Mark Shaw

I quit the BCA years ago after being mistreated as the director of the Prewar Division. I am not an AACA member, but I would wager that the AACA has many more prewar Buicks in their club than the BCA has. And, I do know that the HCCA has many more than the BCA. The choice is yours...

Just finished loading the 1908 Model F Buick. Leaving early Monday for the 1&2 cylinder Modoc Tour in the NE corner of CA.

Yes, it is the Pathfinder tour of National Parks that started in AZ and will end in ID. 2,700 Miles of Adventure. Pathfinders 2021 National Parks Tour is a Brass-Era, three-week progressive that will travel over 2,700 miles. Fifteen of the most majestic vehicles of the era will set out on our charge north from the warm inviting climate of Scottsdale Arizona. Pathfinders (pathfinderstranscon.com)

The HCCA recognizes all centennial vehicles in their club. And, they also have a free HCCA Prewar Buick Registry for all 1942 & older Buicks. PBR@BrassBuicks.groups.io

It appears to be either a dealer option or aftermarket item. Most cars did not come with such accessories from the factory.

Mine was a 1962 MG Midget... I installed new rings, etc. My mother wouldn't let me drive it without a roll bar. So, a family friend welded two pipe elbows together and bolted the 2 1/2" custom roll bar to the frame to act as the rear top bow. I drilled inserts in it to receive the original front top bow for the new top purchased from the JC Whitney catalog. My future brother-in-law painted it for me, and I installed blue indoor/outdoor carpeting. This car cornered like it was on rails, but couldn't beat a stock VW off the line.....

This museum would be appropriate too, as it is in Alaska. Fountainhead Antique Auto Museum (fountainheadmuseum.com)

The HCCA Museum (now being funded) or the AACA Museum might be interested.

A very cool item in excellent condition that would be great as part of a museum display.

Tom Van Meeteren <tsvanmeet@gmail.com>

Yes, and that is why I sold it to you. I had no use for it...😎

I got a kick out of reading this long thread about dual spares. The reason for having dual spares back in the day was because tires and tubes were prone to failure due to the early rubber compounds. Today we have much more reliable rubber compounds that have virtually eliminated flats for hundreds of miles. In my 30+ years of touring, I have yet to see anyone needing both spares to complete a day of touring. If dual spares were original to your car, have at it. And if your car came with just one spare, there is little reason to add one. Two of my early Buicks have clincher type wheels. These cars have no separable rim on which to mount a spare tire, so carrying a spare tube is all that is necessary to fix a flat on the road. However, I did have a blow-out once and ended up on the trouble trailer. That evening I was able to borrow a used tire from a friend and was back on the road the next day. Now I carry a spare tire in my car trailer too.

They have no catalog that I know of; but they do have a great website where you can search their products. Engine Gaskets for the Antique Market - Olson's Gaskets (olsonsgaskets.com)

Eric recently retired from the city job and can now do engine work full time....

A sediment bowl should be located under the vacuum tank because the vacuum tank only gravity feeds the carb. A paper filter may work OK for awhile, but as it filters more dirt the differential pressure will increase and eventually starve the carb.

Eric Barrett east of Sacramento.

Are you running the vacuum tank? If so, you may have a vacuum leak causing intermittent fuel starvation.

A downdraft carb from a Chevy 235 Six would do the trick. Chevy Parts » Carburetor - Rochester, 235ci (chevsofthe40s.com)

Antique Auto Top Hardware Company - Antique Car Parts, Leather Straps

The first and easiest thing to check is the timing. If it is running fine on idle, it could still be running with a retarded spark.

My Son's 29 has a triple bar bumper.

I suggest you post the year and model if you really want help.

Hugh, Although your effort to restore the original Marvel carb is commendable, original fuel tanks will almost always contain corrosion debris. This potential contamination will require a good cleaning and/or be lined with an ethanol resistant coating. The fuel line must also be cleaned and/or replaced to eliminate carb contamination to use only the the small carb screen. Many owners I know do not perform these tasks before getting their cars on the road. In any case, I still recommend using modern "see-thru" fuel filter hidden between the fuel tank and the carb to provide more filter surface area to do the job. This is particularly important for those who have not fully restored their fuel system as described above. The "see-thru" fuel filters are cheap and make it easy to diagnose fuel problems.

Early teens would be 1911 - 1915. My 1-12 and my 1915 Buicks had them.

An old sash window latch would be much easier to find. sash window latches - Bing - Shopping