The Ressurection of Daphne - a 1932 DL

[Phil 32DL6]

Dick... I know you have this info but others may want to see it.

 

Here's the lube chart from the '32 DL Owner's Manual showing the configuration of the exhaust system. Note the single pipe from the exhaust manifold to the muffler.

 

I know at least part of my exhaust system was replaced at some time because that frame bracket aft of the muffler is missing. I DO have a non-ribbed, round muffler although that probably is an accurate replacement.

[Taylormade]

I should have thought to look at the manual before pretending to be an expert!  So, for a change, my car actually has something closer to original than yours.  I think this is a first.  I had a new exhaust frame bracket made up, but I think the rubber and the bracket were vulcanized together.  I still have the rubber piece with a metal backing with two integral studs for attachment.  I just have to figure out how it all went together.

My muffler is ribbed, so it's not technically stock, but it will do just fine and is exactly the right size.  It sure looks better than the old Midas that was on it when we owned it.

Edited August 11, 2016 by Taylormade (see edit history)

[Spinneyhill]

On Phil's car, what are those rods or tubes that appear to be going under the exhaust to something in front of the carb. and above the fuel pump? The odd bend looks like it is to get the pipe over and past them.

 

Is it for a vacuum assisted gear change mechanism?

Edited August 12, 2016 by Spinneyhill (see edit history)

[Phil 32DL6]

2 minutes ago, Spinneyhill said:

On Phil's car, what are those rods or tubes that appear to be going under the exhaust to something in front of the carb. and above the fuel pump? The odd bend looks like it is to get the pipe over and past them.

Ooooooo...welcome to the world of the Auto Clutch! One of Chrysler's experiments in the early '30s to attract women drivers by making it easier to shift by avoiding double-clutching.

 

All of that spaghetti causes all sorts of intake vacuum problems and has been deactivated on my car. (I've left it on for authenticity.) She shifts just fine without that AND the much touted Freewheeling feature...also deactivated.

 

BTW, that "tall air cleaner" Dick referred to earlier is actually a rare Burgess intake silencer that was stock on the '32s. The air cleaner sits atop the silencer...or fits on the carb's intake as is usually seen since the silencers were often thrown away by repair shops.

 

 

[countrytravler]

Hey, big T! Have you seen this?

Awesome car!! In LA area.

 

 

[Taylormade]

One of the first videos I found when I repurchased my car.

[JACK M]

The best way to preserve the header and exhaust manifold is ceramic coating.

Absolutely not original, but a silver color will look like raw metal and will never rust.

I have not found any hi temp paint that lasts.

[Taylormade]

6 hours ago, JACK M said:

The best way to preserve the header and exhaust manifold is ceramic coating.

Absolutely not original, but a silver color will look like raw metal and will never rust.

I have not found any hi temp paint that lasts.

Thanks, I had the header coated, but it's and expensive process and I really don't have the budget to do the exhaust pipe, too.  I'll try the ultra-high temp paint and see what happens.

[keiser31]

16 minutes ago, Taylormade said:

Thanks, I had the header coated, but it's and expensive process and I really don't have the budget to do the exhaust pipe, too.  I'll try the ultra-high temp paint and see what happens.

Are you going to paint the exhaust pipe? I don't believe they were painted from the factory. Maybe some high temp clear coat would do.

[30dodge35]

Eastwood exhaust paint , inexpensive alternative, looks good and can be redone on car from time to time. Come in stainless steel color

Edited August 12, 2016 by 30dodge35 (see edit history)

[Phil 32DL6]

23 hours ago, Taylormade said:

It sure looks better than the old Midas that was on it when we owned it.

 

I'll take full responsibility for that one. In 1967 when you were 20 years old, still in school, no job yet, and your new wife was making a whopping $3,800 a year...you did what you could to keep the old buggy on the road. Authenticity be damned!

[Taylormade]

I'm normally pretty impressed with Dodge Brothers engineering on my DL.  But I have to say that the design of the Floating Power set-up on my car is really awful.  This may stem from it being the first year and trying to shoehorn a new design into existing engine and transmission parts, but getting this thing right has been a real learning experience.  Phil Kennedy warned me about this when we discussed his removal of his oil pan, but it apparently went in one ear and out the other and I have been smugly assuming I had everything properly in place and ready to go.

WRONG!

As previous photos have shown, I had the transmission back in, the leaks fixed, a new throwout bearing, bearing tube lubed, and the rear rubber Floating Power mount attached to both the trans and the frame projections.  I checked everything twice, made sure all bolts were tight and got ready to install the easiest job of all - bolt the flywheel cover to the bellhousing.  Nothing to it, right?  Just hold it up there and install the bolts.

 

 

So, I go to put it in place - and it doesn't fit.  Hmmm, that projection at the front is supposed to go - oh, no! - under everything I have installed over the last six months!  Who designed this nightmare?

Here's a shot of the bare frame before anything went in.  The arrow is pointing to the transmission brace.  That rectangular lump of rubber on the top is the Floating Power middle mount.  A brace that's attached to the bottom of the motor at the rear of the engine rests on the rubber.

 

 

A little caveat to DL owners out there (I know there aren't that many of us) - I had this mount re-vulcanized by Then And Now Automotive and they did a nice job.  My old mount had two thick shims under it.  I found the rebuilt mount was too high with the shims in place and the front motor mount was a quarter of an inch off the frame.  I'm not sure if the shims were added at some point when the old rubber started to deteriorate, or if the original rubber was not as high as the redone mount.  So check this out if you ever replace your mounts.

 

It turns out I had to remove a ton of stuff to get this cover on.  First I had to remove the transmission brace that I so proudly installed last summer.

 

  Then I had to take off the metal support located between the back of the oil pan and the bellhousing.  Now I had a clear shot to attach the flywheel cover.

 

 

Next, I put the Floating Power support back in.  The top of the rubber rests on the middle of this.

 

 

This is a very poor design.  This brace uses bolts that also attach the oil pan to the block.  This causes the oil pan gasket to compress as the brace contacts the rubber mount.  It also makes removing the pan to clean it a real chore as you have to take everything apart to get to it.  At the very least, they should have used a stud so you could bolt the pan up, then put another nut on the stud, then the mount.  That way there is no pressure on the gasket.  If my pan gasket starts leaking, I may redesign the part.  It's just flat steel bent to shape and I think there is enough room in there to reduce the height and make it fit.

 

Finally, the transmission brace went back it - and that's a real pain to get everything lined up so all the bolts will fit into their holes.

 

Thus ends a four hour job I was planning to do in ten minutes.

 

 

[Taylormade]

30 minutes ago, keiser31 said:

Are you going to paint the exhaust pipe? I don't believe they were painted from the factory. Maybe some high temp clear coat would do.

Couldn't find any clear.  I'm just going with satin black.  Not totally authentic, but, then, neither are my air cleaner and carb.  I'm tired of waiting for mail order stuff to come in.  I want to get this old girl started in the next week or two.

[keiser31]

I hope I didn't sound picky. I was just curious.

[jpage]

I painted my Model A exhaust with Krylon high heat aluminum and it lasted a long time. When it did get ugly, I just removed it, cleaned it off and repainted. Looked good for 16 years and the stuff never burned off! If you use the Krylon Black high heat, you first have to coat it with the aluminum or it will peel.

[Taylormade]

Not picky at all.  I get real encouragement from all you guys, just by the fact you take the time reading this seemingly endless thread.  Any and all suggestions, comments, complaints and criticism are welcome.

[Ian_Greenlaw]

Look on the bright side......they must have changed the design of bye flywheel cover by 34 so for once I can say......I didn't have that problem.

Only 6,000 other problems but just not that one !

[Taylormade]

Despite the heat I'm managing about eight hours a day out in the garage.  I just installed the last bit of the infamous Floating Power set-up.  It's a Rube Goldberg thingy - a leaf spring that I assume is designed to dampen the torque rotation of the motor in it's rubber mounts.  It's attached to the bellhousing and the end of the spring rests in a rubber cushion attached to the frame.  This was, for a change, easy to install.

 

 

[keiser31]

Lookin' GOOD!

[Taylormade]

Aside from installing the gas tank, the frame is finally done.  This is what it looked like a little less than three years ago.

 

 

 

 

Here it is today after a lot of work and many, many learning experiences.

 

 

 

I thought I would go through what's been done so far, more for my own satisfaction than anything else.

Motor rebuilt - bored, new pistons, rings, valves and valve springs.,

Rebuilt water pump, rebuilt generator, starter and distributor, all new wiring and hoses.

New plugs, coated manifold, all new manifold studs, rebuilt correct carburetor, new exhaust pipe and muffler.  All new gaskets and seals.

Totally rebuilt transmission with all new seals and bearings.  Main drive gear replaced due to chipped tooth.  Emergency brake relined, mechanism cleaned and rebuilt.

Brake and clutch pedals re-bushed.  Clutch mechanism rebuilt.  Master cylinder relined and rebuilt.

 

More to come - I've run out of photo space.

 

 

Edited August 13, 2016 by Taylormade (see edit history)

[jan arnett (2)]

What color is your engine.  It is close to the color I want to paint my Moon.  Nice job.

 

Thanks

[keiser31]

WOW!

[Taylormade]

New toolbox and battery tray, replacing the rusted mess that was there.

New running boards made to the original pattern.  I have the correct trim and rubber and will tackle that soon.

Rebuilt u-joints, new cork lining, new rear seal in tranny, shaft wear corrected with Speedi-Sleeve.

 

All new bearings and seals in the differential.  New linings in the brake cylinders, new rubber brake hose, new cunifer brake lines.  Sorry about the filler on the rear panel, I just put it on to check the fit.

 

New kingpins, shock rebuilt with new seals, new tie rod ends.

 

Nice radiator I bought at Hershey - cleaned, pressure and flow tested.  New chrome on the radiator shell.

All chrome completed and ready to go.  The bumpers are under our bed at the moment.

Wheels cleaned and balanced.  Powder coated. New tires, new tubes, new bearings.

And that's about it.  I'm currently color sanding the fenders, this is at the 1500 grit stage.  Still have 3000 and 5000 grit to go.

The body is painted but needs color sanding.  Here's what see looks like wearing her clothes.  I can't wait to get the body back on again.  This was a test fit.

I think the gas tank is the next project.  Thanks to those of you who waded through all of this.

 

 

 

[Taylormade]

12 minutes ago, jan arnett (2) said:

What color is your engine.  It is close to the color I want to paint my Moon.  Nice job.

 

Thanks

It's a gray I had mixed based on a few areas that still had some paint left on them.  It's very close to Dupli-color Ford Gray, but a bit more green.

[keiser31]

Thanks for sharing all of the ins, outs and details on your car!

[Phil 32DL6]

Daphne's looking brand spanking new!

[Taylormade]

Phil,

I dreamed about doing this for forty five years.  Thanks for keeping her safe so l could fulfill my dream.  When I found out she'd survived it was one of the best days of my life - and getting her back was even better.

[Spinneyhill]

I love it.

 

What is the wee chimney on the bell housing for?

 

The crank case breather tube looks short. I think my DC version goes below the sump mounting line.

Edited August 14, 2016 by Spinneyhill (see edit history)

[ply33]

11 minutes ago, Spinneyhill said:

I love it.

 

What is the wee chimney on the bell housing for?

 

The crank case breather tube looks short. I think my DC version goes below the sump mounting line.

 

Yes, what is that chimney on the bell housing?

 

And I am pretty sure that the draft tube needs to extend into the air flow under the car to do any good. Does it look like your draft tube might have been cut at some time in the past?

[Spinneyhill]

I can confirm my DC breather tube extends 80 or 90 mm below the sump mounting line.

 

Have a look in your owner's manual. Mine (and the DD-6 manual) have a sectional view and show the breather tube extending down like this.

 

Found it. Plate 35 p. D-6-D in the Master Parts List. The tube on the clutch housing hand hole cover should be inwards = downwards! But what is it for?

 

Edited August 14, 2016 by Spinneyhill (see edit history)

[keiser31]

55 minutes ago, Spinneyhill said:

I can confirm my DC breather tube extends 80 or 90 mm below the sump mounting line.

 

Have a look in your owner's manual. Mine (and the DD-6 manual) have a sectional view and show the breather tube extending down like this.

 

Found it. Plate 35 p. D-6-D in the Master Parts List. The tube on the clutch housing hand hole cover should be inwards = downwards! But what is it for?

 

I was wondering about that since in that position, it would protrude through the floorboard.

[Taylormade]

This is why this forum is so helpful - to save idiots like myself from making even more mistakes than usual!  The bellhousing cover was a true senior moment.  I've had it on before - correctly - and have no idea why I decided to put it on the wrong way just to proudly display my work all over the forum.  Here is the correct orientation.  And I don't know what it's for, either.  I think it's a vent, but  for....?

 

 

 

As far as the breather tube goes, this is going to be a problem.  Apparently, someone cut it off.  It certainly wasn't me, and I doubt that Phil would have been so cruel, so it must have been sometime before we owned the car - shrouded in the mysteries of the past.  Why someone would do this is beyond me, unless the bottom of the tube rusted off, but the top is in excellent, solid shape, so I kind of doubt that.  Does anyone out there have a tube I can purchase?  If not, I may be able to find tubing of the correct diameter and get it welded on.  In this shot you can see the cut edges of the tube and the rough metal inside indicative of someone taking a hacksaw to it.

 

Are other year breather tubes the same?

 

[ply33]

41 minutes ago, Taylormade said:

 

Are other year breather tubes the same?

 

 

Got a Dodge part number for that? The mounting and shape where it attaches to the block look very much the same as for my '33 Plymouth. Could be the same as for other later year Chrysler built vehicles which would make it much easier to find.

[JACK M]

My pusher motor home has a draft tube that was manufactured to short.

Every one like mine that I see now has been extended with a rubber hose cut at an angle.

[keiser31]

I believe the tube is the same for the 1931s, also.

[Phil 32DL6]

1 hour ago, Taylormade said:

I doubt that Phil would have been so cruel, so it must have been sometime before we owned the car.

Must have been. And I never would have given any thought to the length of that pipe back then.

Of course, since the splash pans were gone we probably had plenty of air circulation under there. Still, wonder why the hack job?

Maybe pics later.

 

Here's what I found in the Master Parts list.

Crankcase Ventilator Outlet Assembly: 390017

Crankcase Ventilator Outlet Pipe Gasket: 301034

Crankcase Ventilator Outlet Pipe Baffle: 626329

[Johnthistle]

On August 11, 2016 at 11:56 PM, Taylormade said:

One of the first videos I found when I repurchased my car.

Re: 

[Johnthistle]

Re oil breather tube. My master parts book shows tube extending below oil pan for  DP-DQ but only half way down the oil pan for DD, DE, DH, DI ,DL. and the 8 cal engines. 

Taylormade, I too have thoroughly enjoyed and admired your step by step beautiful work. You are way aheD of me with my DH sedan! JT

[ply33]

1 hour ago, Phil 32DL6 said:

Must have been. And I never would have given any thought to the length of that pipe back then.

Of course, since the splash pans were gone we probably had plenty of air circulation under there. Still, wonder why the hack job?

Maybe pics later.

 

Here's what I found in the Master Parts list.

Crankcase Ventilator Outlet Assembly: 390017

Crankcase Ventilator Outlet Pipe Gasket: 301034

Crankcase Ventilator Outlet Pipe Baffle: 626329

 

Gasket 301034 is used on all '28 through '48 Plymouths if I read my parts books correctly. The other numbers I don't see in my books.

 

Not a matter of how much air is moving around inside the engine compartment, the draft tube works off the Venturi effect and thus the tip needs to be below the car so a partial vacuum is created as the car moves forward.

Edited August 14, 2016 by ply33 (see edit history)

[Phil 32DL6]

28 minutes ago, ply33 said:

Not a matter of how much air is moving around inside the engine compartment, the draft tube works off the Venturi effect and thus the tip needs to be below the car so a partial vacuum is created as the car moves forward.

The Venturi effect works with ANY moving air...the more air there is, and the faster the air moves, the stronger the effect.

So, SOME more air moving within the engine compartment due to a lack of pans will give more vacuum than less air. No question the best vacuum will be obtained with the pipe below the engine compartment and the opening angled towards the rear.