valk

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About valk

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Bethesda, MD
  • Interests:
    Vintage cars, classic British motorcycles, jazz guitar, all dogs, most animals

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  1. ...and I am looking for a cool front license plate, maybe something WWII related like an Air Force insignia or even better, a 4-star General plate!
  2. Ha! Hey Mike, you seem to know me pretty well...three projects are being mulled over at the moment, 2 rather controversial. 1) Install a non-intrusive, no holes to be drilled, 2-tone (to match the car) windshield visor 2) Paint the firewall; and the most aggregious sin to purists, 3) a monogram on the driver door. I understand this one is a bit self-absorbed and egotistical but, hey, you only live once... Peter
  3. Some one got a great deal on this one IMO... https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1931-buick-8-90-series-roadster/ Valk
  4. Thanks Boys, and thanks very much for your help. This is a cool option and I'm lucky to find them and have so much help with installation. Peter
  5. Hi Neil, I plowed ahead and tapped the voltage regulator for power. Everything's finished, install looks and works great. Case closed. Peter
  6. Mike, Yea I guess I could do that. There are 2 wires, though, that need to go through the firewall if i understand it right. And the switch itself already has a fuse, are you suggeting I need another one?? This is how I'm wiring it:
  7. I think I'm going to route the wires through the spring holes in the pic above as it reqires no fiddling and positions them very close to where they have to be under the dash. According to Bill Anderson's book, fog lights were a dealer installed option, not factory installed. Pressing my luck here, but I could use some guidance regarding how best to connect the 2 fog light wires to the 1 power wire coming from the switch, a "Y" connection of sorts. Thanks very much, Peter
  8. Well I'll be damned. You're right as usual Neil, I can't see sh*t anymore. So I could drill another hole or squish the wires through but, again, it's pretty there crowded already. I may have to do that but I'll poke around for another discreet route.
  9. The metal cover covers the whole hole (that's pretty weird...) and cannot be removed without either disconnecting all the harnesses and stuff going throught it or cutting a slit and bending it off, neither of which is an option for me. I could drill another hole in the metal cover but it's pretty crowded already. I'll figure it out...
  10. That is the obvious choice, but my main "porthole" has a metal cover and is already maxed out with added window washer tube and wire. I may use one or two of these spring holes just to the left of the voltage regulator.
  11. That sounds like a good alternative. Not many options for wires to pass through the firewall and I don't want to drill any holes. I'll keep exploring..
  12. ....and I'd love to know how the factory wired 'em, including routing of the wires, if anyone knows or has a factory installed fog lights....fat chance on that one....
  13. As suggested here, I'm running a single 12-gauge wire from my dash fog switch to right behind the front grill, then "splicing" in the 2 fog light wires so I don't have to run both light wires all the way to the switch. How would you guys suggest I make that 3-way connection? Butt connectors so the lights can be removed easily should I have to? Thanks for your opinions. Peter
  14. Now that you say that, I bet the long spring on the fender wall (lower pic above) is an owner mod. This set up is only one side, probably because there is no place to anchor a spring like that on the opposite side. Cool idea though and worked well before I took off the bloody latches. My issue is related to the 4 latches themselves, and whether or not there are any washers on the pivot pins on each (4) hood latch. With no washers, the hinges are resting and turning on the body itself which just doesn't seem right. Hoping some one may know...
  15. Does anyone have a schematic of the hood latch hardware on a '41? I took mine off (all 4) so I could paint some of my engine bay, put them back on and they work but do not operate smoothly. There is a spring that is supposed to retract the hood lever but it binds. I'm thinking there should be some friction washers around the pin somewhere but mine did not have any. And putting those springs back in place is no pleasure...