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Working on the 60 Electra


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I finally took th opportunity to go to Austin this past weekend.  Got to see what Rob was doing.

New Springs are and shocks have been installed on the rear end.  We used Eaton springs and Viking Adjustable shocks like we did in the front.

it was put together but with the 2 inch drop the pan hard  bar was incorrect. Rob figured out how to make an adjustable one and got one part built.

A piece of 1 " tubing with 1/4 " wall, drilled and tapped for 4 wheel drive "Johnny Joints".   They are similar to Heim Joints but they have a poly bushing in them.

It would have been easier to do in a lathe but it was successful in a drill press and vice.  One side is done, we have ordered a 11/16" LEFT handed thread tap for the other side.

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Bill Stoneberg said:

BTW,  look at the difference in the springs eaton sent me.  They are correct just not as long as he originals. Granted there is a 2 " drop but this is like 4 inches of difference.

 

 

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   Your originals have 5 coils and compresses easily for the smooth ride, etc.   The new one has 4 coils.   Should work just fine.  I always liked progressive coils over the standard.  I always have noticed old springs are a million miles long when take out of the car.  The new springs much shorter.  It is all in the spring rate if I'm not mistaken. 

 

Edited by avgwarhawk (see edit history)
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On 2/16/2022 at 9:47 AM, drhach said:

Did you change the panhard bar because of bushing availability? 

It was changed because we are lowering the car 2 inches and the original did not work properly.  The rear end was not centered sitting on the ground.

Edited by Bill Stoneberg (see edit history)
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17 hours ago, NTX5467 said:

At "ride height", the Panhard Bar (or lateral bar) is the side-to-side locating device for the rear axle assy, on coil spring rear suspensions.  Leaf springs do this on their lateral stiffness.

Gotcha, I forgot about physics. 

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The Panhard Bar does locate the rear end laterally, however, the center of the axle follows an arc as the suspension moves up and down.  The axle is centered at the design ride height using the stock bar.  Lowering the ride height 2 inches requires an adjustment of the Panhard Bar length to re-center the rear end at the new baseline height.

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  • 2 weeks later...

The weather finally got nice enough to put the Lizard Skin on the front floor.  Interesting find while we were dong this, the front seat will not come out of the car without taking it apart or taking the door off the car.  So we just moved it to backseat area and will do the Lizard skin in sections.  This week it has been the front seat.

Nice thing about Lizard Skin is that it is like Latex house paint, it cleans up easy with water.  No smell either.

4 coats, 2 sound deadening and 2 heat protection.  

Now its time to do the final install of the under dash parts of the AC and then Dynamite. 

 

 

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Edited by Bill Stoneberg (see edit history)
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With all of that sound/heat insulation, you'll probably need to get some new door weatherstriping too, to address the otherwise not-noticed-before wind noise.  One thing leads to another.  BUT it will be great when finished!

 

NTX5467

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  • 5 weeks later...

OK, between getting a new job and lots of Doctors appointments and tests there has not been a lot of work on the Buick.

But this last weekend the A/C unit got mounted for the last time and the lines built.

One thing about Rob, he has the tools to do most anything.  He needed to drill holes in the firewall. 

If it was me, I would take my drill and a step bit. Then a little filing and I would be set.

Rob got out his magnetic drill (it sticks to the firewall) and the annular bits and drilled the holes needed.

Works really well for holes in the frame.  

 

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This weekend we want to finish the interior so we can get started on the engine.

It came back from the shop this week.

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

Its been a few weeks or months since I posted anything.  Being sick takes it toll.

Rob has been getting up to speed with his new job but our plans are to get the engine back in this weekend. 

From there we can start running lines and wiring.  

I hope we are both well enough to do it.

Pictures as it happens.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Still working on the interior and finishing the AC.

 

We chose a Mark IV from Vintage air for a couple of reasons.

1. Its the biggest, coldest unit that any of the vendors make. With the amount of glass in the car and living in Texas (we have had 14 100 degree plus days already this year), I need as much cooling as possible.

2. The electronic controls can hook up to the stock controls.  Seriously, it will look almost stock when done as opposed to having a VA control panel.

So the AC unit is mounted for the last time, hoses all connected to the bulkhead adapter, and base electronics are connected.

AND we are working on the controls. it looks like we are going to build a box or plate to hold the POTS (Potentiometers) and then use stock cable to adjust.  More to come as it gets figured out.

 

If you buy a VA system make sure you look at the EZ CLIP system they and others like Granger)sell.  It makes running AC lines easy.  You can do it in your garage with a special hand tool they sell.  Plus they make all the fittings to make it work. The lines are smaller also which helps clean up the engine bay.

 

Edited by Bill Stoneberg (see edit history)
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1 hour ago, Bill Stoneberg said:

We chose a Mark IV from Vintage air for a couple of reasons.

 

Funny you should mention VA today. I had planned to look up this thread and see what type of A/C you are installing in your Electra. I'm driving the Skylark down to a VA installing dealer in Forked River, NJ on Friday have them size up my car and recommend a system.

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47 minutes ago, Machine Gun said:

Funny you should mention VA today. I had planned to look up this thread and see what type of A/C you are installing in your Electra. I'm driving the Skylark down to a VA installing dealer in Forked River, NJ on Friday have them size up my car and recommend a system.

This is the 2nd VA system we have installed. First was on my 64 Riviera. 

wont use anything else.

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On 6/22/2022 at 3:56 AM, Bill Stoneberg said:

Still working on the interior and finishing the AC.

 

We chose a Mark IV from Vintage air for a couple of reasons.

1. Its the biggest, coldest unit that any of the vendors make. With the amount of glass in the car and living in Texas (we have had 14 100 degree plus days already this year), I need as much cooling as possible.

2. The electronic controls can hook up to the stock controls.  Seriously, it will look almost stock when done as opposed to having a VA control panel.

So the AC unit is mounted for the last time, hoses all connected to the bulkhead adapter, and base electronics are connected.

AND we are working on the controls. it looks like we are going to build a box or plate to hold the POTS (Potentiometers) and then use stock cable to adjust.  More to come as it gets figured out.

 

If you buy a VA system make sure you look at the EZ CLIP system they and others like Granger)sell.  It makes running AC lines easy.  You can do it in your garage with a special hand tool they sell.  Plus they make all the fittings to make it work. The lines are smaller also which helps clean up the engine bay.

 

I would love to see any pics available for this installation.

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