The Ressurection of Daphne - a 1932 DL

[Taylormade]

Just three!  ?  I've heard it's a bit harder to seal up the silicon fluid, but I'm pretty sure it's the washers that are the problem.

[RickBrinker]

When do plan on starting it

[Taylormade]

I know I keep saying this, but hopefully soon.  I'm in the middle of writing a script and it's really been difficult to get any time to work on the car.  I need to check valve clearance and get the oil pressure gauge hooked up and I should be ready to go.  Just remember, the road to hell is paved with good intentions.

[JACK M]

11 hours ago, Taylormade said:

  Just remember, the road to hell is paved with good intentions.

And usually bumpy.

[Taylormade]

Dumb question of the week.  This plate is bolted over the hole in the bellhousing that allows you to see the TDC mark on the flywheel.  I my infinite wisdom I forgot to document this when I took it off three years ago.

 

 

So, which arrow goes on top, the TDC (DC) or the timing mark (IGN 10 degrees)?  The position of the stamped letters indicate DC should be on top, but the position of the metal arrows seem to make more sense with the ING on top.  Any experts out there that can help this confused old guy?

[zeke01]

My guess would be that if the piston was at TDC then line the DC marker with the mark on the flywheel. Zeke

[Phil 32DL6]

56 minutes ago, Taylormade said:

Dumb question of the week.  This plate is bolted over the hole in the bellhousing that allows you to see the TDC mark on the flywheel.  I my infinite wisdom I forgot to document this when I took it off three years ago.

 

 

So, which arrow goes on top, the TDC (DC) or the timing mark (IGN 10 degrees)?  The position of the stamped letters indicate DC should be on top, but the position of the metal arrows seem to make more sense with the ING on top.  Any experts out there that can help this confused old guy?

I'm ALMOST certain IGN is on top. I can report back later, but I can't check right away.

[Taylormade]

Thanks, Phil.  Man, am I glad I have a friend with an original car!

[Spinneyhill]

If you crank it the same way I crank mine, it is turning clockwise viewed from the front. IGN is c. 10 deg. BTDC so that pointer must come first as the flywheel turns.

 

So if the window it mounts on is on the LHS, it would be on top. If the window is on the RHS, the IGN pointer will be on the bottom. I suppose what this means is that where-ever it mounts, the pointers are pointing at the crankshaft.

[Taylormade]

That's affirmative to all your comments.  It mounts on the left (driver side) and the crank rotates clockwise from the front.  IGN pointer should be on top, which I'm sure Phil will confirm when he gets a chance.  And finding TDC with the rod on the piston places the flywheel mark dead on the D.C. pointer if it's on the bottom.  I also noticed that when the number one piston is TDC, the hand crank handle points straight down.

[JACK M]

With the tool you used to find TDC this should be a no brainer.

You found TDC by going to the trouble of removing that plug over #6 piston, so the pointer should indicate TDC (DC) on your flywheel at the same time.

 

The best way to confirm exact TDC is to build a piston stop. In your case maybe your old plug from #6 cylinder.

I use an old spark plug with an adjustable screw running thru it and protruding around an inch or so into the cylinder.

Rotate the engine BY HAND until the piston touches the stop then make a mark on the flywheel or front pulley, wherever you timing marks are, then turn the engine in the opposite direction BY HAND until the piston hits the stop again and make a like mark on the flywheel or pulley.

The midpoint between these marks will be the exact top dead center.

 

In your case you would need to do this thru the plug hole that is over the piston.

Have fun !!

[Taylormade]

Good method, Jack.  Between the movement of the rod and the mark on the flywheel, I think I'm in good shape.  If there were no marks on the flywheel, I would certainly use your suggestion.

[Gunsmoke]

Your timing pointer is installed properly, i.e. ignition will occur at a angle before TDC. When I set timing on my '31 Chevrolet (194CI OHV 6), factory specs caled for timing at 12 degrees BTDC, and a sparkplug gap of 28 Thou. Tech advisors on Vintage Chev site indicated that modern fuels were much different than fuels from the 1930's, and that they found the Chev engines ran better with a wider plug gap (36-40 thou), and timing set at 16-18 degrees BTDC. I set mine there and as a result don't ever have to use spark advance, and engine starts and runs nicely. An experienced mechanic used to old Chevs adjusted timing a bit further when engine was running by loosening collar on distributor and rotating Distributor a couple of degrees. As I understand it, flywheel makes 2 full revolutions for one revolution of distributor rotor button. So 2 degrees rotation of Dist will be eguivalent of 4 degrees at flywheel. Not sure if a Dodge 6 can be tuned up the same way, but those old time mechanics seemed to be able to fine tune these engines (timing/carburation) by ear, a lost skill I'm guessing. I use feeler gauges, timing lights, vacuum gauges, detailed manuals, etc, and can never get it as good!! TMI! Great Photos.

[Phil 32DL6]

Here's your confirmation, Dick.

[Taylormade]

Thanks Phil - and everyone else who posted.  Lots of good information.  I'm always amazed at the help and support I get on this forum.

[Taylormade]

Oh, boy, this isn't going to be good.  I was taking a look at my door latch mechanisms today.  The driver side front seemed to work fine after I did a little cleaning and lube, but the passenger side was binding badly and just didn't want to move.  So, I began by comparing the two to see if I could spot any differences that might be causing the problem.  Uh, yeah, it didn't take long.  Check this out...

 

Driver side on the left, passenger on the right.  I'm sure you can spot the problem, even without the arrows I've so thoughtfully provided.  The sheet metal housing on the passenger unit has split in two places and is bent three ways from Sunday.  Notice that the drivers unit is also beginning to split, but hasn't reached the catastrophic failure of the other side.

 

 

Realistically, the chances of finding replacements is slim to none.  I'm not sure if these could be welded up, but if so, I'm going to have to take them apart.  This brings up my next question - how do you remove the circular springs.  I've seen replacements for sale, so I'm sure they can be removed.

 

 

This is the back side.  Do I bend the two tabs in the circle to get the spring off?

 

 

If anyone has run into this problem before, I'd sure like to hear your solution.  I'm afraid the stress on this part means it's going to take a very good weld to fix it.  The thinness of the metal makes me think it's not a feasible fix.

[Spinneyhill]

It is like the pin locks on my under-mount mower. Lift the spring straight up from the plate it is against and slide it out.

 

Lift the two coils at the green arrows and slide in the direction of the yellow. Piecacake.

 

[countrytravler]

Send me the measurements and ill look in the stockpile. Have a couple  hundred of them from the cars that Mike has strip thru the years.

Dave

[ply33]

3 hours ago, Taylormade said:

Realistically, the chances of finding replacements is slim to none. 

 

I think I have a couple of those for '33/'34 Plymouth but they look really similar. If you can post a photo or two of yours from various angles with a ruler I'll check to see if mine are the same. If they are correct then they are yours.

[Taylormade]

Thanks for the offer.  Maybe we'll get lucky.  This is the good one, so the one I really need is a mirror image.

 

 

 

Edited November 19, 2016 by Taylormade (see edit history)

[ply33]

1 hour ago, Taylormade said:

Thanks for the offer.  Maybe we'll get lucky.  This is the good one, so the one I really need is a mirror image.

 

Here is what I received years as extra stuff in a box containing some parts I needed. Looks like it might be close other than the "U" shape is not quite as rectangular as the ones you show. Otherwise the dimensions match. One for each side of the fully disassembled ones (received that way) and one of the side you need assembled. If you want them, PM your address to me (I might already have it, but just in case) and I'll send them on out to you.

 

 

[Taylormade]

Looks close enough to me.  PM sent.  Thank you!

[ply33]

1 hour ago, Taylormade said:

Looks close enough to me.  PM sent.  Thank you!

Should be there Tuesday.

[Taylormade]

Ply33, they arrived this morning.  They appear to be very close to my parts.  I'll have a better idea once I get them cleaned up.  Size and bolt spacing is the same.  A few odd holes in slightly different places, but they don't seem to be important to the operation of the mechanism.  Thanks again.

[ply33]

I was just going to check the tracking number and then I saw your post. I hope they work out for you.

[keiser31]

I love it when a plan comes together!

[knobless]

if you are also looking for the spring keepers on your car I have them for sale on here, they look like they will fit , they fit 33/34 Dodge and Plymouth, when you get to that point

Steve

$15 a set (2) free shipping

 

Edited December 10, 2016 by knobless
Pricing (see edit history)

[knobless]

[Taylormade]

On 11/23/2016 at 3:38 PM, knobless said:

if you are also looking for the spring keepers on your car I have them for sale on here, they look like they will fit , they fit 33/34 Dodge and Plymouth, when you get to that point

Steve

 

Thanks Steve, I may need them.

[Taylormade]

Awhile ago I posted some shots of my worn pitman arm and drag link.  I wasn't sure if I could get these items repaired and I wasn't having much luck finding NOS parts other than threaded inserts and new internal springs.  Then Curti on this site suggested I contact  Jeff Holzmer in Woodbury, Minnesota.  He replaced the pitman arm balls on several Auburns for Curti and came highly recommended.  Since my pitman arm was very similar, if not identical to the Auburn arm, I thought I'd get in touch.  He agreed to work on mine and also to repair my damaged drag link.  I just got the parts back today and I'm very happy with the work.  Here are some before and after photos.

 

The pitman arm before...

 

 

 

 

And after.

 

 

 

 

And the drag link before and after.

 

 

 

The other end.

 

 

 

Another problem solved.

 

 

 

 

[Taylormade]

Some luck on ebay.  I found these grab straps.  They are not a perfect match for the originals, but their close enough and NOS to boot.  I discovered they just don't make these things anymore.  Even LeBaron Bonney couldn't help me.  They also happen to be the correct color for my interior.

 

 

 

[maok]

54 minutes ago, Taylormade said:

Awhile ago I posted some shots of my worn pitman arm and drag link.  I wasn't sure if I could get these items repaired and I wasn't having much luck finding NOS parts other than threaded inserts and new internal springs.  Then Curti on this site suggested I contact  Jeff Holzmer in Woodbury, Minnesota.  He replaced the pitman arm balls on several Auburns for Curti and came highly recommended.  Since my pitman arm was very similar, if not identical to the Auburn arm, I thought I'd get in touch.  He agreed to work on mine and also to repair my damaged drag link.  I just got the parts back today and I'm very happy with the work.  Here are some before and after photos.

 

The pitman arm before...

 

 

 

 

And after.

 

 

 

 

And the drag link before and after.

 

 

 

The other end.

 

 

 

Another problem solved.

 

 

 

 

A skilled surgeon no doubt.

[Phil 32DL6]

Looks like Curti steered you straight! 

[knobless]

On 5/21/2016 at 5:03 PM, Taylormade said:

I sealed them with thread lock, but that was the area that seemed to be leaking.  I don't know what else to try to seal the threads.

Plumbers pipe dope?

[Taylormade]

The tranny leak was solved, but thanks for the suggestion.

[Taylormade]

Trying to determine the correct horn position for the 32 motor.  My horn was off the car when I got it - Phil took it off to restore - but the mount doesn't fit any stud pattern on the head.  I have pictures of horns on different 32s and none seem quite the same.  The horn I have is a Klaxon 18B, but I'm not really sure this is the correct horn as a different type shows up in some of the pictures i have.  I found a nice mount that matches up with the back studs in about the same position as in the first picture.  But it also matches up with studs toward the front of the motor as seen in some of the other shots.

 

This is a shot of a very original DL that I suspect may be correct.

 

 

And another similar setup.

 

 

But check out these other versions.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 13, 2016 by Taylormade (see edit history)

[keiser31]

I know that a few things were different in 1931, but my original '31 had the horn in this location....

[Phil 32DL6]

Dick...

 

If you have other shots of those DLs (one's that may be able to tell you if they are early or late production examples) you MAY start to see a front or back horn location correlation...IF there is one.

[Taylormade]

Good point, Phil, we have learned there were numerous changes during the DL model run.  This could be another instance.  Maybe the guy who was putting the bumpers on upside down was moved over to horn installation on the assembly line.

[Taylormade]

Keiser, do you have a close shot of your horn mount?  Preferably on the car - assuming it's still on either of your cars.