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About MG1927

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  • Birthday 02/09/1953

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    Lone Rock, Wisconsin area

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  1. William, What you describe fits my key problem exactly. I am confident that I have the right key, but it won't even go into the lock. I have soaked it and the barrel with free-all, brushed it clean, but have not vacuumed the key slot yet while using a needle as Hugh suggested. Marty
  2. Thank You Hugh for the detailed advice. I am more than happy to give your advice a try. Marty
  3. Thank You guys for the input, and thank you Hugh for the insight and details that you provided. Marty
  4. For those who have experience with rebuilding their wood frames, what glue is the best to use? Thanks, Marty
  5. For some time I have been intrigued with the transmission lock on my car. I read the number and had a key made for it. The key arrived and will not fit in the lock, so I am thinking that something was broken off in the lock. Would anyone know how to remove the lock from the transmission? Is it very complicated? Do you need to remove the transmission to get inside it? Thanks! Marty
  6. Thanks Ben for the info. I did buy the Fisher body manual, so I now have what you are showing. This a good book to have, but I just wish I had a dimensional drawing for the front posts. The posts are shown in the book, but it appears that any posts that are made will have to be made to fit the contour of the body. I suppose a pro would know how to approach this, but it seems like that is about the practical way to go about it. Marty
  7. Here are pics of the back of the lower switch on my previous post. MG
  8. And here is the back of the lower one. Guess not, I am oversized on the pics. See new post.
  9. I am hoping that someone could identify the year and model that these switches pertain to. Both were included in a bucket of parts that came with my car, and obviously have not seen much care. They are not original for my Model 27-27. So for the 27-27 I will need Buicks original switch, their number D-1288. If you have one or know of one, please advise on that. Also what is the rusty screw or bolt used for? Thanks, Marty
  10. I had the same problem, but it is working now. I had to unplug my router and reboot, and maybe that was coincidental to a prob w/ their web site.
  11. According to an old post I read on here the 1927 engines were numbered as follows, "Engine numbers for 1927 were in the range of 1627954 to 1978252". So the first number is 1. I believe Hugh has it right.
  12. A Thank You to each and everyone of you guys. This is a WEALTH of information that will help me get a foothold on getting started. Marty
  13. Thanks Mike. I planned to take lots of pics, but will need to retake most pics that I would post on here due to the size of them. I am looking for info on the roof. The ribs that go from side to side are all sunk in. Since they are rotted on one end, they would likely need to be made from scratch, and I probably would use white oak. Obviously they were originally made with some amount of dome shaping. How would I find that out? I'm thinking it would be wise to get good solid measurements on the roof/wood as it is before anything is taken apart as the car body as a whole would keep it to its original dimension., or at least very close. Thanks, MG
  14. I am wondering what you experienced members use for reference as to what parts are used in the car - are there exploded drawings available to show what parts were used? Most likely many of the parts were used in a series of years, but how would I track this down? Thank You, Marty