Phil 32DL6

Any car driven with its Freewheeling active is eventually going to have worn brake parts! (You can blame both of us!)

Hey Tory...Here's a photo of the two ways I've seen the front bumper elements mounted. I consider the right side the correct way for two reasons: the most important being that it matches the illustrations that were done for the ads at the time. Those ads would have been prepared before the cars were manufactured and sold to meet the magazine production deadlines, so the illustrations would have been drawn by artists who had access to the original design drawings. The second reason is, as a designer/illustrator myself, the way the bumper looks in the right photo matches the lines of the rest of the front of the car better than in the left photo. The fact that you see a bunch of DLs with the bumpers like on the left suggests to me that workers at the factory may not have always put the components together correctly and the inspectors didn't catch it..or care.

Maaaybe, but that stuff was so evenly coated on most of the underside that I always assumed (like you) that it was some sort of aftermarket undercoating. Usually stuff from a leak shows a pattern originating from the source.

Good going! Reminds me of the feeling when I got her going again after 15 years of sitting idle! Can't wait to get a ride in her once again!

What is this, an epidemic? In late January I woke up in the middle of the night with a severe pain in my upper back. Then my index finger went numb. Doc said it was a pinched nerve in my neck. After weeks of running on empty over constant pain, 3 hours of sleep a night, medication, & physical therapy I'm finally nearly back to normal. Naturally, I've been in no position to crawl under my car and work on the clutch again. They say spring is coming...

My current car. If I remember correctly, I installed a simple inline toggle switch on Daphne when I owned her, and the feed wire was attached to the negative post on the original fuse "box." I never had a problem with that set up, but, as I said it CAN lead to problems. So on my latest DL, I bought a NOS clamp-on fused switch (that matched my heater switch) and ran a wire to the negative post on the main fuse "box." BTW, the reasons I like adding a switch for the electric fuel pump are twofold: it allows you to use it to "prime" the carb in the winter, and starve the carb in case you flood it (although that's hard to do on a DL's updraft carb!). Also, it acts as another layer of theft-proof security if you turn it off when you park the car. A thief won't get far on only a float bowl full of gas!

And, if you DO end up installing an electric fuel pump, make sure it's on it's own fused & switched circuit. Mine wasn't when I bought the car, and when I turned the headlights on during my first night drive, a short in a headlight blew the fuse. The pump stopped and I soon ran out of gas on a busy turnpike at dusk!

I think it was a brain flop instead. I had the flopped photo ready to upload when I realized that i had wanted to put the red arrow in. So I went back and put that in but forgot to flop the newly revised photo...thus the original true mirror image look. And, yes, yours has the throttle linkage in the back of the carb while mine has it at the front, so mine just shows a flush pivot shaft in back. My throttle linkage is intimately tied in with the auto clutch linkages in front.

As further reference on this, mine seems to have a simple plug installed...probably brass?...probably factory installed? (Image taken in a mirror, then flopped)

Here's another wha'zit? http://www.ebay.com/itm/1932-Dodge-Woody-/222508143309?hash=item33ce84d2cd:g:RUMAAOSwtGlZCka1&vxp=mtr

Also, I've heard it said that the original engine color used was a more neutral, "truer" gray, and that the greenish tinge we see on original cars today is a result of color shift due to aging. Since people assume that the greenish tinge was what the original color was like, that's what's being matched today on repaint jobs. I haven't verified that as fact, and I'm wondering if anyone else has reliable info to pass on? Here's what I used after doing a complete valve job a few years ago.

Nicely done! I'd patent that sucker...er, pumper before someone else does!

Until you get the oil flowing, I'm thinking it would be a good idea to occasionally squirt a little oil down those open plug holes.

Personally, I wouldn't worry about it. My DL drives all day at 140ºF and idles at 140º once it's warmed up. Me? I'd test run it for sure!

I know that the Auto Clutch was available on '32 Chryslers, but the diagrams you've shown from the manual don't show an Auto Clutch system on that motor. Here are a few pics from my '32 DB that show that the backwards curving crankcase vent pipe was needed to clear the large canister (#1) and the canister piston's linkage (#2) to the clutch at the back of the canister. The last picture shows the pipe just behind the linkage.

I also used white grease when I redid mine several years ago.

Sounds simple (and you'll soon know if it's too simple to be true! ) Reading through the procedure I noted that there's some duplication (ie. Stage A, #2 inlet, Stage B, both valves) but I guess you can use that as a double check. Using 4 hands? Now that's cheating!!

Oh, no offense taken—my original post was dripping with sarcasm. I feel the same anger and sadness when someone does naughty things to a '32 DL like mine. But look at the great info that's streaming in. Love that Expando Salesmobile ad!

Just needs a custom interior and you're ready for adventure! http://www.ebay.com/itm/1931-Dodge-Other-Motorhome-House-Car-/302219166622?forcerrptr=true&hash=item465daa839e:g:P8gAAOSw2xRYmzog&item=302219166622

http://albany.craigslist.org/cto/5965352489.html I saw this car listed on Craigslist back in November 2016. I wasn't really interested in it because I already have a very original DL that I've put a lot of work into. The photos looked good so I wanted to find out if I could help find a good home for it. A few days later my wife & I drove from central CT up to VT to take a look and even drove it around the yard. It is in extremely original condition with all of its original parts. It has the rare intake silencer, factory installed carb, horn, interior, and complete auto clutch system. With around 65K miles it's not in pristine condition, but very presentable. It started and ran smoothly. Upon close inspection I found that there was original green paint under the blue outer coat which is cracking & peeling in a few spots. It needs a new roof. The chrome is in great condition for its age. The tires are old and cracked. As was leaving the owner told me that if it didn't sell it that week he was going to hot-rod it over this winter. I told him that would be a real shame. The next week it disappeared off Craigslist. I'd given her up for lost but today I saw it was relisted! I hope someone out there gets interested enough to contact the owner...or you can ask to see more of my own pics I took back in November.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY JACK! (Check your rear view mirror...there are a whole bunch of us following you!)

Dick... Here's another one. This is from the green '32 RS Coupe near me that was for sale. Again, this is a very original, early production car, the bracket is mounted forward, and, not only looks original, but looks to be the same as the other one I posted. Note that the horn is slightly different (shorter housing in back).

Dick...This is probably as good an answer as any. This is a close up I took of that very original blue sedan up in Vermont that was for sale recently. It's an early production car like yours. The horn is mounted towards the front and the mount looks pretty original to me. (Yes, it was missing the loom for the ignition wires.)

Dick... If you have other shots of those DLs (one's that may be able to tell you if they are early or late production examples) you MAY start to see a front or back horn location correlation...IF there is one.

Looks like Curti steered you straight!