Dynaflow woes

[Rosiesdad]

I got my completely rebuilt Dynaflow back and put it in. ($3500) After the third drive the park function stopped working. I guess there is a parking pawl issue. 

The rebuilder mentioned when I picked it up that reverse might take a while to smooth out. Sure enough reverse is embarrassingly jerky as if its trying to go two directions at once. When the unit is started from cold it works OK but once warm it functions poorly. Needless to say I am not happy at this point and will be taking it back.

Can anyone shed any light on this issue?

 

THanks!

Phil

[KAD36]

When the parking pawl "stopped working" - what does that mean?  Same as being in Neutral, or you getting any hold or slippling (clicking) out of it?  Trying to ascertain if the condition described can be adjusted out or if its a broken pawl.  Can't recall off the top of my head if the parking pawl is adjustable while in the car.

 

Regarding reverse, is it jerking on a flat or under load?  Mine has historically "chattered" and jerked slightly when starting in reverse only  when hot up a hill (but not cold) and even after my rebuild and was never able to be adjusted out.  As such I try to not park the car facing downhill knowing I have to back up.  Try double checking the linkage adjustment (that moves the valve control) and also ensure the thrust pad is tight.  Cold oil at higher viscosity can mask a mis-adjustment that could prevent full pressure being applied to the reverse band or clutch packs when the oil thins when hot.  Just a hunch and something easy to adjust in car with a manual.

 

If its the reverse band being out of adjustment and if a '50 is anything like a '55 its probably not adjustable from in the car unless you put an access hole in the floor.  This is where rebuilders typically have to go by feel or experience - think the manual references 6 turns on the adjusting bolt for the band to be properly tightened and thats assumed good for roadworthiness and assumes a given thickness of band material and drum diameter (assuming the drum was not turned down to remove any scoring).  Without and access, rebuilders go with the "bench" setting.  The rebuilder who did my Dynaflow passed all this information on when he rebuilt my transmission, and was kind enough to show me some of this when he rebuilt mine.

 

Whats the condition of the oil - any unusual level of gray residue on the stick?  My first Dynaflow rebuild many years ago showed gray residue on the stick within a few weeks and I was wrongly told by that previous amateur rebuilder it was breaking in.  Actually it was eating itself up.

 

If you can't adjust the condition out, then perhaps consider a pressure test or dropping the pan before you tear it out of there and see whats inside.  If no pieces, maybe you can work the problem while in the car.  If there are pieces or gray residue on the bottom of the pan, out she comes.  Don't know how much you want to mess with it vs just take it back to the rebuilder given its a fresh install and you have repeatable evidence of unacceptable operation.  Good luck.

Edited August 14, 2016 by KAD36 (see edit history)

[Bhigdog]

Where  I would start in the diagnosis chain is linkage and trans mount...............Bob

[NTX5467]

Speaking from generalities and not specifically DynaFlows . . .

 

The apply pressures in Reverse usually are higher than in Drive.  Not sure why, just that they usually are.  But my first impression from reading the post was that there might be some wear in the valve body itself that might be causing some issues.  I became aware (a while back) of a place in Oklahoma that reconditions valve bodies (at least for more recent automatic transmissions) to put "new" surfaces for the shuttle valves to slide in and out of. 

 

I would think the parking pawl situation could have a "put it back the way it was" aspect to it, if it was disassembled.  Hopefully, the adjustment nut/bolt was not tightened correctly and it allowed the manual linkage to slide out of adjustment the first time the rod didn't exactly line up with the notches.  I would hope it would be that easy!

 

Transmission drums are kind of like brake drums in reverse.  The brake shoes like a nice, reasonably smooth surface to work against (especially the smoooooth surface finish part), but sometimes it could be that in refinishing them, a little too much could be removed which could make the O.D. a little too small.  When that "window" is exceeded, I doubt a good adjustment (bench or otherwise) can be obtained.  I would also hope that any aftermarket replacement bands applying to that drum might have a little more material thickness than a strictly OEM item might, just for that reason.  Or that it's expected that the existing drum could have worn down a little.

 

If you have a suspicion of metal in the fluid, you might get a small magnet and attach it to the outer corner of the horizontal surface of the oil pan. 

 

Please advise of how things progress.

 

NTX5467

[Rosiesdad]

In response to Kad36 questions;  Park initially worked but nothing at all now, no clicking just like neutral. I have new thrust pad rear mount, engine mounts are fine. Tried up to around 15 turns in each direction on the selector rod. 

Before rebuild I had a slight jerking when backing uphill. Nothing bad. Now on the level it jerks pretty bad and feels as if the brakes are on because it quickly comes to a stop when I reduce power input. Never did that before. 

I have not inspected the fluid yet to look for bits. Good idea! 

Rebuilder didn't do a pressure tests and I questioned that....

It may be a while before I can report further. Rebuilder is currently shutting down his shop and will be working out of his home shop. I am giving him time to settle in and the weather to cool down and then I will take it over to do the tests. I think the pawl can be accessed with the tailshaft housing pulled off. Hopefully pressure tests will give us a direction to go in.

Thanks all for the great insights!

Phil

[old-tank]

10 hours ago, Rosiesdad said:

Now on the level it jerks pretty bad and feels as if the brakes are on because it quickly comes to a stop when I reduce power input.

Carefully go over the linkage adjustment again.  If no joy, it may need to be removed and disassembled again paying attention to why the clutches are still applied when the reverse band is engaged (look for contamination blocking release of pressure to the drum).

[Bhigdog]

2 hours ago, old-tank said:

why the clutches are still applied when the reverse band is engaged

"

Wondering if the clutch disc "dish" isn't correct..................Bob

[Daves1940Buick56S]

" Rebuilder is currently shutting down his shop and will be working out of his home shop. "

 

Uh oh. Is he closing his business and just doing work at home as a retirement thing or just relocating? The reason I ask is that if he dissolved his LLC when he shut down your guarantee could be now worthless, but it depends on State law I think. Anyhow, in any case there is likely a time limit on the guarantee (probably 90 days or so) so I wouldn't give him too much time to get "settled in." Just speaking from experience here - forewarned is forearmed.

 

Cheers, Dave

[NTX5467]

The statement of how it seems like the brakes are on when going in Reverse, as it slows down quickly when throttle is reduced . . . also sounds like there are TWO friction segments running at the same time.  In drag racing, many use a "trans brake" to stage the car.  What this does is apply "R" and a forward "gear" at the same time, opposing forces keep the car stationary.  When the "R" is released, only the forward "gear" is operative and the car moves forward.

 

I know of two valve body issues on different friends' automatic transmissions.  One was a Turbo400 that had been rebuilt, then set aside until the car was finished (a year or so later).  When reinstalled, it applied in forward and reverse.  On the drive to the muffler shop, every time the trans would shift out of low gear, it'd start locking down, so the car had to be driven in low gear only.

 

The other one was a late-60s TorqueFlite in a '69 Coronet.  Worked fine in low and reverse, but when it shifted into second, the rear wheels would stop rolling.

 

As I mentioned earlier, these are VALVE BODY issues, I suspect, and your transmission's issues might not go away with correct band adjustments.

 

Similarly, if the valve body is a two-piece part (as many are), there is a divider plate and a gasket for each side of the plate.  The wrong plate or gasket issues can cause leakage from one hydraulic circuit to another.  There should ALSO be some check balls in particular places in the valve body's fluid circuits.  If the BALL SEAT has corroded or is otherwise compromised, then that situation would need to be reconditioned for best operation.  If you've got a factory service manual which details all of these things, so much the better.

 

Normally in a transmission rebuild, the bulk of focus is on the frictions, "steels", drums, and bands.  Making sure the check balls are in the correct locations in the valve body is also done.  Noting the sealing surface of the valve body halves, for flatness and pitting, is another inspection process.  But the individual ball check seats might go uninspected as long as the rest of things are "clean".

 

Regards,

NTX5467

[KAD36]

17 hours ago, Bhigdog said:

"

Wondering if the clutch disc "dish" isn't correct..................Bob

 

Meaning the steel plates were installed not all facing the same direction?

 

It certainly sounds like something is either preventing the reverse drum from being held tight enough or something isn't releasing when the reverse drum is held by the band.  If you have a shop manual section 4-18 indicates you have an access hole in the floor pan and can adjust the reverse band in the car.  Check it out.  http://www.hometownbuick.com/1950-buick-dynaflow-transmission/

 

Are you getting D and L ok?  How well centered is the selector over the PNDLR letters when you are shifting? Try putting the wheels in the air with no load and see what happens in N then R. Its ok for some free wheel spin in N on a stand. Its hard to say what 15 turns either way will do to the linkage unless starting at the proper reference point - is that what was done? If you carefully adjust the linkage per link above ( as evidenced by the selector indicator centered over the PNDLR assuming it has not been disturbed since the removal), check the band adjustment and still no smooth engagement of R then concur it sounds like something broke or isn't adjusted/assembled right inside. 

 

Complete loss of park makes it sound like the parking pawl adjustment slipped after a few uses or the pawl arm broke - maybe a loose piece is preventing reverse from engaging properly.

Edited August 16, 2016 by KAD36 (see edit history)

[Bhigdog]

6 hours ago, KAD36 said:

Meaning the steel plates were installed not all facing the same direction?

 

Yes. .............Bob

[Rosiesdad]

Yes Ken. The pointer is lined up normally and I have about 1/8 " travel past park on the arm. It works fine in drive and low. I suspect a valve body issue. I suppose a pressure test will confirm that?

Thanks!

Phil

[KAD36]

Diagnostic sequence from a 55 manual courtesy of hometownbuick. 

 

Recommend doing it after you follow below and check for metal in the oil.  In the pressure test matrix there is only 1 pressure test in reverse at the front pump at idle. What does the 50 manual say?

 

 

If you have to get into the reverse servo to check the integrity of the piston and seal I think the valve body can be removed with the unit in the car after you drop the pan and disconnect the linkage.  Maybe someone can confirm for a 50.  Since its a fresh rebuild try to make the rebuilder do that so that your disturbance of their workmanship doesn't cloud the issue.

 

Park is still undiagnosed.

[buick man]

…. well Phil, as you may recall back in April we got a little toasting from some of our fellow brethren regarding buick man's suggestions on how to go about 'contracting' with a shop as well as what to look for when selecting a a Dynaflow transmission rebuilder.  We also included the necessity of making sure the rebuilder performs a pre-drop & tear down psi test as well as a post rebuild psi test.

 

 But anyways, having said all that back in April, it only leaves you where you are today.  Had the post rebuild psi tests been preformed the rebuilder would of been able to determine that reverse operation was faulty.  This can still be done with the transmission in the car.  However with that said, there is little doubt that a drop and exploratory surgery of the transmission is in order. Perform the pre-drop psi tests first.  Then the post op psi tests to confirm all pumps, bands & seals are functioning properly.

 

Incidentally, a properly adjusted and operating Dynaflow, regardless if it has 80,000 miles on it or has just been rebuilt, when shifted into reverse, one will hear a very slight whirl of the pump and then the reverse action response will be almost immediate and quiet even while backing down the street at 10 miles an hour.  Transmission fluid is just that.  A fluid and not an oil.  It's major functional purpose is to transfer heat and also to allow pressure sensitive equipment a means to be functional.  It should be red and not brown or gray.  Brown would mean burnt fluid and gray would indicate metal filings.  Also if the reverse anchor is non functional for a number of reasons, the car will simply not go into reverse.

 

Edited August 19, 2016 by buick man (see edit history)

[Rosiesdad]

Well.... I spoke with Mike again (of the transmission shop In Castro Valley CA.) now that he has relocated his shop and he now claims I must have jammed the selector into park while moving.  In the 7 years I have owned Bucky that has NEVER happened. The second time I drove the car after the rebuild, park failed and he says it's my fault and I will have to pay him to fix it again. What a crock. I hate suing mechanics but it won't be the first time. $3500.00 with no R&R. for a defective rebuild. 

Beware. Unfortunately there is no one else in the Bay Area to take it to.

Phil

[60FlatTop]

On 8/14/2016 at 10:12 AM, Rosiesdad said:

The rebuilder mentioned when I picked it up that reverse might take a while to smooth out.

"The rebuilder told you he screwed it up when I picked it up. Don't let people say stupid stuff like that to you. That is when you look him dead seriously in the eye and your language gets very deliberate and foul. When you see a little puddle of pee next to his shoe and he calls you Sir that's about the time you will reach an understanding. I have three modes; do it myself, the generous tipper, and really mean. And I love to tip.

Bernie

[NTX5467]

I know that automatic transmissions are a BIG case of multitudes of moving parts which all must be successfully synchronized to work properly.  There are several sub-systems which must work properly, too.  With that understood . . .

 

In theory, to pull things apart, replace the seals and friction items, check for wear on shafts and bushings (dressing, smoothing, or refurbishing as needed), clean, and reassemble, that should fix most anything wrong in the performance area.  Obviously, there can and will be some wear areas in the metallic areas of the frictions' contact, plus possibly some of the wear washers too, which are "select fit" for correct clearances.

 

Valve body mating surfaces might degrade and need some attention for best sealing, just as the seat for every ball bearing "valve" or shuttle valve bore might need some attention, too.  I recently discovered that there are some people who just do valve body reconditioning, but we don't normally consider that in a general rebuild.  Not to forget "the pump"!

 

I suspect that IF a rebuilder advised me of a delayed engagement of reverse when I was about to pay him, I'd inquire as to why that was.  IF he doesn't give a proper answer, even the "too much wear" or "unobtanium", that would not be good enough, which would also signal a "half-___d" job for a premium price, to me.

 

It would probably be best to state, prior to the work being performed, that you know what the (transmission) acted like when new and soon thereafter, which is what IS EXPECTED from the rebuilt unit--period.  Now, we also know there were some production tolerances and such, but everything still needs to be "as new" when the vehicle is delivered to the customer.  Getting THAT known, up front, could be key to "when things don't always work as planned or desired".  These final expectations could be suspected to the implied from any rebuilt assembly, but getting it verbalized and possibly in writing on the repair order prior to work being done build a possible case later on.

 

Sometimes, I think that if we can talk a competent transmission person into rebuilding something they've never done before AND having a knowledge base they can draw upon, expeditiously, might result in better results?  Quality replacement parts and kits are ONE place to start.  Only problem might be that IF they do well, their worst nightmare would be 6 of these cars and owners greeting them on Monday morning!  Naturally, they want to do what they know how to do and "production" is necessary for them to make a decent living.  That generally means stuff they have done before and can do quickly . . .  AND know about.

 

Just some thoughts,

NTX5467

[Beemon]

Do you have it in writing? A lot of these businesses get out of warranties because it's "vintage" and parts are unavailable. I was told I was responsible for anything that happened to my Dynaflow after it left the shop because of how old it was and that they would not honor their usual warranty, which I agreed to. 

 

Also $3500 seems like a huge rip off to me. I had mine rebuilt for a thousand less at the same corner mechanic that does all my other cars. They don't have to be a Dynaflow expert to rebuild one, the title I guess comes with the padded price. 

Edited January 18, 2017 by Beemon (see edit history)

[buick man]

… Beemon yes you are right you don't need to be a Dynaflow expert to rebuild one … but 7 times out of 11 it helps if you want one that still functions properly 10 months or even 2 years after you have it rebuilt … the point is IF done properly and the folks know WHAT to look for in regards to critical ware items etc .. & testing their work throughly, then chances are it will not be a crap shoot 7 or 11 …. as many shops today are sadly just gadget, gasket and sealant junkies with expert pricing … 

[NTX5467]

One observed issue with getting an automatic transmission rebuilt in the middle of a shorter-term "restoration" is "shelf life".  About 20 years ago, a friend was doing a '67 Camaro SS/RS car. He found the desired THM400 transmission and then had it built/beefed for the roller cam 350 he had built for it.  He got the trans done and stored it on is garage floor.  When the rest of the car was ready, the trans was installed.  It hit all gears, so "all was good".  On the drive to the muffler shop, once it shifted out of 1st, it started to "lock down".  The trans shop was very trusted and knowledgeagle in those transmissions, so that part was good.

 

The problem was in the valve body.  It developed some leakage between the fluid circuits, basically doing the same things as a trans brake did.  New valve body and it was fixed.  First time I'd heard of that, at THAT time.  Later, another friend had a similar issue with a TorqueFlite he'd had built a few years prior to installation.  After they got warned-up, "trans brake" action when it shifted to 2nd gear (applying the forward and reverse functions at the same time).

 

Some shops don't like to warranty their work IF there can be something in the mix that they have no control over.  Whether engines or transmissions or whatever . . . "high performance/racing" or "vintage".  Those pesky "installation" things!  Many shops don't have a transmission dyno to check things with prior to handing the assembly to the customer.  One reason it's good for them to have the vehicle, too.  OR perhaps having them come by after installation for the "initial fire-off", for good measure?

 

Many times, hot rodders/restorers will purchase something and then put it aside until it's needed, with full confidence that "all is well".  But that could be years rather than days.  Any warranty starts when the assembly leaves the shop, not after it gets to the receiving vehicle and is installed.  Another THING to ask about before the work is done!

 

NTX5467

[Beemon]

2 hours ago, buick man said:

… Beemon yes you are right you don't need to be a Dynaflow expert to rebuild one … but 7 times out of 11 it helps if you want one that still functions properly 10 months or even 2 years after you have it rebuilt … the point is IF done properly and the folks know WHAT to look for in regards to critical ware items etc .. & testing their work throughly, then chances are it will not be a crap shoot 7 or 11 …. as many shops today are sadly just gadget, gasket and sealant junkies with expert pricing … 

 

It can go either way. I must have called every transmission shop in the area before I settled with my usual place and they were either "experts" or didn't want to take it on. The experts didn't have a test stand or know the difference between a variable pitch or regular Dynaflow or some other piece of info I asked about and the guys who didn't want it were honest in saying they had no experience to tinker and hope for the best. The claimed experts also started raising the prices the more and more you talked to them without little to no information other than they're experts. I like my normal mechanic because the owner is humble and his shop is filled with good guys (they're also specifically a transmission shop but have taken on other issues no problem). I think that's really all it takes, other than disassemble and build it yourself. The term 'expert' is self given these days anyways, since these transmissions are no longer contemporary so anyone who claims to be an expert might just be doing that - claiming to be an expert, as was the case obviously with Mr. Phil Horton.

 

Having experienced many 'experts' in the short two years I've been restoring my Buick has turned me away from anyone who claims to be just that. Expert engine rebuilder installed rear main wrong, sloppy timing chain and one constant noisy lifter. Expert steering component rebuilders returned a sloppy gear box and destroyed my pump. Expert starter and generator rebuilder had my starter grenade itself, who knows when the generator will go out. Expert distributor guy curved my distributor to something that was not a 322 Buick Nailhead when it was rebuilt despite having the necessary paperwork from the shop manual. The only two things I've had rebuilt that I have had absolutely no complaints from are the Dynaflow and rear end (both done at the same shop) - the rear end was a lost cause from the start, but they took the slop out of it so I can't complain, and the Dynaflow has been bulletproof. I learned real quick that without a semblance of a doubt, either have it done by someone who is as passionate about your project as you are, or do it yourself. If they don't care about you, they don't care about their work and you end up burned.

[60FlatTop]

8 hours ago, Beemon said:

Having experienced many 'experts' in the short two years I've been restoring my Buick has turned me away from anyone who claims to be just that.

There is a test to find an expert. Just take an extra copy of your shop manual with you and offer to leave it. If they ask you why, just pick up all your stuff and go home.

 

Back in the 1990's when I was doing a lot of work on collector cars my Wife came out to the garage to find me with a customer's car and reading the shop manual. She said "Did you have a shop manual, already, for their car?" "No, they dropped it off with the car."

"You mean they had the book and they are paying you to do the work?" "Yeah, I guess you could say that." She said "I just can't comprehend that." "Oh, read this paragraph."

Bernie

[NTX5467]

Back in the days of Perry Mason (when many cars were either "new" or "used"), an "expert" was somebody generally felt to be in the top 10% of their game, nationwide.  In later years, an "expert" is somebody that knows more about something than you do.  To me, IF they are self-proclaimed "experts", much more interrogation is necessary to determine if they are "right".  In many cases, the aspects they might be "expert" in might not apply to what YOU are trying to accomplish.

 

It's also possible that any cost/benefit consideration could rule out an "expert" pretty quickly and efficiently.  The word "expert" can also raise the expectations of the consumer (as they also empty their wallet).  Perhaps "experts" also do those "professionally rebuilt" things that don't work right?

 

A detailed written estimate of what's proposed to get done can help determine where the best deal might be, just as with an old body shop written estimate for insurance purposes.  If you know how to read those estimates, you might get a better idea of whom the best repair person/shop might be.  Of course, it's only an "estimate" as "hidden damage" could exist and need repairs in addition to what's already on the estimate.

 

NTX5467

Edited January 23, 2017 by NTX5467 (see edit history)

[60FlatTop]

A person who can't shoot a good game of pool doesn't have the faculties or pragmatism to be trusted to fix anything.

 

And the world has less and less of them each year.

Bernie

[NC-car-guy]

33 minutes ago, 60FlatTop said:

A person who can't shoot a good game of pool doesn't have the faculties or pragmatism to be trusted to fix anything.

 

And the world has less and less of them each year.

Bernie

hey now..:-)

[Beemon]

I play pool on my phone once in a while...

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

5 hours ago, 60FlatTop said:

A person who can't shoot a good game of pool doesn't have the faculties or pragmatism to be trusted to fix anything.

 

And the world has less and less of them each year.

Bernie

 

  I beg your pardon!!  I can fix a lot of "things".  Can't shoot pool for s**t.

 

  Ben

[EmTee]

7 hours ago, 60FlatTop said:

A person who can't shoot a good game of pool doesn't have the faculties or pragmatism to be trusted to fix anything.

 

Does pool volleyball count...? 

[RivNut]

7 hours ago, 60FlatTop said:

A person who can't shoot a good game of pool doesn't have the faculties or pragmatism to be trusted to fix anything.

 

And the world has less and less of them each year.

Bernie

I prefer a good game of snooker or billiards over pool. 

[RivNut]

18 minutes ago, EmTee said:

 

Does pool volleyball count...? 

No but pants pocket pool does.  

[NC-car-guy]

18 minutes ago, RivNut said:

No but pants pocket pool does.  

Um, you need less time over on Willie's foot fetish thread....   ha

[NTX5467]

6 hours ago, First Born said:

 

  I beg your pardon!!  I can fix a lot of "things".  Can't shoot pool for s**t.

 

  Ben

 

I can feel the torque when installing spark plugs, for example, and can listen for how an engine responds to spark advance and/or carb adjustments.  Plus understanding how things work and when they're "right".  But getting the right spin and force on the cue ball to do all of the geometric reactive impacts on the other balls on the table, that takes "practice" for the balls to get in the pockets, even with a two-piece "stick".  Some of the creative contortions to make that happen become less possible with age, by observation.  "Lawn Pool" can be a better game as it gets you out into the open air rather than dimly-lit smoky environments.

 

NTX5467

[60FlatTop]

Snooker, billiards, or pool. I think you are catching the concept. Funny about the creative contortions. That's what people who don't know how to play do. Or pool players you see on TV! I think my point is surfacing.

 

BTW, playing pool on a table you put quarters in is like a mechanic with a garage full of Harbor Freight tools.

[EmTee]

11 hours ago, 60FlatTop said:

BTW, playing pool on a table you put quarters in is like a mechanic with a garage full of Harbor Freight tools.

 

But... They have a 'lifetime' warranty!  (The hand tools anyway.) 

 

That said, I do own a 4 year-old H-F low profile steel floor jack and I really do like it!

[Rosiesdad]

Well.... I spoke with Mike again (of the transmission shop In Castro Valley CA.) now that he has relocated his shop and he now claims I must have jammed the selector into park while moving.  In the 7 years I have owned Bucky that has NEVER happened. The second time I drove the car after the rebuild, park failed and he says it's my fault and I will have to pay him to fix it again. I even offered to help him pull it apart to inspect but he seems to not want that to happen. Hmmmmm. Now he tells me not to drive the car because we don't know if there are loose bits floating around the bottom of the tailshaft housing. He says to take the speedo drive off and fish around with a magnet on a string or such to try and pick anything up in there. I don't know if that is practical or if it's just another stalling technique. Needless to say I am not recommending Mike.

Edited January 25, 2017 by MrEarl
edit out name of shop (see edit history)

[KongaMan]

11 hours ago, Rosiesdad said:

Well.... I spoke with Mike again (of the transmission shop In Castro Valley CA.) now that he has relocated his shop and he now claims I must have jammed the selector into park while moving.  In the 7 years I have owned Bucky that has NEVER happened. The second time I drove the car after the rebuild, park failed and he says it's my fault and I will have to pay him to fix it again. I even offered to help him pull it apart to inspect but he seems to not want that to happen. Hmmmmm. Now he tells me not to drive the car because we don't know if there are loose bits floating around the bottom of the tailshaft housing. He says to take the speedo drive off and fish around with a magnet on a string or such to try and pick anything up in there. I don't know if that is practical or if it's just another stalling technique. Needless to say I am not recommending Mike.

One counteroffer might be that Mike have the car towed to his shop, whereupon he can do said fishing himself.  Followed, of course, by a detailed diagnosis of the problem and a schedule for making the necessary repairs and returning the car to you with a properly functioning transmission.  On his dime, of course.  Or a complete refund.

 

You're not being unreasonable here; you are giving him a choice.

 

BTW, did you pay by credit card?  If you did, contact your credit card company.  They can be a pretty big cudgel in a case like this.; a hold on the funds would get his attention.

Edited January 25, 2017 by MrEarl
edit out name of shop (see edit history)

[EmTee]

10 hours ago, EmTee said:

That said, I do own a 4 year-old H-F low profile steel floor jack and I really do like it!

 

FWIW, I looked around at retail stores in my area and determined that all of the jacks I saw for hobbyists (i.e., not Snap On, etc.) were made offshore.  For my use, I can't justify paying 3 ~ 4 times the price for occasional use.  And yes - I have and use jack stands...

[60FlatTop]

I have a 50 year old Walker 3 Ton jack that I paid $100 for in the early 1990's.  The hydraulics were rebuilt in a shop for about $125. If I was looking for a jack today I would do the same. I have also noticed the newer jacks don't have as fast and crisp a two speed action.

 

A HF jack makes me remember a few years ago when the the NYS DOT was extending the expressway out toward our town. They put out for bids on a bridge over a secondary road specifically for minority contractors. I thought "the bridge? Why not a mile of level surface on either side?"

 

Back on topic

10 hours ago, KongaMan said:

Well.... I spoke with Mike again of the transmission shop In Castro Valley CA.)

 

Mike? Tell then you want to talk the WAYNE!

Bernie

Edited January 25, 2017 by MrEarl
edit out name of shop (see edit history)

[MrEarl]

Folks, please be reminded that the AACA requests we not post company names within comments related to negative experiences such as has been the case here and of which I have edited out. Also please keep on subject and avoid controversial discussions of specific tool brands AND use of what some could consider inappropriate language.    

[buick man]

…. ah-so, vary well said ...