Bill Stoneberg Posted August 15, 2021 Author Share Posted August 15, 2021 (edited) Master cylinder came from a 71 Riviera. Its a disk / drum combo and it took a bit of modification. You have to cut the rod to fit and then round it off. After that it worked fine Also put a vacuum test on the booster. Held with no issues. Edited August 15, 2021 by Bill Stoneberg (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Stoneberg Posted August 16, 2021 Author Share Posted August 16, 2021 After the fun of putting on brakes and suspension it was back to the mundane chores that needed to be done. Yesterday was a day of putting seam sealer on all the new and some old seams in the cabin and firewall. Lots of new metal work for the AC and the floor that had to be sealed up. Not exciting but necessary. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted August 16, 2021 Share Posted August 16, 2021 Sticky business. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Stoneberg Posted August 23, 2021 Author Share Posted August 23, 2021 More sanding, painting and getting things pretty. All the seam sealer that was put on had to be sanded, primed and painted. Plus when the door sills were removed rust was found. Took rust stopper paint and encapsulated the rust. Once it cures we will get it primed and painted. We couldn’t leave the rebuilt Dynaflow all ugly, so it got a coating of ceramic cast coat that made it look new. Same with the new master cylinder so it won’t look like crap after a few years. Pictures 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Stoneberg Posted August 23, 2021 Author Share Posted August 23, 2021 Before and after shots of the Dynaflow… And the master cylinder. 7 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Stoneberg Posted August 30, 2021 Author Share Posted August 30, 2021 (edited) More blasting and painting. Transmission is in place on a jack while we wait for the paint to dry. The back end is all hooked up, just waiting on the cross member to dry. Rob got a new blasters he wanted see how it did on Aluminum. Looks like it did pretty well. Rob got a new blasters he wanted see how it did on Aluminum. Looks like it did pretty well. Edited August 30, 2021 by Bill Stoneberg (see edit history) 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Stoneberg Posted September 3, 2021 Author Share Posted September 3, 2021 Parts came in yesterday. We have been waiting for new shocks to finish the front end. Considering we are doing a 2 " drop all around, we ordered shocks to fit on all 4 corners. Viking Shocks make an infinitely adjustable shock made especially for the 2" drop in the back but nothing for the front which will run stock springs and shocks. After talking to one of their sales engineers and doing some measuring, they had a shock that fit for the front. Here is old versus new. You can see the adjust knobs for both compression and rebound. Nice thing is that this fits just like the old one. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexRiv_63 Posted September 3, 2021 Share Posted September 3, 2021 53 minutes ago, Bill Stoneberg said: Parts came in yesterday. We have been waiting for new shocks to finish the front end. Considering we are doing a 2 " drop all around, we ordered shocks to fit on all 4 corners. Viking Shocks make an infinitely adjustable shock made especially for the 2" drop in the back but nothing for the front which will run stock springs and shocks. After talking to one of their sales engineers and doing some measuring, they had a shock that fit for the front. Here is old versus new. You can see the adjust knobs for both compression and rebound. Nice thing is that this fits just like the old one. Will those adjusters be accessible after installation? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted September 3, 2021 Share Posted September 3, 2021 A 2" drop, huh. Kind of what Buick did 4 years later. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Stoneberg Posted September 3, 2021 Author Share Posted September 3, 2021 6 hours ago, TexRiv_63 said: Will those adjusters be accessible after installation? Yes, via a screwdriver through the springs. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTX5467 Posted September 4, 2021 Share Posted September 4, 2021 Curious what the "base adjustment" might be on jounce and rebound? Plus the range of adjustment between "full soft" and "full hard"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Stoneberg Posted September 27, 2021 Author Share Posted September 27, 2021 (edited) Its been a few weeks since we did much on this car. Between a new job for Rob and me getting shingles, we have been slowed down. BTW, if you have not gotten a shingles shot and are old and had Chicken Pox when you were young, you probably get the vaccine. I know vaccine is a contentius term at the moment, but you dont want Shingles. But anyway, I got to Rob's this past weekend and we were able to get some things done. Main object was to see what we needed to do to get the shocks in. After cutting a notch in the lower control arm where the shock goes (because of the adjustment knobs) we discovered that the bar you bolt the shock to the control arm was not quite long enough. Tomorrow I will talk to Viking and see if they have a longer one, or if we are going to have to do some work. Rob got a new blasting cabinet that I put to use on a variety of parts. Throttle linkage, covers, and other items. I am glad I was able to sit and blast. This is the chunk we had to cut from the shock pocket. This was so we could push the spring up through the control arm. These are the bars we had a choice of, both too short by maybe 1/4 ". Edited September 27, 2021 by Bill Stoneberg (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Stoneberg Posted September 27, 2021 Author Share Posted September 27, 2021 (edited) Then we found this radiator overflow tank while looking at the Summit catalog. And getting ready for some pipe bending and flairing..... And finally, we were removing the wipers to pain the cowl. Some PO had decided it needed to be glued on the shaft. It too a special tool from Amazon to get the damn thing off. Normally they are held on with a spring clamp not glue or RTV. The tool is the final picture. It provided enough push that we were able to break the glue and wiggle it off. Edited September 27, 2021 by Bill Stoneberg (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Stoneberg Posted September 27, 2021 Author Share Posted September 27, 2021 On 9/3/2021 at 9:05 PM, NTX5467 said: Curious what the "base adjustment" might be on jounce and rebound? Plus the range of adjustment between "full soft" and "full hard"? Willis, following instructions that came with the shock, we set the compression to 2 (out of 19) and rebound to 6 (out of 19). This was for a soft street ride. I hope so...... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTX5467 Posted September 27, 2021 Share Posted September 27, 2021 Thanks for the updates! Glad you're feeiling better again! NTX5467 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted September 27, 2021 Share Posted September 27, 2021 Shingles can kick ones BUTT! I believe they/it was more painful than the heart surgery a couple months earlier. Are you almost to the bottom of that slippery slope, Bill. 😁 Looking forward to the completed project. Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted September 27, 2021 Share Posted September 27, 2021 Glad to hear you are feeling better Bill and congrats to Rob on the new job. Good to see you are back on the Electra. That glue on the wiper arm is crazy! It is scary what some consider a "fix". I wonder what else is glued on such as radio knobs or other system controls. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted September 28, 2021 Share Posted September 28, 2021 On 9/27/2021 at 8:59 AM, JohnD1956 said: It is scary what some consider a "fix". Makes you think it was something they were told on the internet. 1 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Stoneberg Posted October 4, 2021 Author Share Posted October 4, 2021 Another weekend of work. Basically front end work. Suspension and brakes. No pictures on this. More ordering parts to finish filling up the spare room where we are storing them. Has anyone used Lizard Skin on their cars ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted October 4, 2021 Share Posted October 4, 2021 Glad you are back in good health! What the heck is lizard skin? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted October 4, 2021 Share Posted October 4, 2021 1 hour ago, Bill Stoneberg said: Has anyone used Lizard Skin on their cars ? Yes, on my 51 Ford truck. All of interior and outer firewall. Good product: noise (stopped the "booming" of that primitive vehicle); good insulation from heat through the floor (only has rubber mat) and firewall; durable after 6 years looks good and wears good. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Stoneberg Posted October 4, 2021 Author Share Posted October 4, 2021 1 hour ago, avgwarhawk said: What the heck is lizard skin? Its a sound and heat deadining material that you can spray on. Easier then Dynamat. Kinda looks like a bed liner in a truck. We are thinking about putting in on the floors, firewall and other interior surfaces before putting the carpeting in. https://lizardskin.com 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted October 5, 2021 Share Posted October 5, 2021 15 hours ago, Bill Stoneberg said: Its a sound and heat deadining material that you can spray on. Easier then Dynamat. Kinda looks like a bed liner in a truck. We are thinking about putting in on the floors, firewall and other interior surfaces before putting the carpeting in. https://lizardskin.com Look easier then cutting each piece of material. Understand that the weight of this material once applied will slow acceleration by .0001 of a second. But, it will do it quietly. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Stoneberg Posted October 5, 2021 Author Share Posted October 5, 2021 4 hours ago, avgwarhawk said: Look easier then cutting each piece of material. Understand that the weight of this material once applied will slow acceleration by .0001 of a second. But, it will do it quietly. We have a big thumping cam and a blower to take care of the lack of acceleration..😂 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted October 5, 2021 Share Posted October 5, 2021 1 minute ago, Bill Stoneberg said: We have a big thumping cam and a blower to take care of the lack of acceleration..😂 Good thing you got lizard skin! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexRiv_63 Posted October 5, 2021 Share Posted October 5, 2021 20 hours ago, Bill Stoneberg said: Its a sound and heat deadining material that you can spray on. Easier then Dynamat. Kinda looks like a bed liner in a truck. We are thinking about putting in on the floors, firewall and other interior surfaces before putting the carpeting in. https://lizardskin.com Was your car noisy inside before or is heat insulation the main issue? My 60 seems very quiet inside the few times I have driven it with the windows closed... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Stoneberg Posted October 5, 2021 Author Share Posted October 5, 2021 It’s fairly quiet but hot.. trying to keep the load on the A C down. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Stoneberg Posted October 11, 2021 Author Share Posted October 11, 2021 Another Saturday spent in Austin. Thats about 2 hours away from me. My joy is beating the time that GPS tells me it takes to get there AND not getting a ticket. Anyway, we spent the day on the front suspension again. We got new Tbars for the Viking shocks that were the correct length and mounted the shocks. Once again, we replaced the wheel studs on the rotors so now the wheels and tires go on. We finished connecting the drag link and took a SWAG at the toe in / toe out specs. As I was leaving to head home Rob was under the car tearing out the Brake lines for replacements. Who ever worked on them before, their only wrench had to be a pair of Vice Grips. . 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexRiv_63 Posted October 11, 2021 Share Posted October 11, 2021 What kind of tires are those? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Stoneberg Posted October 11, 2021 Author Share Posted October 11, 2021 Those are Diamondback Radials build in 2016 on the Toyo Tire carcass. They don’t make them anymore so I am watching what others have bought recently. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTX5467 Posted October 12, 2021 Share Posted October 12, 2021 Hankook has some new Kinergy radials in 15" sizes that can come with a whitewall installed. Might need to download their master catalog to get the part numbers, though. TireRack has carried them, in whitewall, at a decent price. Take care, NTX5467 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted October 12, 2021 Share Posted October 12, 2021 (edited) I like that alignment fixture! It looks like it registers on the rim, correct? Is that home-made, or was it bought somewhere? I made a very cheezy home-made approximation of that, but I'd like to have one like this in my toolbox. Edited October 12, 2021 by EmTee typo (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted October 12, 2021 Share Posted October 12, 2021 21 hours ago, Bill Stoneberg said: Another Saturday spent in Austin. Thats about 2 hours away from me. My joy is beating the time that GPS tells me it takes to get there AND not getting a ticket. Anyway, we spent the day on the front suspension again. We got new Tbars for the Viking shocks that were the correct length and mounted the shocks. Once again, we replaced the wheel studs on the rotors so now the wheels and tires go on. We finished connecting the drag link and took a SWAG at the toe in / toe out specs. As I was leaving to head home Rob was under the car tearing out the Brake lines for replacements. Who ever worked on them before, their only wrench had to be a pair of Vice Grips. . Tell me about this alignment tool. I use 4 jack stands and string from the rear axle to the front axles. Keeps the rear tracking with the front. Measuring tape from 9 and 3 o'clock position on the rim. It works quite well. However, your apparatus looks much better than my rig. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Stoneberg Posted October 12, 2021 Author Share Posted October 12, 2021 (edited) The alignment system is the Quick Trip Alignment system. https://quicktrickalignment.com it does register on the rim. it works well and you can get wheel pads so you can do toe in/out and caster camber adjustment too. Edited October 12, 2021 by Bill Stoneberg (see edit history) 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Stoneberg Posted October 13, 2021 Author Share Posted October 13, 2021 (edited) Got news from Rob, Gas tank has been pulled and it is nasty. The sender is not something I want to use. No sock and who knows what else. This explains how I would get trash in my carb. Somebody used RTV, not all the bolts, to hold the sender to the top of the tank. I wondered why I smelled gas somedays. Now, the inside of the tank isn’t rusty but the last gallon i got out had a lot of “sand” in it. Like literally sounds like sand when you slosh it too. The bottom picture what came out with one gallon. I’m going to take it and soak it w degreaser and power wash the inside at the Carwash. Edited October 13, 2021 by Bill Stoneberg (see edit history) 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted October 13, 2021 Share Posted October 13, 2021 That fuel tank is a great argument for keeping our tank full during these times of limited activity or any time long term storage pops up. For those with newer cars there is a good opportunity to set aside or replace hard to find fuel system parts through companies like Rock Auto. A couple of years ago I used them to replace my '86 Park Avenue fuel pump/sending unit, both factory DELCO formed tubing sections, and the two high pressure connecting hoses. I am good for another 30 years or more. Everything came in under $200. They have a good selection of factory stuff that would have been scrapped in pre-computer days. This thread seems to be a good place to note that. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Stoneberg Posted October 13, 2021 Author Share Posted October 13, 2021 I was lucky, with a little bit of modification to the filler neck, a 1963-64 Riviera gas tank is the same tank and its available with a new sender. it is ordered and its on the way. I have to say, Dee is getting sick of all these car parts arriving. She has started to retaliate with clothes for her. At least clothes dont weigh 75 pounds like a package I got yesterday. 2 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted October 13, 2021 Share Posted October 13, 2021 Are going to use an external or in-tank pump? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Stoneberg Posted October 14, 2021 Author Share Posted October 14, 2021 I have ordered a new tank (a 63 Riviera tank with modifications to the neck) and sender for the very reason we are putting new Holley in-tank pump in. Help keeps the pump cooler and no vapor lock. Rob has an external pump, and he wants one too. He has had issues in the summer with vapor lock with the Riviera. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTX5467 Posted October 15, 2021 Share Posted October 15, 2021 Is that internal pump assy rated for "carb" of "EFI" pressure? Just curious, NTX5467 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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