels need adjustment. Repeat as needed until all four wheels stop the same.

It will fit probably a dozen or more. It is one of the most common for original and aftermarket lights.

Thanks for the clarification....

Quite often these mechical switches get sloppy as they get older... Your switch will typically be a lever type or pull type with a rod or cable activator. Just tighten up on the pull rod or bend the lever to activate sooner.

I really don't want to make it easy for anyone to get my email address. So, will the forum software show the email user name? Please clarify...

Notification is unclear regarding the change to email address login names. If only the login name is shown, it won't take much to complete email addresses when a scammer just needs to fill in gmail.com or Yahoo.com etc... I did try to activate my login via Facebook, but it currently is not working. What security will we have if anyone can find our complete email address?

I agree with Bob. I believe these were a dealer added option starting in 1931. I have seen two 1931 80-90 series Buicks with them.

Contact phone # sent for Frank Schurman in OR.

Check with Bill: 29 Buick -- Home

Try easy stuff first... ; remove the fuel line from the carb and crank the engine to see if you get fuel.

Alex, You can verify by measuring the stroke of your pump and adding it to the measurement from the top of the camshaft lobe to the machined face of the block where the pump mounts.

I suggest you increase your options by finding what other vehicles used that same transmission... Good Luck...

I use an old deep socket that was ground down to fit the narrow spark plug holes. You can make one with just a bench grinder and some patience.

I suggest you first spray a little WD40 or starting fluid around the vacuum connections to find any leaks before rebuilding your carb. Do the easy stuff first!

I have three 7,000 LB 4 post lifts for both storage and shop work for my prewar Buicks. All lifts must be safety rated to be sold here in the USA. All work well and have wheel kits to move them around. They are easy to use and come with movable cross members to jack up axles etc. Each one literally doubles the storage capacity of your building.

Sandy Olsen of Olsen's Gaskets has one; Engine Gaskets for the Antique Market - Olson's Gaskets (olsonsgaskets.com)

Probably unregistered if it was used for hauling dead bodies... Ha!

My guess is that they are the shifting dogs for an early transmission.

Anybody know what the bent end is for?

My father reproduced these rags over 30 years ago. I still have a few Chevrolet packages left, but since he had a Buick, he sold or gave away all the Buick rags to his buddies.

I sometimes go garage sailing in this 1924 Buick PU. When I arrive at a garage sale, just about everyone comes out to look at my truck while I go in to pick up the bargains....

Sorry, I have not seen this chain of posts for awhile... I can measure the 24 Master dipstick if you still need dimensions...

A brass drift and small taps with a hammer will work just fine after soaking in penetrating oil...

I always suggest the low-cost & easiest fix first.... Just saying....