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1929wilbur

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About 1929wilbur

  • Birthday 07/08/1961

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  1. Got it apart. Once I put on an Opti-visor, I was able to see two little locking tabs bent over the nut. Once they were moved, the nut was able to thread right off.
  2. I’m trying to get the ElectroLock cable/swivel off of the Delco Remy distributor of my ‘28 Chandler. I want to do away with it and go to an insulated stud through the distributor housing and am having a tough time getting it disconnected. It has a flat-sided stud and a nut inside the Delco. The stud turns. I’d love to get to the inside of the “armored” section to hold the stud so the nut could be dealt with. Any tips?
  3. I sprayed two coats of black Flex-Seal on the top of my Model A top ten years ago as a temporary band-aid, and it’s still acceptable. Eventually, I may get around to replacing the top…
  4. I’m looking for a Delco Remy 813489 distributor cap for my 1928 Chandler. Same unit was also used on the Duesenbergs. Any body got a NOS one for sale or know of a cross reference to another brand number?
  5. Number one cylinder is in the front. On my 8 cylinder Chandler, the timing mark is located on the flywheel, visible thru a window in the bell housing on the drivers side of the car. If you pull all the spark plugs out and put the car in gear, you’ll be able to move a tire by hand and watch for that mark to get number one at TDC.
  6. That nails it. Thanks! Not threaded, just clamped in place. I had spread the clamp a little with a chisel, but no luck. I’ll put some heat on the inner casting tomorrow and that should get it the shaft to come out.
  7. I have the rocker assemblies off of the engine in order to remove the cage valves and noticed that one of the rocker arms is stiff on it’s shaft. What is the process to take these apart. I was expecting to be able to unthread the end cap and get two rockers out of the assembly. No luck so far. Is it threaded or is it just clamped in position by the assembly mounting bolts?
  8. The car is located in Southern New Jersey. Excellent tips about cage removal. Thanks. I watched a video on YouTube of a fellow pulling them out with an engine hoist. I cringed at that butal method.
  9. Thanks, Wayne. I’m a T-guy myself and am very familiar with both Joe Bell and J&M. This Buick belongs to a friend of mine. I just learned that American LaFrance fire trucks of this era ran Buick engines and another friend is currently replacing one rod in his fire truck. He was able to get the piston out thru the bottom past the crank.
  10. Interesting that the piston may be able to be removed from the bore through the bottom with the crankshaft in place. Thanks for that! Only two of the jugs show low compression. My go-to juice has always been a mix of ATF and acetone. We may try flooding those two cylinders with it for a while and see what happens. Thanks. Not many rebuilder names have popped up…
  11. Thanks Mark. Is there a source for the special spanner tools (2) needed to remove those cage nuts or is it only a “make it” tool?
  12. Thank you. You were a great help a number of years ago setting me up with a superior alternative to the Schebler on my Royal 8 Chandler.
  13. The two jugs that have low comp are heavily oil-soaked, suggesting stuck/ worn rings.
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