Mark Shaw

Morgan, A 1930 Buick does not have a wood felloe.

The 3 5/8" stem will still fit nicely between the wood spokes...

You can use a rubber stemmed tube to solve your problem.

I suggest you buy new brake cylinders since they are relatively cheap and available.

Your car could be the twin to mine. Except for the steering wheel, it looks exactly like mine in better original condition. Congratulations... on a good buy!

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Bicycle-LED-Taillight-Wireless-Waterproof-Remote-Control-Bike-Tail-Rear-Safety-Warning-Light-Lamp-5-Warning-Turn-Signal-Mountain-Cycling/292436416?athcpid=292436416&athpgid=athenaItemPage&athcgid=null&athznid=PWVAV&athieid=v0&athstid=CS004&athguid=c0d82f45-006-175c4103b0e15f&athancid=null&athena=true

You may also have one or more valves stuck open.....

IMO, most overpriced car parts are from antique dealers who have no clue what hobbyists pay for parts. They are used to selling to a different clientele.

I too have a few left overs from a 31 Model 57 parts car I had. Flywheel, torque tube, tranny etc... Send a PM with your needs.

https://www.mcmaster.com/thrust-washers

http://www.brassauto.com/catalog.html

Don, I got this info from the gent from Then & Now who mentioned that several cars had push rods with ends like this....

I just bought a new fuel pump for my Model 31-67 Buick here: https://www.then-now-auto.com/ It came without the push rod. So now I am trying to find the right length for my car. I believe the end of the rods were braised to eliminate wear on the cam. Braised end can also be renewed to compensate for wear over time.

Pete, I can take some photos for you today. Stay tuned..

Call Dave Tachney 763-427-3460.

I am not suggesting total consolidation, just consolidate the less active categories to the level of the active ones. What we have now with so many categories requires everyone to wade through all of them.

Try adding these to handle the weight... https://www.grainger.com/product/4ZZN5?cm_mmc=PPC:+MSN+PLA&gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:MS:CSM-2295:TVRYAD:20501231&s_kwcid=AL!2966!10!79164967821903!4582764479653913&ef_id=996db102ad3618a11cfdee9a933062be:G:s

My son is 6'3" and does fit in most of the 20's & 30's mid-size Buicks (Master and 60 series).

The bar chart shows that IMO, only up to Buick Post War justifies their own category. There simply isn't enough activity for each of the others to have it's own. Perhaps these another categories could be consolidated to reduce the total number of categories users have to wade through to find the category they want.

The canoe with my split bamboo fly rod and wicker creel made for a great display. Thanks Marty...

FYI; there are five listed in the latest HCCA directory...

Jon, I am curious to know how the number of cylinders is factored in to carb sizing. The intermittent flow characteristics for single and two cylinder vehicles must require some fudge factors to determine carb sizes. I am familiar with net positive suction head and discharge dampening requirements for single and multiplex pumps (I sold them for years). I am currently running a #245 SA BB1 on my two cylinder Model F Buick with good results.

John, Check out the bylaws for your local regional group. Your 1916 car is eligible for all but the national HCCA tours, depending on which regional group you join. The HCCA also has several registries for 1942 & older vehicles.

Dennis, BB1 carb parts a very hard to come by.... If your vacuum tank cannot keep up, you probably have a vacuum leak in the system. Often, the pot metal vacuum tank lid becomes porous and leaks vacuum. I suggest you first try sealing the inside of the lid with airplane dope or gas tank sealer.

Why would you think nickel era cars are undesirable?