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Phil 32DL6

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About Phil 32DL6

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  • Birthday 02/26/1947

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  1. Hey Tory...Here's a photo of the two ways I've seen the front bumper elements mounted. I consider the right side the correct way for two reasons: the most important being that it matches the illustrations that were done for the ads at the time. Those ads would have been prepared before the cars were manufactured and sold to meet the magazine production deadlines, so the illustrations would have been drawn by artists who had access to the original design drawings. The second reason is, as a designer/illustrator myself, the way the bumper looks in the right photo matches the lines of the rest of
  2. Maaaybe, but that stuff was so evenly coated on most of the underside that I always assumed (like you) that it was some sort of aftermarket undercoating. Usually stuff from a leak shows a pattern originating from the source.
  3. Good going! Reminds me of the feeling when I got her going again after 15 years of sitting idle! Can't wait to get a ride in her once again!
  4. What is this, an epidemic? In late January I woke up in the middle of the night with a severe pain in my upper back. Then my index finger went numb. Doc said it was a pinched nerve in my neck. After weeks of running on empty over constant pain, 3 hours of sleep a night, medication, & physical therapy I'm finally nearly back to normal. Naturally, I've been in no position to crawl under my car and work on the clutch again. They say spring is coming...
  5. My current car. If I remember correctly, I installed a simple inline toggle switch on Daphne when I owned her, and the feed wire was attached to the negative post on the original fuse "box." I never had a problem with that set up, but, as I said it CAN lead to problems. So on my latest DL, I bought a NOS clamp-on fused switch (that matched my heater switch) and ran a wire to the negative post on the main fuse "box." BTW, the reasons I like adding a switch for the electric fuel pump are twofold: it allows you to use it to "prime" the carb in the winter, and starve the carb in case y
  6. And, if you DO end up installing an electric fuel pump, make sure it's on it's own fused & switched circuit. Mine wasn't when I bought the car, and when I turned the headlights on during my first night drive, a short in a headlight blew the fuse. The pump stopped and I soon ran out of gas on a busy turnpike at dusk!
  7. I think it was a brain flop instead. I had the flopped photo ready to upload when I realized that i had wanted to put the red arrow in. So I went back and put that in but forgot to flop the newly revised photo...thus the original true mirror image look. And, yes, yours has the throttle linkage in the back of the carb while mine has it at the front, so mine just shows a flush pivot shaft in back. My throttle linkage is intimately tied in with the auto clutch linkages in front.
  8. As further reference on this, mine seems to have a simple plug installed...probably brass?...probably factory installed? (Image taken in a mirror, then flopped)
  9. Also, I've heard it said that the original engine color used was a more neutral, "truer" gray, and that the greenish tinge we see on original cars today is a result of color shift due to aging. Since people assume that the greenish tinge was what the original color was like, that's what's being matched today on repaint jobs. I haven't verified that as fact, and I'm wondering if anyone else has reliable info to pass on? Here's what I used after doing a complete valve job a few years ago.
  10. Personally, I wouldn't worry about it. My DL drives all day at 140ºF and idles at 140º once it's warmed up. Me? I'd test run it for sure!
  11. I know that the Auto Clutch was available on '32 Chryslers, but the diagrams you've shown from the manual don't show an Auto Clutch system on that motor. Here are a few pics from my '32 DB that show that the backwards curving crankcase vent pipe was needed to clear the large canister (#1) and the canister piston's linkage (#2) to the clutch at the back of the canister. The last picture shows the pipe just behind the linkage.
  12. I also used white grease when I redid mine several years ago.
  13. Sounds simple (and you'll soon know if it's too simple to be true! ) Reading through the procedure I noted that there's some duplication (ie. Stage A, #2 inlet, Stage B, both valves) but I guess you can use that as a double check. Using 4 hands? Now that's cheating!!
  14. Dick... Here's another one. This is from the green '32 RS Coupe near me that was for sale. Again, this is a very original, early production car, the bracket is mounted forward, and, not only looks original, but looks to be the same as the other one I posted. Note that the horn is slightly different (shorter housing in back).
  15. Dick...This is probably as good an answer as any. This is a close up I took of that very original blue sedan up in Vermont that was for sale recently. It's an early production car like yours. The horn is mounted towards the front and the mount looks pretty original to me. (Yes, it was missing the loom for the ignition wires.)
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