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About MG1927

  • Birthday 02/09/1953

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  1. Bill McLaughlin; martygr.53@gmail.com
  2. Thanks very much for the info! Marty
  3. That is a lot of information - Thanks very much Hugh! Marty
  4. John, Thanks for the info! I wonder if the 26 was what they used on the 1027 models. I'm also surprised there wasn't a cup that fit over the top of the jacks screw top and had a U shaped top on the cup that grasped the bottom of the axle to keep it from sliding off the axle. Marty
  5. I have a 1929 Buick model 27 body shell for sale. From firewall on back. Doors are on. Make a reasonable offer, based on you picking it up in SW Wisconsin. I will consider trading for parts for a Buick 1927 model 27. Marty
  6. Hi, I need new running board rubber for a Buick 1927 and a Buick 1929. Both are model 27's. I was wondering what your experience was for those who have replaced the same? Did both years use the same rubber? I was considering product from; L & L, Bob's, and Steele. Are there others that you would give a thumbs up to? What is your opinion on the quality and cost? Thank You! Marty
  7. Would anyone know, or have pictures / description / make and model of the jacks used on these cars? Did Buick supply a jack with the cars? Was it a bumper jack? Did you place it under the axle? Thanks! Marty
  8. William, What you describe fits my key problem exactly. I am confident that I have the right key, but it won't even go into the lock. I have soaked it and the barrel with free-all, brushed it clean, but have not vacuumed the key slot yet while using a needle as Hugh suggested. Marty
  9. Thank You Hugh for the detailed advice. I am more than happy to give your advice a try. Marty
  10. Thank You guys for the input, and thank you Hugh for the insight and details that you provided. Marty
  11. For those who have experience with rebuilding their wood frames, what glue is the best to use? Thanks, Marty
  12. For some time I have been intrigued with the transmission lock on my car. I read the number and had a key made for it. The key arrived and will not fit in the lock, so I am thinking that something was broken off in the lock. Would anyone know how to remove the lock from the transmission? Is it very complicated? Do you need to remove the transmission to get inside it? Thanks! Marty
  13. Thanks Ben for the info. I did buy the Fisher body manual, so I now have what you are showing. This a good book to have, but I just wish I had a dimensional drawing for the front posts. The posts are shown in the book, but it appears that any posts that are made will have to be made to fit the contour of the body. I suppose a pro would know how to approach this, but it seems like that is about the practical way to go about it. Marty
  14. Here are pics of the back of the lower switch on my previous post. MG
  15. And here is the back of the lower one. Guess not, I am oversized on the pics. See new post.
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