R.White

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R.White last won the day on August 4 2015

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About R.White

  • Rank
    '26 Touring
  • Birthday 11/14/1954

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Derby, England.

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  • Biography
    I own a 1926 DB special touring, and a 1930 Austin 7 Swallow saloon Seeking a pre 1905 veteran car to restore.

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  1. Do your valve lifters have a flat contact surface or is there a radius? A flat surface has the effect of opening the valve fully for longer. The longer the inlet is open the more mixture that can be drawn in. The later the exhaust opens the more time there is for the combustion to work. ( Like in a good pub; the more one can imbibe the better! ) One of the tweaks that Austin Seven owners have resorted to in an attempt to improve performance is flattening the radius of the valve lifters. A further improvement can be made if slightly stronger valve springs are fitted. It is all marginal but something is often better than nothing. Ray.
  2. I have kept all my late Dad's box spanners for precisely this sort of problem. It is surprising how often the old stuff comes in handy! Ray.
  3. You can never take anything for granted. I wonder what other marvels you will discover before this car is finished?🤠 Ray.
  4. Mick. In the USA the term for a gudgeon pin is a wrist pin. Regards your c/r. I would be reluctant to exceed 5 : 1 for fear of knocking. Ray.
  5. Here the pin has worn a groove into the keeper preventing the valve from rotating on it's seat which I believe is what it should do.
  6. I recently replaced the valves and guides in my 1926 Dodge 4 engine. They have a similar valve stem arrangement but instead of slots they have holes in which short round pegs can be fitted using a pair of needle nosed pliers. I have never much liked split collets and find them a bit fiddly. Ray.
  7. I have often needed to resort to aluminium casting repairs and have found Lumiweld low temperature welding rods to be useful. Perhaps there is a use for the low temperature repair method on your engine? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lumiweld-10-Rod-Kit-Low-Temp-Aluminuim-Repair/251790178535?hash=item3a9fdd38e7:g:M5kAAMXQNbxRe6gm Ray.
  8. Mike. I am sorry to hear your health is so bad. I do worry when I hear people say they do their own two pack paint at home without the proper equipment. I will only ever use cellulose for DIY and then always wear a decent mask. As to the London to Brighton run; I have dreamed of doing this challenge since I was a kid but the prices just keep going up and up. I never seem to catch up enough to afford one. I thought I would stand a chance when I sold my Dodge Brothers tourer but it only made £11,000 (H & H classic car auction). I have some savings but then I have the withering criticism her in doors to consider. Please let me know what you decide to do. PM me if you want. Re the plating kits. The "wands" that are supplied are simply plastic handled anodes covered in a small piece of foam rubber as shown in my photo. When the electric charge is on you soak the wand in the solution and wipe over the metal surface. Constant rubbing action causes the foam rubber to disintegrate so I have taken to making my own wands. Mr Gateros was very helpful and on hand with any problems. It was he who suggested I make my own wands. My only reservation with doing DIY plating is that it doesn't seem to keep it's shine for years on end like a professional job - but then you only get what you pay for I suppose. Ray.
  9. There seems to be a patch in each of the four corners of the rad.? I would hope a restorer could effect a repair that obviates the need for them. I think It would certainly improve the look if the radiator was tidied up; indeed, I notice that the core appears not to be square with the surround. However, I appreciate that not everyone thinks the same as me and that to some the car is merely showing signs of it's age. I think you are to be commended for returning the car to how it might have presented originally. Ray.
  10. https://www.gaterosplating.co.uk/plating-kits Mike. Here is a link to the electro plating kit suppliers. I have only had success with small items using a brush kit. When I attempted to do my radiator shell I found that when I took a break for lunch and returned to the work, there was a definite "line" where I had restarted. I eventually handed it over to Derby Plating who did a fine job. With regard to the radiator neck, I made sure that the underside was cleaned back to brass so the solder would take. I then tinned both surfaces before final assembly. I don't know if other plating kits are any better than the one I used. The only criticism I would make is that is that the wands are not really up to doing a lot of parts and I ended up making my own. I am sure you will be easily able to adapt the equipment to suit your needs. (BTW are you doing Brighton this year? If you need a passenger let me know. Cheers. Ray.)
  11. Hello Mike. I have been following with interest. When I replaced the neck of my radiator I used microfibre cloths soaked in water to protect the solder that I feared could melt and give me even more problems. I think you are wise not to attempt removal of the shell. I think this is a specialist job. Personally, I would pay to get the shell repaired professionally; an expensive item in any restoration but worth every penny to get it looking it's best. Ray.
  12. Perhaps this will help. Mike's area is not affected ....yet! https://www.woodlandtrust.org.uk/visiting-woods/tree-diseases-and-pests/key-threats/sweet-chestnut-blight/
  13. Same thing happened to me! I suggested that there might be serious amounts of lead in the exhaust pipe build up. Ray.
  14. Hi Spinnyhill. I know how you appreciate an intellectual approach - so these articles, I imagine, are right up your street. As it happens, the MG fraternity in the U.K. are, in my opinion, some of the most technically proficient practitioners in our hobby.🤓 Ray.
  15. 'A vast amount of research has been carried out on all aspects of petrol by a chap called Paul Ireland here in England. I recommend you sign up to the free on line magazine 'Totally Type 2' which although MG oriented has much of general interest. I can't reproduce the superbly researched and illustrated articles here as it is copyright but from issue 2 October 2010 onwards, Paul and his team at Manchester University discover some remarkable facts about petrol. Admittedly, the engine they use for experiments is the MG XPAG unit as found in the 'T' types which is relatively modern in comparison but the information is mostly relevant. Ray.